Jump to content

De Ranged

Settled In
  • Posts

    894
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

De Ranged last won the day on November 12 2016

De Ranged had the most liked content!

Reputation

143 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Location
    Napier, New Zealand

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    LOL hmmm I'm a true petrol head if it has a motor its cool and it means I can improve it

Recent Profile Visitors

1,711 profile views
  1. Personally for the amount of use you've suggested and the cost of even the skin alone.... I'd be considering other things like a better welding mask or other specialist tools to spend the money on.... that said I still do site mechanics with hand ratchets I only use battery rattle guns if they are supplied, simple deal my hand tools have never let me down lol and they get what the rattle gun can't But if you are going to get one, then the high torque 1, you can dial it back when doing stuff up but its there when you need it... you get a crank bolt that the mid one wont crack your left doing a dodgy that could bend valves, damage starter gear teeth or damage the crank pulley lol or throwing heat at something your don't want to heat
  2. Never heard of them... did a google search, 8 and half thousand PSI on a pistol grip grease gun lol I stand corrected that is a beast of a grease gun! Now to find some one who will ship one to New Zealand lol
  3. Use a lever style grease gun they have a higher pressure... I think the good ones get to 1500psi
  4. Don't stress the oil in these things I used to buy cheap chinese 20-30ton jacks to use for pushing trees over on arb jobs, having crushed a few.... the oil they supply is what ever they get cheap lol Onsite in deperation I have refilled a jack with a mix of chainsaw chainbar oil and deisel.... it worked well even stopped leaking around the plunger seal (till it was stolen lol) The design and construction is so basic on these, all but the top end ones just use "O" rings as pressure seals and I'm yet to find a chinese one that even has a wiper seal on the spear, based off this the thicker the oil, while still getting it to flow the better the jack will be How thick you want depends on how cold you are if your in cold conditions I'd consider thinning your engine oil down
  5. I love that comment, it is about the journey of building it.... the fun of solving the problems When you farm out jobs it becomes more about finishing than the journey and in my case takes a bit of sparkle out of the whole project lol keep up the good work Oh and I'm with Mike, you have plenty of strength in that.... and worst case if it does go it will bend not brake due to the material choice (the fact you drilled it shows its not something silly like Bis).... my only piont of interest is the bushes, your going to get an increased leverage due to the portals, it will be interesting to see how long there service life is
  6. Morning all Got myself a new job.... working for a local engineer for 3 days a week lol they wanted full time but in the end were willing to take me at 3 days. Its great, loving the work and I'm getting plenty of time to do my thing I've started into the shed sorting alot of stuff I had stacked up so I've got some space.... currently working my way through old partially done projects Done a bit more testing on the Solar Panels, testing an insulation layer above the cans (sealing off the area under the glass) With the glass on my results are Ambient Temp Cloud/Sun Temp Gain 5-6C Dark cloud +5-6C Light cloud +6-7C Sun (not bright) +7C 7-9C Light cloud +7-8C Suny +10-12C Bright sun +15-20C The rag is in there to seal that side of the box, so I could test if having a insulation layer above the heating tubes was a gain. Again using blocks of steel over the tube ends so I have something to measure the temp of the air with my IR thermometer Interesting results.... yes it does make a difference, but not at the temps I want it to make a difference at.... My goal with these is to heat the shed when the temps are cold <15-16C.... from about +12-16C output, I start to get an average increase in temp but only a few degrees more than the open side. I imagine in summer on the bright hot days it would be a big difference Not really the results I was hoping for lol given the investment in time to make these, but given this is a set and forget option for heating and my workshop will be insulated I've continued on with them (and to clean up all the cans I've collected lol) Based off the testing I've decided not to seal the air above the tubes.... the work involved in cutting a piece of ply to seal (spacing isn't consistant one panel to the next due to glass size), over summer when temps hit mid to late thirtys with harsh sun I'm going to be trapping alot of heat in there, I suspect