Phil Hancock
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Posts posted by Phil Hancock
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Use the correct Rocol ASP, anything else will let you down as there is no oil feed in there. I killed the splines in mine in just 12 months because i did not use the ASP even though i had some at home, i had used a dollop of heavy grease.
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Same cam shaft in 2.25d, 2.5p, 2.5nad, 2.5TD & 200Tdi. Its only the thread for the pulley/sprocket bolt that was different being changed from 3/8"UNF to M10 when the 2.25d went metric.
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I used to drive a Muir Hill tractor powered by a Ford 380 diesel, that went well at high revs but low down was carp, it started fine and ran clean. The engine had been fully rebuilt before purchase and when I had a look at the engine the fuel pump was fully advanced. The timing gears were helical cut so I suspect the workshop monkey had got the timing 1 or 2 teeth out and could not be bothered to pull the pump and move the gear to realign the timing marks on the gears teeth hoping that fully advancing the pump body would bring it close enough.
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I recall looking at 6 pot Santana's and the gearbox was a different box to a series and I don't just mean that it was ribbed, LT85 comes to mind as Santana did that in 4 pot flavour.
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I know a chap with a 200Di in an 88", it goes but over 50mph(IIRC) it runs out of puff, he wishes he had kept it Tdi. So if you are looking at a 109" or require it to lug weight about or tow anything of any size then keep it turboed and be gentle.
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The bolts are Bi Hex heads not spline drive.
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The seal track should not push on by hand cold that's loose, dropping on when the track is hot(smoking) and the stub is cold is fine likewise a drive fit cold.
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It is a late Santana built series 3 gearbox, suffix D it should be as regards internals. One of the traders was selling them a few years ago brand new as he had bought a job lot of NOS clear out, possibly MOD stock. A very good friend of mine bought one for his 109" and it was very nice to use but failed due to a flaw in the mainshaft steel resulting in the rear threaded section falling off. So at some point I have to replace the mainshaft for him when we get the chance to sort his 109".
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My 109" is fitted with a defender clutch pedal box and to be honest although it is lighter in operation it is not massively so and I don't find any problem with lack of feel.
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AFAIK the original fit was a Garrett.
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Mine was issued with a 1996 reg in 2007.
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Anybody got a pic of a std 110 damper in situ?
post 7 shows the unused opposite hand damper mounting on a coiler chassis so that looks tighter to the chassis than IIRC the series bracket would be.
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As the damper is dropped to the mounting on the drag link the difference in length will be greater, so full left lock will not be limited by the damper.
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It sounds like the stop solenoid is getting a feed from someware when the ign sw is in the off position or the plunger is missing/sticking in the stop solenoid.
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When the oil catchers are fitted the hub outside is machined parallel and has a groove in the turned section to stop the oil running along the hub as it has to drip off where it still inside the catcher.
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That's a series 3 assembly with the earlier type dual line master cylinder, the hacked wing is because series 3 and late 2a wings are narrower at the back to clear this servo/master cylinder set up and your wing is an earlier 2a wing.
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Unless the main pivot is worn leave it alone apart from fitting a grease nipple in place of the bolt and then you can grease it.
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British springs don't exist any more.
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FRC6938 spacer
TRS1114L reverse shaft o ring
FRC6438 fwd shafts o rings
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Try increasing the swivel preload, not too far that the steering wont self centre.
Just a thought but have you got roller top swivel or railco? railco have IIRC a higher preload figure.
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Britpart, cheapest(AFAIK), quality can be bad or good depending on what they send out, some sag quickly or under load, standard size bushes.
Rocky Mountain, middle of the road price, quality good by all accounts, non standard bush size(keep a set in your spares stock and replace as soon as you use them), ride can be a bit hard.
Heystee, expensive, standard size bushes, hi quality and good ride.
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Although the tyres have been balanced are they running true? buckled rims or out of shape tyres come to mind.
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My wife due to joint problems has had me fit a 1.9:1 Lockheed type servo on her 200Tdi D1, its fine and I would have preferred to fit a 3:1 but the garage advised against it saying that we would get clutch wear problems due to lack of feel. As her joint problems are only going to get worse we will end up with a 3:1 and if the clutch suffers then a Tdi 130 or 6 paddle clutch will cure it.
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Very good but a few points.
1, you make no mention of the steel coregated washers under the injector nozzles that are supposed to act as heat sinks and stop carbon forming between the nozzle sides and the bore in the head.
2, The 2.5 thermostat shown is the wrong one for the thermo housing top you have, you want a std series thermo or a spacer making to fill the counterbore in the top casting as a 2.5 thermo housing top is flat.
3, The spare wheel carrier shown on the back door if used for a spare wheel as its shown in the pics will rip the middle out of the door as it has no crossbar in the frame at the top of the mounting plate, the crossbar is another piece of door frame section.
4, The selector shaft seals in the gearbox you have stripped are the later style 'o' ring with spacer which IMHO work better than the usually supplied original pattern square seals that now don't even grip the shaft when new. So stick with the late type.
Leaf Spring oddity
in Series Forum
Posted
1 ton front springs are the samepart as 109" diesel/6 pot and iirc V8, the difference is the hangers and shocks.