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De Ranged

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De Ranged last won the day on November 12 2016

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About De Ranged

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Napier, New Zealand

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  • Interests
    LOL hmmm I'm a true petrol head if it has a motor its cool and it means I can improve it

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  1. Got some more stainless wire.... catch is no one in town had any in 0.8mm on a 15kg roll lol so I'm going to have to make a reel holder to run spool gun rolls in my mig But anyway I got the front axle out from under the chassis... I need it gone so I can get a set of axle stands under there to work out the rear leaf springs I'm close enough to final weight that I'm able to add weights in place of the missing components and passangers, I've added a tempory X member to clamp a leaf spring too and its just a case of adding leaves to it till I get it to take the weight at the right piont
  2. Formed the rear from another hammer form Welded it all together and ground back the welds Now i just need to sort how I'm going to mount things, the bezel to the rest of the body the light into the body and then the body to the bike
  3. lol and there is another project for the shed.... the shed I haven't built yet Just a thought, I run a wash down table where I use desiel/petrol mix (got over a 100L from a mate who mistakenly filled his camper with petrol lol) its very stale now but still works a treat I've setup so it drains back into a 20L drum, my pickup pump syphons off at about the half full mark, this leaves the bottom half of the drum as a sediment trap to let the carp settle, before I start using it I pop the lid and use a sheet metal scrapper to the bottom of the tub and dig out the dirt
  4. Had a fun day in the shop..... Decided to do a bit more on the scooter.... since I had the fake front forks done I decided to have a go at the headlight started with the front hammer form.... not as simple as it first looks lol because the sides are so close the wood wouldn't have the strenth to form the steel so had to do it in stages First form the inside shoulders so a pair of bucks.... with good shoulders to clamp Next, the outside of the hammer form..... shaped up the forming buck, because the edges were so weak I fitted the centers back in With them in I made a new clamping buck and formed this A few hrs later using asorted offcuts of pipe and my high crown pannel hammer on the wood bench I've got a body almost there.... Got one more hammer form to make a dome for the rear and then sort some sort of mounting setup and the bezal mount for the front hamerform
  5. And another update I need to get the pics and story up but the plastic fairleads was a bust i'm going stainless pipe now lol
  6. A wee update...... Stage one of the tool station, made from cast offs and scrap that has come off a worksite..... that base weighs in at around 80kgs lol The red box is just there for moving (I'm moving sites), the blue boxes are Total Tools brand tool boxes, HRD brand roll cabs $399 each
  7. Lol so true its why I do what i do, just sometimes you look back and think..... "I'd be so much further if I didn't......" lol Here's another, I've got a few more yet..... i'll try and get them up before I head home but I've got a large job list for work
  8. And a close up of a waste of time...... but I couldn't help myself lol
  9. We've just had our (New Zealands) first U4 race..... was very well recieved heard from some of my Aussy mates they are keen to come for the next one... will wait n see how that pans out Been sitting on a few extra pic's for this build... my laptop bit the dust and then I've had a carp run at work lol good enough one night was a 10:30 finish followed by a 3 am start lol.... but I've got a bit of time today so here is the rear bumper.... tried to make it look landy but lol I don't think I've managed this one
  10. lol no its a performance aid its there to help cornering in the bendy stuff It does lol especially with me on it I need to update my threads on here thanks for reminding me lol tomorrow night
  11. My apologies to all those looking for the broken pics, with photobucket not worth using I linked to my FB didn't realize they change url's on pics to stop this.... I've now sorted another option so I'll see if Imgur is a better option Been a bit distracted trying to sort a number of things so I'm able to start back up with the custom stuff in the new yr, It might even include an Ultra4 chassis build Anyway since I've been home and in the shed I had to do some more on the Toy... my home cash hadn't come through, international transfers sometimes take a while so I couldn't get the alloy for the tank but I had some sheet for the panels so started them I'm currently building the rear bumper and the rest of the panels hopefully get this finished soon
