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minivin

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Posts posted by minivin

  1. My first ride in a Landrover was a SI ragtop when I was in the Scouts, late '50s, early '60s. It was somewhere in the Lake District, p*****g down with rain and God knows how many of us were crammed in the back. It was exciting at the time but now I'm in my own late 50s I think it's the last vehicle I'd want to drive. I borrowed one a few years ago and wasn't sorry to return it!

    My own view on Classic cars (having owned quite few) is that anything over 50 years old should be kept as standard as possible, any mods being easily reversible (anyone who retains trafficators instead of fitting flashers wants sectioning).

    I've extensively updated my SIII 88, but kept the original appearance, all Landrovers have an aesthetic appeal to me.

    Us in the Vincent HRD world have the same attitude, all the long distance people have fitted fully sprung subframes for luggage, as well as disc brake conversions, digital ignition systems, mikuni/amal concentric mk II carburettors et cetera et cetera. However if any of the owners ever wanted to return their bikes back to standard as of 1946-55, all they'd have to do is un-bolt the bits and bolt standard items back on :)

  2. yep my bad, meant forging rather than casting, problem of running around sorting bits out yesterday and not sitting down and engaging brain before typing ;)

    There are no obvious signs of welding, seems to be a one piece forging that has been machined on all faces.

    The local LR place has a RRC in with a 1.003 box, wonder how much they would charge for the gear :unsure:

  3. On the LT230, the turret housing on top of the front output housing that houses the hi-lo selector shaft and actuating fork. Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the O rings that go at either end of this selector shaft?

    Just trashed them while removing the shaft after it had corroded into the housing :rolleyes:

  4. Oh dear, while cleaning the parts ready to assemble when I have the bell housing and gearbox mounts made, I found that the intermediate gear has a casting imperfection:

    DSCF3152.jpg

    It would seem that during service the imperfection has come out and allowed a portion above one of the roller bearings to become proud. The thrust washers have done a good job of polishing the outer face flat, but I'm cautious of the fact that this blister may proceed further.

    So, as this is a 14D suffix A 1.003 LT230R box, as it seems to have couped with life so far, should I just fit it and forget it. Or as there is the potential it can still blister further and take the thrust washer out (which can no longer be sourced, I purchased the last two in the country!), should I source a new old stock item

    Bugger :unsure:

  5. I'd go with the switch for starters, the other possibilities are that the idler gear shaft has sheared, or.... well.... i'm not overly sure as most other things would result in some rather nasty meshing noises as you drove along to get upto 5th gear :unsure:

  6. Yep a PITA all right :( IIRC the 200TDi bellhousing is 7 3/4", while the 300TDi is 12". However with the 1" increase in gearbox length on the R380 and LR moving the engine forward, there just aint no easy datum to work from unless you sit down and look at both a 200TDi vehicle and a 300TDi vehicle and measure everything :rolleyes:

  7. i threw some out a couple of weeks back :rolleyes:

    typical ;) luckily the Land Rover Orphanage have possibly found the last two in the country and they are now in the post. Think I'll produce some manufacturing drawings and see if I can get some commissioned through my friendly engineering company. Then see if anyone wants any made :)

  8. Thanks but no body anywhere has them in stock, hence my getting one on eBay - 1 supplier told me this was because Mountney have lost the casting and are having to re tool - how true this I don't know.

    Supposedly Land Rover have also lost a lot of tooling and drawings, hence why I'm struggling to find anywhere in the country the intermediate shaft thrust washers for a LT230R suffix A box :huh: think I've found some though so fingers crossed as mine are knackered

  9. If you have a 14D transfer case (1.003 ratio), the drive gear for the speedo is a five start item, while the driven gear is a 20T item (frc3310 blue), giving a ratio 2.222:1. If this is the case, then to increase the ratio by 19%, this would result in theoretically a ratio of 2.64418:1, and therefore a 24T (frc3313 red) would bring the speed down on the speedo.

    All in theory, if you can track a red cog down and have a play ;)

  10. Ok, I decided to break out the multimeter and chased through the wiring with reference to the wiring diagram in Westerns link.

    All seemed to bell out right with resistances and continuity in the right places, so I wired the live to the white wire terminal (furthest left) and the neutral wire to the black wire (2nd from left), crossed my fingers, and flicked the mains button..... it worked! :i-m_so_happy:

    Thanks for that link Western, was pooping myself about blowing this motor up by accident :unsure:

    Another good link on induction motor wiring the link below, gives methods for direction reversal:

    http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip11.htm

  11. yup, just found the wiring diagram in the bottom left corner, unfortunately as I can't follow the wires into the case to determine which is what, I don't fancy wiring up to a four way chock block when the diagram is for a five way which straight away has the alarm bells going :unsure:

  12. An LT230 doesn't do this to it's Hi/Lo gear system :o :

    DSCF2967.jpg

    DSCF2968.jpg

    DSCF2969.jpg

    I really do not understand why LR didn't increase the length of the dog gear splines to the full length of the gear (rather than under-cutting them within the gear) and then spreading the gear teeth 50/50% between the shaft splines and the Hi gear splines. Would have then increased the gear teeth width from about 1/4" to 3/8" and help prevent the gear from skewing as it so obviously does at present. The above was the deciding factor on me converting mine as I didn't fancy having to replace the transfer case again in the future due to those parts wearing out :rolleyes:

  13. Anybody know how this motor is wired up?

    DSCF3115.jpg

    It's a single phase motor, starter capacitor is the lower item, continuous run capacitor is to the top, I'm guessing the Live and Neutral are connected in on the spare two terminals, but don't fancy blowing it up if it actually turns out that one of the wires has to be taken to one of the other terminals and the starter switch bridging something else :huh:

    no other terminal idents, wiring diagrams, diddly squat, I wanted to fit it tonight :(

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