AV8R
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Posts posted by AV8R
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34 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
I must be misunderstanding ... but I though with an LT230 you wouldn’t have had that unless difflock was on?
In tight corners, what you notice in 4 WD is the rotation of the U-joints in the swivel housings. You can feel the steering wheel wobbling with each half revolution of the front halfshaft. With old time 2/4WD on tarmac you just set the free wheeling hubs to "free" and the wobbling is gone. LT230's are made for front axles with CV joints, the Constant Velocity eliminates the wobbling.
When the LT95 was introduced into the Stage 1, LR adopted the CV joints for the very same reasons (driver comfort being one of them) as they did when they designed the Range Rover.
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Ashcroft does not make the part-time kit, they only sell them. The parts are being made by AVM in Brasil.
If you want to mount it in a Series you may ask for only the actual parts that will go into the center diff as you most likely won't need the the freewheeling hubs for a Defender. Parts in the diff will be a frontoutputshaft needle bearing (most left in picture), the "counter spider"gear (second) and the shims (third) to reduce us much free play as possible.
Why go 2/4WD ? Because Series where designed for it. I even converted the single stick operation to Series style red and yellow knobs. Pulling the red knob to the rear is low range, pushing the yellow knob down connects the front outputshaft.
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Long ago we had a Series IIa 88" diesel that was fitted out with 6 volt, 120 Amp/h batteries in series to reach 12 volts. One in the regular spot under the bonnet and one under the left seat. This was standard for diesels at that time. So depending on originality and year of manufacture, this might be a posibility as well.
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Michelin still makes inner tubes. I got a fresh set of these last year for €25 each. Sorry, no picture of the tube itself, only the packaging. Can make a pic of the valve sticking out of the rim if you need one though ;-)
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Don't know anything about the reliability but the Q version seems to have thicker walled castings. The extra metal helps to reduce the noise level. Maybe something to bare in mind. . . . . . .
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I made a whole new "breakfast"panel, eliminating the part that holds the original radiator. Welded two new brackets to the front crossmember to support a V8 type Defender radiator. To get enough clearance the battery support was removed (into the LH seat base)
Then a cut-out was made into the inner fender well, like standard on the left hand side. Radiator is placed as much right as possible, clearing the original steering rods and relay on the left side. Open area on the left of the radiator will give room for an oil cooler. Fans are two stage, twin Spal electric on the front.
Picture is looking to the front. Large round black thing is the air filter housing for the 2,6L Ford V6.
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Why not make it like it is supposed to be in a proper Land Rover ?
LT77 and part-time 4WD LT230 in my 88". Yes, it all operates and is in the same position as in an original Series.
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Try van Maren in Katwijk, Netherlands. http://www.vanmarenbv.nl/ They might be able to help you out.
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4 hours ago, Snagger said:
A 1.002: LT230 (from a V8?) would fix that with 4.71 diffs, but I think they're pretty rare.
Yes, they can be found in RRC's with 3-speed automatic.
I found a brand new set of the the intermediate and final drive gears at Ashcroft's . Fitted them to a low milage 1,4:1 LT230 from a Defender whose owner wanted a 1.2:1 box and opted for a brand new Q series. It does a great job now in my Series IIa. Having the part time 4WD kit installed too, It retains the Series style drive train philosophy. Free-wheeling hubs and all. Mind you, 5th gear is like an overdrive now. On long uphill's on the highway I really need to switch to 4th to keep the engine revving in the power band.
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On 4-1-2018 at 11:41 AM, Ed Poore said:
Oiler - just a cheap inline tool oiler off eBay - oil I didn't have any, I was going to use the recommended oil for tools, but instead squirted loads of WD40 into the compressor befoer I closed it up and then I've been filling the oiler with WD40 instead...
To get stuck things going WD40 is great. Once it is all moving I clean it off real well and use the appropriate lubricants. I have found that WD40 leaves a thin coat of rust on ferrous surfaces, it is not a very good preservative. For your air compressor any thin oil will do a better job than WD40, I.E. PAS or automatic trans fluid. Air compressor oil is not very expensive.
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My 1963 SWB is running an LT77 shorty and LT230 (2 and 4 WD, 1.003:1) behind a V6 Ford. Diffs are 4,7 :1, tyres 255/85R16. All this makes for comfortable cruising and a real low low range. There's no soundproofing other than earplugs. Easy to keep up with traffic but my 88" is just over 1400Kg empty (low weight helps a lot).
I am using British Spring parabolics with HD 109 shocks up front and Disco 2 rearshocks (mounts drilled to accept the Series mounts), Longer militairy length shackles are fitted, tapered shim on the front axle to restore caster. The Pro Comp shocks that came with the springs were horrible and I returned those to the supplier after a 15 Km test ride.
