Deface
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Posts posted by Deface
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Hi there, very soon i shall be starting my first land rover project, Ive decicded for my own reasons that i want it to be a 3.9 efi v8 manaul. Ive been looking at donor vehicles and found the land rover im looking for is a discovery between 1994 and 1999 with a 3.9 efi and these do come up in manaul every now and again, i also dont want my project to have lpg as it will be mainly an offroad vehivcle. The problem im having is finding one that is manual and hasnt got lpg and isnt too good for me to rip apart. My question is whats easiest/cheapest to do, remove lpg or convert to manaul?
thoughts please
ethan
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Yeh ive popped the o/s/f shaft im replacing the diff now aswell as its not in the best condition. Im just worried about the transfer box now but i cant tell if ive broken that until ive got two good diffs.
Only time will tell as they say.
thanks
ethan
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No thats was for less than half a mile until i realised. Thank you for all your help.
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Yeh there is definately alot of play in the rear pinion bearing.
no seizing of the front ujs but they have some play.
no play in either transfer flanges that i can tell at the moment.
By groaning i mean a grumble/whine like a normal bearing noise.
I driven it about 20 miles in total with difflock in could that of done damage?
Also something in my front axle went pop whilst road testing today and now i have no drive
i think its the diff or halfshaft. My suspicions of the transfer still remain though but i will have to get two good diffs fitted before i can rule it out.all this just before winter
not happy cheers
ethan
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(sorry for some reason it would not let me edit it)
I took the rear prop off today and road tested it and the noise when engine breaking went but a large groaning noise is now present when increasing and decreasing road speed along with a voilent vibration could this still be the rear diff as its still spinning??
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If i just remove the rear prop should the noise still change/go with the shafts still in place, if its the rear diff at fault?
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I cant really do that as my rear axle is off a disco and the shafts and flanges are one peice. But i do understand what your saying though cheers
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hi everyone im in need of some help regaurding my 1992 200tdi 90, not long ago i went to a pay and play site and broke my rear diff, to get me home (about 10 miles) i put it in difflock and drove it home. On the way home there was alot of loud noises and sudden jolts, when i arrived home i looked at the rear axle to find a rather large hole in the diff pan.
I removed the axle had a new diff pan welded on and sourced a second hand diff, put it all back together this afternoon and went to test drive it. Now when im slowing down under engine braking there is a very loud groaning noise and when in reverse it jolts a bit and groans.
First of all i road tested it with the diff lock on untill i realised and disengaged it, before i did this it wasnt as bad but now is sounds like imminent failure.
Ive checked:
The second hand rear diff has small play in pinion bearing.
No play in front diff pinion bearing.
No play in either output transfer box flanges.
Small amount of play in front UJs
Didnt get very far with the diagnosis as i was a bit disheartned and its now getting dark.
what do people think it could be gearbox? transfer box? either diff?
all help welcome.
cheers
ethan
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cheers mo, im getting a disco pump off a friend for free so im definately giveing this a go.
Just one more thing, it looks like you used a disco PAS pipe for the high pressure connection, do you know if i can just bolt my banjo connector onto it or do i have to get a disco pipe?
thanks
ethan
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Thanks mo that looks do-able just a couple of questions:
Does it work ok? any leaks etc? (im not questioning you mechanical ability by the way)
Did you de-asemble the pump at all to do this?
does the other pipe fit straight on?
did you make any other mods? as it looks like theres a plate inbetween the pump and the bracket
thanks again
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yeh thats the one i must of got my part numbers mixed up, but even so £158!!! from britpart?!?! surely there is a cheaper alternative?
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hi there my power steering pump seized up today on my 1992 200tdi defender so i serched for a new one(ntc9070) on various sites and they were all around the £130 mark whiched seemed abit expensive to me, so i was wondering if anyone had fitted a discovery 200tdi PAS pump as i can get one of them cheap off fleabay. I know the pipe conections are different but the way they mount look the same so is there a way of adapting the pipes to make them fit?
cheers
p.s. if anyone has a defender PAS pump i can purchase please let me know.
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when the was head off did you check to see if the head or block are warped? did you get the head pressure tested? did you check to see if the piston liners have lifted/loose?.
If the head/block are warped, cracked, or the piston liners have come loose it will show they same symtoms as the head gasket failing.ie coolant in oil (or vise vesa) or coolant in bores or exhaust gases in the coolant.
If its stalling when its hot it could be coolant getting into the combustion chambers when the engine heats up, possibly due to the things i have already mentioned causing the cylinders not to fire and then engine stalling.
does white smoke come out the exhaust? when it runs does it run smooth or lumpy?
take the spark plugs out and have a look into the bores and look to see if you can see any coolant.
HTH
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Thank you for your replies and suggestions, i removed the alternator and took the casing apart to see whats what and i found it to be pretty muddy and the brushes to be stiff and not 'springing' very well but trying to free them i broke one
so ive got a new alternator coming, i know you could probably replace them but i need it back on the road as im getting withdrawal symtoms. But if i wanted to apptempt to repair it and keep as a spare where would i get the brushes from and how much would they cost roughly?.
Reguarding the battery voltage its likely that because i was try to start it the battery was drained, although i did think 12.3v was fine, mayby ive been working on normal cars too much.
thanks again.
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hello there, i have a 1992 200tdi defender and i went to billing in it the other week and went round the off road course and obviously got it a bit wet and muddy. While i was going round the course the battery light would come on dim when going through the water sections and would only go out when i revved it.
