Tom.H

I am planning on doing a rear engine setup on my Mog… Although it seems pretty extreme I feel that it’s possibly the best/easiest way round fitting a large engine (there’s little hope fitting a powerful engine in the current bay) Due to the setup being quite complex I’ve created a diagram: I have had a long chat with the owner of the Ubermog vehicle in Canada. He ran a similar setup and I am pretty much hoping to copy his layout (although he used a Chevy and Th350 gearbox) AS you can see from the Diagram I am intending on keeping the standard Unimog gearbox/transfer box (as it supports the torque tubes) but I will need mounts for the engine, gearbox (which I hope to pull out of a P38) and the U box (Milner Reverse Ration Transfer Box). As already said, I am aware that roll cage companies do some custom fabrication but I don’t know if there is anyone more specialist, who focuses on engine and gearbox mounts in particular. I haven’t yet started the build so I am still welcome to ideas and criticism. Tom

Hi As some of you may know, I am planning on doing some work on my Mog over the summer. I am somewhat already limited in facilities (being that I currently done even have an area to work on it). Although I feel I can do some of the Fabrication‏ I don’t feel I am up to creating custom engine, gearbox and shock mounts as well as a complete Roll cage. I am aware that there are a few roll cage companies around but haven’t found many companies which focus on completely custom fabrication. I would preferably like to bring the complete vehicle to one company, were all 4 things can be done. Basically I just wondered if anyway knows of any companies which are capable of doing what I need Tom

Ok…. I’ve just got an Email back from Interco saying that all there light truck tyres are not E marked. Although the TSL/SX is Dot approved. As a result of this I decided to look into the E mark rule (as I have come across quite a few vehicles running Interco’s on the road) It seems that there is no MOT rule stating the tyres need to be E marked. And as long as a tyre has enough thread, correct load and speed ratings, are in a satisfactory condition there’s not reason why they can’t be used in the U.K. The only suspiring thing is that you shouldn’t legally be able to buy non E marked tyre in the U.K. Although as I am considering getting mine shipped from the U.S anyway (as it works out cheap) I don’t see this being a problem. I got all this information off another board/forum… So if anyone feels that it is not correct I would be very grateful if you could let me know. Tom

Hi As some of you may know I am planning to turn my 404 mog into a competition vehicle over the next year. I am currently (again) looking into suitable tyres. It’s been a bit of a struggle trying to find a suitable one as I am somewhat limited, as I am running on 20” rims. The tyre I’ve found is the Interco TSL/SX See link: http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=15&g=1 I’ve heard that some of Interco’s tyres are not road legal (e marked) is there anyway on confirming whether the TSL/SX is or isn’t. Figures cross they are (as I haven’t found many tyres which are suitable) Tom

Hi I am looking at buying a 4.6 rover v8 to use in one of my vehicles. I am planning on using a ZF4HP22EH4 auto box as well and have concluded that the cheapest and easiest way would be to buy a complete P38 (as along with the gearbox and engine I also need all the ancillaries) The reason why I’ve looked at 4.6 instead of a 4L is because it creates quite a lot more torque (as it has a longer stroke). As a result I feel its a lot more suitable for what I am planning to fit it into. I am not planning on tuning the engine and it will basically be completely standard. I have heard, very vaguely that the 4.6 rover is known to have some problems…… but I don’t really know what they are and how likely they are to occur (could anyone spread some light ) Tom

I’ll be contacting V8 engines (RPI) just to ask how they went round fitting the 4.6 to a manual box. Saying this I’ve really already been told everything I need to know; for now. (So don't worry I would be buying anything ) From other sources I heard that I would have problem with the replacing the flywheel as the 3.5/4.0L is milled differently and therefore not changeable with the 4.6. Another problem I was told I would have was with the crank sensor (but to be honest I got confused after that) ‘Fridge Freezer’ as you have done this conversion is it as simple as just bolting on a complete 3.5/4.0L setup or will I have to be prepared for some complication to occur. Many Thanks Tom

