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De Ranged

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De Ranged last won the day on November 12 2016

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About De Ranged

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Napier, New Zealand

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    LOL hmmm I'm a true petrol head if it has a motor its cool and it means I can improve it

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  1. Then that lack of understanding gets noticed and a percentage of the public take if for conspiracy and start joining dots that don't exist lol..... Stuck at home with bugger all to do I've been surfing FB its amazing how inventivily stupid people can be..... joining dots that don't exist and how strongly they believe the world is out to get them
  2. Lol I modify things, thats my fun..... to be honest the journy/process of design, problem solving and creating is of way more interest than actually having and using the end product, I'm an ex logging contractor and farmer so I've spent 25+ yrs driving and opperating where most wouldn't lol I won't say I'm over it, but 4wding is almost more about the social thing for me... I'm just as happy in the passanger seat motivating a mate to have a go even if its my rig lol because if its broken its back in my workshop for improvements To that end.... I hate to compromise an idea And while the industrial radiator is a good option it doesn't solve the issue, at rallywoods putting that upfront would get me another bog maybe 2 or 3 before I have to wash it out and it will be easyer to wash... the clay in the slop drys on in layers lol its not uncommon to see an inch of mud stuck to the front of the radiator there
  3. Because I've already bought the Radiators for my current projects lol Alloy ones at that! Your suggesting just behind the doors ? That would be an interesting challenge as I'm going to be trying to keep the exo as tight as I can on the outside and the seats on inside hmmmm do-able tho.... not going to allow me to draw off the steam from the headers and motor tho
  4. I know this is going to sound daft lol but the whole technology thing hasn't been confirmed yet..... using a camera as wing mirrors, your example etc...... there is one vehicle that is leading this issue and that is a disability conversion with electronic steering and controls, this vehicle is pushing very hard so they are writting rules to cover this. Till then it is a case by case thing and I'm back to the discretion of the certifier and the warrent tester Bowie its not as simple as it seems, there is a big thread up on a local FB group about fitting radiators into the rear side windows (Patrols and Cruisers) and the concensous was that ducting did little to help.... it was all about the fans, some of the guys had put alot of develpment time in on this and on long sustained climbs (road) they still had cooling issues..... now one thing I did notice is there was no talk of where to vent, the discussion was about fitting the whole system in a window inclosure, maybe if you were to vent somewhere like the top of the rear door it would make the scoop work? Fridge lol 25yrs I've been working around and with heavy earth moving gear (even washing mud out of radiators) and I never thought of this lol I will remember this for the next toy Escape thats not a bad idea, I'm trying to visualize a 40 series with racing door vents lol..... just a thought would the exo tubes interfer with the surface flow ?... just realised that would stop the windows winding down bugger I've got a mid mounted PTO winch so the radiator will go above this just below the rear window (I'm allowed to lift the floor behind the seats as far as I want, as no issue with occupant safety), as for sealing the bonnet I was going to run a length of door seal under the rear of the bonnet.... the sides of the gaurds come up under the sides of the bonnet so should create a bit of natural seal.... if I have to I'll seal them as well. Stopping this is a big bonus to me. There are guys here with winch trucks that run trans cooler fans under the bonnets to push the steam down to lessen the issue, I'll probably do the same if this isn't good enough There are alot of transaxle buggies here that use the rad fan to pull the engine heat back to cool it down for the occupants (google NZ 4wd trials its good to watch) and I've never seen a rear rad setup that struggled to cool, I think its a combination of the extra volume of coolant and the cooling gained from the hard lines. All that said I've never seen one sealed into that airflow like I'm looking at
  5. It has been done with perspex and it is about the only way I could do it catch is it depends on the certification tester and the yearly warrent testers opinions.... if either feel the qaulity of vision is impacted then I'm screwed and have to remove it its not trees its the shrubs on the side of the track.... imagine hedges of branches from finger width to 50mm thick and these are just off the track lol thats Minginui forest. This truck was built for it Notice the fiberglass roof.... look closely at the top of the windscreen, the orignial roof has a gutter that sticks out not much about 20 or 30mm if that but it was catching enough it damaged the roof so this one was made..... personally I prefer "Camel trophy" wires to lift the branches over Those issues aside a roof scoop doesn't address the issues I wanted to solve and one of them is steam on the windscreen you might laugh at that but when you have to stick your head out the window to see and your driving clay ruts and a hedge of branches to the side lol its not good I'd rather my head was inside the cab
