minivin
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Posts posted by minivin
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^^^
But if you are talking about panel gaps on Defenders then I don't think 1970's arguments over union ethics, management blah, blah, blah come into it, you really can't compare the vehicle to a modern computer designed one built by robots as the thing is still largely based on something sketched out on the back of a fag packet in the late '40's.
Like I say nothing is perfect.
Aiy, and even these days with CAD they screw it up still, I couldn't get the connectors onto the crash data recorder on one aircraft as the mechanicals had shot off ahead and got their side designed, produced and fitted, had to then get a company make us some special connector back shells to give us enough room to fit the connectors and then bolt the recorder down, rather than scrap umpteen thousands worth of design and materials. Clever init!
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Well, I don't trust them!
The stated price for shipping and what they will charge you are two different things!
Todd.
Thta's if the right item turns up within a fortnight......
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Tony = White90, like I said it was just something he reported, I too wouldn't expect much vacuum at the top of a snorkel but stranger things have happened.
The induction noise at my snorkel is "interesting" to say the least
from my calculations based on a 3.5V8 idling at 1kRPM and an inlet snorkle diameter of 3.5"D, I came up with a column of air as follows:engine capacity 3500 cc 213.5831 Inches^3
Engine Speed 1000 rpm
Inlet Diameter 3.5 Inches
Inlet Area 38.48451001 Inches^2
Air Volume 1779.859167 Inches^3/s
Air Speed 46.24871582 Inches/s
Naturally with a TDi it would be less, but it gets you thinking what the air speed is at something like 4500RPM
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I concur on the fuel economy, my ex boss had a SIII SWB Station Wagon running on a 2.25P, he did a few tweaks to the engine, as well as fitted a more modern Lucas digital ignition system out of a montego that needed the advance curve tweaking (more advance needed!) and fitted 3.54:1 diffs. result was that he could achieve 25MPG on the motorway at 70mph!.
Insurance wise, Adrian Flux! I only passed my test two years ago when I was 23 and I'd just finished the rebuild of my 109 (had a motorcycle license since I was 17 and riding sportsbikes et cetera I didn't really have a need for a car......), I contacted AF the day after my test and they happily took me on with the insurance being as follows:
Series III 109 ex military
2.5 Normally Aspirated Deisel
Modifications: Parabolic springs
NCB: Nil
Driving License Years: Nil
Premium: TPFT unlimited mileage, 500 quid or there abouts (I forget)
I then six months later fitted a 3.5 Rover V8 and their response was "everyone fits them, that'll be an extra 50 quid", then a front disc brake conversion with the response of "wise conversion, no change to premium" and finished off with a defender gearbox conversion that also had the same response.
You've got to play the game
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Hi
Have a look in the back of the bike mags, there are a few wheel specialists who can work magic with alloy wheels, got to be worth a phone call?
Mike
Aiy, just thinking that, good heating, roll reforming and then normalising would not make it perfect, but make for a good wheel. Plenty of specialists out there and IIRC Michealdever at Popham do it or get it done.
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darn, my foot wells aint standard any more, however it's only the V8 cut-outs that are the major difference, I'll keep my eyes open for the future as they aint much more than bog standard mates from what I can see
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I think the ratios were pretty standardised with the R380, unlike the LT77, but as stated above best ask Ashcrofts!
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Rob (minivin)'s 109 is one of the best examples you'll see of a meticulous restoration with some very well done modifications.
ooooh! what you after?
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Well what can I say, from this:
to this:
to this:
Took me 18 months, and being a aircraft designer I also had access to the workshops at work amongst other specialists since I rebuild classic motorbikes. If you want to do something in 3 months I would recommend buying a half decent 2.5NAD 90 as it won't be such a heap to start off with and the parts funnily enough are more plentiful these days as Series parts are starting to dry up on certain things.
