Andy J

So i had my first headlight bulb failure since getting my TD5. Ok, just get a new bulb and pop the bonnet and do the business i thought! Oh no, LR in their wisdom have made it much more challenging than that on the TD5. So with a bare metal Disco II, i have to get a cross headed screw driver, remove 3 screws on the grill, and then 3 on the actual headlight in question, 1 of which is hidden by the grill (class thinking there mr LR designers)! BUT! The car i bought also came with an A-Bar (rubbery one) and headlight protectors - so i also have to remove these to get at the darned screw to get the headlight out. Now of course bulbs would normally blow in broad daylight whilst your car is sat outside your garage with a full workshop at your disposal, rather than when it is cold, dark, rainy and miserable in the winter whilst you are away from home! I kid you not it took me 1.5 to 2 hours to change 1 god damned headlamp bulb, all because the engine bay is too tight to allow you to get in behind the bulb and replace (as with D1 models) and the people who designed the A-bar use allen key headed nut and bolt combos that fail to undo without turning the inaccessible nuts. I even think its an official LR a-bar and it covers access to the screw(s) in question. Aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh! Rant over but as you can imagine i would like to remove the A-bar permanently, along with the headlight protectors so that the next time that this inevitably happens i can do it in half-hour :-) However this leaves me with 2 nice holes on the front of each wing which were put there to mount the headlight protectors onto. Are there any plugs i can buy that will match the paintwork or any other solutions that people are aware of that i can fill these holes with? Thanks Andy

Mine does the same so it sounds like it is normal and nothing to worry about. Still curious as to what it is though :-) Andy

Thanks - mine is an 04 model so would fit with this. It doesnt look as if there are any severed connections anywhere either, just struck me as a bit odd. Cheers Andy

Hi, in juat diubg ny first service of my TD5, i got to the fuel filter behind the rear nearside wheel and discovered that it didnt have a host of electronic connectors attached to the bottom (as per the pictures in the tech archive). Is this normal for some models of TD5's or have they been removed/hidden (what do they do anyway)? I replaced the filter anyway, no obvious problems - just curious as to what is missing. If it is just additional and unnecessary complexity then im not bothered :-) Cheers Andy

Well i finally got the little begger off. The breakthrough came when i tried an impact driver with a 6 sided socket. When i tried just the six sided socket and an extension bar, the socket was still starting to slip and tear the bolt head. The short sharp wallop of a lump hammer on the impact driver broke it loose without too much difficulty. Many thanks for everyones help Cheers Andy PS: If i could get my hands on the moron/gorilla that put it on that tight (i suspect with air tool) i would over torque his neck :-)

So is it meant to be a 16mm Head and not 17mm? Anyone know the correct socket size? Maybe the head is mangled such that it appears the 16 is to small and im just being too timid getting on?

Just realised i invented a new socket with 5 sides :-) I will of course use a six-sided socket as they are easier to find. Thanks Andy

Thanks for the replies - i have been trying with a 12 point socket and extension but that just keeps slipping. I will try and find a 5 sided socket and have another go. Im a little worried that i snap the head off using the extension bar - having done this with other similarly stuck bolts in the past. I similarly suspect the washer hasnt been put back on! So looks like plan of attack will be . Heat and Cold, 5 sided socket and extension bar . If above fails, try similar but with new bold welded on I'll let you know how i get on Cheers Andy

I need some advice - i just decided to do a service of my recently acquired TD5 (engine filters and oil) but stumbled at the first hurdle. It seem that whoever performed the last service has over torqued the drainplug on the oil sump and it looks as though someone has also had a go at getting it off (some of the bolt edges scuffed). I tried a 17mm socket on it but it wont budge before the socket starts to slip. Can anyone give me some advice on where to go from here. I can imagin absolute worst may be to have to drill the damn thing out but that has so many hairy pitfalls (expensive) id like to avoid it as a route. All advice welcome Thanks Andy

Hi Rob and Thanks I previously could only find info about this problem on older models - hence my post. I think the mechanisms look identical from what i've seen so far (in terms of how they work anyway) Here's a website that shows exactly how to do a replacement for the rear window. http://www.discoweb.org Select the TECH header and then search for the topic "Rear Window Regulator"... The front mechanism has the double arm, much like the one i did. Another thread here has description of a DIY fix for the same problem and a follow up talks about the front mechanism. The only problem with this when i looked at mine was that once you had tried raising/lowering the window when the problem first happens, the arms get bent beyond the point of ever getting them completely right again. Hence i went and bought a new one - why not, it was only £25 - saved a lot of hassle and it will work perfectly. Cheers Andy

