Tom.H

Ok Nothing on my vehicle seems to be simple or easy. I dont seem to have the standard mounts on my Discovery 1 chassis …. The ones which would hold the bracket below (From a Dico damper relocation kit) onto the chassis: I only have them on the driver side of the chassis. I dont know whether theyve grinded of by the previous owner. Does anyone know if I can buy replacement mounts/brackets …. Which I can get someone to weld on. I know I could probably buy the equivalent tube and cut it down. Although if its available as a spare it would probably work out cheaper and easier. If anyone doesnt have a clue what Mounts I am talking about …. Heres a picture on the ones on the drivers side of the chassis:

In my defence to being an idiot That was a mistake Was meant to be ‘Hope you had a good event’

Just reading that made me feel knackered Good luck to team Challenger .... Hope you have a good event!

Ok Cheers for your help … The vehicle was built by Whitbread off road ….. It was drivable at the time I brought it, although it required a few jobs just to finish it of. I’ve spent the summer doing a few of these jobs (Although I still haven’t finished all of them). I Don’t know whether this will affect both the IVA and insurance.

Ok ..... I am back I’ve changed my mind after coming to sense and realising that a 404 Mog isn’t a realistic tow car. I am planning on getting my land rover through an IVA within the next 6 months. I’ve only made this decision after finding out that there’s little chance of me being insured as a registered drive on the Mog (I was sceptical, even before phoning the insurance companies). Even though I am yet to read through the IVA regulations in detail I can already see some issues arising. Before I start looking into the test any further I have a question about insures after the vehicle has passed its IVA. I am already confused whether my vehicle would need a Q plate or not. It’s had some sort of modification in every criteria …. Meaning its points exceeded 8 (I believe) I am currently 16 and I will have only just have got my driving licence after the vehicle has ‘hopefully’ passed its IVA. With it now being impossible to become a named drive under the age of 19 Insurance Is constantly an issue for me. I know It’s possible for a 17 year old to be a registered driver of a standard 200tdi land rover …. At the cost of around £800 (which is just about bearable). What will be the affect on insurance with a Q plate vehicle be???? Will I instantly be dismissed as insurance companies immediately think of the link between Q plates is kit cars?? Cheers Tom

Thanks for your help *The Front Panel is Aluminum

Hi guys As topics go .... this is quite a perfect one I've got a defender front panel that needs to be narrowed by 8" I don't have the facilities to do a good job at cutting, re welding and painting the panel I am in the South east of England (Surrey, Guilford) and just wondered if you know of any body work companies that could help me out Cheers Tom

Ok Thanks for all your help I am not even sure when the vehicle was built but I am doubtful it was before 1999 I am intending on using the vechicle for winch challenges and safari events and as a result its quite possible it might not get back from the event under it own power. As a result the 404 Unimog which I was trying to sell is now coming across as being quite an appealing tow car Tom

Hi My vehicle is made up of two front discovery chassis .... After doing some research I am aware that this means the vehicle should go through an SVA Although with the standard road documents for the front half of the disco I don't see what's stopping me from going to a 'lenient' m.o.t station and trying to get it to pass. I've recently contacted my insurance company and told them ever modification the vehicle has. They said they were able to insure the vehicle with an normal m.o.t. They never suggested it need an SVA for them to insure it. As a result I am kind of left asking: What are the consequence of driving a vehicle which should have an SVA on the road with a normal MOT??? Tom

Thanks for your help I've actually come across a kit made my Sumo http://www.sumobars.co.uk/ Looks pretty good in my opinion.