The other day i went offroading again and went through a puddle and the light came on dim again and will only go out at about 2000+rpm but stay on when idling, i then turnedthe engine off and when i tried starting it again it would turn over slowly like the battery was flat.
I originally thought it was the alternator but i checked the battery voltage which was 12.3v and when its running its about 13.7v, so i checked the the voltage to the starer and it was getting 12.3 at the big red cable and about the same with the small white and red wire when cranking. Tested all earths and they are good, took the starter out and bench tested it and it turned but not as fast as it should so im getting a new starter tommorow.
Also ive now noticed the battery light doesnt always come on with the ignition like it always use to.
My questions are : why is the battery light still on dim when its being charged at 13.7v? and could it have anything to do with the now deceised starter?
I thank you in advance for you advise
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ive had the car about three years now, no special equipment on board, there was a black box behind the instrument pack with 'killjoy vehicle security' which is now in the bin as it intercepted the starter wire and for a moment i thought it was the cause of my problems. so weather the mystery object has something to do with this i dont know.
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ive reconnected those wires and it starts every time now without fail, its got a multi plug going into with 8 or more wires in it, its got its own loom which goes in to the bulkhead and behind the fuse box thats as far as ive needed to follow it. Im really not sure what it is.
ive tried to attach a picture not sure if its worked tho.
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well im pretty sure its not a split charge relay as one of the wires going into it intercepts the starter soleniod wire and about 8 wires go into in total and its bigger than a relay and its a cylinder, which means its not original and makes me think its some sort of alarm/immobiliser which i didnt know i had. I think im just going to wire it up as it should be as per diagram.
thanks for all you help guys
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The problem is still there as i went out to it this morning and got nothing again no cliking from either relay or starter.
Followed the blue wire that comes off the ignition barrel which get 12v when key is turned to the start positon and it goes into something bolted to the bulkhead in engine bay to the left of the brake servo right in the corner. Anyone now what this is?
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Have you told the (petrol) ECU that it has no cats now (tune resistor changed)?
Does it still have original lambda sensors connected?
Has the gas been set up to take account of the new free-er flowing exhaust?
Does the gas system have it's own lambda sensor(s)?
we havent touched the ecu or had it remapped at all.
original lambda sensors still connected.
the gas has also not been touched.
the gas has no lambda sensor of it own that we are aware of.
if these things are an issue by what means can i change them?, ive been trying to get him to megasquirt it but he says he hasnt got the money for that.
Im not sure i will be the same as yours as we have just changed all the plugs, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap, although the coil has never been changed sincet weve had it, weve had no reason to change it as yet.
so is this more than likely going to be a tuning issue? as the exhaust has been checked with no leaks, its got original manifolds and the pipe is the same diameter all that has been altered is that now is has no cats and one silencer.
any ideas as to why it does it alot more on lpg rather than petrol?
cheers
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hi there my dad has got a 1998 disco 1 3.9 efi v8 with lpg and has recently had a stainless steel exhaust made for it which means now it has no cats and ever since it has developed the tendency when he releases the throttle when driving it makes a loud bang. It tends to happen more often on lpg than petrol. Is this a tuning issue with unburt fuel going down the exhaust or just something that happens when the cats are removed?
any ideas?
cheers
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hey sorry for the late reply, ive had some progress on problem 1, went to start it after i came back form work yesturday and i got nothing no clicking from either the starter soleniod or the start relay. I took out the starter relay and saw that there was corrosion in the relay holder so i cut the wires off the back of it and wired them into a brand new relay and still nothing, but as i was testing wires for power/earth with my test light i accidentally crossed the brown permanent live wire with the white/red soleniod wire and it turned over and started and now for some reason every time since then it has started with the key every time.
So although im happy it seems to be fixed, im just not happy im not 100% sure what the problem was and if its still present it could come back to bite me when i least expect it.
any ideas??
cheers
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hi there, im having a couple electrical problems with my 1992 200tdi 90, they are as follows:
1. when trying to start it will either not do anything or the starter soleniod will just click continuosly but it started with a jump so i replaced the battery with a numax 1000amp one and for a while it was exactly same so i jumped it again, let it run for a while and tried it again and it clicked 2-3 times and then it fired up. ive checked the alternator charging at 13.5v, 12v at the big lead and spade conector (when trying to start) on the back starter, ive also put a jump lead from the starter body to battery with no difference. when i inspected the wires on the back of the starter i noticed the wire that goes to the spade connector had started to melt. Been told there could be a high resistance somewhere??
2.When the fuse for the horn is in place the right indicator comes on continuosly i havent had chance yet to have a look at yet this but has anyone got any ideas??
cheers
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hello, ive got a 1998 EFI v8 discovery and im replacing the in tank fuel pump but the new one doesnt come with the nuts or olives(if thats what they are called)that keep the nuts on and connect the fuel pipes to it. So does anyone have the part numbers or a place where i can find them on the interweb?
cheers
ethan
i think its the diff or halfshaft. My suspicions of the transfer still remain though but i will have to get two good diffs fitted before i can rule it out.
Future project question
in International Forum
Posted
Ok thats interesting, ive always thought Removing lpg was quite in depth as i thought there were holes drilled into the inlet for injectors, and the gas itself is obviously flamable and was unsure of the safety/enviromental side of things.