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De Ranged

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De Ranged last won the day on November 12 2016

De Ranged had the most liked content!

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About De Ranged

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    Old Hand

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    Napier, New Zealand

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    LOL hmmm I'm a true petrol head if it has a motor its cool and it means I can improve it

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  1. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    And the answer, I kept looking at the X member and I just don't see a twisting load so ....... I carved out a bit and replaced it with a 6mm flat so it should still have plenty of strength in compression and tension ( a hit on the B pillar) A whole lot of holes later we have And all finished with the batteries in Now onto the shocks, bumps and maybe mount the rear winch
  2. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Thanks guys you've backed up what I've seen here in NZ, most run the pulley and fairleads for the reasons you've stated Nearly finished the rear battery box, and I was looking at it thinking that the front winch is going to be heavy enough by its self up front, maybe I should put both batteries in the back so ...... Bugger!..... if only I'd thought of this a bit sooner hmmmm might have to tweek things lol
  3. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Thanks Bisbosh I'll have a search tonight, I didn't know the term for it...... here most people seem to think 1.1m is the magic number, My thinking is based on using 9-32mm wire rope for logging. The shape of the wire will help it lay (why I have wire on my club toy because the guy who built it set it up so it can't be seen).... plasma crosses over its self alot easier because it doesn't have the same form, the deal for me is to reduce the severity of the bunching and I always build my winches so they can be seen. this one is going to be a bugger down infront of the motor but a good trick i found so long as your clear of hot air is a reversing cam and screen and I may have to set one up with the front winch Mikey thanks for the complement lol thats just me I over think every thing I do on my stuff even simple tabs, but just for the books I'm not a granny I'm a sort of grandad to one of my foster boys lol. I'd love to do what you guys have done with running around the cage but.... the whole idea for this truck is to have it look like a series landy and that front end isn't going to allow me to do that. As for overkill I agree the rope is going to be 12mm plasma and the winch is a Toyota 70 series pto winch with a taller drum (to deal with the bunching) air ram on the dog clutch for free spool, I will be running the worm gear so no need of a brake (I have a winch that was setup for competition that has steel worm gears and reinforced end plates on worm gear shaft to stop it screwing the shaft past the gear, this will be driven by a wide toothed belt assembly that I can change the gearsets to match conditions, some of our comps are bonnet deep thick mud some are greasy hills, the belt will run to a twin 12v motor set that will be run by a control box so I can run 12V or 24V and series or parallel on the motors and motors and belt box will be piped into the air system so I have positive pressure to stop/limit the mud getting into them....... mmmm did I mention I over think things lol and yes this is kinda the other way from the rest of the truck which is about light weight minimal, then I have a monster of a winch lol my goal is to give the god winch boys a run for there money Mike thats the common theme over here I prefer rollers as I've seen major dramas with tubes that have worn and catch/cut the rope.... most of the central N island is pumice and that stuff wears at everything! Tell me have you had any issues with the tube filling with mud and making it real hard to pull out on free spool ?
  4. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    LRF that is what I was thinking, mounting it just infront of the rear hook with a roller fairlead, above the hook and use the shock brace bar to mount another roller fairlead above the winch and put some pipe (or similar style) fairleads in each corner of the B pillar and either make all the fairleads able to fit the hook or do some sort of simple release for the hook so I can thread the end of the line through Mike I'm surprised that was all you were running, the vid's of that event are serious winch comp stuff.... I've never heard of a vector system is this where you give it enough length between the last failead and the drum that it self spools, this is what I'm trying to with the front winch The front winch is going to be rather large, both in width of the PTO unit and the double electric drive and toothed belt setup going up and forward above it. trying to run this unit as a rear mount would be a bit of a sqweeze but not impossible, the reasons I want it upfront is part of our winch challenge is winch walls so I want a forward weight bias I'm aiming at about 60-65% forward to help with climbing.... the second reason is in a comp if I brake the line behind the front fairlead in a stage you'd give up lol having the motor between us is a real space challenge adding a winch line either a tube that is an A$$ to thread or a heap of fairleads and have to pull covers and climb around hot stuff..... doing this in a bog or under muddy water just an't gona happen lol ..... where as with the winch mounted infront of the motor I won't have any hot areas or moving parts of the motor to work around, the bonnet I can lean up against the cab and I have one fairlead to fit it through... I might even be able to do it by braille in muddy water lol I've done a few mid mount winches and used them for a while now and I always set them up so that I could either pull out a bite or pull the rear pully out and winch a 2 to 1 pull, but the reality is in all the yrs I've been 4wd'ing I'be only ever used this a couple of times...... if its dodgy enough you don't want to winch forward, your the first truck in and you should have walked it first lol but there is someone behind you who can snatch you or winch you back My thinking is this.....For competition I'm building the truck so it can drive or launch at alot of the stuff others are winching on, this means I'm going to end up in places I might not like lol or roll/crash if I've got a winch that can put me back on my wheels I loose time on one stage instead of a DNF and any stages I manage to drive I make a big win on the times