Thanks for you help. I came across this video on YouTube: Although it is a tuned 4.6 I think it’s relatively easily to say that he is running a manual box (due to the gear changes), although I may still be wrong. I’ll be contacting v8 engines anyway just to make sure and also ask how they went round doing it (Its hope anyway) As for why I've chosen a Rover V8 instead of anything else: Is because I don’t want to go too other the top with both horse power and torque. This is partly because I will be using and keeping the standard transfer box and gearbox. I don’t really want to send huge amounts of power through the drive train and quickly find out I have to upgrade everything else to handle it. Another reason for choosing a rover engine is because there are far more spares around in the U.K for these engines than anything else (I feel). As a result if I have any problems I expect that quite a few people will be able to help me out. Thanks Tom

Hi guys. I am considering fitting the 4.6 V8 Rover engine to my 404 unimog. I am taking the old cab off the vehicle and as a result the physical shape and size of the engine is less of an issue. After doing some research I have found the 4.6 fitted in the P38 range rover only came with an auto gearbox; but as I am planning to fit the engine to the standard 404 manual gear box I feel that an issue may occur. The engine is basically the same as the 4.0L apart from the crank stoke being longer but I don’t know if it would be possible to use the clutch, pressure plate and fly wheel from a 4.0L. Therefore if anyone knows it would be great if you could let me know. If anyone else has any other option which would be easier it would also be great if you could tell me. I suspect that I will either be getting an adapter plate or completely new bell housing made so that the engine can meet (Due to the stand 404 bell housing being an extremely odd shape). Finally does the 4.6 V8 Rovers have any issues or is it just as reliable as all the other Rover V8’s Thanks Tom

Being a mog owner I am quite interested to see how this build goes. Has there been any process on it Tom

Hi I live in Surrey and need to pick up a Unimog 404 within the next week or so. The size of the vehicle is as follows: Width 2150 mm 84.6 in. Length 5030 mm 198 in. Height 2290 - 2650 mm 90 - 104 in. Wheelbase 2900 mm 114.2 in. Track 1630 mm 64.2 in. Curb Weight 2650 kg. 5842 lbs. I’ve been trusted and allowed to drive my friends P38 range rover which has a towing capacity of 3500kg but I currently haven’t got a trailer to put the mog on. (I am aware that I will be towing to almost the range rovers limit) I am looking to hire a trailer for the day. I need it to be around 16ft long and I think possibly just over 7ft wide. I just wondered if anyone knew of any trailer hire company’s which would allow me to hire a trailer which is able to hold a mog. I am also looking for the company to be relatively close to were I live (I am in surrey, GU8 6HW) My other option would be to hire a car transporter so again if anyone known’s of any company’s which have suitable trucks on hire it would be great. Sorry to ask such a random question Tom

Braking Issue My Defender 90 recently failed it mot on uneven braking. I was somewhat confused when I received the failure sheet as it said the car was swerving to both the near side and offside. What I’ve done: Another thing my land rover failed on was that the near side disk brake was obsessively worn. As a result I’ve changed both front disk brakes and fitted new pads. After I finished this I took the car out for a spin and there was no improvement on the swerving. In general it did seem to swerve more to the near side but it also swerved to the off side as well (just not as often) As a result I went back to my garage and decided to re bleed all the brakes. Again I took it out for a spin and I there was not improvement on the swerving. When replacing the disks and pads I did find the front near side pistons were very stiff to push in (it required a crow bar to get them all the way in). I therefore decided that due to this and that it generally swerving to the near side that the calliper was not working properly. I therefore picked up a spare front near side calliper and replaced it. Again; took the car out and no particular improvement. After warming up the brakes a lot I did mange to get it to brake straight once (Front wheels look up before the rears) but even after this happened it kept on swerving to both sides. The land rover defender was made in 1989 and did used to have drums on the rear. The previous owner replaced the axel with a range rover one (meaning disks all round), I can’t believe this is an issue but then? I am running on GREENWAY ATACAMA tyres; I don’t know whether this could be an issue (do they have a reputation for poor braking) I just wondered if anyone could help me out with this issue. As you may be able to tell I am in a bit of a pickle Tom

