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De Ranged

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De Ranged last won the day on November 12 2016

De Ranged had the most liked content!

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About De Ranged

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    Old Hand

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    Napier, New Zealand

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    LOL hmmm I'm a true petrol head if it has a motor its cool and it means I can improve it

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  1. De Ranged

    Introducing "Lil' Green"

    Mate the fault wasn't yours it was mine that is why I apologized..... I am not that good at the written word if it wasn't for the spell check and grammar check there are times I would struggle with my job lol (I work with alot of French and the odd Italian and some days its just hilarious where we end up) but in my defense Albert Einstein couldn't spell either, so I kinda like to think there is hope for me........
  2. De Ranged

    Introducing "Lil' Green"

    That makes sense, I didn't get the reference to the slug sorry lol
  3. De Ranged

    Introducing "Lil' Green"

    I like the fitment on those A pillars.... very nice Whats the deal with the join down the bottom.... I'm assuming you put a piece of bar in there and some bigger bolts thats way too light and no lateral support ? Of all the motorsports I'm involved with the lightest bolt on mounting rules (the rules I'm building the buggy too) is a min of 4 x M10 8.8 bolts on a plate bearing area of 100 sq cm (100mm x100mm) or a rubber barral style mount with a single M12 8.8 bolt
  4. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Lol I'm the one who builds there rides for a reason...... Thanks mate, I've got a reply on a Landy spare parts group from up Gisborne, I'll see how it works out
  5. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    The back one is the easy one lol the only tricky bit is the amount of cut out for the wheel in guard..... the front dovetail now that I can't visualize, I really don't know if I can make it work lol that will be a wait n see Got a bit more time in the shed, was on a roll, finished cutting and straightening the Drivers B pillar and Plated for the cage attachment, got the capping sorted for the drives side of the tub, made up a set of hammer form dies to make a folded edge on the inside of the capping - cage plate, cut and formed these plates, bent up the two corner cage supports, got one of them mounted...... all in three hrs was looking at the getting the rear of the cage all done in the next 4.... and a couple of mates rock in with drinks lol so here is where I stopped This thing is going to look sick when its done at the moment sitting on the jack stands with the 36" tyre 2" off the ground if you look across the top of the tub at my 109" in the background the tub on this is 3" lower and the 109" is sitting in a lower section of the floor so all up this is going to sit 7"s lower with bigger wheels and a bucket load more ground clearance.... I'm happy lol
  6. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Just about got all the pillars sorted lol Got the rear "chassis" tubes in and the tub capping in place.... I would really have liked to bolt this on so I could have galv'd it but bolting it just wouldn't give it the same strength.... there won't be any barwork for the rear guards that capping is it so.... The suspension will come up through this, and yes the tow hook mount is double shear, the Tube to Chassis mounts are just plug welds at this stage till I can remove the red jig tube that is holding the cab sides in place Here is a couple of shots showing the rear dove tail lines The tub will be mostly just skins as the radiator is going out back and I'm still uncertain where I'm putting the fuel tank (or tanks) but I'm working on the idea of a tailgate that drops down to access a locker in the back for tool storage.... if I ever carry a spare I'll make a swing out mount to to stand it up above the tow hook I've got another night at the shed before I'm off again so I'm hoping to get all the major bar work for the rear of the cab done
  7. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Thank you for that, yes that 54mm dia is a bit of a bugger to mount, but I have a lathe and turning out a dia is easy.... going to have to turn a alloy heat sink to tolerance fit inside the mounts for welding so I can limit weld warp-age All good copy as much as you want, if you want to copy the whole suspension I can post up all the details the reversed AS curve is due to the short top links as well Haven't had much to post up.... things haven't been working out lol This will give you an idea of how many times I've adjusted this...... I've checked repeat-ability with the digital level on several occasions and always within 0.1 degrees so I kept thinking I'm stuffing up and getting caught by the angle of the floor, figured the angle of the floor was putting my eye-o-meter out because things didn't look square so kept checking twice sometimes 3 times before I weld and things still didn't line up..... wasted days cutting, jigging measuring and welding struggling the lid backon and still out..... I'm glad I made the call to run with a standard landy cab because if i'd modified it I wouldn't have picked up the problem and here it is This little bugger has had me running in circles..... I'd tested it to see if its working take a reading, take it off move it around even shake it and then put it back and check always within 0.1 degree it wasn't till I decided to check opposite corners of the cab that I caught it out.... effectively if I was to turn it around as it sits so the screen faces forward it would be 1.5 degrees out flip it so the top of the screen is resting on the surface and its 2-3 degrees out! I've measured the top and bottom surfaces and they are parallel so this is an issue with the digital sensor probably been like this since new...... so back to a trusty old rafters square, tape and Pythagoras Oh and just a call out to any of the kiwis on site I'm after another series windscreen lol
  8. De Ranged

    Introducing "Lil' Green"