  5. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Been given an old Warn winch that came off an old 413 Zuk 7 or 8000lb unit that only needs a new solenoid to run...... will know more when I get home
  6. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Gidday Guys I'm after some input from some of the English/Euro winch comp guys...... I intend to use this for winch comps here in NZ, more for the teams events than the full on winch comp's as they are more about the fun of it than the competitive side Now our winch comp stuff is all about dragging yourself through or up stuff here, there isn't much of the "use the winch to traverse" stuff that I've seen on UTube so up front I plan on running a twin electric motor driven pto winch (still working on design and parts list lol) But what I'm thinking about is a second rear/mid mounted small electric winch, say a 5000lb... enough that it could pull it back onto its wheels in the case of a roll over or using a block drag its self backwards..... I just don't know if its worthwhile, next what size..... is there a big/small loss of pulling power due to friction pulling around fairleads on the corners of the cage ? What sort of fairleads are you guys running etc
  7. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Finished at 2am last night lol Fri night drinks didn't happen and I got my groove on lol I didn't want to stop I got a call from my partner.... I pretended I didn't know what the time was and just needed a bit more to finish..... nope it was home time Got the top mounts just about done I'm real happy, with how they came out they tie the tube rear too the chassis really well .... still got the plate to go up in the mount to cap the chassis and the base.... but 2am is late enough lol And yes the dimpled piece sitting under the engine mount is going to be one of the battery boxes Finally finished with the rear cage now the bottom is in I was able to remove the jigging material I was using to hold the cab sides in position I don't know why but now that the red jig is gone its made the rear end look really short lol Now its about mounting things.... Radiator, shocks, bumps, rear battery etc
  8. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Thank you Badger, years of practice building stuff has sort of earned me an ability to do that but there is still alot of time spent staring at things problem solving things in my head lol Thanks LRF I do think they have come out looking cool, but after building them I'd have to say that for the time and effort it took I have my doubts about using them, Here's why I"ve got over 2 days of shed time in these two links.... now while this might not sound too bad, consider if I'd gone with Ruff Stuff 7/8" Rod End sets Ruff Stuff Land Rover Cost per link $145.00 $80.00 Time 6hrs 18hrs Bear in mind I saved alot of time by cutting up some (NOS) hilux tie rods, and ball joints (not in the cost) so if I was to make all of this I'd say your looking at another 6hrs of machining time now you could go to 20mm threaded rod (easy to source, but $130 for a meter) and your still looking at machining receivers. The time on the Ruff Stuff includes the time to machine the Rod End receivers to fit into the structural pipe I used (they are made to fit DOM which is a tube measure) Another point of note is these are the britpart ones not LR, now I made the holders a slight interference fit and I found that knocking some of the joints in the hammer left marks on the mating face of joint and in one case where I didn't tap it with the hammer lined up properly it deformed the bolt hole....... this leaves me with a concern these joints wont last. I can easily get the genuine LR part but they are worth another $20 a joint All that said there is one bonus these have over the Ruff Stuff joints they are sealed and given the abrasive nature of our mud that is a big bonus and I'll use them on the front as well (and I like to be different lol)
  9. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    The top links.... been alot more work than I thought but these shouldn't have any issues Started into the Chassis Mount..... this is going to tie into the spring mount that is why it has gone so far back down the chassis I couldn't resist drilling a few speed holes after all this is a comp (ish) buggy There will be a shorter one on this side and a couple of braces inbetween to tie side to side and the X brace between.... I'd have to check the numbers but this gives me 4 adjustments
  10. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Cycled everything on the temp arms got all the measurements and got the diff set.... nearly got the top arms done, so almost ready to fab up the top chassis mounts. (tomorrow) Did check the clearance for the tyres to the Tub Capping.... its on the money lol If I set this level of flex in the front its going to make it hard to keep the series guard look lol but I'll deal with that when I get to that end
