jwriyadh
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Posts posted by jwriyadh
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If you are worried about undue battery drain, take the motor for a run, park up, turn headlights on for 2 mins, check voltage on battery. A good battery fully charged should read 12.6 volts.
Leave overnight. Check voltage in the morning, a small drain for radio memory etc should only drop the voltage by a couple of tenths at most. So 12.3-12.6 is fine.
Alternator charging, take it for a run, measure alternator output voltage between alternator output lug and alternator casing, should be around 14 volts (13.8-14.2). Measure battery voltage with meter probes on battery lugs, not the clamps. Any difference between alternator voltage and battery voltage is voltage lost in cabling and connections. Lost voltage should not exceed 0.5-0.75 volts.
jw
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Recovery eyes made of square section material may be questionable, but any of round cross section should be fine especially when the soft shackle is protected by a reinforcing sleeve.
Nylon thimbles I haven't seen.
jw
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Inserting thimbles would just take back to the potential of flying metal objects, but this time smaller and therefore faster.
Make your own but include a short piece of fire hose or similar to lessen the risk of damage.
jw
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Looking at the same area but different route. Just treated myself to a Bosch 0 280 140 501 IAC which is designed for PWM. One of my systems will be used on a vehicle with permanently used A/C,hopefully will do the trick.
jw
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Have you checked the engine breathers are clear?
jw
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The two seperate feeds provide redundancy in the front braking system. If you suffer a pipe fracture you still retain working front brakes.
jw
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Hi Roger,
Take your "hotwire" feed from the ignition switch instead of the battery and you are done. There should have been a feed existing from ignition switch to coil pos if you used a complete wiring loom.
You have checked for ballast resistor requirements of the coil haven't you?
The resistor in the ECU pickup from the coil is required, it is protection to prevent the highest level spikes in the ignition circuit from reaching the ECU.
jw
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The third wire (usually brown/yellow) goes the the smaller stud terminal marked D+.
The third terminal on the alternator marked W is left spare, this is for a tacho.
jw
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MOG, in my LTWT I found space between bulkhead and front panel on the RHS for a similar device. With 120 psi in the tank you do not need to have the front flare of the horn open to the outside of the vehicle, believe me!!!!
The upcoming rearrangement of radiator and other bits should allow me to fit the bigger (3 ft)
Never mind the wrinklies these wake EVERYBODY up.
jw
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Mark, can't recommend using winch contactors for split charge systems, they tend to die rather quickly when used as continuously rated. BTDT with tee-shirts on both mine and Streakies. Stick with one of Si's kits.
jw
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Check out the IAC page for MSII on their site.GM used the same device.
Only source I have seen is here;
http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/produc...products_id=235
You may be lucky and find a source here in the UK.
jw
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No need for professional fitting as storage only.
Answer your own question after you have done the first tyre.
jw
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Jack one side of the front axle up and check movement at the wheel. This shows slack in wheel plus swivel bearings
Now get someone to press hard on the brake pedal.
Any movement left is worn or poorly adjusted swivel bearings.
If swivel bearings have not been recently adjusted they need replacing.
No leaks should be expected if swivel bearings and seal are in good condition.
jw
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Have you installed a flow and return system or just dead ended the flow at the carbs?
A flow and return system stands a better chance of keeping constant fuel availabilty at the carbs as vapour is flushed back to the tank. The fuel pressure at the carbs depends upon the pump pressure and the size of the restrictor you fit in the return.
jw
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Get motor running and turn on headlights.
Check voltage alternator output to alternator casing.
Voltmeter from alternator casing to batt negative and then voltmeter from alternator output lug to batt positive. Both should be less than 0.5 volt.
The charge warning lamp will glow whenever there is a difference between alternator output and battery voltage.
jw
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Look at X-Eng site or shout for simonr
jw
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Easy to identify if you give us the colours of the wires connected.
jw
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Why change a successful combination? Fitting any different motor will have it's share of problems.
I personally love the 318, good solid, unburstable motor but the 350 rebuilt for peanuts has got to be the way to go. If he wants a bit more sparkle then go to multiport injection and mapped ignition with FF's favourite bit of gear. Crispness with a bit more economy.
jw
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Fridge, the factory 4.2 is just a stroked version of the 3.9 and as such maybe has the bosses on the block for cross bolting but the main caps are unlikely to be suitable.
The 4.0 and 4.6 are brothers of the generation one step later than the 3.9/4.2.
I would tend to stick with the older generation 3.9/4.2 fitted with hotwire. As time went by the emissions regs were squeezed ever tighter encouraging ever leaner mixtures and thus ever higher running temperatures.
jw
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The only common things about the 3.9 and 4.0 engines are the bore and stroke dimensions and the number of cylinders. Virtually every component is different in some way, and may or may not fit/work in the other engine.
Consider;
Block, cross bolted mains and sensor mountings
Cyl head, chamber capacities
Crank, long or short nose, bearing size
Timing cover, oil pump
Distributor, used or not
Fuel system, Hotwire or GEMS
No Land Rover factory block is fitted with top hat liners, it is always an after market option.
The most trouble free version is I think the 3.9 serpentine intermediate as used in 96-98 Disco or stick with 3.5s.
jw
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Google for "hotwire"or "14CUX" and find the extract from the LR Service training manual, the checklists shown here will not work for hotwire, only flapper.
When you have obtained the correct information run through ALL the checks, this identify your problem area(s). Do the checks as shown, at the ECU plug, not the component.
Use the wire colours from an appropriate diagram to check correct connections to sensors etc.
As you have no lambdas or cats make sure your "tune resistor" is the green one (470 ohms).
The hotwire system, despite being Lucas will perform well and reliably. Keep in mind your hotwire system is not new and may have been messed with previously.
Enjoy the learning experience.
johnw
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Simon, longer or more tea/coffee/beer/ciggie breaks. Helps to break out of tight loops and think sideways.
jw
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At first glance appears to be ignition system related. How do you generate your spark? Have you used a timinglight to observe whether the spark is present while engine is not firing?
The regularity of the problem suggests an amplifier with short-term overheating.
Are there any common parts to petrol/LPG control or paths? Just thinking about air supply as well.
jw
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There is every possibility that you can rebuild the transfer case with new bearings, seals and gaskets, making no adjustments to preloads and clearances, finishing with a T/C that functions and doesn't leak.
Woohoo, magic, saved some labour and cost there. Bin there, done that.
Then a little later you realise that part of the slack in your transmission is due to slack in the differential because you didn't adjust it properly. Still you can live with that.
Then a bit later you also realise that the T/C gets a bit noisy when warmed up, damn, must be one of the bearing preloads a bit tight. Never mind, can live with that.
It's not going to be long before the T/C is talking to you permanently, suggesting that you get a replacement from Ashcrofts.
Correct clearances and preloads mean that the components work as they should and lubrication is effective.
Would you really want the guy who installs your ARB difflocks not to bother with setting the crownwheel backash and bearing preloads?
Don't really know how to put it any stronger here without getting the moderators busy with censorship. Go on, do it your way. I'm just passing on a bit of advice from forty years of experience with quite a few FUBARs on the way.
Les, help me out here!!!!!
jw
EDIS 8 and all that?
in International Forum
Posted
"idle-up for air-con pump"
Why not use the idle-bypass solenoid that LR used when fitting air-con to a flapper RRC? The raised idle speed obtained could be adjusted by restricting airflow through the device.
This would confict with any idle controller, either stepper or PWM if you are using them but not affect the flapper type extra air valve.
What is "smart idle"?
jw