    Sorry Arjan I just love that series look..... it has caused me a headache with the 109 fitting that straight 6 diesel and its going to be a headache to get looking right as a dovetailed shortened look on the toy but lol its just too iconic to not have
  9. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Didn't achieve as much as I wanted to on this trip home lol I did get the adapter manifold all done.....done old school traced the flanges onto steel oxy cut them then die ground the carp out of it to fit the tubes, machining it flush was a bit of a delicate situation, I couldn't get a good reliable clamp in my tilt machine vice so it was a very light cuts and watching the whole thing for movement Just got to make up a new coolant outlet and a fuel rail cross pipe for the injectors and this problem is solved The only bit I'm not happy about is to keep the short, (the longer the adapter manifold the more it will change the torque curve on the motor) it ment that I wasn't able to tuck the manifold down as tight to the motor as I would have liked..... this means there is going to be a bump in the engine cover that will come right up into the windscreen lol be interesting to see what it looks like when its done I need a little help was planing on putting some rose joints in the suspension..... I picked up a couple of these joints from a Range Rover a few yrs back with the intent of trying them out and have lost the file with the part number My Landy mate can supply me with something close catch is its wider 65mm vs 55mm on mine and mounting section is wider as well (His part number is RBK500220 ) There was a thread on here about using them over normal Rose (Heim) joints but I've been unable to find it..... if I can't find a part number for them I'll toss them back into the parts storage untill I get a job where replacement isn't going to be an issue and get a heap of the wider ones
  10. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Had a good day in the shed..... Finished the adapter manifold to turn the intake manifold around.... got it painted before I came home. Needed this done so I could set the height of the windscreen as I've made the call to shrink the whole cab lol its the whole competition thing So to this end I've been doing alot of measuring, going to make the cab 1560mm wide at the base and I'm going to put the tapper back in the top section lol it just didn't look right..... when I bolt on the adapter manifold so I can lower the windscreen down to the intake manifold.... this will be about 75-100mm lower I'm taking this out of the section where the vents are below the windscreen Shrinking the cab is going to make this look a lot american as I'm planing on running a widened front axle I make a while back with the 35x10.5 Silverstones outside wheel to outside wheel it will be 1855mm wide (club and most of the competitions) With the 36.5x12.5 Simex's on 10" wide rims it will be 1985mm wide...... so there will be alot of tyre sticking outside lol Hopefully more tomorrow
  11. Without sounding silly about it, it is as good a place as any other to learn.... it is where I started learning, and still learn, Long travel beam axle suspension has been by passed by main stream suspension makers and major sports groups so there are no modern books on the subject, (most of my books are based on stuff from the single seat home built sports car of the 50-60's) there isn't even a universally recognized pattern for people to follow........ over the 15+ yrs I've been playing with beam axle suspension I've watched and participated in changing scores (AS/AD, roll center heights, instant center heights etc)...... Lol and my latest build challenges past and current thinking on the subject Forums are the only place you can easily get up to date information on the subject...... Given the reference to tomcats I'm assuming this is to have some performance .... then in my opinion this is a better option than HD lifted springs, move the seats on the chassis down and stay with the original soft spring..... depending on how hard you plan on hitting things and how big you want to go lol As for the engineering side of things notice how the spring seat has sides that go down the sides to tie to the bottom of the chassis.... I would wrap them around the bottom and on the top weld some plate to the top of the seat and carry it to the top of the chassis..... you want to transfer your load from the spring to both top and bottom of the chassis so there is no point load on the chassis wall that can tear out or punch in due to the twisting load applied to the spring seat Forget about alloy for a chassis lol there is a very good reason why you don't see it in offroad chassis's it is due to the fatigue issue of alloy.... basically every little bump no matter how small is counted towards the lifespan of the material before it cracks, steel on the other hand has a threshold bumps under this don't count this makes steel last As for dimple die'd chassis rails lol you know how much work is in that! and the gain isn't really lol Now there are areas you won't do this too, areas like around the spring seats, suspension mounts, engine mounts etc so at best you are taking a couple of kg out of it (a better weight saving would be to not galv it lol) so at the start of the race your 2 kg lighter but every time you hit the mud this drops and after a while you have that much mud in there you are carrying more than you saved. I used to be involved in speedway (dirt flat track) the top guys used to spray baby oil on the undersides of there cars to stop the clay sticking to help them win.... if your going to go to the trouble of fabricating a whole chassis space frame it a way better gain than an old ladder chassis
  12. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Finally back in my shop Anyway something caught my eye as not right.... where I'm building this is on an uneven piece of floor so the truck is on an angle and things just look wrong alot due to this lol well turns out this wasn't the case.... my cab width is 30mm narrower than a standard cab lol the windscreen was pushing the top of the sides out After contemplating things for a bit I decided to not make the cab wider.... I don't like compromise and the narrower the cab the better, even if it is only 30mm, I was planning on making a new rear cabin piece to lighten it up so modifying the windscreen was the only issue and its simple enough..... I did decide to keep the roof tho, as making a new lighter roof is way into the "why the F did I think this was a good idea...." zone lol so I'm taking some of the taper out of the top half of the cab 15mm out of each side, I'll keep the laminated glass as anyone who has gone poly will tell you glass is wonderfull when there is mud.... no scratches Not the easiest stuff to weld galv tin foil lol you need more heat to burn the galv off where you can't grind it off but the thickness of the material doesn't like the heat its all done and got a coat of cold galv on it now will cut the windscreens back tomorrow and glue them in. Had a bit more time so started sorting the rear tub (well what is going to hang there to look like one lol) once this is done you'll understand why I refer to Wills build as more of a tank style
  13. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Lol trust me compared to how a trials buggy is built that thing is a tank.... I'll use probably about half the amount of tube..... you'll laugh at this but I'm seriously considering building the windscreen, cab and roof out of alloy...... I want them because club runs we run in alot of thick forest This is an open good track on a sunny day lol you really want a cab on a bad day when everything is dripping! I might have just complicated things lol I just bought 4 of these
  14. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    Thank you for that...... I'll read my way through that at night when I'm back at work, just glancing through there is alot of inspiration there...... he's gone more of a tank style than me, I want light weight, it does mean my body front and back is going to be softer but I'm hoping with the dovetails this will help protect it some
  15. De Ranged

    kiwi series build

    I ran a bit of search for that name..... managed to find one pic on pin interest..... that looks like a very cool build you wouldn't have a link for the original build ?
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