Oh and 109's are not bad in corners, they're actually more controlled when you get the back end sliding, much fun at my local roundabout
also the tracking in a straight line is better due to the longer wheelbase ie less fatigue on long motorway jaunts -
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...me/homepage.php
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...es/holders1.php
Not much on the blade fuse side for single connection, but plenty of alternatives at VWP
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good point
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would do, but I don't have a front prop at present, as, well, I sorta ordered a new prop from the Prop shaft Clinic, and got the length wrong by one inch...... so I had to send it back just before Christmas
dunno whether it will turn up after boxing day or not...... -
So, ummm, where is it???
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63.5mm, or 2.5" is a standard size which you may be able to get from intercooler people such as on Ebay et cetera. Got the 1D 90 degree alloy bends for my snorkel from an intercooler shop
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<following on from the Father Ted theme>
Feck!
</>
Sorry to read about this Si, don't get on the computer that much to hear about things happening
good luck with your new build! -
Very nice work!! Wish I had the skills and facilities to do things like that.
Would make retirement a lot more interesting.
a lot of it is knowing who can do some of the jobs for you, and having a decent selection of tools
I work out of a 6' x 6' shed with a pillar drill, bench grinder, a L shaped bench bolted solidly to the walls and a selection of taps, dies, et cetera. Luckily I can get access to mills and lathes which is an added bonus, but I must get my lathe together that's in the motorcycle shed 
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Very neat job, a great upgrade for any seris, What input shaft did you use on the R380?
I used the standard R380 input shaft for mating to a 200TDi, but lathed the nose down so that it would mate to the V8 without having to have a spigot adapter (3/4" instead of 7/8" diameter
Great work, minivin!Cheers Sascha
Cheers
I see another 109! -
Hmm.......
You want to make another one?
Better ask Rogue
Nice looking fabrication work.Whilst you may have made the front and rear faces of the bellhousing parrallel, with cut and shut bellhousings you should really cut the front off an old gearbox, bolt that to the bellhousing and in turn bolt the bellhousing to the engine. Then check concentricity with a magnetic base dial indicator on the flywheel and the plunger of the dial gauge in the bearing bore of the gearbox front. Anymore than a .004'' total gauge reading, top to bottom, side to side will lead to a short life for the front bearing and possible popping out of 4th gear, particularly on reco short shaft boxes with snug preloads.Bill
Yep, totally agree!, unfortunately I didn't want to go disturbing the engine and removing it, so I was very particular about measuring and jigging the two parts together before welding and got a friend to weld it who, well, spent the day on works pay welding it up for me
After that I measured a slight difference on gearbox mounting face on the surface plate, so got it skimmed to bring it true.nice work rob, why didn't you just use the hi/low/difflock lever from a defender though?unfortunately if I had of gone down that route it would have come up through the seatbox and would have meant some serious chopping of the seatbox, and as well I like the Series controls, it baffles the hell out of when they quickly look in and see what looks to be a standard vehicle, with a five speed cluster shown on the gear knob
Good work!My V8 on Series gearbox needed the bulkhead modifying but your conversion looks much neater
very neat work - nice one guysAlthough I personally think that FridgeFreezer's 109 is the most badass, coolest series LWB ever made; I applaud your engineering and fabrication skills. If I wasn't marrying into the Great Basin family; I would be shipping all of my Rovers back to their homeland, to come play with you guys. Everything I have been trying to do to my IIa 88", all these redneck americans, tell me it's not worth doing. But you guys over the pond have done half of them already. All heil the house of flying spanners. LOL. I am now reinvigorated to keep building my 4.0 DII V8, with series III gearbox and t-case. Thank you for that.Cheers guys, much appreciated
And it's even had it';s first outing
Same again tomorrow
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Minivin,
looks very tidy. Must have taken a few hours. Interested in your short bellhousing - did you make up a jig so that the G/box input shaft was still central in the flywheel?
Adrian
Yep, Rogue did that for me the star that he is
Wow. You make me want to reactivate "past 88-SIII-times"The rear left mount, i.e the one for the gearbox looks like it is too much in "shear load" ??
