minivin
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Posts posted by minivin
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Weird, IPC says RTC 3510 upto 1980 for 88" front and back hub. Front hub from 1980 onwards utilises RTC 3511.
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Not sure if this should go in the military or series forum, but here goes:
a friend of mine on the D90 American list has a 101 and steering problems, his question is
anyone got good ideas?
The bearings are a mixture of series and rangie, IIRC the spare parts list is available on the FC101 website. I recently brought a new top bearing and IIRC it was a RRC item.
Would recommend your chap get over to http://www.101club.org
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Munks, did you leave the original clutch fly wheel spigots fitted? these jammed by flywheel to the bell housing when I fitted mine?
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aiy, I don't know why they even designed it that way, it's just bad design from the start. The only good bit seems to be the cast inverted sun gear that mates with the rear output sun gear very nicely.
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Well, what can I say, but the Bearmach 2WD conversion for a LT230 is tripe!.
I've had one in an LT230 of roller 1.003 ratio for 2k miles now and it has been awful from the start. The start of my troubles and suspicion started with the Ashcroft bearings I got which unfortunately to say, were a lower spec. than what I normally use. At this point I will say that I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to engineering, so I will point out that I don't have an issue with Ashcrofts at this point.
Anyhoo, from the begining after matting an LT230R to an R380 I had a vibration from the front propshaft that I put down to being a bad quality front output bearing. After having the R380 out for a warrentee job, I stripped the LT230R to solve the output bearing to only find the bearing was OK........ I then felt the Bearmach bearing for the support of the front output shaft to find that it was sloppy!.
OK, here comes the technical part. The special beairng for the Bearmach 2WD isn't a bearing! well, it is a bearing, in the fact it is steel againt steel, but it is configured as follows:
A steel inner race with splines for the output shaft is fitted with a outer circlip. This circlip is then used to retain the inner race into an outer race via two spacers that are pressed into the outer race against the circlip. The inner diameter of these spacers clears the inner race by 18 thous of an inch, while being an interference fit in the outer race.
This means that the inner race is very sloppy and allows the output shaft to move around like a phaelic object in a shirt sleeve. No ball bearing will stop this sort of action and results in my cause a severe vibration at 70mph that led me to thinking that I had a wheel loose and was about to depart the road via the first tree!
So, to solve this the original item can not be used. The original outer race is a top-hat form that is pressed in place of the planetary gear for the front output shaft, this item is scrapped and the diff housing is slightly machined to remove the 45^0 taper at the end. A thrust washer is placed at this end for good design and the orignal inner race is machined down to fit to the original dimensions of the planetary gear. Another thrust washer is then fitted on the other side of the modified gear and a retainer spacer is fitted to go against the spider shafts:
This week I'll be getting the bits machined by an ol' friend of 50 years experience in the trade, but as in his words, "theory is good, but practice is the only proof of whether it works".
To be honest now, if someone was to ask about fitting an LT230 to a series vehicle, I'd say, "either fit CV joints anf the kit, or buy a defender-esq vehicle". The kit that is on the market is of poor design and quality, once again my vehicle is off the road and I have events coming up where I need it. I'm happy to see that the likes of X-Eng et cetera are actually producing decent kit for the market!.
Apologies if my dyslexia has come through somewhere, but thought I'd publish my problems
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It'll be stronger but some front Salisbury parts are hard to find due to the rarity, and I'm not 100% convinced Land Rover have made much that stands up to 37's and abuse as stock - 101 axles spring to mind, Bathtub was running them before he went to Mogs. They're salisbury but different internals than Series / Defender ones, I think the UJ/CV (?) is much bigger and presumably that means other weaknesses were ironed out too.
It could work, or it could be a lot of pain for very little gain. Have a search for "axle swap", most combinations have been covered on here.
101 axles are lower ratio as well, 5.57:1 rather than 4.7:1 or 3.54:1
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Sounds like a good place to me, I'll hopefully be there selling some LWT bits
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Alternatively, if the bike has a fuel tap on the fuel tank, it will more than likely have a vacuum feed from the carburettor inlet manifold to open a valve when the engine is running. If this valve sticks open, fuel can get past a slightly sticky carburettor needle valve and flood the engine. Worth checking this before tearing into the carbs..........
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how many miles on it? more than likely the dog teeth are worn and it is no longer holding in
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I thought Old Sodbury had already been killed off?
