Tom17
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Posts posted by Tom17
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Not keen on galvinising as if I was going to pay £600 to have that done I'd sooner just buy a new one for 1200 from Richards chassis I'm after something I can paint on by hand in the state it's in I don't want to take the engine out etc
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Currently doing a bit of a rebuild on my landrover it's currently a rolling chassis with engine and bulkhead/ dash board fitted etc
I had the chassis sand blasted and a friend of mine is currently doing a few hours here and there welding some parts that needed attention I'm hoping it will be complete in the next week or two depending and how much time he has free to help
I'm just wondering what people find the best to now paint on after this kind if thing has been done?
I've read paints like hanmerite are no good as they crack and allow moisture in underneath
Any suggestions on what to use also where I can get them and rough costs if people know that would be great
Thanks
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All bar the rear tub that I've just read up that we need! I assume these are quite hard to come by?
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He can get the parts for next to nothing he thinks and the landrover was bought and restored very cheaply so again doesn't owe him much!
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Hi guys
A question for my dad really
He currently has a 110 hi cap pick up and really wants a double cab so he was going to sell and buy one but some local guy whose into butchering landrovers had a double cab pick up and has turned it into a single can pick up tray back sort of thing but has the roof and rear windows!
My question is could my dad buy a 90 rear tub and fit the roof and windows to his 110 chassis?
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Right as per everything seems to be breaking on the 90 and now I've just found the brake lights aren't working along with the front indicators
Is this the same fuse
Providing all fuses are ok what else could this be I've checked fuses but it's dark outside and I can't see very well with my phone light so will do it properly tomorrow any common places for brakes to short or break and any connection to indicators seems odd they all off together all at once? Please any help would be great! Thanks
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Hi I had this trouble.
Remove the cover in the middle of the cab under the seat and look for where the linkages go to. The cover had 6 bolts on top of it and it about the length and width of a hand remove these the tighten the grub screw back onto the shaft that's what my problem was yours could be the same!
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Hi all tried to change my uj's on my props did the front but the back I got the wrong uj's because I'm dopey and now I just can't be bothered so I'm just going to buy a new prop! My landy is a 90" 1984 but has a 200tdi in with an lt77 box what prop will I need does anybody know? Tbh I'm loving how much fuel I'm saving but need to be ready for the ice! Any help would be great!
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And what should I swap it with?
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swap the start relay behind fuse box metal panel with one of the other relays, they are all the same rating & pin layout.
How do I get behind the metal panel?
How do I get behind the metal panel?
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Strange-ish two starters are not working, I'd be inclined to attach a cable to battery positive and touch the other end on the solenoid terminal to see if that works - if not then looks like duff starter
Just did and the starter lifter and spun like it wanted to start so I don't think it's the starter I'm so confused
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I have the other starter that was off the car next to me now and I have put the jump leads to that and it went mad so and fired into action
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Okay will put the earth from battery to engine block and see what happens
Okay I have just put jump lead from earth to engine block and still nothing! What next?
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..but before you start getting involved in all that, check your earth first!
Okay will put the earth from battery to engine block and see what happens
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Great and will I be able to pick one of these up at a parts shop that day would you think?
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That sounds correct. With the starter you have removed, have you tried it directly off the battery? That is initially put a negative onto the case and put a large positive onto the stud) I use jump cables normally! Then jump from the stud to the little tag - see if that has any effect. If that just clicks, then it's probably a dirty heavy current contact.
To prove it's the solenoid (that's what the tag is connected to), look around the area of the stud, there should be a second one in the same vicinity. Whilst holding the starter motor (or certainly make sure it cannot twist) with the negative still attached to the starter motor case, carefully apply the heavy positive to the other stud. That should turn the motor (there is a lot of torque there so be prepared for it). If that works, it's your solenoid (or an earthing issue).
Cheers
Peter
Will try this tomorrow morning and get back on here with the results! If it proves to be a solenoid what solenoid would this be and where is it located?
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Also when removing the old starter I got slightly confused with the wiring it's currently got the fat live from the battery on a stud alone with two other ring crimped red or dark cables and a striped one that was from the same loom on a little tab crimp thingy next to the stud is this correct? I'm pretty sure that's the way it came off but I'm starting to doubt myself now!
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I've been away for a week and come home to my defender 90 200tdi today and the thing won't start it is giving a clicking sound from the engine bay almost like a flat battery would (don't worry I've swapped batteries over with dad's defender and battery isn't the issue) I've then smacked the **** out of the starter motor to see if that was stuck but no luck. I then swapped the starter (tiddle take of a job) with one from the old 200tdi that came out when I got the car but this didn't work either but again that could too be stuck so it's currently sat on my drive way in a sorry state and I'm confused as to what it may be I really want to avoid taking it to a garage but feel I may have to with this one! Any help would be great! Thanks!
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I would use MTF94 or similar in the gearbox. The ATF was what Rover specified, but they did that before MTFs were available.
There is no need for GL4 for the transfer case. Any quality gear oil is fine. If you live somewhere that gets cold a 75W90 is a good idea.
Gearbox is 2.2 liters. Transfer box is 2.8 liters. About 5 liters for both axles and swivels.
So I could put the mtf95 in my transfer box?
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Also what amounts will I need to buy I've been told the box takes 2.3l unsure on the diffs how much they need and the trans too
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As Mo implies it will depend on the age of vehicle and what gearbox is fitted etc. Have a look in the manual - it's all detailed in there.
As a basic guide.
- LT77 gearbox - ATF Dexron III
- R380 gearbox - MTF 94
- LT230 transfer box - EP90 GL4
- Front/rear differentials - EP90
- Swivel housings - EP90 (up to 200Tdi)/one-shot grease (300Tdi on)
Thanks for your help I have an lt77 box not sure how to identify what transfere box I have! Any help with that would be great my car is a 1984 defender originally a 2.5 na diesel and is now a 200tdi
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Hi all! Say it every time but I'm not a mechanic and I'm just learning sort of thing but can anyone help with what oils I need for what
Going to do both axles today then possible gear box tomorrow
Any hell would be great cheers
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Its sort of under here.Note - As it is the absolutely most common method of disabling a TDI and thus known about by every tea leaf on the planet I would try something different ..
Still going to do it as am extra method of deterrent! May look into the gear stick lock also from x eng
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Still struggling to find the live into the fuel pump could anybody point me in the right direction I've looked only from above but can't find a thing!!
And yes Paul will keep that in mind good thinking!
Also going to look into those concreted in dropping bollards
Price to have hub seals changed
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi all
Put my 90 in to a sort of back street landrover specialist today to have hub seals changed on both axles.
Forgot to ask them how much it would be and I'm assuming they will only take cash so does anybody have a rough estimate as to what this will cost?