Hi I've got a Discovery 1 which currently has no steering damper ... before I just buy a damper I thought it might be worth buying a Relocation Kit, as I indeed on using the vechicle in challenge events I am aware that there are a few Relocation Kits available and just wondered if anyone could recommend one. I'd prefer it to be bolt on as I don't have welding facilities. Cheers Tom

Hi Ok ... I've received the window kit and got all the piece of glass made. I am aware that the front window basically sits in the frame and is glued in as well as being clamped down. I am I right in thinking that everyone uses silicone as the 'glue'? Also is there any type of silicon which is better suited for the job (instead of all purpose stuff)? I am only asking because I've been able to get my hands on a Standard series 3 window which seems to have Black sealant in it (which never seemed to set meaning it stays sticky?). Tom

A bit of novice input I’d be very interested in an event like this. A quote from the XTC topic on AWDC forum ‘There are plenty of Bowler/Tomcat type vehicles out there to which a winch could easily be fitted and it may encourage some of those vehicles to venture out again’. I can vaguely forward this quote with my vehicle. Although I didn’t actually own it when it was being built It was originally made to be used as a safari vehicle but was never complete. The owner then decided to turn it into a challenge vehicle but its transformation was never really completed. As a result I’ve felt kind of lost in which direction to go in. I don’t have the budget to turn it into either a competitive safari or challenge vehicle. Although with the new XTC event I can now build it for something which I see as being less dependent on the modification of vehicle. I am defiantly looking forward to the XTC in 2010.

Hi Can anyone tell me the length of the unthreaded and threaded area of their standard rear door defender wheel carrier? Cheers Tom

Ok … I've come up with the follow list. If I've forgotten anything or have something which is unnecessary could you please let me know 336451 - WINDOW CHANNEL TOP FRONT DOOR 330202 -DOOR TOP FIXED GLASS SPACER 347488 - WINDOW CHANNEL LOWER 336454- WINDOW CHANNEL DOOR TOP SIDE 330203 - DOOR TOP GLASS SPACER 330660 - SLIDING WINDOW SEAL RUBBER 330661- SEAL RETAINING CHANNEL 330198 - DOOR TOP GLASS RETAINER MTC3180 - DOOR TOP FILLER STRIP AB606031L -SELF TAPPING SCREW NO. 6 X 3/8 AC606041L - SCREW SELF TAPPING NO. 6 X 1/2 Many thanks TOm

Thanks for your help As you might be able to see from the pictures I've currently got no window locks, sliders or seals. I've had a look on paddock4x4 and have found the window locks but I am not exactly sure were to find the sliders or seals. http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Bod...with_thumb.html I just wondered if anyone could help me out. Also is there anything else I need along with these 3 components Cheers Tom

Hi I have a set of lowered/cut down series windows. I am not very familiar with the older land rovers and as a result I am not exactly sure what series they are of (I am thinking series 3). I just wondered if anyone could confirm from my pictures whether I am correct or not? Also, the windows currently have no glass in them. Before I look at getting some plastic windows cut out I just wondered if it is even possible to replace the glass in a normal window (I am struggling to see how it can be done) Thanks Tom

Thanks for your help again It seems that a few of you have had a similar experience to me. I am still convinced that the issue is due to the body having no sound proofing. I am able to sit on the roll cage above the cab, next to the engine and on the front wing bars there basically no issue with vibrating or sound, at all. When I open the door and go inside the cab the noise and vibrating affect is pretty apparent and as all ready said seems to be exaggerated. I feel this is due to the thin ally material flexing and almost acting like a drum. I am hoping that the sound material I use (When I find some) will prevent the body from flexing as well as covering up the sound. As you can see from the pictures there basically one sheet between the engine and me and just a few from the gearbox/transfer box and me (being that theres no longer a battery box) Thanks Tom

Ok I’ve replaced the bushes to Braitpart Poly ones. There was a defiant improvement but it’s become apparent to me that the issue might not just be a result of the engine mounts. Outside the vehicle it doesn’t seem to vibrate any more than a normal defender but when inside the cab its clear that the drumming/vibrating affected is exaggerated. I am guessing this is basically due to the cab having no sound proofing at all and there being just a thin sheet of ally between the engine and me Of course it is quite an ask attempting to make a vehicle which was first designed for safari events comfortable but as I am planning on do challenge event the issue is becoming more and more apparent I just wondered if anyone had any experience of sound proofing their vehicle and whether they could tell me what materials they used. Tom