Yes , it is quite a decent ride ! For a 1963 truck ! It will never be as comfortable as my 2011 daily driver but it gives me pleasure driving it, knowing I've built it this way.
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On 8-12-2017 at 9:05 AM, Snagger said:
You may find CE marked RHD lamps, which would be legal here, but of course the Chinese stick that label on anything completely fraudulently.
Doesn't "CE" stand for "Chinese Export" ?
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Just in case you do want something wider
Not cheap at €129 each, but they will look great with some 255/85R16's.
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Brand new tubeless Series looking 16x5,5" rim is RRC503600PM
There's a German company working on this type wheel in 16x8". Since you only want a 6,5" tyre stock size is best.
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16 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
I do tow a heavy trailer now and again so whatever I do it needs to be strong enough.
I have seen quite a few 1/4 chassis replacements but all of them lacked the internal reinforcements the original chassis has. In the original chassis there are angled profiles (about 25x25mm) running along the length of the lower corners to take up the forces of the lower towing attachment. The profiles curve conformal to the shape of the chassis. In replacement sections I've never seen those.
Looks like the hole in the picture is large enough to stick the camera part of your phone through so you can snap a picture from the inside and see what you've got.
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On 21-12-2017 at 4:10 PM, missingsid said:
My 2000 BMW M5 does not have a spare at all!
Most people that buy a new BMW M5 don't know how to change a wheel. They have a smart-phone to cry for help.
In a Land Rover you might go places where there is no mobile phone coverage or the AA won't venture. Some people really use their Landy to go places. Above and beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . .
My 88" leading a 110 while fording a river in the Ardennes VVV
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Just my humble opinion: I think the theory about the "fuse" is that if the drivetrain is overloaded the fuse will break. And like in an electrical circuit, you take away the overload, change the fuse and everything works like it was before.
I watched a friend's front outer halfshaft snap in an offroad situation. He parked the wheel on a treestump to keep the oil inside. Got the broken part out, the fracture in the fuse was very clean. Just two parts to remove. Put in new "fused" shaft. Continue trip within 10 minutes.
With unbreakable shafts, what else will break and how easy will it be replaced ? I think that 's what the KAM fuse is about. Again, just my 2 pence worth.
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I don't think anyone in Cuba is buying Kahn stuff
I was only kidding, off course it's all home made.
Besides, in my opinion the Kahn conversions are absolutely NOT on my wishlist. But as a way to show you've got more money than taste it's quite good.
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1 hour ago, dag019 said:
However the difference between 255/85 and 265/75 in practical terms you will notice driving the vehicle is very little. The diameter (and therefore the gearing) makes more difference to an under-powered series than the width.
It ís the same with braking. The larger the diameter, the weaker the brakes.
If your 88" still has the original 10"brake drums I strongly advice to invest in some 11" brakes from a 109. Besides the 10% larger diameter, the linings are 50% wider and both shoes per drum are leading. Late Series III already have them fitted from the factory but if yours is somewhat older it is worth checking.
I used to run true 900x16's and had no problem braking these 36" big rubber flywheels. Mind you the 900's are over 15Kg heavier, each ! There's a lot of energy stored in them at 100Km/h.
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10 hours ago, Arjan said:
For those interested, I have more pics of this conversion and others...
Yes please, very interested in more pics and information.
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4 hours ago, moeyou said:
Hi guys, I purchased my D90 converted to a 4.2 liter and I believe an LT77 (reverse is in the top left)
Would you consider changing the differential or a gear inside or even the gear?
How many RPM is the engine doing at 70 MPH in top gear?
If the engine is doing around 2700 RPM, it will be okay. Possibly the conversion from diesel to V8 was just the engine, leaving the transfer case untouched. The diesels often have a 1,4:1 ratio in the TC. V8's manual transmission mostly run with 1,2:1, automatics a 1,003:1 ratio.
If there's no tachometer in your 90 you might have peak underneath at the TC, on the back of LT230 cases is a sticker with the ratio.
Mind you, it is possible to change the ratio, fitting different gears inside. Leaving the sticker on the outside you still have no clue what's going on in there. RPM's the best way to check for proper ratio.
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Could this be one of them fancy Kahn conversions ?
Great pictures, muchas gracias !
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That ^^^ reminds me . . . . . . . .top king pins were converted to roller bearings over 35 years ago. Less friction = less effort ;-)
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10 hours ago, Snagger said:
Do you have PAS?
No, it is just the original steering box in good nick ;-) I do keep an eye on tyrepressure (2,2 Bar) and there's a lightweight engine up front. The V6 weighs about 80 Kg less compared to the Rover 4 . Off set on the rims is about 0, helps too.
11" TLS brakes from a 109 where mounted up front to cope with the larger radius wheels. Braking is very good.
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69' Series IIA Build
in Series Forum
Posted
Impressive build !