De Ranged
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Posts posted by De Ranged
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think the highest number you'll get for those diffs are after market ones from the states 5.29:1 but they wont be cheap mind you if you can afford 38"s
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Told me I couldn't see due to privacy settings... if that helps
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Well had an interesting discovery but sort of fits with what you pointed out Don "Made from what was readily available..." well I'm guessing cast iron was easier to get than steel... yep the final diff drive gear and the diff housing (including the spline) is made from cast iron.... I'm guessing the teeth on the spline have been induction hardened as the spark pattern was not noticeably different to steel, noticed it when I started machining the spline section
And the piece of steel I was planing on mounting this too I've machined it too far to cut the spline... so its now in the bin lol
Time for a redesign, looks like I'm going to have to spline my drive section....
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a shame I'm at the wrong end of the world lol or I'd buy a ticket
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Right still busy winding down my business and shorting the new shed I'm moving to... they have doubled my painkillers again LOL I was complaining about keeping my head in order before well its a right royal struggle now.... keeping focus on what I'm doing lol even typing this my mind is wandering
Anyway I got to a point with cleaning and sorting the workshop yesterday that I needed to do something constructive so I started on the PTO conversion (still haven't got the Commy trans you'll laugh at this the guy who has it, has pinched a nerve in his spine so nether of us can lift it lol)
Started out by roughing out on the lathe the new bearing mount/shaft extension that was a bit of machining (no pic of this sorry) now this shaft extension will fit onto the internal end of the main(input shaft) using the roller bearing mount pin and the PTO spline the new larger bearing mounts in the middle of this and then the dog clutch spline off the end of the transfercase diff housing
The spline from this end will be sweat fitted over the end and then welded on, before I do this I have to machine a bearing mount into the nose of this so I can add a "spigot bearing" to hold things inline when the gear is engaged
My only concern (other than machining a hardfaced and heat treated gear) is the other end of the dog gear (on the front axle stub shaft) has a shocking amount of backlash over 5mm.... this is factory and I haven't heard of failures due to this, but still.... almost got me tempted to sweat on an off cut of the spline above and grind some entry angles hmmm
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Maybe I misunderstood. The LT95 is a single cased combined gearbox and transferbox, are you machining the gearbox off the front of it.
Yep.... I'm a cheap person I'm not that keen on I happen to have a couple of LT95 box's they have a really good transfercase gear reduction (alot better than the jab stuff) and I can make a PTO output using the second box... got the idea from Soren off here from a couple of pic's I've managed to fill in the blanks and cheat a little on the machining lol
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Having driven logging skidders for years with swing axles... I don't mind driving it the way it is lol
I got the idea for the PTO off a thread here that Soren did using LT230 transfercases, I figured the LT95 was the for-runner for it so must be similar lol so the credit goes to him
The only clever bit is the cheat for the PTO drive gear... I'm not paying for broaching its too expensive LOL
As for my back had a cortisone injection about 3 weeks ago and I'm worse than ever my partner who is a nurse is convinced the only option is surgery... just a case of waiting for the specialist's appointment at the end of next month
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Spent the day sorting out how I'm going to setup the transfercase so the PTO thing will workGoing to use the center diff lock actuator and the front drive shaft stub axle and flange to engage/disengage the PTO there is a couple of bits I"ll have to machine up, a new bearing mount that slips onto the end of the main shaft engaging the pto gear and will have a section of the diff lock spline sweated onto the end and and welded the original roller bearing will fit inside this spline and the front stub shaft will be machined to seat into the roller bearing and bolt to the outside housing with a adapter housing that also holds the new mainshaft bearinghousing is machined down
had a bit of an idea of welding some alloy plate into the holes in the face then machining a mounting surface for a "sandwich" plate to mount this to the back of the commy trans but been rethinking this after trying to weld it :roll: done a bit of research and found I can change the AC frequency to pull the carp out of the casting then grind it away, keep doing this till I get enough clean metal to weld toReally got me thinking about just adding a drive flange and remote mounting it with a UJ to the commy transWill make that decision when I've got the trans... still waiting on it to turn up....
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Came to a conclusion today working out how I sort the PTO drive I"m not going to do tappered rollers I'm not even going to add another bearing in the "sandwich" plate between the auto and the transfercase but I am moving the roller bearing at the end of the shaft and replacing it with a 60ID 110OD deep grove roller bearing, the roller bearing will be moved out to support the join between the pto drive shaft and the piece I machine up for the dog gear... with the main bearing and this monster on the other end that shaft will be rock solid
now that I know what I'm doing I'll post this up on the build thread... thanks for the advice
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LOL That is so cool on a real red neck level .... I"ve always wanted to get an old small logging skidder and take the axles out and drop them wheels and all under a truck and rock up on a club run.... just to stir LOL I'd win the biggest tyre contest hands down and the strongest diffs
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LOL it was very good of them to post that video up with the data... couple of points that was a new ARB compared to a copy of there original one they have modified the internals, next notice in the vid the side gear teeth on the copy are not ground they are just a cast profile, the company we deal with would replace the unit if we showed them pics like that now after all that notice the difference in the amounts its less than 10%..... now and this is the telling point for me and you have to watch closely they don't make a point of it but when they show you the damage to the copy you just get to see the axle the axle has been deformed past plastic its f'd and a throw away.....
