AV8R
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Posts posted by AV8R
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110 Center rear axle to end of tub is 930 mm (36"5/8)
90 Center rear axle to rear of tub is 635 (25")
Tub length for 110 is same as 109, 2140 mm. Measured from door edge to end of end capping.
Tub length for 90 is 1420 mm.
Tub length for 88 is 1320.
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Daan, nice truck in your picture but not a true SW as evidenced by the flat bonnet. Factory SW's allways had a "Deluxe" bonnet. Even when an extra spare wheel was required there was a dished "Deluxe"bonnet to go with that option.
Snagger, don't worry about the wheels, I wll keep my Sankey dividable wheels in Military green.
As far the roof is concerned, the soft top is there to stay. In it's present state VVV.
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Yes.
As the drive flange thing's (rear prop shaft flange) diameter is smaller than the hole in the back plate.
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Thank you, gentlemen.
The first owner was an Englishman who worked for a few years with the ESTEC space agency nearby in the Netherlands. When his job here was finished he sold it. Going back to the UK and the car being LHD was not convenient. My dad bought the car then in '67 and I bought it in '77. Still have some time to make up my mind. Going to change the engine soon. Just finished rejuvenating the steering wheel, turned out real nice. To the eyes and to the touch . And I need to do some serious work on the doors . . . . . . . . . . you know how it is with mechanical stuff 50 years of age
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My Series IIa started life in 1963 as a stationwagon. One of the jobs I would like to do in the near future is to bring it back to the colour scheme it had originally. Last week I got some photo's of my car, taken in the early 70's. As I could remember it was Sand with a tropical roof in Limestone and Limestone rims with black centres. What puzzles me is the Limestone grille panel, never seen this before. My dad, who bought the car in '67 did not apply this. Could this have been a factory option ?
Also clearly is the matt finish, while all I see nowadays is a gloss finish. Someone opened my eyes by suggesting all paint in those days needed some waxing to remain glossy. I am very sure my dad never polished or waxed it. So gloss or matt ?
All help and insights appreciated !
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44 minutes ago, sixtwoeight said:
Good idea with the core plugs with fitting one inside the other, il have a measure tomorrow and see what I can find as looking at the usual suppliers and the parts book on line I cant find what I need for some reason.
You will be the first to know if the old plug will stay put when you hammer in the new one inside it . . . . . . . . . .
I would not take a chance on it and work the old one out. It's not much work to do it proper now and fit the size that belongs there, that will most likely be easier to get.
As Lo-fi said, check the ones in the block too. They are probably the same vintage.
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I would be happy if everything was within 0,1 mm. If torqued up gently the cast iron head is quite able to form itself to the block.
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Come to think of it, mine is for the Cologne type engine i.e. 2,3 or 2,6 or 2,8 Litre. The ones with the ignition in the rear.
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7 hours ago, lo-fi said:
I've also successfully filled divets in gasket surfaces with chemical metal epoxy type stuff before
I regularly use Devcon F for repairs upto 120 ºC or Devcon Ti for upto 170ºC. Normally not on engine repairs but I did a repair on a RRC oil pressure sender mounting once. The original threads in the front casing were cracked and a replacement piece was bonded on with the engine in situ. The secret is like Lo-fi mentioned: clean, clean and clean again.
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1 hour ago, sixtwoeight said:
My theory is that it wasn't used for probably 20 years so hoping the seals have gone bad and now its been run, it is not sealing.
Unless there's a copper head gasket, after 20 years of neglect a regular steel head gasket may be on the edge of giving up. Like a lot things steel, time takes it's toll. I know my V6 had a blown head gasket within 500 Km after it's revival, having not run for 20+ years. Not trying to scare you off, just to keep an eye on it.
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Another way of keeping the valves in place. In case you don't have compressed air.
Remove sparking plugs. Rotate crankshaft so the piston of the cylinder you are working on is in a low position. Take a length of cord, about 6 to 8 mm diameter. Push the cord throught the sparking plug opening into the cylinder, leaving some outside to retract the rope afterwards. A knot in the end will keep the cord from entering completely. Now rotate the crankshaft until you feel resistance. The "compressed" cord will keep the valve in situ for you to do your thing with the seal.
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Overall view, gearbox side. Was taken out of a Series III.
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Is this what you are looking for ?
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Running Maxxis Bighorn 255/85-R16's on 6,50x16 rims. Originally the wheels were intended for 1-ton Shorlands with 900x16 tyres.
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My '63 88 has a Salisbury rear axle that needs a shorter the rear propshaft by 2" Have done quite some offroading and lots of road miles without problems.
Replacing the front brakes with regular 11"brakes from a 109 will uprate the front very well. Twin leading shoes, 10% larger diameter and 50% wider linings give your 88 a decent slowing down rate. Vacuumbooster will help your pedal pressure.
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I have one of those adapters. I don't need it any more as went a different way to mount the engine to gearbox.
I can make a picture of the adapter tomorrow so you can see if it is the right one for you.
Pictures are of my Ford bellhousing to LT77/R380 adapter.
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On 9-4-2018 at 2:01 PM, Eightpot said:
hang on a minute - this thread was started in 2014 by someone with one post so you might not get a response Enri...
The OP Mr, Greenstream is active on this forum, has 245 posts by now so he might be around for a chat . . . . . . .
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I worked on a 2006 110 last year and I expected it to be metric. The seat belt bolts looked like they would be M11x1.25 . . . . . . Turned out to be 7/16"-20 UNF !
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Quoting Fridge Freezer from the Leaf makes thread, about an update on this subject and trying to remain on topic:
Well for the last 5 years it's hardly been driven so can't really comment... but I reckon the front binds up a bit but the rear works a treat due to being the other way round and having much longer links (very close to the length of a leaf).
I'm still mulling solutions for the front but just need to get the damn truck up & running again before starting more projects! End quote.
What about bringing the torque arm for the front axle to the front ? Tie it to a new crossmember right behind the bumper. Too many tie rods in the way ?
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Front fenders for Wolf type Defenders have internal bracing panels to support antenna's and other equipment. That should give you the neccesary rigidity.
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On 8-3-2018 at 11:55 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
I've done a write-up on my anti-wrap somewhere on here.. ah, found it: http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/17658-anti-wrap-bars-my-solution/
Interesting story, Fridge. We are 10 years onwards now. Could you please give us an up date on your experience with this solution ?
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Brain fart there as they are available, you just never see them being used. They are carp
Depending on your business, I think. Actually I used them last week to save some threads with worn /abused beginings. Parts were good to go after some strokes with the file. You do need to select the correct pitch and file at an angle to parallel the original thread properly. Being a tool maker in a large aerospace factory, I do need to restore some threads now and then.
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And for those in the know , know they are available for internal threads as well ;-)
Cromwell stocks them. The tips can be used to scrape internal threads to restore them.
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Thank you gentlemen. Let's see if this Plasti-Dip is what I'm after.
Dash
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
That Ludwikprod site does not offer much help
The dash looks like a two layer product, cut on a waterjet or laser cutter. Nice though.