enough to damage the paint and glue. From a thermal (semi scientific point) the panel that is open will still generate the same BTU's of heat so if I leave them unsealed I should get the same energy of heat just at a lower heat Here are some finished panels And the last of my stockpile of cans, tubed up awaiting glass from my builder mates (from the next shower they remove to renovate😉) Yes I know they arn't pretty but they will be setup ontop of a storage container at the back of my section behind the shed well out of sight lol so the ugly smeared sealent that came from a half dry tube wont be on display I've gotten 5 panels done so far and I have enough tubes to make another two panels (when glass turns up) I'm working on the idea of 3 or 4 panels so I end up with >8m worth of panels 1700mm long.... I should have a nice warm shed to hang around in
  7. Damm! thats a bit of weight to throw around in the lathe..... nice work
  8. If this is a steering shaft then, low speed low movement even in its unhardened state the drill bit will outlast Stephen Lol From experiance it will be in the worst spot possible.... in my case under the bench with my scrap metal, floor sweepings and grinder dust.... now there is a caveat to this, it will only have gone here if you check/clean everywhere else first There is one other caveat to this, which you have applied... to buy or build a replacement part, the missing roller will now show up (most likely in a rather obvious spot that will leave you wondering how you didn't see it) most likely not long after you have gotten the item assembled Good read lol cheers
  9. Nothing exciting for this lot of creations.... I actually went in to finish the bead roller dies because my 10mm end mills had arrived lol that is the one thing I never got too Got in there with the nagging thought that my bike was due an oil change, so I'll do that first.... all good do the DR, then I thought about my trail bike and decided to do that too... this one sits a bit taller than the DR, the oil change was all good but when I decided to do some maintance the cheap chinese bike lifter ( from the surpisingly named "supercheap auto" ) it didn't lift high enough..... at this stage I seriously looked at this with the attitude of I can rebuild it better taller faster than before.... I had a loose plan even down to where I tart it up with some hammerforms and dimple die gussets lol.... then I had a strange thought, a sensable one lol I'm going to use this tool once or twice a yr..... why waste all that time and effort so While the paint was drying on this I decided to sort the parts trolley.... so I could put it away Cut the cage off the bottom (knocking it up the legs) then cut the small casters (that had deformed under the weight lol) and enough leg off to fit some new casters (supposedly 300kg total rating ) welded them on and added some tape hooks and another pen holder for a white pen at each end .... I cut part of the legs because this has a bench it sits under when not in use so it couldn't go any higher Then while I was waiting for the paint to dry on this one I made a Rake lol not really I just welded a handle to one..... I'm clearing up the area where the shed wil go (one day) and I'm raking up and burning the dry weeds from spraying but the rake handle had broken and I was sick of tripping over the bit that was left so this sorts that job lol now i have to get back into using it Oh and just in the forground of the trolley pic.... I ripped up another panell of plywood to make another solar panell for the shed (one day lol) After all this I was looking at my poor shed helper who had refused to go to the toilet on the grass out front of my workshop so I decided to take her home to use the lawn ...... maybe Sunday I finish the dies lol
  10. It all depends on how well the original slab was done, it was common here for people to build the garage with a dirt floor (structural part was the Nib wall) then later on mix and pour there own floor Based off this i'd recomend doing a foundation Nib wall around the old slab so the beams of the new shed have a reliable foundation.... oh and this will let you see how good the old concrete is, if its good enough hammer drill in some rebar to tie to the new foundation if you are going to glue the rebar into the old slab 60mm deep is good enough if you just let the cement glue it then..... bugger I can't remember what the spec was, think it was a 16mm drill and 6mm bar, but it was 120mm deep and just mush the slurry in with the rod
