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Tom17

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Posts posted by Tom17

  1. Just remove the 6 bolts and lift the selector housing Off the t-case, there's no witch craft hiding behind it!

    From memory there are a few different types of selectors that each fail in their own ways, on one type the weld breaks on another I seem to remember there's a grub screw that comes loose, both faults give the symptoms you describe.

    Edit) Steve beat me to it.

    Cheers guys so can somebody go through this step by step? I'm going to be attempting this on my lunch hour tomorrow in work is that enough time?

  2. Hi all let my mate have a go of my 90 and he managed to **** up the low range selection

    I have removed the covers and chased back the linkages and it leads to this block I've taken a pic of I think this could be the problem

    I know how it used to feel and it now feels loose and limp what component needs to be changed and could I do it on my drive? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Tom

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  3. The Llangollen area is only an hour away and there's some amazing lanes around there. Definitely a good site in WIgan. You can see the details on YouTube for that. Loads of good clubs in the Northwest as well.

    If your struggling and want to go out with a group, me and my mates are often out i that area or within a 3 hour drive of it.

    Yeah new to 4x4s completely and have no mates who do it they all into there low fast hatch backs so a bit lost to be honest! Where abouts do you normally go in Llangollen as I'm quite good with this area

  4. I wouldn't bother wit it tbh Not a fan of those simply because its another point for resistance when winching.

    Surley a decent HD cutout switch or seperate second ignition switch would be just as good,

    a tdi can be bump started and run for some time on a rc car battery.

    Thanks for the quick reply! I haven't actually got a winch so the extra point of resistance is not an issue! I just liked the simplicity of this and the way it's hidden so your standard none landrover owner thief would have a job finding it

  5. my handbrake hasnt worked in ages and ages. i fix it every MOT and it seems to last a week if that, i could sort it, but i am normally too busy, i just live without it most of the time :) i know its not useful info, but if you cant afford to buy an x brake the engine will hold it no problem. its just sometimes a little annoying when opening gates as you have to shut it off.

    Yeah think that's going to have to be the option for the time being until I can afford the x brake! Anybody know how hard they are to fit?

  6. Hi all

    Anybody had any experience with this or similar

    Just ordered it only to give an extra bit of security against theft

    I know it's a bit of a pain taking the seat up every night but id rather do that and avoid it getting robbed! Already got a steering lock any other methods you all use?

    I also fold the seat in such a way that you can't sit on it and its a nightmare to get it back the way I do it unless you know how it's been done

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  7. Low pressure hose through Radiator. It's worth rigging up the hose so it can spray on the rad for half an hour or more as it's difficult to get the mud out of the middle of the cores.

    If that fails, remove the rad and leave it sitting in a bath of water over night - then run water through the fins. It's amazing how much mud falls out!

    For the Handbrake, the only real solution is to remove the drum and wash out the internals. It's worth dismantling the expander mechanism, cleaning and re-assembling with a load of really sticky waterproof grease (stern tube grease fro example). It also might be worth drilling a couple of big holes in the outside of the drum while it's off. These allow mud to be centrifuged out while it's running and give you somewhere to poke a hose pipe in without having to dismantle.

    If you have rear drum brakes in the wheels - it's worth doing the same on these. On mine, I made the holes line up with the gaps in my rims - so I could easily get the hose inside without removing a wheel.

    Si

    Right will have to try get under it tonight! How big of a job is it to dismantle the drum etc?

    Also I've seen on a couple of off readers they have like covers on the grill that clip on and off? Just for use while off roading what are these called

  8. Hi all went off roading at hill and ditch quarry the other day was really good! Although I'm now paying the price my car is overheating due to mud being clogged up in the radiator an intercooler and my handbrake is sticking on? Can anybody advise me what to do about both? And how I can prevent this happening again? Are there any guards or covers i can get?

    Thanks

    Tom

    Also some pics

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  9. You'll have had transmission wind up.

    In order to drive in a circle all your wheels will have needed to turn at different speeds - which is what your 3 differentials do. Diff lock locks the centre one.

    On loose ground, with the centre diff locked, the wheels can slip or skip so you don't get wind up - whereas on Tarmac it can't.

    So as you turned it will have wound up - built up tension as it needs to turn at a different speed. The bang is it releasing. It's not a good noise.

    What retro suggested is good - read the manual, it covers quite a bit of stuff.

    Cheers!

  10. Or jack up a rear wheel with the handbrake off (chock the other wheels) and with the main gearbox out of gear. If you can turn it the difflock is off, if not then it is on.

    The answers to most of your questions are in the owners manual, along with best practice guidance etc.

    Cheers everyone will try bulbs tomorrow then if not will go to find some gravel! Can anyone explain the loud bang today?

  11. difflock can be engaged anytime it's needed in high or low range & in any gear in the main gearbox.

    changing the transfer box from high range to low range really needs the vehicle stationary, changing from low to high can be done on the move smoothly with practice & clutch use.

    Yeah I put it on stationary then began to move! Just wanted to see if it worked or not as I slipped on a hill on loose ground the other week and only had it in low range as didn't know how to engage lock! How can I tell if my diff lock is on or not if my dash light doesn't work? As I haven't noticed it on but to be fair I haven't looked

  12. I have a 1990 Defender 110.

    You can engage difflock at low speed, but stationary is best. Just clutch and either use High or Low with difflock. When it is in the light should come on.

    To disengage is the reverse of the process. Stop, then move to either high or low "difflock off". I do find that occasionally I have to reverse a short distance before the light goes out as the gears can "wind up" together and wont always release.

    Cheers

    Peter

    Thanks for the quick reply! When it is in lock side and gear 1 is doesn't move? Does this need freeing up? Unsure about the light I didn't look will check again soon and what about the bang noise is this normal when full lock turning with diff lock engaged

  13. fit it where you like, most people put it by the back door, it will need a fused live from somewhere positive/battery, via a relay, you then need a fused switch supply to the relay.

    Or if you are only using a low power bulb and its one with a built in switch then you just need a fused supply from the battery, you can earth back through the body

    Mike

    Thanks mike

    Would I get everything I need from halfords or similar? Where is best place to get the 12v from directly from battery or?

  14. Hi all!

    New to 4x4 all together this is my first defender and haven't a clue how to engage diff lock!

    I tryed it in a car park at 5mph full locked and the bang from the drive train was unreal loud!

    Is this broken? Should this happen? It drives okay now but the noise was so loud has it caused damage?

    Thanks

    Also how do you engage step by step and ill see if I have done that!

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