To be honest I am going to give up replying to topic’s soon; I am forever making mistakes . Saying that this one wasn’t my worst (only a seat away)

Well for me the forums all good Whether this is new and the mods or someone have been able to improve the speed I don't know. but for me its as normal

It was a great event; I went to watch and it looked good fun I did bring my video camera but completely forgot to take any videos due to me constantly being distracted I watched Chris through many of the sections and all I can say is that I was very impressed Alistar Darling is quite a lucky chap owning the vehicle and I am glad to see it will be at the howlin wolf next year. If all goes to plan I should at least be competing in the last few events in my Unimog… but then who knows at my current build speed it might be the 2010 series . Thanks Tom

Like you (tomcat) I am also planning to start a unimog project. Currently I am on the look for a relatively good condition 404. It seems that your build going to be a lot more extreme than mine as I am planning on keeping the standard body and drive train (may replace the engine in the future). I have managed to find one picture of the rear pivot on a 404. As for disk brake's portal rover does a disk brake conversion which uses land rover callipers. The best bet would be contacting him (well I think) http://hi-land-rovers.moonfruit.com/ I’ve managed two find to shops in the US which do disk brake conversion for 404 axels http://www.exaxt.ca/axle.asp http://www.themogshop.com/show-product-ima...e=disc&pg=1 Thanks Tom

Hi I know we all like pictures I’ve been able to find some more pictures of red/yellow mog The owner does have an account on Pirate4x4 but I curtly cant remember his user name

Hi I’ve been doing a bit research on unimog 404’s. Sadly they only made 404s with petrol engines (Some diesels were made but they are very rare). Therefore I Think it would be more likely that I would end up with 2.7 liter petrol which should just about have enough power. Even though people sometimes talk about unimogs being stupidly expensive I don’t think one would end up being as much the other project I was planning (using the 110). Smaller mogs such as the U900/406 can be unstable but because of the length of a 404 I still think, even with the engine right at the front you would have to go down a pretty steep hill to roll/flip it. Because there classed as A.G vehicles they don’t have to go through Mot’s as well as an SVA. So you can bobtail / cut chassis away and have little if any problems with it on the road. 404’s are also rated below 3.5 tons meaning it’s basically classed as a normal car and won’t need a special over 3.5 ton license. I also think you have to pay extra road tax if your vehicle ways over 3.5 so I shouldn’t have that problem. So far everything seems pretty good

Thanks for all your replies Because of the comment ‘sheeppimp’ made about going through an SVA I’ve decided that it wouldnt be worth bobtailing a 110. The car will have been lifted through the tyres and portal axels so high I don’t think it will be too much of an issue anyway. Anyway after talking to a few people about this project a few of them have said, why not just use a unimog. A 404 has a 114” wheel base so 4” longer than the 110 land rover. I also suspect it would cost a lot less than the 110 project but I still think its a rather big jump. Just a thought Tom

Yep, I Portal rover can supply the axels with a disk brake conversion. The conversion uses land rover calipers and disks so no modifications to the master cylinder have to be made. Like any drum brakes unimog ones aren’t great with sand, mud and water so I think it will be well worth the money. As for transfer boxes: I have an option to either buy a used disco box, which won’t increase my speed all that much or get a custom made one, Again from portal rover. The boxes are specially made to go with mog axels and he says they will get you up to about 70-80mph but again this costs more than a second hand disco box.

I am hoping to use the car on the road and drive it to and from events. And Yes I have thought about putting a different transfer box on but maybe later (lack of money). I just want the car bobtailed on the axels and tyres. I think 40mph will just about be manageable to my nearest 4x4 sight . Anyway I’ve heard disco transfer boxes have a higher ratio than defender ones, so I think one of them will do the job (When I have the funds). To be honest I don’t think I will wont to do much more than 60mph when the cars finished, when you think about how 40” and ½ ton (will be un sprung weight) there not going to be great, I don’t think it’s going to beat any records

