mmgemini
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Posts posted by mmgemini
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What abouth the South African game vehicles
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Nobody commenting on the electric Defenders that Land Rover make themselves,
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Hi Jeff <number removed> . Yes we are fine and not murdered each other yet. Age is no help it takes ages now to do anything. Yep I'm 82 in June
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Nothing. Well I did try to sort the load bay lights in my Defender, so far after four weeks the new lights are there. New wiring in headlinind and the back vertical cover thing still hanging down.
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4 hours ago, Snagger said:
People claiming live beam axles drive badly are either driving badly maintained vehicles or are incompetent. They don’t drive like sports cars, but they certainly aren’t a struggle.
You mean you have never driven a beam axled car like a 1930's Morris Minor
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On 4/28/2020 at 10:31 AM, western said:
200Tdi oil pressure switch PRC6387
so you don't have to strain yourself BUT make sure you are sat down when you see the price---- Genuine LR switch https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/89829/0/oil_pressure_engine_switch___2_25l___2_5l_4_cylinder_petrol___diesel___200___300_tdi___2_5l_vm__defender___range_rover_classic
HOW MUCH. The last one I bought was a fiver
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Not that well. I haven't worked on my Defender for some time as at my age I have problems doing the job now. SO The interior lights in the loadbay are not working correctly. A simple job LOL. I found two relacements in my spares box. Took them out but they still don't work. I need work light to check fuses. That needed charging so job stopped off until tomorrow. To cap it all I've managed to knock one of my small tool boxes onto the floor, looks like quarter inch drive sockets are all over.
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2 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
Wouldn't even know of a truck wash place locally. It's like £12-15 on ebay.
Any truck garage will wash trucks
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Plastic jerry cans are free from a lot of truck wash places. You don't think I paid for my plastic do you.
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I forgor to say yesterday. I made my battery box from 1mm aluminium
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Right let's see what I can remember. The first thing is the battery as fitted just about sits on the chassis.
I didn't remove the seatbox but cut it out with an angle grinder, make sure you miss the chassis.
There's rivets all over the box I drilled them out.
My box is made in a number of peices.The firsr peice is popped to the seatbox down to the chassis and bent for a battery to sit on.
IIRC I bent the top of that peice towards the pass door to give more width. which I don't thik was really needed.
So a bend at the top for the rivits then down towards the chassis and then bent over the chassis.
The outside of whats left of the battery was removed by removing the screws that hold the seat box down the pushing the bit out with a bolster chisel. That new peice was bent to fit to seat box folded down and to be held in place by the searbox screws. Now you have the peice held in place at the seatbox, Bend that so you make the floor and attatch that to the other bits of the box. Front and rear bits can now be made and fitted.
It's at least 12 years since I did this, Ask if you'd like more.
Have you don a search on here to see if there is anything
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Let's see if I can help' I did my battery box many years ago. No welding just pop rivits. IIR there was two places for the build. Land Rover Addicts now defunct and Difflock.com. Try Difflock.com and if you have no joy I will try and post how I did it. As an aside I saw a lovely mod to the battery box in Namibia where the driver had cut the seatbox side and fitted a drop down panel for the fuse box. I wish I had seen that befor I did mine
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The easiest way to find out what the wires do http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Lucaswirecode.htm
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Ohh a very long time since I did both the front and back.As my memory now goes back very little I'll see what I remember. I used olde plastic drums. I made a template to fit the back of the front wheel arch, One piece of plastin screwed by the original holes to the back of the arch. The mudflaf brackets binned then the plastic lenghtened to replace the mud flap. A new mudflap bracket made
The rear As I have side lockers in my 300Tdi I only needed to make aome aluminium bits to fill the space below the lockers, then plastic sheet from drums to make the mud flaps.
The front of the rear arches. As you know on the station wagon there is a cross member in front of the rear wheel. The crossmember gets covered in mud and crud which helps rot the cross member,So drill out the pop rivits and fit a piece of plastic to cover the crossmember. The plastic can be screwed in place
If you can understand this ?????
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Something I do not use or have, The two door mirrors are fine for me
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Head dowels just incae the old ones dont come out in one peice
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Not all cars fitted with disc brakes had aservo fitted. My Renauly R8 had disc brakes all roung no servo it also had a single line brake master cylinder. The size of the master cylinder is more important
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3 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:
I believe, it is self explaining, why the newer system is a lot more stable. Really fixed inner rings of the bearing are important. Every engineer will tell you that.
But it is kind of philosophy, which sort of bearings you use. Since I prefer to change bearings and not to adjust them, it is the better system for me. My believe is, that bearings, which need adjustment are almost gone. You would never do that in your gearbox. There is always a spacer and the inner rings are fixed. They turn a lot more, than wheel bearings do.
4 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:😇
As I told, it is nice to discuss philosophies but you never really can say, which one is better. Most of people reject the TD5 system, because the believe always to need a new spacer. Thats wrong.
NO I do not. I reject it because of the unnecessary tools. Micr
ometer and Dti for two
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5 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:
Mess with different spacers is only the first time. I always bought the biggest one and grinded it down on sand paper. I had to measure it exactly to avoid unparallel surfaces. Repair in the field remains still the same. I tried the TD5 system with TD5 nut and lock washer. I found out, that the lock washer is too soft. It will get squeezed and the bearing becomes loose.
I use now the TD5 System with dented nut and have spare nuts and Bearings with me.
So you cant tell me the mealage you do on bearings. Like reb78 I have a 300Tdi not as much mileage as his tho. I cut my teeth on Bristol wheel bearings in 1957. Two nut adjustment, only feel for the correct set. never had a problem. Not would I like to have to keep a spare hub spindly when the threads strip undoing the stake nut
To me the only better setup is the one employed an a proper VW
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11 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:
some prefer adjustability, some prefer endurance. The distance in the bearing will always stay the same, because it depends to the hub. As long as you do not change the hub, distance will stay the same.
Imho it is important to really fix the inner rings of the bearings. If they can't move, the stub axle will stay in better condition, as long as the seal is ok.
Adjusting the bearings never is good for long time
Please exp-lain by a long time and why I should buy unnecessary expencive tools
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1 hour ago, Sigi_H said:
to be honest ... switch to the later TD5 system with the distance between the bearings and only one nut wherever possible. This system will last significantly longer
Really. I much prefer two nuts an lock washer.
Always use a new lock washer otherwise the nuts tend to sit in the groves of the old one maanng the bearings are not correctly adjusted
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On 3/2/2020 at 7:19 PM, Oakmaster said:
Not meaning to hiJack this post, but I have read (on here I think) that reducing the voltage on a halogen bulb causes them to deteriorate faster? does anyone have any facts / experience of Dim Dip to back this up? Conventionally with incandesnt for every 5% you reduce the voltage across and incadescent you double the bulb life. Until I heard of Halogen 'depletion' I was planning on wiring my spots etc so that when 'off' they would recieve enough volts (via a resistor) to keep them glowing stopping, (or so I thought) the shock of the bulbs going from cold to flat-out, and back again.
Quartz Iodine lamps now called halogen are supposed to run at 13 volts otherwise lamp deteraion will take place. That is from the originol QI information supplied by Phillips when QI first came out.
Halogen lamps do not have a bulb but a quartz envelope
Another bit of usless information The QI lamp filament runs a 3,100 Deg C
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Check also the P gasket and water pump. Also the back of the header tank for a split
Electric Defender
in International Forum
Posted
Range Rover Hybrid