AV8R
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Posts posted by AV8R
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Kris, the pulleys look great. Keep up the good work !
I restore because the way I do it make me feel good. When I cut corners, I feel bad and will probably redo it soon. Better do it right the first time
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Measure the diameter of the bolt shank. If the diameter of the shank is 8 mm then the threads are M8. Never mind the bolt head, an M8 bolt can have a 13 mm hexagon if it is manufactured according to DIN, a 12 mm bolthead is in accordance to ISO, on newer types you may find an M8 flange head bolt for a 10 mm spanner while an M8 socket head bolt requires a 6 mm Allen key. And these are all standard bolts, nothing special. Measures the bolt shank, the only way to make sure what thread it is.
Thread pitch is regularly 0.8 for M5; 1.0 for M6; 1.25 for M8; 1.5 for M10 and 1.75 for M12.
Drill size is nominal thread diameter minus pitch. So for M6 drill 5 mm( 6-1.0=5). For M10 drill 8.5 (10-1.5=8.5). This rule works for finer pitched threads too. For instance if you ever have to tap an M10x1.0 thread your drill size needs to be 9. It really is that easy.
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The brackets are welded to the bulkhead and not available as a seperate item. Last year I had to make one as well. Seems there are more people thinking you can do without them. Not me though, it adds a lot of rigidity to the steering column. It is a bit of an awkward thingy to make as there are a few bends next to each other to match the contours of the bulkhead just above the vent opening. I ended up with bending two pieces sheetmetal with 90 ° bends, cut them to the proper dimensions and TIG weld them together so it would look like a factory bracket.
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For my 1963 IIa I would like to restore the lift up door handles. To be more precise, I would like to replace the rubber / plastic coating. Have any of you done this before ? It is not like heat shrink tubing . looks more like it is cast in situ. Any help in the proper direction is appreciated.
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Your problem , and that of just about every Defender owner, is very nicely explained in this video.
A bit lengthy maybe but at around 10:00 he comes to the solution. The watch is worth every second and the fix is simple. Mind you, this chap has a ton of interesting video's on Land Rover repairs so it might take an evening of two to watch them all.
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Does it really have to be the Rover 6 ? I have seen a 110 with a BMW straight 6, seems to be a South African model. Looked real tidy under the bonnet and sounded great. The BMW doesn't weigh that much more than the Rover 4 but has at least twice the power.
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Exmoor made me a lovely set of new covers for Defender seats installed in my 1963 IIa. Finished in period looking Elephant Hide. Real happy with it.
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Would love to see that too !
For my 1963 IIa I've got an original 1st edition workshop manual, no word about welding body panels in there. I've also got the original owners manual, no word about welding either. But it is not a big problem as if there would be anything about welding it would be the oxygen acetylene proces. With the popularity and quality of TIG nowadays I would be very reluctant to handle the flaming torch for welding.
Annealling (softening) Birmabright is a nice way to use the oxy acetylene torch. Cover the panelarea to be annealed with soot from a too rich burning torch (yellow to orange flame). Adjust the torch to a blue flame, heat the panel until the soot burns off. Let the panel cool in still air. It is now annealled.
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As long as your new alternator has a lower output as your ammeter will allow, you'll be okay. So in your case the alternator output should be less than 100 Amp.
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Once the LT77 is in place, the LT230 easily bolts up
Changing the ratio gears was also a straight swap. And as you will know, this set up gives a real nice low, Low Range. Top speed in 1st gear Low is about 8 MPH on 255/85R16's. The sticker was made to inform the person checking out the transmissions on my IIa.
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When you want to pop-rivet the new panels there's a trick to make it all flush. Make your rivets countersunk before you pull them and countersink the corresponding holes in the outerskin. The result will be near spotweld-like.
To make the rivets countersunk I drilled a 3/16" hole in a solid piece of steel using a pillar drill. Next countersink said hole with a drill the size of the rivet head, just deep enough to accept the thckness off the rivet head. To reshape the rivets you will need a flush snapper with a hole in the center to accept the pop rivet's stem, hole about 1/16" diameter and deep enough to fully insert the stem. Insert rivet in steel block, place snapper on top, give a good tap with a hammer. One flush rivet made. Off course you only have to make one steel part and one snapper.
With the same drill you used to countersink the steel, you can now countersink the new panel holes. Newly formed rivet will fit exactly and will give a more factory finish.
