mickeyw
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Posts posted by mickeyw
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Footwell and bulkhead repairs -these are the exact jobs I used to justify the purchase of my first plasma cutter. Definitely a worthwhile purchase for this purpose.
Note that if you choose a model that has pilot arc it won't matter how rusty the material you're cutting out is.
R Tech sometimes have "shop soiled" units they punt out at a reduced price 😉
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I've never had any luck keeping brass exhaust nuts tight, even with a locking nut behind the. These days I use stainless exhaust studs and BZP plain nuts with a spring washer.
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On 3/5/2024 at 9:58 PM, steve200TDi said:
We are talking about this style of bandsaw:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbs45md-41-2in-x-6in-metal-cutting-ban/
A lot of people have got this style of bandsaw that cuts in the horizontal and vertical positions and so is very handy for all sorts of cutting. There have been a lot of 'improvement' articles on the web, one of which I can't seem to find! I seem to recall @Anderzander asking me to let him know when I find it again, but I never have!
Last week this popped up on YouTube and thought it was worth sharing!
So I thought people could add to this thread with any tips they have, or any useful articles they have found.
Steve
I watched that video last week, just don't have a bandsaw. All very well thought out mods, especially with the table being a fast and tool-less fitment.
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On 3/6/2024 at 6:03 AM, Snagger said:
There weren’t any face level vents. Are you fitting a Puma dash?
Or the early type air con dash? They have face level (ish) vents.
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Well I thought that was the best written piece of journalism I've read in quite a while. Grammar and spelling both passed (exceedingly rare these days) while being a moderately amusing read.
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To update on my own situation, I ended up buying the proper stuff from IWT, although I did have to wait the best part of 6 months for it. This worked out not much different in price to buying Buffalo board or similar, with the bonus of not having to cut the boards except where they fit around the centre and rear corner posts. A 14' deck requires 3 full boards and a half board.
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21 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
But surprising that a chain is being used for this, in my experience a chain is to be used for lifting only, chains do not like any shock loading, this is exactly what happens when tyres find grip and then slip again, the winch takes up the slack sometimes rapidly and shocks the chain/rope back into tension
Certainly in heavy industry we would never use a chain for pulling
Regards Stephen
A chain comes in handy on numerous occasions. When winching vehicles there aren't generally any shock loads, and I would never advocate towing a vehicle with a chain. I will use the chain around a sharp edged bumper of a stuck truck in preference to slicing up one of my tree straps (play days are number one place to find trucks with no decent recovery points) and hook the winch to this . It can also be useful for connecting the rear tow point to a tree strap if I need to use a tree to anchor myself when extracting another truck from a hole. Also very good for putting around tree trunks when moving fallen timber in our woods; webbing and rope doesn't take kindly to being dragged along the ground.
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17 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
What are you meaning by a shortening chain @mickeyw? Not familiar with the name!
One of these Ross. AKA adjustable winching chain. A chain with a hook that will engage around any of the links to enable the loop to be shortened.
https://goodwinch.com/product/adjustable-winching-chain-4-5m/
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Most of my off roading these days is as a marshal at our local pay'n'play days. The land is a mix of woodland and open fields.
On the front of my 110 is a Goldfish TDS9.5 with 11mm Bowrope and decent sized yellow hook that fits securely around the neck of a standard 50mm tow ball.
I've bought all sorts of recovery kit over the years, but the stuff that lives in the truck are 2x swingaway snatch blocks, a shortening chain, 3x flat webbing tree strops, 3x soft lifting slings, numerous rated steel shackles in LR & Suzuki sizes, a spare/extension synthetic winch rope and a 24mm Nylon recovery rope. That tends to cover most situations I encounter. I have a KERR, but it sees little use as we don't allow them at our play days as there are too many trucks with unsuitable attachment points. I have a Hi-lift but haven't used it in years so that stays at home, along with the waffle boards.
