jwriyadh
-
Posts
138 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by jwriyadh
-
-
Download RAVE and use the wiring diagrams included.
The problems are probably all from the same source, the wiring extension for the LPG kit most likely uses the ign switched supply from F3 Satellite fusebox and is possibly overloading that distribution. This also feeds the coil.
jw
-
Assuming that a D2 steering is physically similar toa D1.
To locate the error you need to centre the steering box which will have some form of definition, fork and hole or markings.
Once centered the error will be apparent.
BE WARY OF JUST REMOVING STEERING WHEEL AND REFITTING. The D1 has a fragile wiring connection cassette beneath the steering wheel which be easily and expensively damaged.
Orange, my D1 drop arm appears to be polarised at 90 deg positions, an error here would be quite obvious. You should check your setup with the steering box centered.
jw
-
Be wary of using a winch solenoid for use in a HD split charge system, they don't like the continuous rating.
BTDT several times.
jw
-
Can't reaad the diagram cus I opened a bottle of Stolly. After you get the rellay to work the only thing that normally stops the clutch from working is the low pressure switch due to you having an un-pressurised sytem.
jw
-
You have checked that it is indeed the steering wheel that is out of alignment haven't you?
Search on this site for a description of doing the job correctly. Think it was a Discovery that some guy had front ended.
jw
-
Hi Roger, the pumps should have non-return valves in them. Try re-plumbing to just one of the pumps at a time and see if either holds the pressure. Also look at the fuel pressure regulator, it could be leaky. Beyond those possiblilities is a dribbling injector, but that would probably show up on a plug check as one very rich cylinder.
johnw
-
Heyup lad, how you doing?
1 Ban snatch straps.
2 Ban sand ladders.
3 Show them what a shovel looks like and how to work it. Preparation reduces the strain needed.
4 Don't forget to teach them;
The slow grind, your sand is bit light for that but works if there is any slope.
Rock the car and drive out.
Vehicle front on top on ridge, dig out below the rear wheels.
Vehicle on side slope, anchor rear end and use stuck vehicle reverse and full lock.
Prevention is better than recovery, you need a stretch like Sand School at Ruma. Teach them to drive without getting stuck.
jw
-
Fridge, the upper part of the lambda sensor needs to be in open air so that the sensor has two gas mixtures to compare. That does not stop you using a heated sensor in a more conveniently located M18 size orifice that you have just drilled.
istruggle2gate11, thats the way I was taught some time ago. I agree, a WB sensor is the way to go now.
jw
-
Timing light- I use one made by Optilux, xenon. so it's bright enough to use outdoors. Think the company has been bought out by Hella. Very reliable piece of kit. That good that when I mislaid my original I bought another identical model, this time as above from Hella.
Mixture- let the 2.25 do it for you. Make sure the timing and sparking is good. Turn the mixture screw in until it stops, now wind out two complete turns, the standard starting point for most carbs. Start the motor, keep on smoothing out the idle with the mixture screw and reducing the idle speed, again and again. By the time you have the idle down to 250-300 rpm and smooth your mixture will be about right. Raise the idle speed to whatever you require.
If the above does not bring success you have a problem somewhere.
If you did minis you should have used the lifting pin or a thin screwdriver. Far more accurate tan Gunsons gadgets.
jw
-
3/8 UNC
jw
-
Raise the front axle slightly to remove some of the weight from the tyres, get under the steering box and get somebody to turn the steering till the box is at mid travel. You should then see a vee in the steering arm aligns with a hole in the steering box casing, set it up accurately with a drill, IIRC about 6mm.
You can now see how the tracking was done probably incorrectly, you need to set the wheel on the end of the drag link to parallel with the chassis by adjusting the drag link. You then set the other front wheel parallel to the chassis by adjusting the track control bar.
If you are unsure of which way the wheels are pointing run a length of string round all four wheels at hub height and tie tight. The wheels are parallel with the chassis when the string touches the tyre on the front wheel at both sides, ie no gap between string and tyre.
Also while the steering box is at its midpoint you can reset the steering wheel so that it is pointed straight ahead, be careful when dealing with the steering wheel there a curly flexible connection at the back of the wheel, do not break it.
Final tweak to tracking should be done by your tyre man with some form of gauge.
jw
-
Geoff, you are correct, the hotwire ECU parks the stepper in the open position when you switch the ignition off. When the igntion is switched on the ECU will advance the stepper closed a small amount dependent on the ambient temperature.
Disconnect the stepper after using the hotwire ECU so it stays open then use a screwed clamp to shut down the stepper airpipe to reduce your engine speed.
jw
-
Gave up looking, there's loads of them, mainly copper based.
Did note two things;
Innovate say not to run their LC1 disconnected, so if yours is WB then be careful.
New oxygen sensors will be packaged with a special anti-seize lubricant already applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from the exhaust and is to be reinstalled for any reason, the sensor threads must be coated with a fresh anti-seize compound. Use a G.M. anti-seize compound no. 5613695, no. 3613695 or an equivalent compound made of liquid graphite and glass beads. This is not a conventional anti-seize paste, the graphite will tend to burn away but the glass beads will remain. The use of a regular compound may electrically insulate the sensor, rendering it inoperative. You must coat the threads with an electrically conductive anti-seize compound.
Depends upon whether you have an earth connection to the device or if it relies on the thread into the exhaust.
jw
-
Hows about Rocol? Number 1 from an "anti-seize paste" Google. Good for 1100deg C.
