Phil Hancock
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Posts posted by Phil Hancock
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When the clutch wont release its probably one of the bits of rubber floating in the fluid has got under the one way valve and so prevents the creation of pressure as the valve is in effect still open.
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I never compared the FFR pulley with a 12v pulley as regards groove position but the FFR pulley is for an A section belt and the 12v pulley is Z section like civvy but double groove, the extra groove is in front of the 'civvy' position.
Std pulleys 12v,
double groove Z section crank pulley, water pump pulley and dynamo/alternator pulley
Std pulleys 24v,
Triple groove, 2 x A section & a smaller 1 x A section crank pulley. 1 x A section groove water pump pulley. 2 groove A section alternator pulley. 1 x A section groove water pump tensioner pulley.
So as you say that the crank pulley is 3 groove it will need changing due to the groove size being bigger than your belt.
Oh your flywheel housing sounds like the externally ribbed type fitted on series 3.
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Is the master cylinder mounted at an angle the same as on a normal control as air gets trapped in the master end cap if the vehicle is on the level or nose down, you need nose up to let the air out.
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What water pump pulley have you got? The FFR water pump pulley is different to the 12v pulley. The flange position on the FFR and 12v water pumps is the same dimension on both, so you can have an FFR timing case and pump running with civvy pulleys and the pulleys will line up.
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Yes the 'traditional' cast iron is brittle, but cast iron comes in a lot of grades that will vary massively in their properties and uses and have done so for many many years, IIRC a series petrol crankshaft was SG iron as an example as was the crankshaft in my old pre WW2 designed truck. Adding extra carbon to any grade of cast iron when melted does not make steel as steel has less carbon content than CI.
Simply put Molten iron + Bessemer convertor to burn out the extra carbon = steel.
Cast iron family carbon content 2.4% to 4%
Steel family carbon content, up to 0.3% for mild steel going up to 2% which is high carbon tool steel.
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Series splines are a different number to LT77/R380 splines.
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The same lift pump was used on the old 2.5's some of which which had a thin cast iron side cover the same as a series, that was what the spacer was to be used on.
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Whenever I have done or seen done any machining to cylinder blocks, heads, brake disks or drums the swarf, dust and smell/taste of the dust says to me cast iron. Meehanite is cast iron. Google it.
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AFAIR the 2 dowel studs should be on opposite diagonal corners.
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As engine blocks are cast iron and you proposed adding more carbon that does not make steel, you want less carbon to end up with steel.
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If it helps on a D1 the front is out of line and the rear is in line.
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S1 = 3/8"BSF
S3 = 7/16"BSF
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A series 10 spline diff will fit a RRC/D1 10 spline axle and shafts.
Long nose diffs, the 4 bolt flanges are not all the same, on a series they are on 4 splines and on the late 200tdi D1 diff that I pulled the flange off to change the pinion seal it was a fine spline, I did not count the splines but it was something like 20 spline.
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The top mounted arms were also slightly thinner than the bottom mounted arms, if you were to go to top mounted IIRC you would need the opposite hand steering versions or the ball joint eyes would be in the wrong place.
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Don't forget that series shackle bolts are 9/16"UNF.
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The trouble is that you have to tighten the nut incrementally to check for bearing play, just a bit at a time so you don'e overload them. It all depends on how quickly the Locktite goes off, and i my experience it's too quick.
Wicking grade applied after assembly?
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Ed if you cant find the manual swing by with a flash drive.
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Some bearing races only work one way and lock when you try to turn them backwards. Not sure how they work though,
The bearing outer has a slight cam profile in it, movement of the rollers away from the cam allows the shaft to turn, turning the shaft the other way pulls the rollers in till it jams and then the outer turns.
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Are you sure the head is actually steel and not SG iron? Some steam loco cylinders needed casting a few years ago to replace the original steel castings which were long ago scrapped, British Steel Corporation(remember them?) were going to do the castings and said that they could not guarantee the castings to be without defects, but if they were cast in SG iron it would have the mechanical properties almost of steel but be easier to cast as the metal is more fluid when molten. They also said that back in the day that it was a regular occurence to do weld repairs on the steel castings before they went for machining. These cylinders were a lot larger and noware as intricate as a cylinder head for a little diesel.
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Ed, i will see what i can find for you.
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I have replied to this on another forum, IIRC we used a redrilled RR flywheel and a 2a diesel clutch and a bolt on spigot bearing housing with a Bill Philips kit.
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Does anyone know where I can buy stainless steel wheel cylinder pistons for 6cyl/ Stage one front brakes. I'm getting tired of unseizing the damn things every year. Packing the boots with rubber grease doesn't do the trick.
Ed, a little CNC job on the side for you? i would have 2 sets.
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Its not a Tdi thats replaced a TD with the TD flywheel housing fitted is it?
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300TDi Cylinder Head in Cast Steel
in Discovery Forum
Posted
You are not now throwing wrought iron into the pot now are you???