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steve200TDi

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Posts posted by steve200TDi

  1. What I'm planning on doing is really to work in the confinments of the original dimensions and not go mad with wild designs! So from what your saying I should be fine.

    Where is Hybrid from hell's chat with VOSA / DVLA? (I had a quick search and couldn't find it.)

    My main aim is to make a crossmember that's strong and will not rust. It will probably be near to the standard shape of the original as it's going on my daily driver defender 90 that I use for pay and play days and maybe punch and winch challenges in the future!!

    Steve

  2. Thanks Les.

    I'm really after a design drawing from the factory, but I have not found anything on here or google etc. so I guess I'll have to make up my own.

    Some useful dimensions would be:

    - The overall length.

    - The Height.

    - The angle of the slanted edges where the mudflaps sit (on a 90), I'm guessing it's the same for a 110.

    I think this would be a good basis to start with. As I am making my own, the only constraints I have is the slanted part where the mudflaps sit and the body work and so I guess it doesn't have to be exactly the same.

    Are there any regulations that I need to worry about. I know of welding regs and so I will make sure that it is welded on securly. Lighting regs as I plan to relocate the fog lights into the rearcrossmember.

    Thanks for your help Les

    Steve

  3. Hi,

    Does anybody have or know where I can find any design drawings of a standard rear crossmember.

    There is a few dimensions on the chassis drawing in the workshop manual, but thats all I have found.

    I plan on making my own rear crossmember for my college project and wanted some drawings as apose to going out and measuring my rusty crossmember which would not be very accurate.

    This may turn into a winch ready crossmember, but haven't decided yet.

    Thanks

    Steve

  4. Yup, check out the earths. There is another big one on the bulkhead in the engine bay near the clutch master cylinder. Check also the earth strap from the body/bulkhead to the battery.

    Chris

    I also have this problem. I have checked the earth on the wiper motor by moving the earth to the door check strap bar, but it still happens. Where is this large earth you speak of in the engine bay near the clutch master cylinder as I can't see it.

    Steve

  5. As Promised some pics

    31 / 10.5 / R15 on 15x8 8 spoke wheels, They fill the arches beautifully and cause no wheel rub without even touching the steering stops.

    Performance wise they just ate up the boggy old green lanes we went on at the weekend, My mate in his Disco with BFG ATs (not an apple for apples comparison) had real troubles and where I drove without even thinking about it he had to keep re-attempting and eventually had to be winched out by yours truly :)

    Road noise was un-noticeable but then the inside of a bare Defender is hardly silent to start with, road manners were fine (didn't really much of a change) even up to 80 odd. The big tread gap did pick up and hurl some impressive sized stones about though :P)

    I paid £395 odd for 4 wheels and Tyres which seems a bargain

    Any questions give me a shout

    I am also in West Sussex if you want to have a look in person and am also called Steve funnily enough :P

    dsc01561xd6fg0.jpg

    dsc01563te8.jpg

    Great pics, they look good on your LR.

    Do they touch the wheels arches on articulation?

    You said you went green laning, was it any where local?

    Steve

    Just been looking at other tyres in 31x10.5x15 and found the Maxxis M8060 Trepador - Anyone had any experience with this tyres?

  6. I have finely come up with a plan.

    As my Avon rangemasters are still usable I mite as well keep them and use them, as apose to storing them or selling them (wont get much for them anyway) and buy a set of slightly more aggressive tyres for using to drive to the pay and play site and using them.

    Now I've said this people will probably say 'buy insa turbo special tracks/simex' but I still quite like the idea of Recip trials. Any other people had experience with these tyres?

    Steve

  7. Hi Dan,

    I found that a spray can doesn't go very far, and so I bought a tin of wheel paint (Standard land rover white wheels which I believe is derived from tractor paints) and using a small air compressor I thinned it down slightly and painted all four rims and still had loads of paint left. I primmed the rusty bits beforehand. The finished result looks pretty good.

    All I've got to do now is the spare!

    Steve

  8. Hi, I'm guessing that this the genuine rear cross member that you have blanked up/sealed in (which is in the tech achive), but with not extentions - is this correct.

    How easy/difficult was it to weld it in situe with no extensions? Any Pics

    I surpose you could weld the cross member on and them add on the gussets and strengthening plates on afterwards.

    Steve

    Just interested as I maybe going down this route of making my own cross member.

  9. Yeah I first had a bit of head scratching to find the best way to make them. I think that was my third attempt after first thinking that I could weld little bits of metal together - how hard was I trying to make this!!

    Excellant, I want to see loads of pics after you've finished :D

    What seat belts do you have and what fixing eyes do they have. Mine are plain brackets with an hole in, but if you look closely on the link from the military forum they have clip on ones?

    Steve

  10. Yes they do and they are a bit more hard wearing that the standard ones.

    That's one of the main reasons wanted these ones as they're a bit more hard wearing tough than the others and they look nicer! Also with the standard/basic ones you have to remove the flat cusion slightly to fold the seats up and it all looks a bit clumsey/bulky. Whereas with you just lift them up and hook the strap on. There pretty well made as well with the cushions easily unclipped from the frame for cleaning (like I did) and you can also undo a clip to remove the foam cushions.

    Hopefully they'll get some use. I'll have to get someone else to drive so I can try them out for myself!!

    Steve

  11. Oh do modulars have more of an offset that LR rims like wolf and such.

    How much of a difference is the offset and what rims would be the best for 235/85R16 and 265/75R16. Wolf rims or 16x7 modulars. Which combination would give the best alignment under the wheel arch of a defender 90 with standard suspension.

    Thanks

    Steve

  12. Hi,

    Sorry for the delay, I have some pictures.

    These two pictures show the bracket in situe. The bracket will be rivoted to the tub to form a mount once i've painted them!

    post-7712-1214672463_thumb.jpgpost-7712-1214672471_thumb.jpg

    And this picture is a net of the bracket. I used 2mm mild steel. I cut most of it out with a jigsaw, worked well actually and filed it to shape.

    post-7712-1214672478_thumb.jpg

    I think I will aim to mount the seat belts near the back of the wheel arch (roughly where these red crosses are!) so there out the way.

    post-7712-1214672880_thumb.jpg

    Hope this helps. I better crack on and get mine fitted, I've just got the seat belt bracing plates to make and they'll be finished.

    Look forward to see the brackets that you make.

    Steve

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