  12. I used to do alot of driveways and footpaths in a previous part of my job and where we were doing it we used to get heavy rain often, some of these might help Get accelerator or hardener (depends on where you are as to what they call it) it accelerates the curing process.... this will help cure it before the rain, but you have to be certain your up to the job if you do this Over fill the slab slightly, lol this is the worst issue we had, the amount of panels that would be 5+mm lower than they should have been When your finished fill a couple of wheel barrows so you have some extra to grab off to fill hollows, spay them with water and throw a tarp over and every 5 min's turn it over with a shovel when you've finished tamping it down, get a plank and "bounce" the plank on it to bring up a good amount of slurry the more you bring up the better, this was the next issue we used to have, not enough slurry ontop before the bull float so the float hooks the aggregate and have to waste time on the float, if its good I'll go over it 3 times with the float.... start in my finishing direction (side that has the best reach), I then go at 90 degrees (fill in any hollows, hope you looked after the concrete in the wheel barrows lol, if you have brought up enough slurry you can float the extra over these patch pieces so it levels nicely), have a breather or a drink and then float it again in the finish direction with a light hand drawing only 20min - half an hr come back and edge, if you see something wrong at this stage don't try and fix it you'll make a bigger mess, your better to polish it out in a couple of days time with a grinder I like Arjans suggestion for the recovery eye, I'll add that too mine when I get to it lol Water is good as Arjan has said problem is when its at the stage where its sort of warm,( the chemical process is happening) the water drops will separate the cement from the aggregate, I had access to Hydro excavators with high pressure pulsing lances so I used to use these to mist on water if we got strong sun and it was drying the top too fast I used the hardener, because we were doing patch panels (some of them up too 10 x 8m) they were part of a drive or footpaths so the rain would flow down them and we had appearance conditions we had to meet (like for like) so rain splatter marks like smallfry's or worse washout marks from flowing water were a fail and often ment rework, if its warm and there is no risk of rain you can get a retarder put in that will slow down the curing and give you more time to work the concrete Good luck
  13. I like the fact I can mod before I build so hopefully less time staring at projects trying to work it out lol at work its about validation and repeatably and managers need pretty pictures with lots of irrelevant detail so they can picture what I'm doing lol So finished the Dies and pushed a couple of test pieces in the ARB press I was a bit out lol I thought because of the large amount of panel I'm moving up that there would be more spring back the alloy near on matched the die the steel has about 10% less height on the main form, the counter angle for the flat on top again the alloy near on matched but I'm only a couple of degrees out for the steel The warpage I was expecting thats a big shape to just force into a panel in one go.... I'll just pre-stretch the panels before I force the die now I have the test measurements I can CAD out the die and I should be able to machine it to provide what I want On a side note I was surprised I cut the alloy Once I was at the stage of that I needed the computer again I had some time so sorted a bit more on the shop scooter, here's the parts I got Straightened the frame, had a slight bend in the frame just below the head tube. The triple clamp matches the shocks so I'll machine up a couple of tubes to slide in over to make it look like they are full length forks. The tank is getting gutted so I can fit the dash from the scooter in it. I've gutted the motor and taken a grinder to its base as well as the back so it would fit lower and in around the oil tank. The only thing I haven't worked out yet is what I'm going to do for paint.... I don't want a flash finished look I'd love to keep the patina of the tank and match it round the bike but thats way beyond my painting skills
  14. Cool project, Don't stress the number of projects.... simple rule is does it fit in the shed ? yes.... all good then lol
  15. As part of my work I'm modeling up all the mods I make to equipment, getting to see what is in my head is cool and to mod it before I build instead of "Oh this would have been better"lol But I have to say the biggest joy is after all the swearing CAD does what I want it too lol.... slowly teaching myself how to use the program Was my first day in the workshop was driving in thinking there is bugger all traffic for a Friday..... wasn't till I'd gotten into the shop and I'm working out the steel I need (and was planing on going to buy) that the radio starts talking about the long weekend lol public holiday.... roster work you loose track of things lol so decided to see what off cuts I had in the shop 160mm is close to 120mm dia lol not much material to remove to get it down to size And this is what I got for all of that Started machining and the 20 degrees didn't look good enough to bend it to 15 degrees so I changed to 30 degrees and I've cut a 10 degree back angle on the flat to over bend it, I'm going to make both halves of the die thicker than normal so I can chuck them back in the lathe and "tweek" them This is going to be the male, so I'm going to press in a 15mm dia centering rod from an offcut of 4140 just because I have it A little tip for those that have considered making there own dimple dies.... don't stress about material lol all this hype on the net about using special tooling steels etc I have a set of of die's I made somewhere around 10yrs ago, 50mm dimple, 45 degrees and a 12.5mm rib... I made them to a 3mm clearance and I've used this on up to 5mm plate in my 60ton press and if you look at my buggies battery box it still presses a nice crisp dimple in 1mm sheet.... and it is made from free machining bar stock Oh and remember how I said this thread might get a bit eclectic.... a little summer project a shop scooter lol It was seriously rough lol but we suspect it was setup for scooter racing.... so I'm going to give it some style.... "Cafe racer wrong" style lol having a drink with a mate yesterday bouncing ideas, I'm getting some parts from his junk pile, a dead motor to fit in, a rotten tank and a triple clamp and handle bar that might even line up on the forks..... the idea is something that looks so fake its funny lol More to come
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