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Phil Hancock

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Posts posted by Phil Hancock

  1. The gasket will affect your preload on the pinion bearing, - as in it will move the pinion off the planet gear by the thickness of the compressed gasket its easier to set up the preload with shims and without the gasket

    Sorry but that is total cobblers, the pinion and the diff are an assembly in a casing that is bolted into another case, the axle. So gasket or silicon will have absolutely no effect on preloads or tooth clearances.

  2. Series rims came in 2 widths, swb rims (with 6.00 tyres) were 5 inches wide, lwb rims (7.50 tyres) were 5.5 inches wide. ALL Defender rims are 5.5 inches wide.

    Not quite as series 1 ton were 6.5" wide 900 x 16 tyres and so are defender 130 rims but they are shod with 7.50 x 16" or 235/85 x 16" tyres.

  3. There was somebody on a forum who had his series balls 'spray painted' with a 2 pack(IIRC) plastic stuff, it looked odd as it was brown in colour, but it was very tough and tolerant of a less than perfect start finish which was just the original grit blasted, pits and all. Pits were delt with by locally added extra 'paint' followed by flatting down. The 'paint' was used on stuff used off shore. That could well be a better bet than re-chroming.

  4. After the last but one main box rebuild on my 109" after stripping 1 1/2 teeth off the layshaft 3rd gear i had fitted new 1st, 2nd, 1st/2nd syncro hub & both baulk rings, it then grated into 2nd on a downshift and was worse when warmed up. I lived with it by double declutching.

    To properly double declutch on a downshift you will have to loose the brake while you raise the revs.

  5. It fits on top of the over run hitch body pointing forward, to activate the movable bit it pushed down thro the slot in the body and forward so the tit hooks under the case, then reverse. The pain is that as soon as you go forward again if shunting the catch releases and has to be reset before going back again.

    The original problem could be down to newness/lack of lube in the cam to brake shoe connection area so it is taking a lot more effort to shove the shoes down the cams and release. Our old Eldiss caravan used to do the same thing occasionally and it would then release with a clonk.

  6. Aha, but are the gearboxes the same? maybe they are and all diesel series will only cruise at 40 mph and start off in third if asked to and be in top at 20 mph.

    The series 3 is now just about acceptable but still too low geared with the Defender diffs (3.45 ?) its not that we are used to modern vehicles, it's because the engine is revving too much at 45mph. The engine revs that we usually change up at (say 2500 to 3000) see very rapid gearchanges and into top at running speed, cruising at say 2500/3000 is usual but the series would only be doing about 30 mph which is not normal even for a series so our gearing somehow is lower than normal,

    The skinny wheels have been changed for defender ones but the profile is about the same, stood side by side they are about the same height.

    Must be something different with the cogs but don't know what.

    Its ok for now as 45 isn't too slow for local but its not nice revving so much over the 'happy' section of the revs if you know what I mean, it sounds like you should be doing 60 or seventy with the engine nearly on the governors :)

    You must have a 1 ton box in there based on those speeds and revs.

  7. The front brakes are a known person I'm not that keen on to bleed due to the bleed screw ports being on the horizontal center line creating air pockets above the bleed screws.

    Remove the front drums and shoes and clamp the pistons fully back into the cylinders, then bleed them out. Refit the shoes and drums, adjust and you should have brakes.

    Regarding the master cylinder, i would say that the res to cylinder seal is missing/defective in that port.

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