Now this is where my experiance comes in, did you know that hilux and landcruiser use the same spline and inner axle size (they have different diff sizes) now a worked 350 with locked axles for you old school guys or for the modern crowd worked LS2 both running cruiser gear..... the failure they have is the gear train.... transmissions and transfer cases, the only failure of the drive train was CV's on the 75 series front axle on the 350 powered 40 series, the LS2 trials buggy runs 80 series and routinely replaces his each season and hasn't had a failure yet and they have been dyno'd at over 600 hp now all this on 9.5" diffs... I know the axles are stronger than I need and if it is damaged in there test even a carp copy is more than adequate to do the job LOL since I'm only V6 at best blown I'm only really looking at half that hp so 8" will do and from my experiance will be the weak link
Don't let ARB's hype put you off, the major chinese manufactures don't want a bad rep... and yes they are outright copies LOL down to the ARB logo on the switches.... my view on supporting ARB has more to do with there pricing I have mates in Aussy land where they are made, and there buy cost (trade) is almost twice what I can get a genuine ARB from the USA(saddly killed by shipping) now if there mark up is that great they deserve the competition next there parts back up is not there for there older model, I have clients who have had to throw there genuine unit out due to parts not being able to be replaced... this surprised me for such a big brand and has cost them following then stack up I can buy a pair of lockers a pump and all the mounting hardware for the same price as just a single ARB unit and that is with shipping
As for experience I haven't heard of a single blown copy locker but I have heard and experienced fitment issues... with some, requiring machining to fit properly... this was with the earlyer ones and for smaller market groups (pajero) I haven't heard any issues with the toy stuff, it sounds like an importer mate is putting in another order so we'll see if there is any change... pretty certain he is just getting toy stuff
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LOL working on a cheap option for the PTO, was planing on doing this later.... from what I've seen on the net of the LT230 mated to the 700 holden trans I have to space it to give it room to fit the UJ before the trans sump, is the shaft strength enough of an issue that I need to do something with if so do you think its worth doing opposing tapered rollers on the front
As for sorceing LT230 parts LOL I'd rather not last one that sold on our version of ebay went for $460 silly pricing
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Right enough with the "vapour" time for the real thing well part of... I'm divorcing the transfercase
Planing on welding a plug in the reverse gear shaft hole, going to fit a seal infront of the main bearing and then machine a mounting face on this side... don't have the trans yet so don't know how long I need to make the shaft but if there is going to be a bit there I'll look at running another bearing in the sandwich plate as per bills suggestion
any other suggestions
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Lol why keep the rover housings I'll just do high clearance housings I'll gain an inch more clearance along the whole axle compared to the rover axle
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Not so keen on the patrol stuff diff nugget is too big... with 35" tires I'm at the same point as a hilux with 33"s.... since I'll be on 4.1's near on the strongest ratio for the 8" diff (4.375 is the strongest) peg the diffs and some cheap chinese lockers I'll never brake a diff
As for the housings and axles.... I have that custom setup on CAD from last time I made em so I'll do it again, the back is 40series offset but using hilux semi floater axles (never heard of one braking) up front, prado CV's and swivel housings, same as 75series cruiser and alot easier to find, you sweet on a band onto the cv bell and you have near on the same strength as longfields for a fraction of the cost
LC80 are a nice idea but are still selling for $2000+ for an axle set and thats before I do anything to them, the above setup I can do for $2500 and a few free hrs machining.... the other bonus is alot of the stuff I need for this is stuff that my wrecker mates don't normally sell unless to me and being a personal project they'll be easy to convice to do trades instead of coin LOL so it'll be alot cheaper
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Hmmm thats what I was expecting you'd say... kinda hoping there was some options for the rover stuff, but given I'm already planing on dropping a super charger on the commy there really was no hope LOL
Oh well guess the custom axles route it is
Thank you for the advice
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I know this subject has been done to death.... I've spent most of yesterday on the net researching it
but most forum's end up in a competition of egos over this subject
I've done my gearing calculations and using the LT95 transfercase and the Commy auto, in sticky mud I'll be happily pulling 2nd with either a 3.5 ratio just enough to hold second (rover diffs) or 4.1probably have to hold it in second (probably hilux diffs)
What I'm after is sufficent strength to happily run an aggressive 35" tyre at simple competition level (club winch comps, teams events)
More interested in what I can build than what I can buy, if the consensus is go Toy parts or safari then I'll build something like this...
But my landy is about a cheap toy not flash american style build
I currently have a set of Range Rover 10 spline axles that I've build up the rear... shaved
Axle tubes have been braced internally (you can see some of the plug welds in the pic above)
and I've added extra posts for another set of calipers for fiddle brakes, the rear has an ARB but its 10 spline I do have extra axles available from a mate
I was planning on pegging the diffs but I'm uncertain if I should continue with these axles... is it worth it, what sort of cost am I looking at ?