  6. My idea so far..... and I'm getting to the piont its going to be a try it and see thing lol is Is lift the floor between the seats as much as I can (legal safety limits to protect occupants) possibly around 400mm wide by as much as 500mm tall with a rolled top (curved corners part of the occupant protection), the firewall and under dash will get a cone as wide as I can push it without interfering with the pedals and an equal amount on the other side (symatry looks good lol) and as high as I can take it up under the dash At the back of the cab I'm guessing mounting the radiator on a 45 degree angle "\" to the cab.... and will be sealed into the deck/guards I'm guessng the flow dynamic is going to get all screwed from what I've seen with my ute, to my eye the wind flows over the cab and is hitting the rear half of the tonneau cover forcing it down, most of this turbulance flows over the back, but a small amount flows forward towards the cab and cycles up the back of the cab lifting the front of the tonneau Given the 40 is a brick, is twice as tall, the deck is as good as half as long and I'm going to have an exo interfering with the flow Im expecting the area behind the cab to be a mess of turbulance with no real flow, but due to the flow around and over at enough of a pressure differentail it will draw through the radiator if it is sealed This is why I'm' guessing at a 45 degree angle, I see it as sorta hedging my bets lol I'll try and keep the exhausts out the sides and put some sheilding to try and limit there heat impact and I was thinking of some sheet metal deflectors around the base of the engine and possibly in the transmission tunnel to keep the bulk of the flow through to the radiator and limit debris... but I'll try and keep these minimal as I don't want them acting as mud traps Any thoughts ? Anything I've missed ? Thanks for the feedback it helps with my thought process lol
  7. Yep you guys are right, a roof scoop works and works really well..... your drawing dust free air, and good flow..... catch is while we are allowed to blackout/interfair with the vision throught the back window it is only for commercail vehicles lol there is next to no way I could get away with it I have considered ducting (over the sides of the roof, and around the sides of the cabin) but this is the open conditions for alot of tracks lol I don't have any pic's on the computer of the tracks where the bush is trimmed back to keep the tracks open, I'll leave it with the comment it is common to slip a branch down between your exo and body and break the stick as you bend it between cage and body... and yes this F's pannels.... This is why I'm getting "inventive" lol The other thing is we don't have a dust problem in New Zealand lol over winter its the oposite.... why I see keeping the engine steam off the windscreen such a big gain For the books we don't salt our roads and I'm not a big fan of beach runs The road going side of it is going to be limited 1-3000k's/yr, I want this for club runs and the ocasional epic... and I'm going to setup the radiator up so it can be removed/tilted for cleaning... some of the play areas have a sloppy mud that is very deep and once it touches anything warm it drys on, but washes off easily Lol I would have if I could, my knowledge of flow dynamics is F all, so something like this would have been the way....... catch is what has prompted this build is the flywheel almost fell out so the truck isn't a runner lol My understanding so far on the aerodynamic's is from watching the tonneau cover of my ute (which has a way lower cab and almost twice the deck).... and from past vehicles I've built for the road (I solved one with ducting, one with extra radiator core (I used two radiators), and the rest with HD fans (Audi ones I think from the A4's, these fans will pick themselves up off the floor and fly! but they are a huge draw 80amp fuse) and some non-realated posts on a commador forum about drag from racing utes that backs up my observations driving my ute Lo-fi your comment about using the exhust gas flow was intregging untill I did some math..... I started with the best case option (I can cause as much flow as the exhust via ventui/heat) I started by converting everything to the same standard "flow per second" The engine 5.7L @ 2000rpm = 190L/sec of gas flow (1L =1000000mm3) Wind 1km/hr = 277.8mm/sec The surface area of the radiator is 735mm x 438mm = 323244mm2 So 190,000,000 / 323244 = 587.8mm/sec of flow or less than 3km/hr of wind flow.... math can really steal the fun out of an idea lol
  8. This is something I'm contemplating doing to a 40 series Landcruiser...... I'm posting it up here because of all the groups I'm part of this group has the best bunch of thinkers I've come across and the least of the web crawler mentality where they have to be heard even if they don't know anything, or can't extrapolate lol Now to set the scene, this is about road going vehicles with a rear mounted radiator at sustained open road speed .... we all know it works on slow offroad toys. The issue is at road speed, there is a vortex behind the cab that does two bad things first it recycles the same air and there is a slight reduction in air pressure Now my idea is to open up the transmission tunnel behind the motor vertically so the air forced into the engine bay to flow above the gearbox and back to the radiator mounted at the end of the new transmission tunnel at the back of the cab, sealed to the deck and guards - The lower pressure in the deck should help draw this through from the transmission tunnel ? - will the turbulance under the vehicle destroy this flow ? - Is there a vacumn under the cab that would cause this to want to flow from the back of the cab to the underside ? - I don't think the engine heat will be an issue ? (I've done a few buggys and there are alot in competition that have a low mounted rad that draws past the engine and from below, and they work) - will the vertex in the back, flows forward towards the cab and up the back of the cab impact flow ? If I can pull this off I gain two big bonus's from an offroad perspective..... first is the fact the radiator isn't in the front pushing the bow wave of sloppy mud when you enter a bog, and second by drawing the air from the engine bay under the cab I stop all the steam from the engine and exhust when you hit a wet crossing or bog going up infront of the windscreen effecting vision The setup I'm planing on running in the 40 series is an LS1 (5.7L), running the biggest Davis Craig electic water pump and controller, with Alloy water pipe lines between the motor and radiator, and a Nissan Patrol TD42 alloy radiator (basicly the biggest radiator short of a truck one lol), I was planing on 2 x 16" radiator ducted fans (one on a manual switch and the other on the Davis Craig controller) Any thoughts... experiances....... before I carve out the floor on my 40 lol