Yep, it was like that due to the LT230 not being fitted and it's respective mount. The LT230 was "jacked" during the jigging of the second mount so the loading on that rubber has been relieved
That reminds me, I really must finish my transmission tunnel
can't you bodge something on your 109 to make me feel better? 
<cough> you don't think I'd show the bits I bodged
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I don't get on any of the forums that often these days, think the last time I was on here was a few weeks ago, anyhoo the 109 is nearing completion (again) after a long slog to get it back together
For those that have forgot, V8+LT77+Series Transfer Case conversion+rolling burnout past a Nissan Warrior (bet he's never seen a Series III go that fast past him before)=blown up LT77 <doh>
So out came the box and an agonising choice to fit an R380.
Initially Aschrofts were brought onto the matter and they supplied a reconditioned box (late piccie as the bell housing is already made)
Me and a few others couldn't track down a stubby bell housing, so through my efforts, Rogue Troopers and a mate of his, we cut-and-shut a LT77 bell housing for the job
Previously the LT77 extension housing was cut about a bit to clear the gearbox mount off of the Series TC, this time I decided to change it and have it come direct off the R380 ala Defender et cetera. So a Series mount was chopped and used as a jig since I knew how far the LT77 and adapter plate moved the mounting hole:
Job done:
And swiftly fitted:
Next came fitting the R380 as an initial point so I had a datum to work with with the rest of the system:
A tab was welded onto the bell housing ala Series for the hi/lo lever
The Series TC conversion was dumped at this point and a 1.003 LT230R was acquired off of a friend cheap as I had sold him a 1.222 cheap for his D90
Bearings, seals and gaskets from Ashcrofts, it was reconditioned:
It was then offered up to act as the jigging point for the other gearbox mount, a bit of material was removed off the bottom of the diff housing, but it cleared quite nicely
The offside mount was then made out of an old Series mount being chopped, a rectangular plate on the LT230R diff housing, and some lengths of 1/4x1" strip cut and profiled to shape to triangulate it as the two plates were at different levers.
With this bracket done, the lot was then fitted:
Via a pair of rose joints and some stainless steel rod, the hi/lo lever was linked:
and a bell crank assembly has been made for the diff lock (as the LT230R has been converted to 2WD with selectable 4WD) which I will finish and fit this weekend. This will be mounted upside down under the floor panel:
Original floor panel refitted and the hi/lo back in it's right place, now just to fit the Rover 800 disc brake calliper for the hand brake (ala Tonk) that I have retained off the old Series TC after making a new mounting bracket, diff lock, and I think that's it
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Yes, definatly bought one. FTC 4018, with gearbox was 825 + VAT.
Will be collecting before Billing.
G.
Well done! You've achieved what a lot of us have been trying for ages
I unfortunately brought mine from Ashcrofts at ~£500+VAT, and only a week later saw one on Ebay with a bell housing sell for £550 
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If the rumour is untrue, how come 'Gazzar' just bought one???
Al Poirot.
I hope he's ordered the right one then
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Just had an email from Dave at Ashcrofts, the rumour is untrue unfortunately for those who still need one
Not yet, still busy with making gearbox mounts, control linkages et cetera. But once I have finished it I'll try and get something written up as at present the nearside fabricated mount works a treat, and the offside one shouldn't be too much of an issue so I'll be retaining my standard chassis mounts
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Jesus - where the hell did they find those????????
Al.
That's what I want to know as well, spent a month or so going back and forth getting this one made
However it's in now
from my calculations based on a 3.5V8 idling at 1kRPM and an inlet snorkle diameter of 3.5"D, I came up with a column of air as follows:
dunno whether it will turn up after boxing day or not......
can't you bodge something on your 109 to make me feel better? 
I unfortunately brought mine from Ashcrofts at ~£500+VAT, and only a week later saw one on Ebay with a bell housing sell for £550 
Part Number for throttle peddle pivot?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Does anyone know the part number for the pin that goes through the throttle peddle and mounting bracket for a defender-esq vehicle? it looks to be 5/16" dia. by 2" long with a 1/16" clevis pin through it to hold it in place, but I can't be fussed to make one......