  11. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    A wee bit I didn't post up from last trip home I'm doing ball joints on the front of the bottom arms so had to machine up some threaded inserts And what I got sorted yesterday Got both the bottom arm joints on..... discovered I'd been in too much of a hurry when I'd machined the thread plugs for the 50 x 50 box, when I'd done my test fit screwing the rod ends in they were still warm lol yep they shrunk, not enough to not work but they are tight..... I know better lol Had a good mate come to play so got a few little jobs sorted like the joining the tub capping to create a structural rear end not that I should ever take a hit across there, given how far the tyres stick out lol it was something structurally that wasn't proper. And yes that is where full bump is going to be for the suspension I'm going in this morning to fit the other bottom arm and the missing top arm and cycle the suspension so I can work out clearance between the top arms chassis mounts and the bottom arms. Because my bottom arms come up over the top of the axle it moves them up enough to conflict with the top arms chassis mount.... so they get built accordingly
  12. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Got a bit more done on it All 4 tyres are now done Got all the machining done on the top link ball joint mounts..... i did cheat lol I had a few hilux tie rods left over from previous work and they happen to have an M21 x 1.5mm thread so I used them to start with lol still had to machine up jam nuts tho The thread bungs are designed to go into 25 NB med pipe this should be plenty for top links I was going to use these ball joints on the bottom links at the front but the collar that they mount into is only 21mm wide and I want a bit more meat than that..... I happened to have some Jony joints from another project so I'm making up some thread bungs to weld into the end of the 50 x 50mm box I made the bottom links out of, I'll have to leave the axle end of the bottom links with a rubber mount (because the links aren't straight I need the rubber to hold them in alignment) Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the bottom links modified and the top links made and be working on the top link mounts Oh cycled the diff on the temp link setup to check drive shaft UJ angles at ride height I have a 6.4 degree angle at the front and 5.3 degrees at the diff, at full drop (10"" drop from ride height) front is 18.4 degrees and rear is 0.3 degrees.... at full bump (6" up from ride height) front is 0.2 degrees and rear is 1.9 degrees So my plan is when I setup the top links I'll push them back enough to rotate the diff a couple of degrees, it would be nice if I could run a double carden but there isn't the room at the trans due to part of the trans its self lol This will point the rear diff up a fair bit over standard (I already had it pointing up abit) if I start to have issues with front pinion bearings I'll make up a spring out of 3 or 4mm wire and put that on the pinion shaft between the bearings to act like an oil screw
  13. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    A small update this time..... was distracted with my 40 Series Cruiser went to take it out for a play and discovered the bottom end bearings had gone, carb float had been set too high and was pouring fuel into the motor enough had gotten past the rings that the oil had thinned out. So after alot of research I made the call to repower with an LS1, the cruiser is about playing with mates... not about problem solving and making it into something cool lol so I'm throwing way to much money at it to sort it quickly As well as that I did a favor for a mate for his truck (a gen 1 hilux with a lexus conversion) I took his front axle housing and shaved braced and true'd it for him But I did manage to get a little bit done on the toy.... I got a seat mounted lol Wahoo! This might sound a bit odd and all over the place but we have rather restrictive rules regarding the cage roof and crew halo's, the dimensions that these are set too are (from the centerline of the cage tube to the center of the helmet) +/- 25mm and the same forward so you need to know where your sitting to build the roof So Now not to scite but thats light wall 25mm tube bent in my pipe crusher and no crimping or crushing 😎 This may change in the long term as I still haven't worked out the rear leaf spring mount member and I may change the rear of the seat bar to mount to that instead... time will tell This shows the angle the seat is mounted on. This will hopefully keep my legs clear of the firewall over the motor and it keeps my shoulders inside the cab lol Still got another mount to do but that will come off the lower part of the engine fire wall when its up But with the three of them I was able to get the helmet position and start the roof (I don't have any pics of that as I've only just started) but the outside of the halo bar has 5 bends to track the line of the roof and cage lol most of them very subtle unless you look close you'd miss them yet without them the roof doesn't look right Oh and got a box of goodies delivered For next time
  14. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Thats the easy one, getting the front to look right that is going to be a bit of a challenge....... The paneling to finish the look of the rear is a long way off as I'm just trying to work on the heavy stuff so I can set the leaf springs for the rear, ordered the suspension joints so will have a go at the top links and roof next time I'm home
  15. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Also got the A pillar bent up and on I've taken a bit of a gamble on the shape I've stuck it up a bit more than the roof line so I'd be able to fit a light bar up under the pillar.... the strap is to "tweek" it a bit as I bent it symmetrical the catch is the old cab isn't lol so pulling it a little before I weld up the roof brace this shows how high I pushed it up, hopefully I can make it look right
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