I'm yet to be convinced about soft shackles as when I've used other folks ones they have always been a PITFA to get undone, especially having been dragged through sloppy mud. -
On 1/25/2024 at 6:43 AM, miketomcat said:
Over the years I've fished a Makita 6" battery skill saw (duff brushes), a 240v Fein saw (supplied parts to fix mine) and a Makita battery angle grinder (couldn't find anything wrong) out of the metal skip. So Stephen your not alone.
Mike
Sounds like you're a fully qualified Womble Mike 😁
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I've have one that looks like the Wurth item but has no names on it at all. I've had it for years and years, got it from my local motor factor for about £25. It still works fine, but is predisposed to falling over ALL THE EFFING TIME, which is entirely down to it's design.
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I rinse my rope in a big tub of water and agitate it thoroughly, tip the muddy water out and refill and agitate again. I'll do this 3 or 4 times then refill and leave it to soak for several days before giving it a stir, rinse and refill again. It's amazing how just leaving it like this continues to draw more dirt out. Once the water stays fairly clean I hang the rope on the washing line to drip mostly dry before respooling onto the drum.
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On 11/24/2023 at 11:00 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
, and at most they've made a new moulding for the mounting.
And that will be where the bulk of the cost is. That's a big moulding from an expensive tool (even if made in China) that would need quite a lot of sales to recoup the cost.
It does look like a tidy installation though. -
28 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
It will be interesting to see what happens now the L200 isn't available any longer.
They seem to have partnered up with Ford now and use the Ranger on the beaches.
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I think a lot of rescue organisations do tend to hang onto vehicles for longer than many users, possibly because they are quite customised units, and/or maybe they don't rack up the miles that quickly. I know my local St John's Ambulance branch still has a 1989 V8 110 on the fleet, and it was only 10 years or so since I used to see a Gatwick airport fire service 200 Tdi Discovery our local Tesco.
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This came up in my news feed today. The Grenadier is being embraced by our emergency services.
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On 11/4/2023 at 12:50 PM, simonr said:
I'm going to buck the trend on the compressor - and suggest you get one of the small Hydrovane ones.
I have one of these: https://www.directair.co.uk/air-compressors/hv02/
Mine came from www.airindustries.co.uk who did me a very good deal on a reconditioned one, that looked brand new.
While it's only 8 cfm with a 50l tank, it keeps up much better than my previous 15cfm piston compressor with a 100l tank.
I think one of the issues with piston compressors, unless you have a huge tank, is that the air pressure pulsates with each piston stroke. This is noticeable while spraying - and can be quite bad with a Plasma Cutter. The flow out of the Hydrovane is continuous - and seems able to deliver more (useable) air than it ought to.
My plasma says it needs 10cfm - but the compressor only runs with a 50% duty cycle.
The biggest advantage (if you have neighbours) is it's very quiet! They're also low maintenance.
I use a PCL dropout air filter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162888498284 While these seem expensive - they are VERY good! Perfect for spraying or Plasma.
+1 for a Hydrovane. I have an HV01, (half the output of Si's HV02) which works fine for plasma cutting and can just about manage my small blast cabinet as long as I don't run for too long.
When I bought my HV01 my garage was beneath my infant daughter's bedroom, which meant angle grinding or running a piston compressor wasn't going to happen. With a Hydrovane I could cut metal up at night quietly, just needed to garage door open to let the fumes out.-
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3 hours ago, jeremy996 said:
I replied on X/Twitter, suggesting that Sir Jim had run off with his significant other. He is a well know auto journalist, currently editing EVO.
Evo's usual coverage is supercars and fast saloons; I cannot think of anything more NOT a supercar or fast saloon than a Grenadier. To expect it to drive the same way is delusional. To dislike it is fine, we don't all like the same things, but to claim it is dangerous suggests someone in need of a reality adjustment.
I don't buy Evo, I find it dull and too niche for me.
I've never read Evo but I guess it must have gone downhill since Mr Metcalfe's days. I can't imagine him writing such twoddle.