Ok Thanks for your help As the mounts are quite easy to take off, my plans are to replace the bushes. If this does not prevent the vibration then I plan to look into recreating the standard mounts Tom

Hi everyone I recently brought a rear engine land rover. The previous owner of the vehicle changed the standard engine mounts with captive ones. These captive engine mounts were built around a land rover rear radius arm and from what I know use the standard bushes. The problem I have is that the car vibrates terribly. At first I thought it might have something to do with the frequency of the chassis and engine being the same but the issue occurs at any rpm. I feel I have two options. The first being to look for an extremely soft rear radius arm bushes, if they even exist (does anyone know of any)? The other being to create a new engine mount or even try and re create the stand land rover one. After looking at the amount of actually rubber in a radius arm and comparing it to what’s normally used its clear to see why a vibrating issue might occur. I just wondered if anyone could help me out. Here are a few pictures of one of the mounts (the other one being very similar) Many thanks Tom

Hi everyone A quick question Does anyone have a 37x12.5 maxxis creepy crawler which they could measure the exact diameter of? I know my vehicle can fit a set of 37” creepy crawlers but I am planning on fitting a set of 38.5x11 boggers instead. Although this seems a silly question (we should be talking about a 1.5”) but I’ve never actually seen my vehicle on anything apart from standard range rover tyres and only know from a picture that they will fit 37. Now …. The stab in the dark By any chance does anyone have a 38.5x11 on a land rover rim which I could ‘try before I buy’ in the south Thanks Tom

Very quick question Has anyone recently brought some maxxis mudzillas? I am looking to fit a set to my new land rover but I am struggling to find any suppliers Also I have 24 spline half shafts without diff lockers. Does anyone see me having a problem running 37”s with this axel setup? Thanks Tom

Ok Thanks for everyone’s help. I had thought about just turning the gearbox/transfer box around so the input shaft is facing the rear. I feel that that much the same amount of work is required (as new mounts for the mog box would have to be made). I would also have to modify both the gear leave and reverse leaver. I feel the use of props in the first set-up also allows me a bit of movement to where I can mount the engine and box. I am also having second thoughts about using a P38 engine and box. The th350 seems to be a far stronger box and I feel that I may need this extra strength and reliability if I am to pull such a large vehicle around some pretty sticky situations. Saying this… My final choice will manly be up to what price I can get everything for. *Price of the Fabrication One of the reasons why I made this thread was an attempt to try a work out how much the work I need to will cost me. To get the mounts done I am planning on removing all the body work and current engine before sending it of (so a company can just spend there time looking at the mounts). I am also going to look into designing the mounts before sending it all of so they literally just need to be fabricated them onto the chassis (decreasing paid hours by as much as possible) Saying all of this…. I am still not sure how much it will all cost Tom

Thanks for the Reply…. At first I did plan to use Chevy 350 and a Th350. The reason why I’m no longer look at using one is because there not very easy to come by and as a result there not cheap. I came to the conclusion that I basically need to locate a complete vehicle, as I also need all the ancillaries as well. In my eyes a rover block is very appealing as there very easy to come by and if I have any problems both help and spares are available. With the price of a complete P38 being very low, I feel I should be able locate both a 4.6 V8 (with ancillaries) and ZF4HP22EH box for little more than £1000. A number of people have also questioned how well the rest of standard mog drive train will hold up to a high increase in power (being that it was originally designed with 80bhp in mind). Although I feel reasonably confident I still don’t want to be passing crazy numbers through it (for reliability). The only worry I currently have is whether the auto box/torque convertor will be able to hold up to the weight of the mog (estimated at around 2.6 tons) in an off road/challenge environment. I will have a very wide selection of gears (as I am running two boxes) but I am still not sure whether problems will occur Tom