  11. Yes your dead right, and I have none that I can see, feel or hear.... for those that haven't done any turning, chatter or vibration will show up as one or more of the following.... you'll see a pattern on the fresh surface (sometimes you'll only see it if the light is right), you'll feel it through the handles of the lathe or the most common you'll hear it generally as a low pitch high ossolation drone lol trust me you can't miss it. As you'd expect as your tip wears your more prone to vibration as the resistance to cutting increases Now in my case the worst of my wear is breaks... you see this as a change in the cutting pattern (it will have this nice shinny matt finish, then it will noticably change to a rougher surface with ridges), you'll feel it as normally a single bounce of the tool (if your in manual feed and sometimes it'll catch a couple of times) Most notibly you will hear it as a "bang" or "crack" You can spot the difference visually on the tool tip (this is getting harder and harder for me to spot lol) Look at the bottom of the above pics at the tip closest... notice the tip has a "face" that runs almost to the bottom of the tip, the change in colour is an indicator, now look at the pic above at the same tip... it has a sharp edge that isn't sqaure. This tells me its a break (this matches to the incedent where I swung in to raised piece of the work as I was roughing off lol. Now if this was normal wear or chatter you get a "rounding" of the cutting edge and the colour change doesn't carry to the bottom of the tooth Landroversforever is right tho..... I know I'm going to be getting some vibration from the bearing (I knew this was going to be an issue when I decided to finish this tool) and to combat this I have that much preload on the bearing lol you'd cringe.... if it was in a wheel I don't think you'd get around the block before it destroyed itself.... but so far I can't see any harmonic patern on the cut surface Here is the two finished Bead Roller Dies and the small one on the end is the start of a male Press Die The vertical lines in the surface are due to cutting with the carbide tip being chipped.... the sharp pionts tend to gouge into the work.... for what I'm doing with these surface condition isn't a concern.... but the next job might be so I put the raduis cutter tool away with a new tip in it for next time The femal Die Roller Die (middle one) is only 28.8mm wide, I've done this so I can test it, I want to see if I can "buckle" the 30 x 3 flat into the gap and locate it that way.... I don't think its going to work but.. its worth a shot, If it doesn't work I'll cut a shoulder 3mm deep on the sides so its 30 wide to fit the flat bar I really wanted to try these out last night, but I needed to broach a keyway into them.... and I needed to build a broaching guide for them, all good easy enough to make one catch is I only had one 10mm endmill in my tooling and it was worn.... it got worse the only blank of steel I could find between 35-40mm (so I"d have a shoulder to catch) was 316 stainless.... I figured I'd give it a shot lol two pass's in (2mm deep) the resistance is getting to the piont I stop..... turn the flood cooling off and find a ridge of stainless that is being melted by the cutter and pushed infront of the cutter lol this is never going to make 14mm deep so next weekend..... bugger lol
  12. Lol a lot less than 8m wide, but at 20 weeks she is 20kg.... too be honest I think the 1.6m high fence will only hold her for a couple of months before she can jump it! . But I'm going to setup an invisible fence once I've got this gate done and hopefully that will train her to the boundery Right I did get the bits of the gates that I wanted done... done so got some machine time in on the lathe IT WORKS LOL !!! I did take a pic of the male die roller die as well but due to the crack in my cell phone lense and carp lighting in my shop the pic is too blury to be worth posting... that one I managed to finish cutting Now for what I've learned... small cuts lol there is some movement in the bearing (and I've over tightened the bearing to the point it has a heavy resistance) there is no chatter but if you feed too hard the tip can bite and move the bearing (you can see the results on the tip in the following pics), 0.2mm cut works about right and I can get nice long strings of swarf. I need more options for placement of the handle... if you look closely to the right hand side of that concave cut, there is a little shoulder on the right edge of the cut... as I swing to that side of the cut I'm swinging the handle in towards the chuck and I'd reached the point I wasn't willing to finish the cut.... I'll be able to get this by reversing the blank on the spindle so I can live with this one for a bit My biggest issue is this.... and I didn't clearance the tool enough particuarlly on the concave side of the tool (I still have another 6mm of depth to cut and I'm hitting the side of the work when I swing the tool to the side), on the convex (male die) I only just contacted on the last few pass's I thought I'd get away with pushing it lol the tip of the tool is what it cost me Given how easily