Hi, I just bought myself an 04 plate with 45k on the clock. It is a Landmark edition (kind of top of the range i think) and has all the refinements - cd-changer, great sound system, air con, electric sunroofs, mirrors and heated windscreen (joy!) Runs like a dream, get around 34mpg and is a really comfy car to be in. Granted, the more complex items such as EAS installed, the more costly the fixes will be. for this reason some prefer to buy more standard models (coils etc.). Also you tend to get the 18" alloys on the Landmark model, which may be comparatively expensive with standard sizes. In terms of what to look for, based on my experience with previous models, i was particularly interested in - checking for backlash in the drive system/suspension. Anything significant shouldnt be there on a low mileage car and will be an irritation to you - check the gearbox hasnt been mashed by (ahem) a school run driver. I.e. you can change up and down throughout the range without difficulty - Check the high - lo gearbox works - look for oil leaks underneath - lift the dipstick and check the engine oil isnt milky etc (sign of a blown gasket) - If you get a hi spec model, check all electrical items (all windows, hill descent, off road, air con, sunroofs, mirrors etc) - Make sure you get one with 2 keys AND all the LR security codes incase you ever have to disconnect the battery. Will cost you around £150 to replace all this plus the inconvenience of a visit to a dealer They really are a bargin at the moment - hold out for a good one! The only problems (minor) i have had with mine are an intermittent problem with the light bulb on the clock and having to replace the passenger side window mechanism. Good luck Andy

Thanks - lesson learnt, and image sizes ammended accordingly! Cheers Andy

I recently had to replace the regulator on the front passenger window as a result of the original nylon rollers disintegrating (a common problem apparently). Rather than try to manufacture replacement rollers it was much easier to buy a whole new mechanism (regulator) and not that expensive - replacement sourced from ( Britparts ) Step 1 - remove the inside door panel. 7 cross head screws and then prise off using a flat head screw driver. Be relatively gently with prising the panel away and work around the whole panel bit by bit to avoid breaking any of the nylon fixings. Once the panel is mostly loose, disconnect the two speaker cables. The door, with polythene cover Step 2 - Disconnect the power connector to the motor for the window mechanism. This is just below the door release - there is a access hole in the door skin, you will just have to cut away some of the plastic to get to it Step 3 - Lower the window slightly and support (so that it doesnt suddenly drop when you start disconnecting things). I used some rope and a plastic grip thingy (technical term :-)) Step 4 - Remove the 5 8mm bolts (in red in image) to release the old mechanism from the door skin. These are marked in Red below (Note - one of them is hidden under the tape) Step 5 - Lower the window to the point you can undo the two 8mm bolts fixing it to the winding mechanismand wiggle the old mechnism out (motor and all) The old gubbed mechanism - see the bent arms and missing rollers! Contrast with the new one (Note the roller is now a sqaure block that slides up and down the runner) Step 6 - remove the motor from the old mechanism to the new one. You will need a T30 six point security Torx bit. Not the standard 5 point bit. motor fitted to new mechanism Step 7 - Refit the new mechanism to the door body first and attach the electric connector to the motor. Step 8 - Re-attach the window with the two remaining 8mm bolts to the new regulator. You will have to fiddle about a bit to get the mechanism in the right position but it isnt too difficult. Step 9 - test the window raises and lowers as expected Step 10 Refit the door panel - Job done The process may be similar on other models from what i have seen on other forums but gives you an indication of what needs to be done. All in all it was pretty straight forward and i didnt skin my knuckles at all. Most time was spent nipping out to Halfords for the security Torx bits. If you think ive missed anything or have any questions, please drop me a line Cheers Andy

Hi, i have a small but irritating problem with the clock light in my Disco. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt. Clearly the bulb is ok but has anyone experienced this before and know how to fix it? Is it one of those common faults (hopefully) that has a relatively easy answer - or have i just bought a Friday afternoon build :-) Thanks Andy

So as a rule, do chains generally have a longer lifespan than belts? Also, will i be able to tell it is knackered, before it breaks and ruins the engine, when the time comes? Im completely oblivious to the pro's/con's of a chain belt but im starting to get the feeling it should last longer (yes/no)? Thanks Andy

