jwriyadh
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Posts posted by jwriyadh
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You need a bit more dynamic testing to isolate the cause of the problem. The 3 volts may be significant particularly if it varies about the 3volt level.
None of your testing indicates how much fuel your system is injecting, might be good to watch a Wideband O2 sensor if you have one available. Alternatively have you a meter that can watch the pulsewidth at the injectors. Could probably also be watched by a laptop usng either a scope setup or a recording facilty.
If nothing else use an extended meter to watch signals going into the ECU while driving.
jw
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Roger, temperature may well have an effect on your problem, however, I think that it is essential to follow the main symptoms. The combination of hesitance while accelerating (probable weak mixture) and the eventual demise of several pumps suggests a problem in the fuel supply area.
The availability of a schrader fuel pressure check point (via the Disco 1 fuel rail) and a suitable pressure gauge kept under the drivers seat means that the fuel part of diagnosis is a simple plugin check. (Don't ask how I know this)
The Disco 1 suffered from poor connections on the fuel pump power feed, I don’t think yours does since a new pump cures the problem straight away and remains good for a period before failure. Bad connections fail and keep on failing under load.
Do your new pumps come from the GM dealer or one of the many other outlets? Just wondering about a supply of “copies” from a dubious source, IIRC JP used the same pumps successfully, heard from him lately?
Returning to the ME? Not going anywhere at the mo. Managed to stop something heavy moving by using my foot so I am shuffling round the house in a wheelchair. Hope to be walking by Xmas. Should have been in UAE this week for the Desert Challenge and hoped to do a bit of job-hunting as well but that’s on hold at the moment.
Be interesting to see what your fuel pressure is like,
Regards,
jw
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Replace the ignition coil with a relay coil.
This will remove the coil transformer effect but retain the back-emf pulse that is required by the hotwire as a Tachin signal.
jw
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Hullo Roger, trouble with the rangie???
You need a bit of shopping;
Rail Street for a pressure gauge reading up to about 60-100 psi, air fitting that screws in the gauge, length of rubber hose and a schrader valve connexion bit(like a tyre gauge).
Then Al Hai'ir, look for a late Disco 1 fuel rail, they have a schrader fitting in them for reading fuel pressure.
If no fuel rail then you need to cobble the gauge above or if you are stingy an oil pressure gauge into the fuel system. Don't try any fitting permanently into the fuel rail unless its silver soldered or better.
When you have access to fuel pressure level the you should see 36 psi with engine dead, start the motor and pressure should drop to 32-33 psi, rev it to reduce manifold vacuum and pressure should rise back to 36.
Tolerances on pressure are about 4 psi, any more and your ECU mapping would be somewhat out.
Probabilities are that the fuel pipe, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator or return pipe are restricted. Either with gunge or bin caught by a rock. The fuel pump shifts a lot of fuel and the return pipe is busy, so any restriction makes the pump work hard for its living. A new pump off the shelf works good and then deteriorates quickly.
You will probably have passed a lot of current through the fuel pump relay just lately so it would be worth fitting a new one in your environment.
Good to hear you're still about,
Regards,
jw
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Do the usual "rock the steering wheel" check for any slack in the steering.
If no slack anywhere check and then adjust the pre-load on both swivel hub bearings.
jw
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Nige, not sure about flapper style but VWP do "terminals for mouldings" that will suit hotwire style. Worth checking out.
jw
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The cranks are the same whether manual or auto.
The reference to UNC is a typo.
jw
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Admirable tip, using the spare wheel as a ground anchor.
I find it less exhausting in 40+ heat to do a little preparation with the shovel, let the tyres down to 4-5 psi and drive slowly out of the problem.
jw
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Slower indicator rate or the trailer lamp working is sign of GREATER current drain on the indicator unit. Let everything dry out, the problem should disappear.
jw
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3/8 bolt in the bell housing bolt hole and prybar in the ringgear teeth. If the sump is off use a wooden hammer shaft between a big end and the block.
Observe the fitting instructions for ringgear, red-hot is TOO hot.
jw
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Siggy, junk the ammeter or just hang it on the wall to look at. Ammeters are an incident looking for somewhere to happen. Fit a voltmeter.
You have been warned!
jw
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Get the engine number prefix from the block and check against "The Specialist"
jw
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I think Zenith carbs sounds right for what's there for now.
So it sounds as though the SU or Stromberg carbs aren't necessarily much better on the needle valve front, although they are better kit generally. Doesn't the idea of fixing the needle valve open interfere with the proper working of the carb though?
Markie, just need to clarify, what I call a Stromberg others may call a Zenith.
Fastening the pistons up apparently works fine for LPG. Slacken the screws to use petrol.
jw
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B+ is the same as the two large spade terminals. Check yourself with your multimeter set to ohms.