the tips of these carbides are going and a worn out comment on the box that I think says "don't use on stainless" I'm guessing these tips might just be ones for alloy, the sticker with the code is long gone... I got them as part of an auction lot lol and I have no other tools that use them.... so I'll keep going on them lol So where I go from here... I'll "grind" a bit of clearance into the concave side of the tool so I can finish the female die roller (I'll tidy it up later on the mill, save me the lost time resetting the tool to the right radius) The male press die is a smaller (spinning) dia so I'll be able to cut that. That leaves me with the last problem and its a perl'er.... the female press die That sucker has been a real head scratcher hmmmm, the radius cutter wont cut it (lol double entendre) so I've thought about laminates, reinforced heat bent tube thats cut to leave the shape etc but I think the option I'm going to go with is mount a couple of bits of 20mm plate to the face plate and using x/y coordinates rough out the curve then mount the die grinder in the tool head and tidy up to match a template..... then slap the two together and pin and weld. I feel this gives me the best option to modify the die later by carving out ramps at either end to guide the stainless "channel" (created by the die rollers) as the male press die pushes down in the center ..... will probably make more sense when I start building it lol Right time to go mount some gates
  13. Not much of an update as I've been busy cleaning up the workshop (one job was all the cans for the solar panels 🙄) and working at home to make the boundry german sheperd proof But I haven't forgotten this lol I've finished the spindle and nut.... I've gone for a pin wrench/C spanner on the nut as my hand will be passing under there when I swing the radius cutter.... that leaves me a nice smooth profile so I don't get caught on it as it spins For those that care the thread is a 1.5mm because its nice and fine which will give me plenty of torque to lock the blanks..... (it was what I'd last cut on the lathe and I couldn't be bothered finding the gears to change pitch lol) I'm heading back in to the shed today..... to build a set of 8m wide gates so we can close off a section of the property for the dog. So hopefully I'll get the chance to try this all out "fingers X'd icon"
  14. A wee update on this project (the fairlead) I've changed the curve dia to 30mm (for the "channel" form), been thinking a fair bit about the forming of this.... due to the complex shape, there is going to be alot of movement in the metal (shrinking and stretching) and I don't think it will be possible in one process.... I think it would kink and fold. Reducing the curve dia down to 30mm will reduce the amount of "side wall" that I have to shrink in the press die So I'm thinking I form a channel first with the bead roller, possibly using 2 different female dies and multile pass's. I think there is potential for the flat bar to "walk" to the sides of the round die in the bead roller, this would put a curve into it instead of forming the channel, so if I machine some shoulders onto the female die.... then all I do is apply pressure (up or down into the die) and the shoulders keep me aligned. Catch is as I form the flat into a channel it gets narrower and I might need another die with narrower shoulders After I've got it formed into the channel I'll cut it into the short lengths to be pressed in the press into the final curve..... there is going to be alot of shrinking in the sides of the channel, but I think if build the female die correctly I can form it in one hit I'm almost ready to start using the radius cutter, I've I've cut out the basic shapes for a set of Bead roller dies and the male press die (the female one is going to take abit more work probably building it laminate style) The small one at this end is going to be the male die I've still got to finish the spindle to machine these on.... I cut it down to size (almost) yesterday with a worn carbide tip, this generated enough heat I had to leave it to cool down and shrink before the final cut and thread cutting
  15. There are two issues with this...... you actually planed for this, by having a needle and thread in your truck.... if this was something else like a fishhook and line, I don't want to know lol Next its a needle.... I don't know what it is about them.... they are just Eeeerrr Nope lol grinders, chainsaws, files, slashers, hell I've even managed to hook a hammer into me.... not a problem, pull it out tape it up and carry on lol a needle Oooooo.... you know the recliners that they put you in to give blood.... I warned the girl I need a bed, she told me to harden up lol.... I "flowed" out the bottom of it to the floor when I fainted
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy