jwriyadh
-
Posts
138 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by jwriyadh
-
-
Further, if the engine is running and the split charge system has connected both engine and winching batteries the load applied by the winch to its battery is transferred to the engine battery AND the alternator. For a short period this is acceptable, however, for a long winching job the alternator is being taken outside of its normal operating parameters and will generate excessive temperature. Even worse , if the alternator is of the externally excited kind it no longer has the protection of the normal self limiting design and can self destruct.
jw
-
O2, the last thing you want from your split charge system is toggling between batteries. This would give the same effect as constantly attching and removing the jump leads after starting someone else's motor and we all know that that process leads to dead alternator regulators don't we?
There are split charge systems that will connect or disconnect a battery while charging but if done properly through a "soft start " mechanism no harm occurs. These systems use logic to control their operations and are thus more expensive.
jw
-
Come on boys and girls, chill out. Have a bit of patience.
We have been informed that things are happening. So, let them happen in their own good time, and then, when all the manouvering and changing is complete take a step back and see if you like it.
jw
-
Use the biggest you can get within the bounds of installation and cost.
I found a convenient stock of 95sqmm welding cable and have used that ever since.
jw
-
Ignoring the politics, a guhtra is a very practical item of clothing for a desert climate. Provides shelter from the sun in the day, warmth round the neck at night, dust protection when required, wipes the windscreen and small enough to stuff in a pocket.
Try all that with any hat?
Plus I forgot, a soft nose wiper and cheap enough to be used as emergency toilet roll.
jw
-
RPR is a member here and probably lurking right now!
If you want him personally (ooer) put a post FAO RPR
jw
-
Chrispy,
You seem to have similar symptoms to Mean Green, and you have extra too! You also mention apparent richness and the fact that the A/C appears to affect the starting and running of the engine.
Your ECU appears to have lost control of both the air supply and the mixture. If you want to fix it then you need to follow a logical path, as in;
Check ignition and timing.
Check power supplies.
Check fuel pressure.
Check air control.
Check mixture control.
jw
-
Finger trouble.
jw
-
Check the state of the cam by measuring the valve lift on every valve. The appropriate figures are in the manuals.
As you remove the rocker shaft slide the rockers to one side and check the wear on the shafts.
Unless the engine has a known date of skimped rebuild I would prepare the owner for a large list of what needs replacing.
jw
-
If you need to give yourself room to work on the N/S head try removing the engine mounting rubbers and swinging the block to the O/S. Should give enough space to work. Whoever installed the conversion obviously did not want alter the bulkhead more than necessary.
The valve gear does not need adjustment if all the parts are original and standard. The gaps in the valve-train are taken up by the self-adjusting hydraulic cam followers.
If only the valve-stem seals need doing then consider the compressed air in the cylinder and one sided valve spring compressor method. The heads stay in place.
jw
-
I've lurked for a day, like the colour scheme and the company so I think I'm here for a while.
jw
Split Charging
in Land Rover Technical Archive
Posted
Simonr, take the time to watch what happens when you bump start a car with a flat battery. Your clamp-meter will show that the alternator goes onto its full output and does charge the battery……for about 2-3 minutes. Then the battery terminal voltage begins to rise (irrespective of its level of charge) causing the alternator current output to reduce to a much lower level. The charging process then continues at a reduced rate.
Contrast that with the situation where the battery has a winch under load across it. The winch load pulls down the battery voltage…. and the alternator output voltage thus causing the alternator regulator to go to full output. This situation will last as long as you continue to winch.
My reason for commenting here is nothing to do with Winch Challenges or the like, the competitors have learnt what works the hard way and have built their systems in the full knowledge of the pitfalls. However, it is prudent to warn the average non-competitive winch user that slapping a winch on his series motor will probably cause gradual degradation of his alternator and the associated wiring.
As for spending vast sums on a split charge system, I am even more careful than most Yorkshire folk. The Defender and Discovery both have a simple relay operated by the alternator field diodes which is reinforced by a continuously rated solenoid to allow winching with the engine running if required. The Ltwt had a 70 amp relay from a Ford Siera, as its 17ACR was on its last legs winching was done with engine dead.
The comment on VSS looks useful, thanks.
Moglite, if your main concern is the availability of power to start the engine then the ideal way is to use a diode blocker.There will be a voltage drop across it but that will only extend the time required for the batteries to recieve a full charge.
jw