Having driven one of Sir Jim's products I was very impressed. It's a much more relaxing and comfortable experience than my aged 110.
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22 hours ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
Newbury 4x4 Land Rover autojumble
Always good - well was ….
This year loads of trade stands selling stuff don’t really need and less proper stands selling stuff owners want gone 😂And more tractor / vintage / car boot stands making the LR part way smaller prices also were up for buyers and sellers 🤔
Bumped into quite a few who feel same way …..🫤
Bought a few bits and bobs but really could have saved myself the trip and time …..
Anyone else go ? …..
have LRM wounded this event for the future from what is was ? 🙁
I haven't been for a few years now. I'm not building anything LR at the moment, so the need to acquire stuff is not there, plus there's always something else that takes priority happening the same day.
I do feel that based on history, any magazine getting involved is rarely beneficial for such events.
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....And positively fugly from others.
Some interesting and potentially useful features if they actually work. But it's a tonne heavier than a L405 Range Rover
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9 minutes ago, JeffR said:
Summer in Northumberland can be very interesting, soooooo many LBB's (Little biting bar stewards), really ne something that is hermetically sealed to prevent exsanguination. Useful to know it can put up with high winds too.
Cheers Mickey
Jeff I don't know if you have come across 'Smidge' LBB repellent? Apparently it's one of the few products that work on the Scottish variety, which they claim have much bigger teeth. It's been very effective for us down south too. You can buy it on that jungle website.
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I have one of the Clarke garage tents. It's definitely been very worthwhile and worth the money. I'd have preferred a decent garage sized shed, but aside from the substantial cost and time saving (erected by myself over 1 weekend while juggling obstacles that were already on the same patch of ground), I'd never have got permission for a garage 4" from my boundary, and in front of the building line.
I opted for the slightly taller version, my RRC passes under the rolled up door comfortably and has resided in there now for a couple of years. I expect a 110 could be eased under there with a little care if you lift the canvas up a bit. One issue is ventilation, I get a lot of condensation in there in the winter, and it gets mega hot in the summer. In the USA they sell similar 'tents' with solar powered vent fans that fix into the end panels. I've been considering just adding a of louvred grille into each end.
The frame is a robust bolt-together tube construction that is chem-fixed to the existing concrete. The whole thing has stood up well to a couple of hurricanes so far.
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Thanks for the input everyone.
On 8/4/2023 at 4:31 PM, pete3000 said:https://www.toadalarm.com/product/sterling-touch-immobiliser/
They used to be defacto standard, not sure how they rate these days, but should fit the bill. i.e cat 2 approved, free mobile fitting in uk. The only thing not mentioned is price
I've found a number of places that sell the Sterling systems. What I don't like about them is the need to touch or wave the transponder in the required area before each engine start. I've driven cars like this before, and in off roading situation this is a royal PITA as engine stops and starts are frequent.
On 8/4/2023 at 8:56 PM, smallfry said:Are you confident with your present arrangements that it would be difficult to drive away, it the vehicle is not at home ?
I'd never be that confident; we can always add more layers but I believe my methods are already more effective that what the insurers are requesting. However adding another layer is no bad thing, but I'd prefer an one that doesn't overly hinder everyday use.
On 8/4/2023 at 9:27 PM, jeremy996 said:Who is your present insurer? What they are asking for is dumb and they are effectively refusing to cover you for theft, even if your LR was taken on a beavertail, where an immobilser would be useless anyway.
Although a Toad alarm/immobiliser would probably fit the bill, an alternative insurer would probably be cheaper and more amenable. IMHO a tracker would be more use, so ask for a Heritage quote, (if they still have their tracker deal).
Would a classic policy fit the bill? My Morgan is agreed value, unlimited mileage and business use.
My 110 is 'mildly modified' (bigger engine, bigger wheels, winch, Megajolt), which counts out a number of insurers, but is annoyingly not sufficiently modified for other companies that specialise in modified vehicles.
