mmgemini
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Posts posted by mmgemini
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1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said:
Pay someone else.
I've broken 2, taking my time and being careful using new seals and screens.
Mo
Wxactlt Mo. I hated fitting Ford D series screens
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Wen I worked at Sunblest years Our workshop was for three diesel vans. Thetr was a proper under floor extraction setup with a thick heavy rubber pipe for each bay. However there was also roof fands which also extracted the fumes and much easier to use. Those roof fans came into their own on a very hot day. We would water the parking bay outside open the doos and switch the fans on for a cool workshop
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PROXXON
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Next time you go to a Land Rover dealership to buy spares. Look at the country it's made in. Not many made in the UK
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Probably prefer Land Rover parts being made in the UK at a guess.... Why ship it half the way round the world when we have the expertise here?
What Land Rover parts are made in UK
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2 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
That's all right then. If the defender departs, you know what you must do.
What worries me is the Defender could depart second
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3 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
All the more reason.
Which would you prefer to arrive at the pearly gates in? A Toyota Yaris, or an Ineos defender?
That is, if you can't cope with a series.
Well you see I have a carbon neutral Defender but if I had to change it would be the Ineos
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Yes true but comon sence died a long time ago
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10 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
The more I see of it, the more I like. I agree wholeheartedly with Deep. If I had the money, I'd have one. For me, it works.
Me too however at my age a new car is not a sensable thing
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I do like the shepherds hut and the use of a drawing board instead of a computer
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1 hour ago, Mean Green said:
Thanks for all the replies - it is a very late 1993 with disc brakes, so part number FTC3375. Which is M12x35x1.25 - so i need to source an M12 x1.25 tap.
Any good tool shop should be able to sell you one
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The thread if fine it 12mm x 1.25mm
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Well, anybody bought ordered one ??
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18 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Yes, heavy, but an option. I got used to the restriction in vision, but i was running a series with 205 r 16 tyres.
Exposure to UV needs to be considered, so a cover helps.
A "swing away" carrier on the rear door makes sense.
So is lifting it on to a rear door carrier. There is an easy way for that tho. I have a race yacht block and tackle to lift mine up there Oh yes I carry one on the bonnet as well. If you do use a bonnet mount, Mount the spare with the nave to the bonnet, useful space there
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5 hours ago, jeffrey taylor said:
mmgemini ,checked mounting nuts ,every thing looks o.k.
thanks, Jethro .
Did you check for very fine almost un noticable cracks in the servo around those mountings . You may need a very bright light
to see them
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Good advice there. Now when replacing the calliper bolts. Get a tap and re tap the mounting holes. Make sure when using new bolts that there is some thread lock on the threads
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also check the servo mounting nuts.Where the servo bolts to the master cylinder. The 110 servo is known for splitting there
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4 hours ago, Mutley said:
Well i slackened off the grease nipple, moved the ball joint around and the result is still the same sadly!?!....
I fear HoSS could well be right in that the spring pressure combined with the upper and lower cups makes for a good seal and therefore renders this a futile exercise!?!....
The theory was good but the actual practicality would appear not so? Yet i can't help feeling this should be achievable in some way???
I don't think having more grease on there is a waste of time
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15 hours ago, Mutley said:
@mmgemini why would it make a difference if the grease nipple is screwed in to far, surely it makes no never mind if it's two thirds in or all the way in??? Can you explain your reasoning please as i is a bit dim at times and it's not protruding through the other side to foul on anything, virtually flush as i recall?
Cheers Andy
I was wondering if the grease nipply was sitting tight on the ball and A stopping the grease getting right through B tending to sit on the ball
and tighten the ball. Just back the grease nipple off a turn and see what happens
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Your idea is sound,however it looks to me that the grease nipple is too far through the base plate, Put a washer under the grease nipple head and see what happens HTH
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NEVER reuse a timing belt. even a new belt that has been fitted, taken off, then refitted
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How about you make and bend both the inner and outer pieces then join them with a "U" tube pop rivited into place.Alaralite is good uesed on alluminiun
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Have you tried Girling or Lockheed or even Luca
Radiator fan catalogue
in International Forum
Posted
The same here