mmgemini
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Posts posted by mmgemini
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Well the battery on my Defender has been dieing slowly. This week I decided to stop the charging by charger nd buy new. I ordered and collected, a nice Bosch, now my suprise was seeing that the old one was also a Bosch. Mind you they dont last long nowadays. The one I took off has only been on eight years
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15 minutes ago, nickwilliams said:
I guess this follows the logic of undoing the negative side battery terminal first to eliminate the possibility of sparking if the spanner touches any bodywork while undoing the positive side. This isn't really necessary if isolation is achieved by a switch, but it can make the wiring simpler and reduce the chances of a high current short to ground in some circumstances.
Yes you can put a battery cut off on the neg side but that will only work wheen the engine is off, unlike the FIA switch which will kill the enging when it's running
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If you don't wire an FIA battery master switch to live it doesn't work
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I had a 200Tdi that had a tik when cold. Eventually the engine was stripped for sared, The head was sold then the block, we never found any marks or any reason for the knock
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There's more than the grease and camshaft that bothers me.
two gaskets are charged fo. Where are the two.
The other thing that bothers me, Age of Defender and mileage would be nice to have.
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2 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
Camshaft bearing ?
They sound like crooks.
Mo
what do you mean Sounds like, a very diplomatic comment
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Grease HOW MUCH. For three finger fulls ?
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1 hour ago, L19MUD said:
I have a Clarke/Machine mart one and it is brilliant!
I'll second that
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I always use thread lock on the calliper bolts of my 300TDi Defender. I check the state of the bolt heads, run a die nut down the bolt and a tap down the hole. The thread lock is to stop the bolts rusting in. I have had the front calliper bolts come loose even with thread lock. I use Loctite. The 12x 1.25 mm thread size is a demand from europe
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8 minutes ago, sean f said:
To envision what is happening with a triangular shock arrangement take and elastic band and stretch it between two finger and your thumb on one hand, the two fingers are the chassis mounts so keep them the same distance apart and move your thumb up and down. The elastic in the sections going round your thumb will change length just as shock absorbers do, they will also change angle at the top and bottom (chassis and axle) on a vehicle this will be taken up by the shock bushes.
Hope that makes sense, I have always found it easier to envision things or explain them with an actual example.
The trouble with an elastick band it is flexable. The shockers are not. I do have the brackets for the axle and the crowfoot mounts for the chssis. Who want's to try them
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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Why only one? They can both telescope?
I suggest you mke a model of what we are discussing. In the siuation neither can move more than a couple of mm upards onle in a rotational direction
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1 minute ago, Bowie69 said:
Why would it rotate?
Because only one damper would be ably to move upards
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15 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Sorry, but it just wouldn't.
Imagine a rubber band around two nails, put your finger in the rubber band and pull down, the elastic band stretches (like a damper would) on either side as the 'axle' (your finger) moves.
If I remember right, the early RRC arrangement was to curb axle tramp.
Then the axle would turn on its axis as th shocks moved ut not up and down
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3 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
I've been wondering about this.
Irrespective of everything else you can't escape the fact that adding extra dampers will add some resistance to axle movement, otherwise what's the point of the dampers. What I haven't figured out is whether there's any difference between a single forwards, dual forwards or triangular configurations.
The triangular would make it solid
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2 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Not that it really adds anything here but our 110 has the shocks arranged one front and one back on the rear (ala early rangie). As far as I can tell this was only done on very early 110's and rangie's. I'm guessing the factory had issues with the rear mounted shock and fitted them both front on later vehicles.
Mike
Mike you will find that the latest 300Tdi chassis still had the chassis drilled to fit one shock forward and the other rearword although the shocks are both the same way on the axle. Is that I wonder a left over from the Range Rover
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Well Ed quite a few years ago as I was preparing my Defender 110 SW I was advised to fir double rear dampers, I even got the extra axle brackets todo the job. THEN I realised that fitting one in front and one behind wouldn't allow any movement, the only flex would be in the shocker mounting rubbers. I also at the time drove a TD4 defender fitted with shocks fitted tht way and it was really hard on the road.
SO. I bought a new set of ordinary rear shocks from Land Rover. Never had any problems
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Just one in front and one behind. How ? might I ask were they actually fitted
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TRE boots are still listed by Land Rover for the Series vehicles
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I have used a K&N filter for years. I don't worry about the graph that was shewn for a K&N against a paper filter as I'm not worried about 5%
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You need to fit a proper temperature gauge thatreads in Degrees C and not apples aand pears
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Do what I did when I had a new cross memberfitted. Run the loom outside the chassis
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Snagger I still have the wiring diagram for the module Tim made
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Is it possible to fit a second battery for other electrics ?
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Two things here.
I have always understood that the registration number on the V5 belongs to the chassis. So as long as the chassis is sold with the V5 for that chassis no problem
the second one, What happened to Gresh over the chassis change of his yellow 110 ?
Low Range Gear Stick Stiff & No Diff Lock Light!?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
With not using my Hi low gear lever mine woulg become stiff, so off with the tunnel and plenty of WD 40. Check also that the light switch is free and the connection clean. I suppose I had better check to see if mine still works