See http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/produc...ol%20Anti-Seize
jw
-
The correct solution is anti-seize paste which smeared on all(?) new lambda sensors from the packet. I understand this to be a paste medium carrying glass balls or bits in it.
"Apply anti-seize (ex. GM #5613695) to the threads before installing", quoted from MS site. I did briefly chase this at my local Vauxhall dealer parts department, was promised a phone call back but as usual, no result.
Have a chase yourself for it, somebody in this country must make something like that.
jw
-
Forgot to mention above, if you fit the green tune resistor to disable the mixture correction the signals on the lambda sensors are still valid, ie, just because you have instructed the ECU to ignore them the sensor output still tells whether the mixture is weak or rich (if they are working correctly).
More help maybe, http://www.roversnorth.com/web/downloads/r...P65_pg36_37.pdf
Found by trawling the net for "14CUX"
jw
-
Fridge, all LR hotwire systems use titania sensors. They are somewhat more resistant to the LR environment than zirconia types but titania have the disadvantage that they are only available in an M12 thread instead of the the more normal M18, plus titania are resistive not generative so the signal values read vary according to the whims of the ECU circuit designer.
geoff, faultfinding on any closed loop system is a PITA and substitution can lead you up blind alleys. Break the closed loop by taking the lambda sensors out with the green tune resistor so that your engine runs on just the ECU fuel map moderated by temperature, TPS and airflow.
For the full version of the hotwire tests try looking at http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/barnes_firsnorton/lr_efi/
As fridge would say MS is the best move you could make.
jw
-
Or fit the green (470 ohm) tune resistor and take the lambda sensors out of the equation.
jw
-
I assume you are still running hotwire.
Before you swap out the lambda sensors why don't you put a voltmeter on the lambda sensor signal wire and watch what it is doing? When the sensor is hot enough and the ECU is responding to the lambda signal the voltage should swing back and forth between the rich and weak sides in just less than a second. The signal should swing from 0.5 to 1.0 volts If either is not swinging the ECU will try to react to that (lack of) signal.
Remeber to connect the meter negative to the correct wire, not just earth.
Check that they are both drawing heater current.
jw
-
As suggested before, check the fuel pressure. The fuel pressure is not constant, it varies with inlet manifold depression.
Trawl the internet and find the LR checks for hotwire systems. Follow the process exactly, no shortcuts and see what the results are.
Make sure that the rest of the motor, ie timing, plugs, rotor arm(LR genuine only), dizzy cap(LR genuine only), plug leads, etc are all correct.
A thought for you, when the engine is idling hot or cold the manifold depression is at its highest. The manifold vacuum is used to modulate the fuel pressure regulator with the objective of maintaining a constant difference in pressure either side of the fuel injector so that the fuel flow depends upon the injector open time rather than the relative pressures. At idle the fuel presure is reduced from the normal 36 psi to around 30-32. Non-modulation of the fuel pressure would give you a richer than normal idle.
I wont suggest that this is your problem, but at least you could remove it from the list of possibilities.
jw
-
Put your thumb on one side of the joint and your fore-finger on the other. When someone else rocks the steering wheel if there is play in the joint you will feel it.
jw
-
Pin 25 provides a common ground for the MAF, coolant sensor, fuel sensor and TPS.
Pin 3 provides a reference voltage for TPS.
Pin 20 inputs the TPS signal.
At the TPS this translates into final wire colours as;
Pin 25, green
Pin 3, yellow
Pin 20, red.
at the TPS.
Slice open the sleeving and check voltages from pin 25 at ECU plug while plugged in with ignition on, use a very pointed probe and pierce insulation. Yellow should be steady at 5 volts, red should swing with throttle movement.
Be wary, IIRC, pin 25 is not connected to vehicle earth with the ECU plug out. Always use pin 25 for ground with the sensors.
jw
-
Alternator warnig light glowing.
With engine running take a critical measurement of voltage across battery lugs (not clamps) and then across the alternator output stud to alternator frame. If these are different then the connections between the two are iffy. To find the bad point measure volts from alternator frame to battery neg lug and from alternator output stud to battery pos lug. Both should be less than 0.5 volt. Where a larger drop is found then by moving one of the voltmeter probes the problem area can be found.
If there are no voltage losses in the charging area check the voltage with reference to the battery neg lug at the ignition switch input and output to the charge warning lamp feed with the switch on and engine running. Again this should read very close to battery voltage.
It's not unusual for ignition switches to fail just as the connectors suppling it with battery power do.
jw
-
If your misfire occurs under acceleration then the TPS could be causing it. No TPS signal means no acceleeration enrichment.
Check it out using the LR hotwire guide method:
Pull ECU plug and check resistance between pins 3(ref voltage source) and 25 (sensor ground). This should be around 5k ohms.
Reconnect ECU plug and turn on ignition. Now back probe pin 20, then operate throttle and watch the swing. This should vary from 0.5 volt to 4.8 ish and smoothly.
jw
Ignition wiring problem
in Discovery Forum
Posted
The fuse box beneath the steering wheel is in three parts, top is fusebox Satellite 1, then the main fusebox, finally the bottom section is Satellite 2.
F3 Satellite 1 is the top section, Red for 10 Amp rating, third from the right and probably labelled Engine Management.
This info all comes from the Discovery Owners Manual section of Rave, well worth downloading.
jw