I 'm currently with Greenlight (a broker), who I think someone on here recommended, and they've been easy to deal with and very accommodating to my needs, but now their underwriters have updated their requirements. For the prior 20+ years I've been with NFU, but last year they doubled the renewal price and weren't able to explain their reasons satisfactorily.
I'm already on a 3k miles/year limit, don't need commercial use, just me and SWMBO covered. Heritage were mega expensive when I looked last year. Classic policies don't seem to cater well for modified trucks and don't tend to offer green-laning cover, despite a lane being a public highway 🤷♂️On 8/5/2023 at 9:34 AM, simonr said:I had the same issue, years ago, on my 90 with Megasquirt. The insurance asked for a Cat [something] alarm & immobiliser.
My solution was to add a pair of wires (nicely) into the loom which immobilised via Megasquirt. I took it to RoadRadio as it happens - and showed them the wires which were to be used to disable the ECU. They were happy enough to connect to them (and wrap it all in nasty insulating tape). The Insurance were happy - and I was happy once the Insulating tape had magically transformed int self-amalgamating tape.
Thanks Simon, this is probably the most sensible and practical approach. RR seem to just offer systems for modern cars now, so looking at products for the classic car world. Many of the popular systems from the 80's and 90's are NLA.
On 8/5/2023 at 2:59 PM, Snagger said:I had a Microscan immobiliser that used a key ring fob and an induction loop around the ignition key barrel to control micro relays between the ign switch and the starter relay and the ign switch and fuel pump solenoid (or ign coil on a petrol). Simple and effective, Thatcham approved and, sadly, easily bypassed by anyone who knows these older vehicles. Such immobilisers on old vehicles are only any use for insurance purposes, not for defeating thieves. To stop the vehicle disappearing, you need things like hidden fuel solenoids, sturdy control locks or other more “inventive” schemes.
Agree with all of this Nick.
A system with a loop that recognises a chip on or close to the key all the time it's close is preferable in function. It is after all how most later vehicles are. -
This topic affects a broad range of older vehicles that weren't built with much electrickery, hence my decision to post in the International forum.
My 1986 110's insurance renewal just arrived, and in reading the endorsements small print I spotted the following:
"Immobiliser must be fitted for Theft cover to apply. We will not provide any cover under Section 2 of the policy (ie. any claim for loss or damage by Theft or attempted Theft of the Insured Car) unless we have proof that: it is fitted with an Insurance approved immobiliser or immobiliser alarm fitted by the manufacturers or insurance approved installer and the immobiliser or immobiliser alarm is on and working whenever the Insured Car is left."Now when I took out this policy a year ago I told them I had no immobiliser fitted, at least not the type they require here, and they were happy with that. Now things have changed. I have other home brew implementations to slow down would-be thieves but they don't count and neither does having Lucas electrics . IMO the type of system they are requesting (Thatcham 2) would be pretty easy to bypass on most classic cars and therefore wouldn't provide me with much reassurance.
So in the interest of box-ticking I thought I should try and find a solution. Can anyone suggest a system and/or installer, yes this has to be fitted by an approved installer and a "certificate" provided, in the South-East of an immobiliser suitable for classic cars that are blessed with not having CANBUS systems and other complexities?
If I was an installer and was asked to fit a system to an old and non-standard car such as my 110 with V8 with 14CUX and Megajolt I would likely be very unenthusiastic. Of course as the owner I would be perfectly confident in carrying out such an installation, but that isn't good enough for the insurer. I don't fancy going to somewhere like Road Radio as they would throw a bag of those hateful Scotchlocks at it, and we know what happens with those after a while 🙄. Ideally I need someone that would work with me guiding them through the truck's systems, big ask perhaps.
I could look round for other insurers, but I expect most will be wanting similar provisions from the owner.
Anyone care to offer helpful insights?
Pump My Ride - Ninety on air
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
We must have met too if you were on that trip Andy. That's the V8 90 I was driving at the time in the foreground.