Hi, im curious to know if anyone has experience of changing a timing chain on a TD5 engine? Im not even sure how often it should be replaced, im just going on my experience of belts for the 200/300Tdi's and assuming its the same interval. It looks like you have to drop the oil sump as part of the process - is this so? Is it a job that a mere mortal can do? Thanks Andy

Well i seem to be out on a limb here but i recently bought an 04 plate D2 Manual and im getting around 34 mpg consistently. I do always just potter along at the 60 mph mark as i find that a comfortable speed for the car. I also think it has had some re-mapping done as there is a reciept in the paperwork that came with it. Only had it 4 weeks but im finding it pretty close to the MPG i got with my previous 300Tdi - i think it has more to do with driving style and the type of runs you do - i have certainly got a lot lighter on the right foot over the last few years... Andy

If you are lucky, your new CV joint will be threaded down the centre on the output side. Find a bolt that fits the thread because as well as the other good advice posted it makes it easier to pull out far enough to get the circlips back on. You will probably find out what i mean when you are in the final stages of reassembly. Its not essential but it saves a lot of frustration, as often when the outer drive cap goes on it pushes the CV back into the hub... Also make sure the splines on the main half shaft are clean before re-inserting into diff. Final thing, i started using the grease rather than the EP90 for the swivel lubricant. Far less messy if you need to strip the swivel down again. Hope this helps Cheers Andy

Thanks Scrumps, thats really useful info Cheers Andy

Thanks - my problem is i dont have the bar code but i presume from what you have said the dealer can look these details up for me and resupply. Can anyone give me a ballpark figure to get all this done from a dealer. 1,2,300 quid (more/less?) Ta Andy

Hi, i just went and bought a nice 04 plate disco but had to accept that only one key had been handed in by previous owner. I have since discovered that in order to get a replacement key + fob i need a security code that was supplied with the vehicle in order that it is programmed correctly. The code(s) are not in any of the documentation that came with the car -doh! Does anyone know if you can still get all the information you need (even from a LR dealer) to get a replacement key (i.e from VIN number etc..)? I think the same question also applies to the stereo - as if i ever have to take the battery offline im going to need a code for the ICE. I have looked at remotekey.co.uk but they seem to need that vital barcode i dont have! Hope someone can help Cheers Andy PS: Apart form that, loving the new disco!

Incase it needed further confirmation - its probably a dying alternator. Has happened at least twice to me over the last 7 years (different disco's). look on the bright side, its an early warning system that alerts you to the fact you are going to be running on borrowed time with battery charging. In most other sub standard vehicles, the charging will just die all of a sudden, probably on a dark and rainy night up a quiet road somewhere :-) Andy

Parts now gone to a quick off the mark forum member! :-) Cheers Andy

Thanks guys- if anyone wants the above spares then you can have - preferrably take all and all you need to pay is collection. I can be more definitive about the list if required, but a random assortment of replacement Disco 1 parts to be had. Need to make room for the D2 parts Im surprised by some of the major changes between D1 and D2 e.g. swivels and propshaft etc...thats progress i suppose. Cheers Andy

Hi, after maintaining my beloved 1994 Disco for many years and keeping it in sound mechanical order she is finally going to the post-MOT place in the sky. Well actually she is going to a bloke who keeps horses for all his field work (putting her out to pasture as it were :-)) I have my eye on a nice 2002 GS model and am likely to buy later this week. However in my intreped endevours to keep her running all these years i have a healthy stock of parts that i presume are redundant - or are they? I just wondered out of the list below, how many parts are still compatible with the new model - it would be useful for me to know but thought it might be an interesting question in general (I'll ask the one about how you get 100MPG by adding seawater later :-)) The List: Front Propshaft Front swivel kit (housing, swivel bearings, seals etc..) Full set of U-Joints for prop shafts A number of poly bushes, including panhard rod (and bolts) A-Frame ball joint Brake bads Front brake discs Rear springs 2x spare turret rings for front shocks (the studs always broke on the old ones) I think there are a few more bits n bobs but you get the idea. She honestly was in good health, i sometimes just ordered more than i needed or never quite got round to doing ALL the jobs i meant to at the time. If none of this lot are compatible with new model of Disco then im open to offers... Thanks folks Andy