Well they seem to have clutched defeat from the jaws of victory, for pity sake why Beaulieu of all the thieving scum places in the world, having been there a number of times for classic motorcycle autojumbles the prices triple and more to cover the stall prices! Now being in the process of stripping a S2 lightweight and me and a mate having a few spare bits, I'll either list them on the forums or Ebay than pay £50 for a stand.
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only way I've found is a sanding disc attachment in an angle grinder, the army slap the paint on to the point that I nearly had to spend £150 to have a SIII door bottom stripped on my 109 due to my local powder coater taking 1.5 hours with a diesel powered air compressor trailor that burnt £100 of diesel an hour! He refused to charge me for the door, but asked I get as much paint off the rest of the items before I returned them again
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Got onto the Beaulieu website and found the prices for stands, £56+! doubt sodders has managed to negotiate much of a cheaper price. Prepare for Beaulieu to kill old Sodders........
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Fecking wahahahahahahahaa:
Booking DetailsTrade / Jumble Stand Space (includes 1 exhibitor / 1 showground vehicle pass)
uncovered space (3.65m x 4.57m / 12ft x 15ft) £56.50
individual marquee inc stand space (3.05m x 4.7m / 10ft x 15ft) £204
space in large marquee (3.05m x 3.05m / 10ft x 10ft) £97.50
shop unit inc stand space (4m x 4m / 13ft x 13ft) £154
compared to £15+ ...... squell little piggie!
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Last time I had a R380 apart the lever-action of trying to spread the input shaft/mainshaft away from the layshaft meant that fifth gear was trying to force itself together. Nearly impossible without damaging components such as the intermediate cover bearings.
If you contact Ashcrofts they maybe able to do a cheap rebuild of just the 4th gear and the associated layshaft nut that must be removed to remove the layshaft and give acces to removing the input shaft
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nay probs
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Oh yeah, forgot to say, the 4.7 diff, 235/85x16 tyres and 20T driven gear in my LT230R has resulted in my speedo being only about 2% slow! shweet
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JW, I concur with dave with the following calculation:
33 tyres
103.67" circm.
611.155 rev/mile of wheel
2902.986 rev/mile of gearbox o/p shaft
based on LWB speedo, 2.084:1 speedo drive needed, meaning 19T. Therefore an 20T gear out of a RRC 3 speed LT230R will do the job as best as possible, if I got that right........
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For the LT230 speedo drive gear i take it more teeth mean a slower reading speedo
Yes, as the gear is driven, it will rotate slower
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A finger of fudge for the first person who tells me the correct gear for my truck with 35" tyres and 5.99:1 diffs
from my calcs, a 35" tyre gives a circumference of appr 109.956"
63360" per mile means the wheel rotates 576.23 rev/mile
with 5.99 diffs the gearbox output shaft rotates 3451 rev/mile
based on a S3 LWB speedo needing 1392.7 rev/mile, this would mean your speedo drive would need to be 2.478:1, therefore with the standard 9T drive gear, a 22.3T driven gear would be needed. So 22T if I've sussed that right
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Guys, remember this thread:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...speedo&st=0
just having to do calculations for 101 speedos, some thwack smashed mine and I'm hoping I can use a SWB speedo head as the only thing that is out from my calculations at present is the speedo drive I will shortly try and do the calc and see what comes up J&J
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Good on ya mate, that's one great project to work on.
What is the matter with the finish? Is it a bad paint job, tipex or guano?
cheers all
Nah, some person of limited thought capacity thought it would be a good idea to put a rare vehicle in a paint balling site as a prop, even though it was only the fuel pump that had packed-up....... and then there was the three lightweights we also picked up as well
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cheers guys
the chassis was so good, and after dragging it out into the open the swivel chromes look so clean, it would have been criminal to have left it where it was! I think my first modification will be an LPG kit 
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Just put the deposit down on a 101 Ambulance, been sat around for a few years after the fuel pump gave up the ghost
Now the long slog starts to get it road worthy
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They're definitely more than 50kg.
aiy, I resorted to using a gert pole to move mine around, and only lifting one end at a time to fit it back into my chassis.
Bolt-on gearbox cross member
in Series Forum
Posted
The military chassis has gussets under the rails that the cross member fits into and something along the lines of either 9/16UNF or M10 bolts are fitted through
Gusset at bottom left:
Cross member in place:
Just ignore the R380 and LT230R