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18 hours ago, lo-fi said:
Also think about gear ratios. Commonly available 1.22 transfer boxes are lower than the series 1.15, negating the benefit somewhat. 1.4 doesn't work well at all on 4.7 diffs if you want to go over 50.
There's also a 1:1,003 ratio. Used in RRC's with automatic transmission. Together with 1:4,7 diff's it works real fine in my 88. 4th gear feels like top gear with a 4 speed box. 5th gear feels like an overdrive. Quite happy with this combination.
I was lucky to find a low mileage LT230 with a 1,4 ratio. The owner wanted 1,22 to improve motorway comfort and was willing to part with the 1,4 for very reasonable money. Bought a fresh set of 1,003 gears at Ashcroft and installed those together with the part time kit and larger sump.
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22 hours ago, BigJ said:
Finally the LT77 has a handbrake cable so how does that interface with the Series handbrake lever?
Hand brake on the LT230 is cable operated. The hand brake lever on my 88" IIa is rebuilt to retain the1963 look on the cabin side and work the cable underneath. Mind you, mine is a LH drive so yours will likely look different. It does take some fiddling to make it work properly but it can be done.
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Yesterday I measured up some rear springs. 90 has 155mm outside diameter and is made from 17,5 mm bar.
Regular 110 is 180 mm OD and 19,5 mm bar. 110 Wolf is 180mm OD and 22,5 mm bar. Mind you, there used to be a big gun on top of this one. Tyre pressure is marked as 4,1 bar where you normally run 2,5 to 3,0
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As far as I know a true Wolf can be loaded up to 5000 Kg GVW with 4 bar tyrepressure. The springs and dampers are really made up for that heavy weight. You think that'll be comfortable on a 90 ?
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The floorpanels are a most likely a similar Aluminium Magnesium alloy. Besides being 1,6 thick instead off 1mm it seems to have a different temper condition (heat treatment) making it harder and more difficult to bend. You'ld be surprised what an oven at 495ºC can do.
BTW In an emergency, welding rods can be made by cutting narrow strips out of some scrap panels. Just make sure you clean, clean and clean before you do any cutting, Cleaning after cutting is a lot more work as the dirt and paint is already smeared into the cut edges. This will come off when the metal is melted during welding but then it will contaminate the weld. Which you do not want.
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Land Rover aluminium panels can be very nicely TIG welded. It's present day equivalent is something like 5251 , welding rods should be something in the 5000 series by preference. Panel preparation , besides the obvious removal of paint, dirt and corrosion, may include joggling the edge of the repair area. The joggle stiffens the edges , makes it possible to make a stronger lap joint and reduces warping. Works for bonding a patch panel too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Joggler-Panel-Flanging-And-5mm-Hole-Punch-Tool-For-Sheet-Metal-Repair-/121033873040
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20 hours ago, Shackleton said:
Care to take a stab at exactly what they're from?
Model A Ford is a popular car with such a radiator cap. Being popular makes it a bit more afFORDable ;-) so I would take my chances on the A.
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Besides copper for brake pipes there's also an alloy called Cunifer. A small percentage of nickel is present in this, keeping it free from the green corrosion that might occur on 100% copper. Very pleasant material to work with, bends and flares nicely. The material of choice for those in the know since decades.
As for the flexible pipes, Goodridge makes a nice, affordable set specific for Land Rovers with braided stainless steel covers and teflon liners.
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Just watched Episode 19 of your series. Very entertaining as usual.
Didn't want to spoil your little quiz on YT but those dogbone radiator caps were easy .
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One day I was looking at someones 110 and noticed a peculiar stance on his left front wheel. So we started checking wheel nuts and ended with finding the 7 bolts holding the swivel housing to the axle were loose. Some a bit more than others but all of them needed attention, 2 were replaced.
And the driver was sobre ! Just a sloppy mechanic . . . . . . . . . .
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You're doing a great job, Abosely !
Keep posting
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On 18-2-2018 at 2:47 PM, BigJ said:
Does fitting the LT77 with a 2.25 engine allow the standard series tunnel to be retained? Is the gear lever in the same position?
The LT77 is a bit taller and wider than the Series box. The gear lever is in about the same position. The turret with the 3-4 bias springs however make it quite a bit larger than the Series lever. I installed a 90/110 LT77 tunnel so it still has the boxy looks of a Series . . . . . sort off.
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Sometimes you have to improvise a bit . . . . . . . . . .
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Steering column to bulkhead brace - needed?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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The rest seems to be still on the bulkhead. Just weld that bit on and make it look like the tab in Ian's photo.