W is a tapping from the alternator (stator or output ) winding. This used to provide a pulsing voltage whose frequency is used to drive a tacho.
Your wiring is correct provided that the positive feed to your charge warning lamp is switched by the ignition switch.
Yes, the two spades will be linked internally, check with your meter as above. One cable can be used if it is of increased in size to have a current capacity equal to the two smaller cables.
The resistor in parallel with the charge warning lamp ensures that the alternator will start charging even if the lamp is blown.
jw
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Take off the feed to the first carb and block it. Turn on the ignition and listen to the pump. The fuel often drains back a bit to the tank so the pump starts with a loud ticking and when there is backpressure due to the pipes and carb float chambers being full the ticking reduces in volume.
If the ticking reduces as above it means everything is OK to the needle valves.
If the ticking does not reduce but carries on loudly then it usually means the pump is pulling air instead of fuel. Check all the pipes from the fuel tank and their junctions.
Check the piston dampers have oil in them, they are the plastic screwcaps on the top. Use engine oil. If they are not damped by oil the engine gets no acceleration enrichment and will stutter or die under an opening throttle.
When using LPG with any biased (springloaded) needle carburettor the needles will be dragged, unlubricated, up and down the jet wearing both. This will give over-rich mixture. The needles can be lifted and prevent wear by using the piston lift kit or using plastic locking screws to hold the piston up.
Either SU or Stromberg carbs and their fuel pump are reliable bits of kit and can be fixed easily and cheaply in the field. There is supposed to be a very small advantage in performance with SU, hardly worth the trouble of changing to them.
jw
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4.0 and 4.6 V8s with GEMS or later?
jw
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Before you fit any EDIS or anything try advancing your existing dizzy until you can generate some knock. Read off the advance with a strobe to give yourself a limit to the advance when doing your tables.
As a precaution have you thought about obtaining a knock sensor from a modern motor and trying get an output to light a led or something when knock occurs? I believe they are pieso-something or other which will resonate when knock occurs. Thus any output, amplified and then rectified could turn on a led. You do not need to know which cylinder is knocking, just that one or more are. Worth thinking about?
The trigger wheels are designed to be clamped between the pulleys not welded to them. The welding is just a catch to prevent any rotation.
jw
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Nige, does it really matter what bits are in these dizzies? The match between the dizzy and the engine is pure guess-work until you have a timing run done on the engine.
When you know what the engine requires then you can build a dizzy to give that curve.
The ignition amplifier under the coil is preferable to the dizzy mounted version, less liable to heat induced failures.
Surprised that FF has not proposed the MS+EDIS solution, probably the best answer to your problem.
jw
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10*0.06893 and 30*0.06893
jw
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The two thick browns go the B+, this alternator output to battery positive.
The brown/yellow goes to D+, this is from the charge warning lamp.
The remaining thin brown is probably for voltage sensing and should remain disconnected and insulated.
Some RRs used battery sensing when fitted with ACxx series alternators.
To confirm that your new alternator is correctly connected start and warm up the engine, put voltmeter across the battery pos and neg lugs, then raise the engine revs to around 1500-1800 rpm and hold for a couple of minutes.
The voltage should rise slowly to a maximum of 14.2 volts, if it rises any further get a sparky to look at it.
jw
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Does the kit that does not work at 100Mb have 10/100 network card or just 10Mb?
Does that kit work in "another office" at 10Mb?
Use your Tosh to check the "bad" network outlet for operation at 100Mb.
The switch ports can be configured for 10-100-auto. Always leave them on auto and let the switch work for a living.
Crossed cables, 4 wires are moved.
When you find crossed cables on your site always mark them with a piece of red tape.
jw
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Do you have a battery isolator or cut the battery off in any other way?
jw
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Double post!!! Deleted.
jw
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Before you pose your question you need to define what you want the split charge system to accomplish. There are as many variations in requirements as there are variations in solution.
You may choose between the following list of properties and add more if desired;
Primary battery protection
Low cost
Automated
Manual overide
Low auxilliary load
High auxilliary load
Can fix with a hammer
Complexity
Reliability
Compatability with all alternators
Looks bling
Discrete
and so on,
Then you need to add in the proposed way it will be used, another vast variety.
At the moment Simonr's device has a lot going for it, but would it suit your own personal requirements?
jw
LT230 rebuild
in International Forum
Posted
As with all transmission assemblies if you just change a few seals and gaskets what have you achieved? Yes, I've bin there and done that several times, usually skimping due to pressure to return the vehicle to the road. Success rate is probably 50%.
If you want to actually extend the working life of that assembly then put it together as the designer originally intended.
Get friendly with your local dealer/source of spares, it is not too difficult to arrange things like shims on sale or return terms.
jw