Thanks for all your help Tyres: You can never have too much axel ground clearance No the main reason I have decided to go for such large tyres is to raise the gear ration, which is needed as mog axels have a very low ratio (overall of 7.56). So by going for 39.5 tyres (thinking ever pitbull rockers or super swamper tsl’s) I’ve worked out that I should be able to go about 40m.p.h with the standard transfer box, I think. Width: The truck will be just less than 90” wide as Steve (the owner of the blue 90) went for slightly too offset wheels but yes it is going to be quite a wide truck Axels: Straightforward Supplies has been taken over by Portal Rover. He seems a very nice guy but sadly the prices have not decreased, it anything they may have actually gone up instead but then he supplies the axels bolt on and they are reconditioned. Tom

As a few of you may know I am planning to fit unimog 404 axels along with 40” tyres to a land rover defender, of some sort. I’ve been talking to a chap who has done the same setup (40” tyres, unimog axels) and put them on a defender 90. His truck is in the pictures below I was originally hoping to do exactly the same thing as him (fit the axels to a 90) and because of this I have recently brought a 90 pick up but after being told some more details I am starting to think that it may not have been such a wise idea. Lately I’ve been told the dimensions of the blue one (in the pictures). It’s basically a cube being 90” high, 90” wide and 90” long which basically means it is as stable on side slope as it will be going up and down hills (not counting were most of the weight is) Because if this I am now thinking about selling my recently brought 90 for 110 hi cap and fit unimog axels to it. By doing this the car will be far more stable (very strong) going up and down steep hills but the long wheel base creates new problems If I was to go along with this plan I think the first thing I would need to do is bobtail it as even with the car standing on 40” tyres its rear overhang will still be very bad/poor departure angle. I’ve had a go at editing some pictures just to see what a bobtailed 110 looks like, this was the result I think it makes the car look a lot smaller and almost nimble compared to a standard one. The other issue I think I am going to have with using a long wheel base car is that it turning circle will an issue. But from what I have heard unimog axels turn slightly tighter than standard land rover axels and if I was to fit fiddle brakes on the rear I may actually have a chance of turning without a shunt. I don’t yet know how effective fiddle brakes will be with 40” tyres but I am hoping to find out, somehow. Anyway I am just trying to get this out my head; with fiddle brakes do you think I will be able to compete in challenge events such as the howlin wolf. Also if any one is able to help me out, tell me any problems I may have (bobtailing, fiddle brakes) it would be great. I have the mog axels all sorted out, doing them through portal rover. (going to bite the bullet and pay for all the work with the axels to be done by someone) Thanks Tom

Thanks for your help. I was starting think that I had found my tyre,. super swamper tsl until I started looking at agricultural tyres. I recently found the MPT E 6 http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/.../mpt_e6_en.html AS you can see from the link above it has much the same tread pattern as the simex extreme trekker 2. The only problem I found with this tyre is that it is cross play, meaning that the tyre won’t flex that much. I also don’t know the diameter (I hope 38-42") they come in, only that they make a 12.5/20 and a 14.5/20 If I go for a tyre like this it should actually cost me a lot less money as in general they are a bit cheaper than other off road tyres. It would also mean that I wouldn’t have to get custom rims made as the wheels would fit onto normal unimog rims and the actual rims will just fit onto my new axels Tom

Yep, I think ‘portal rover’ is going to supply me with the set of axels and modify them so that they fit a Land rover. I have also decided to go for the disk brake conversion that ‘portal rover’ can supply the axels with. This should therefore mean that I can go for a slightly smaller rim, 16” when I would have use a 17” rim if I kept the standard unimog drums. But I am going to confirm this before buy a set of tyres

I have heard that some interco tyres are not road legal. Basically I need to do some research to find which one are and aren’t. Well I am getting custom rims made because I need them to fit unimog axels. Therefore I don’t really no what rim size I will be running on. I am thinking a 16” but its what ever suits the tyre I have looked at the maxxis tyres, they look ok but again they many of them look like a rock crawling tyres. Saying that the mudzilla looks ok and has much the same tread layout as tractor tyre, but the tread doesn’t looks very deep.