AV8R
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Posts posted by AV8R
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10 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Arwww it looks like I need a 10 spline 3.54 diff now as with the 24 spline diff fitted I've bought the wrong half shafts which all fit but there is nothing to stop oil ending up in the 24 spline flange and have since been told I should have used a 10 spline diff instead which then allows me to use the old shafts, the only other way is to buy very expensive custom shafts so think it's easier and cheaper to go the 10 spline diff way
If it's for the rear axle you might consider Stage one halfshafts. As far as i know that's a 24 spline job.
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From the LR Workshop Manual: "A total of .004" (0,1mm) of circumferential movement, measured on the outside diameter of the splines, should not be exceeded. If wear beyond this limit has taken place, a new propeller shaft complete must be fitted."
Mind to wash the parts before measuring as grease will hide a lot of play easily.
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23 hours ago, Snagger said:
At worst, you might need to notch the bell housing cross member for the front prop shaft.
I used a small diameter front propshaft from a Discovery. Lots of clearance. I hate cutting into that 50+ year old chassis so this avoided another mutilation. I needed a 1/2" filler plate as the shaft was a bit short, added it at the TC side to improve clearance even a bit more.
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My SWB doesn't have a Tdi. There's a Ford V6 in there, but it does have a LT77/230 on the Series mounts in the chassis. Some homemade plates are between the transmissions and the mounting rubbers. The rear propshaft was the same as before. Front propshaft needed a 1" extension. LT77 is the short input shaft version.
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My 88 has a Salisbury diff too, and an LT77/LT230. I could use the same shortened rear propshaft as before with the Series TC.
Very happy with this combination. I converted the LT230 to part time 4WD to keep the drive train a bit like Land Rover designed it.
Kept the 4,7:1 diff's and installed a 1,003:1 ratio in the LT230. 5th gear is now a true overdrive.
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To the best of my knowledge Series 88"WB had only 5 " wide rims. The LWB's had 5,5" wide rims.
The 6,5 " rims were only for the Forward Controls and the 109" 1 Ton version. These vehicles used 9.00 x 16" tyres . Special ratios in the transfer case was fitted to cope with the larger diameter tyre.
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I've had good service and genuine parts from John Craddock's.
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What year is your 88 ?
My 1963 was delivered as a station wagon and was the most luxurious you could get at that time and came without rear wiper. A second windscreen wiper and blinkers was an extra in those days. Mine had those from the factory. Rear wipers were not invented then
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It seems that some of the info on this topic is going to be unavailable in the near future. The site mentioned in post 3 directs you to a page with details on how to retreive it. Maybe someone with more abilities than me is able to make it available again ?
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There's a company here in the Netherlands advertizing they have them. The webpage is in dutch but the stickerset you want is part number mrc7425.
http://www.maanrover.nl/maanrover-exclusief/
Send them an e-mail in english with your request and ask for a quote. There is no price to be found on the website.
Let me know if you need more assistance as my dutch is quite well
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And YES, please keep the details/pics coming !
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You are not worried of things getting misaligned due to the heat from welding ?
The axle housing is not the easiest part to chuck up in the lathe and getting it all concentric.
BTW that Frombie steering ? Isn't that the same as the Ackermann principle?
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22 hours ago, Snagger said:
Fabricating the side panels is not going to be as easy as you imagine.
This depends on Bobzdar's garage skills. If he has acces to a large sheetmetal brake , shears and a clean sheet of aluminium ( I prefer 6061-T6) it's not that big of a deal. There's no compound curves in the panel, all straight flanges. Make up the internal profiles, bond and rivet together. Done.
If your equipment is limited to tin snips and a B&D workmate it will be near impossible to do a tidy job
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5 hours ago, Snagger said:
only the driver's door and rear door have key barrels on Series vehicles.
You are correct. Here's my 1963 LHD, the lock is the round thingie just above the handle.
Still the original doors allthough the frames have seen better times and the tops have been renewed.
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So that leaves the rear axle then . . . . . With a fresh diff to rule out, how are the hub drive flanges ?
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It is not, accidentaly, still in 4 WD ?
Handbrake properly adjusted ?
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Yes, I did think about the beadlocks but I probably will not air down the tyres enough to loose grip on the beads. I might paint some witness marks as they do on aircraft tyres/wheels to keep track of this.
Not worrying about deflations either. Inner tubes are a must with these split rims.
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4 hours ago, neil110 said:
The oil cooler thermostat look like this. Although this link says it is for the LT77 it is very similar to the unit I have fitted to my R380
Interesting. I never knew you could fit an oil cooler to the LT77.
Anybody has one ???
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16 hours ago, abosely said:
Did you need to shorten the rear propshaft with the Stumpy R380 & LT230?
I could use the same propshaft as before.
The shaft was allready shortened but this is due to the Salisbury rear axle. The Rover axle did not stand the 120 HP Ford and the 900x16 tyres I had.
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21 hours ago, jordan_meakin said:
Are they mega money?
Quite, I'm lucky to do the work on my 88 in a profesional garage.
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I have to go back some 50 years when my father had my 88 and the Safari roof. Took us some time to discover that when you pull the latch aft to open the vent, keep the latch aft while pushing the lid fully open. Release the latch and it should pop into a notch in the lid. Spring tension will now keep the lid open. Clever system but you won't find it in the owners manual.
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12 hours ago, abosely said:
So what diff ratio, 4.11, 4.56, 4.88 and do I go with 1.192, 1.222, 1.410 or 1.667 ratio in the LT230?
Go back to the Ashcroft Ratio Calculator. Go to Diff Ratio. Select "Other" In the newly opened window insert whatever ratio you want. Wasn't that hard. Was it ?
Besides the ones you've mentioned, there's also a 1: 1,003 gear set. I'm running 4,7 diffs and this 1:1,003 in the LT230. For me that's an excellent combination
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A fluid reservoir pressurizer works very well. This system puts pressure by pumping fresh brake fluid in the reservoir. As soon as a bleed screw is opened, fluid starts flowing taking air bubbles with it. The reservoir is constantly replenished from a 5 litre tank so never runs dry. Takes about 0,5 L to bleed 4 wheels. And just 20 minutes to do it.
Yes, I've got 11"TLS brakes on my 88. The 255/85R16 tyres enlarge the diameter quite a bit so larger brakes are a must.
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This topic is about tyres. Not wheels, isn't it ?
These wheels are two piece, forged aluminium, 6.50 x 16. Originally made for one of the heaviest Land Rovers, the Shorland Mk 3 and Mk 5 Armoured Patrol Vehicles.
Being two piece rims it was possible to mount a run-flat system on these. Rim lips are extra wide to better support the side walls
at zero pressure. Weight including all nuts and bolts is just 13,5 Kg. The run-flat system was optional on the APV's , guess they are pretty rare.
Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration
in Series Forum
Posted
Did some research, Stage one's do have 24 splines rear axles, but they are Salisbury. Your 3,54 diff is most likely Rover type, being in a SWB.
No problem finding the 24 splined halfshaft but LH side will be about 4 cm short