  9. Sounds similar to what I've got that I use most a version of this https://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/other/listing-2588098134.htm?rsqid=1b50719662224969a7e105e008e572dc-006 I got mine off trademe (our version of ebay) for $45 each and the lights are still going strong 3 yrs later, they do have a few issues they take ages to charge (think its 6hrs to charge to full), They are a bit fragile for my level of abuse.... I regually need to straighten the black straps as this bends under impact lol and on one I've broken the lug on the light on one side where the lock down nut is On the positive, cheap (when I do finially kill one I'm not going to cry lol), Light weight, this plus the legs are just the right size and length to jam in around things so you can "hang" it on headrests, rollcages, roof seams etc, the battery is good enough it lasts upto 4hrs
  10. LED's have a bit of a catch Remember for yrs they weren't allowed to be fitted to vehicle headlights, this is due to LED's light wave length.... your eye doesn't perceive detail very well in this wave length, don't ask me any more on this lol I never bothered to learn more Now becoming half blind in the last few yrs lol I've noticed this effect from my worklights, the older style worklights (the ones with banks of LED's) while they pump out lots of light... buggered if I can read a vernier or ruler in that light..... my new'er CREE style work lights are alot better (single sqaure element) Given the style of diffuser cover on that one in the link I'm guessing its the early banked style and I wouldn't recomend them Oh and where I really want to see well (the lathe, mill and serious worklight situations) I use incandesant (sp?) lights and I have a supply of bulbs for the worklights find they pop when ever I move em or weld splatter hits them lol but that good light is worth it
  11. On another note... the post Covid economic effect I've just gotten an email from AirNZ our national airline (i'm a share holder and an airpoints member) the management have been sending out updates since before flight restrictions started and have been in consultation with our Govt from the start Up untill now staff have been off on leave or partial pay from a Govt subsidy... but there jobs were being held there untill things start back up again So the Govt is expecting our tourism industry to dry up..... this is depending on source but around 8% of GDP and somewhere around 200,000 jobs (directly imployed) I imagine this is going to be similar in other countries
  12. Almost there.... Use an old rim, cut a hole in it above the caliper (at least twice the lenght of the caliper, enough to fit over the caliper and the grinder seperate and you want enough length that when you swing the rim the grinder cuts the whole length of the caliper)... weld a couple bits of scap metal so you can hold a die grinder with a alloy carbide as you swing the rim, you adjust the cut by tilting the grinder and push it in and out to cut the whole surface Alternatively you could use a grinder with an alloy grinding disk and mount the grinder the same way The bonus of this is you use the end of the "window" as a pattern to show you where and how much to cut I've done this on one truck, a trailer queen..... cutting back the caliper isn't legal on our roads
  13. Things are a bit silly over here at the moment, a lot of the buisness's near my workshop are claming they are an exception.... so I'm going to give it a bit of time to settle down before I start heading in..... sort my vegi garden and the house gardens lol I've even got some painting to do for my miss's (and the neighbour who is scared of me lol) I've also started doing some Solidworks tutorials But that said I got 2 sheets of alloy and a heap of steel, a fresh bottle of argon and some consumables picked up and dropped off at the workshop yesterday..... so I'd have something to entertain myself with lol If your bored Deep give me a call lol we can talk about the insanity or insane projects
  14. Its the same here, in New Zealand, the industrial area where my workshop is, I'd say that 50% of the buisness's are still working.... I'm guessing this will resolve its self within the next week Then on the flip side I've just recently seen a post from some Tourists in a camper van desperate for somewhere to move to after the holiday park in town decided to shut its doors and kicked all the tourists out..... A local supermarket had a gang fight happen over some chicken pieces! Went to talk to one of my neighbours today to offer aid and she had a go at me today.... the goverment shouldn't have allowed me to come home People are scared, and when they are they tend to over react or not think about there actions as much as they should...... things will settle down with a bit of time and thinking, and in some cases when the authoritys have to act
  15. As of tonight thats us as well in New Zealand I'm going to.... talking to different buisnesses alot of them are deemed "esential" and will be working just not dealing with public and using couriers and delivery to drop off pick up etc
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