I know toy stuff inside and out if you guys say its a waste of time with the rover stuff I'll build another set of the grey axles with 4.1 hilux heads and 75series banded CV's and semi floating hilux rear axles... but I'd rather not as this truck is about extreme fun on a budget lol
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Thank you
LOL yep I've got a pair on, I've got 4 brand new 10ton ones if your interested that I haven't listed yet
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Had back pain wake me the other morning at 3am after I gave up trying to get back to sleep I researched the gearing ratios.... set the whole lot up in excel so I could work out my diff gearing.... with the standard Commy auto and the divorced LT95 transfer case, I should in pull nicely in second on the auto with Range Rover 3.5 diffs and 35" tyres... kind of good as I have a couple of Range Rover diffs sitting here... but its ment there is no point in fitting the ARB to the Landy 4.7s I'm running at the moment since I'll have to change after I do the motor swop so fiddle brakes and arb will wait....
Going on a run this weekend, just a farm play day... but I've been warned there could be a river involved so I need the airbox sorted so had a bit of a go at it today....
and the shot from inside the cab
This will let me see if any water gets in.... just got to plumb it forward to the LD's air intake, I'm just going to use flexable shop ducting... after i've done the engine swop I'll set it up with a hard alloy air tube along the top of the trans tunnel
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"T" the rear line at the firewall run the lines up to where you want your levers and run a hilman imp master on each line then plumb them back to each wheel
You'll want to build some sort of frame to hold the levers and it will need good mounting as you haul on these LOL
My setup all I use is clutch master's running to a seperate line from there to the wheel
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My RRC rear axle has extra posts I welded to the axle so I could run extra calipers, this is road legal (certifiable) the other ways are to plumb in hilman imp master cylinders into the line to each wheel so the remote master is the normal brake master... you can get certification with this setup but its got to have removable levers so when your onroad no levers
The other way I've come up with is to go to a cable handbrake caliper like Izzuzu bighorn and we attach a handbrake cable to the caliper this is certifiable since we have a carden driveshaft handbrake on the landy
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The front is probably about 6 months off.... I'm down sizing my shed to something I can afford on limited income, just incase my back dosen't get better so my current lease ends the end of this month... still uncertain where I'm moving too the building I had arranged has turned out to be a bit of an issue so I've pulled pin on that worst case it all goes into the garage at home LOL
Plans are too sort little bits at the moment, air box, wiring, wippers, heater/demister... if I'm staying with the rover axles then peg a couple of heads, got an old ARB thats rusty resurrect it and put it out back, possibly fit a hilux slippery up front (been told they can be made to fit, anyone able to point me to any write ups on this), fit fiddle brakes to the rear
Cage the rear of the truck (this is being left open as I want a PTO rear mount winch) and rear mount the radiator
I'll also sort the divorce on the LT95 transfercase... I have a couple so its what I'm going with, picked up a couple of ideas off bills vapour thread so going to add a bearing in there for strength... I'll get the Commy sitting on the floor all bolted up first that way its a quick job of the engine swop, loom will already be wired into the landy, cooling will be sorted just need to plumb up... it'll be a case of engine mounts cross member and drive shafts LOL well thats the plan
With all that done I'll start into the front suspension... that way I can work it round the motor and I'll swop the front axle out for either a Range Rover 10 spline one I have here or if the Patrol ones turn up the patrol ones
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Uniformed - the leaf springs do nothing to locate the axle it is done by the links, it seems more than adequate I was "tram lining" in clay ruts and it stay'd there good enough to bounce me around in the seat, I am planing to go to ball joints on the links this will improve its feel
Daan - LOL you hit the nail on the head "speed"... to be honest I'll be surprised if I use high box on this thing... she is a trailer queen, yes there is the odd time i'll get speed up for momentum but thats 3rd low so its not an issue.... in the long term I was planing on tying the cage into the top of the hoops, that will more than brace them... still looking for inspiration for design at this stage so the rear cage/deck design is still open other than the basics of triangulation
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LOL I have no issue with playing, my issue is idiots that rip up areas that are sensitive like Macetown track down Queenstown or up here Area 51 on the Napier Tuapo
Any way back to the toy.... one of the issues I had (or on this trip didn't have...) was an air filter, well I've been cleaning up stuff since I'm closing down my business and I found a brand new air filter for an old digger I had... not something that would sell on our version of ebay so decided to use it for the truck
The box is made from an old range rover fender, took me near on half the afternoon to get all the paint and bog off it LOL going to silicon the seams and rivit the box together and then into place, hopefully will be getting some polycarb dropped off for a sight window
Been thinking about body.... mainly to do with the doors since thats an issue I'm going to have to address soon could you guys direct me to some pic's of decent exo/comp bodies I still want the old girl to look like a landy and I'd like to keep the rear deck but I'm looking for ideas to get my creative thing going LOL
ratio swap?
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I have no experience with later model rover stuff but to consider rebuilding a gearbox every yr LOL I would consider that a failed build idea
Anyway your standard diff ratios are 4.1 for 80 series stuff.... I have heard talk that the manual euro release came out with 3.7's just seems a little odd to me.... first off thats a 10% taller gearing, that is enough to take it out of the rev range second toyota have a proven 3.9 so why reinvent the wheel ??