Timmy511
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Posts posted by Timmy511
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I've just read that and was trying to type on my phone, under seat fuel tank. I'm in Nz and my hybrid 90 needs a new tank, considering the difficulty of getting one I think I'll make one.
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Hi all can someone measure a lr90 underwear fueltbank for me?
Any help much appreciated.
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start as you mean to go on, get a second hand 8274, service it when you get it, run it till it dies and upgrade it with whatever breaks or when buget allows, put a gigglepin mainshaft in it, and a new motor.
i got mine for 450 off ebay, got an allbright copy solenoid for 50 quid at a show and got an xp motor from here for 165. my plasma was one of the cheap ebay efort for 140quid with hook and fair lead.
cheap winching imo.
the expensive part was making a bumper to suit my ibex. but a 90, youll not have that problem!
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how do you convert a disco r380 box to a defender one? everything is the same from what i can gather bar from the shifter mechanism, i hear you can swap them, is it easy or do you need to strip the box to do it?
im in new zealand atm and trying to help my mate fix my ibex back home, hes looking after her and its lost 5th and reverse, broken layshaft from what i can gather from the ashcroft website.
easiest option seems to be a replacement box but a defender box is like finding a needle in a hay stack!
any halp much apreciated.
cheers, tim.
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The propshaft clinic in bradford is where you want to go.
pete will simply, cut the old yoke out, weld a new one in, fit a new uj, and ballance it! last one i had done (splined shaft replaced) cost 40 quid!
not worth starting with imo.
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decent winches, cheaper!
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Ahhhhh see what you saying now, yes i agree deffinatly the way to go.
is that one solid gear or is it a gear on a splined shaft as you were talking about earlier?
if its on a splined shaft then its easy peasy and only one gear to be made along with a spacer plate.
cant wait to see it done!
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I'm not sure I understand your last line there mate
We are not planning on gearing it at the motors, that simply isn't possible if we want to have two motors side by side. The distance would be to great to be able have both motors there. Now try to bare with me on this, I only know the english I was taught in school: The intermediate gear that the motors connect to via their gears (the one you can disengage) is splined over another gear which is the the same spline all the way through. This connects to a larger gear in the lower housing. This gear is the one we want to change so that it would have two different sized splines. One that the intermediate gear still fits on, and one that is larger so that we will have to space up the tophousing and get a taller gearing. Was that understandable?
Otherwise great idea regarding the plastigauge haven't thought of that, but I then think we would make it a bit to thin instead and make the correct thickness gasket to shim it. exactly the same way you get the correct squish out of a dirtbike engine
Sorry, ive looked at the pictures and seen the problem with changing the gearing with the motor gears, no clearence for the second motor drive gear, DOH! you dont need to space the motors further apart (i dont think), youll have the same effect by lifting the top housing with a plate inbetween the top housing and the lower housing.
id say yeah go for the big driven gear in lower housing, but for an increase in speed youd have to reduce the number of teeth on the driven gear, which would then mean you have to drop the top housing not lift it. This is if ive understood your plan.
The only two ways i can see this being done relatively easily if you have the machines are:
1: Open up the top housing by cutting material away from around the second motors drive gears, and weld in plate to close it back up again, then machine a spacer for the top housing and produce two new drive gears for the motors.
2: modify the main shaft/make your own one with a bigger gear on the end and a smaller gear on the drum.
or ring Gigglepin, and see if they can supply you with any of the parts to reduce the work load.
The shim/gasket idea is fine, imo itll just be messy if you have to stack it with more than one but on another note itll allow for adjustment in the future.
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Titex coated drill (a real one not the mickey mouse ones!) or carbide drill should see it!
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Exactly what we are planing to do Timmy
But we are on the look for someone to do it at a proper price your 3 years too late!
if id still been at reliance gear company id have done it for you if we'd had the hobs and right shaping cutters.
it seems so long since i was gear cutting. ah good times.
The spacer plate cant be difficult if you have CNC capabities, if i were you id leave it tall, then plastigauge the gear mesh and surface grind your spacer plate to get the mesh cock on.
You could make the gears and spline production easier by reverting back to old 8274 type gear with a woodruff key and grind a key way into the motor shaft. then broach the key way into the gears.
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could you not make a spacer plate for the top housing to lift it up, then increase the number of teeth on the drive gear by one or two to increase the gearing, as im guessing those two gears would be cheapest to produce by:
turning a gear blank yourself,
get someone to cut it
then get the splines broached or shaped.
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Hi there, im looking at fitting an oil pressure and water temp gauge to my 300 tdi using an oil pressure pipe and a capilary for the temp.
What are the thread sizes for the temp sender in the thermostat housing and the oil pressure sender on the filter housing?
If i had a spare sender kicking around id measure it but i dont.
Any help much apreicated.
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seconded! absolutely superb tool, never failed for me
cheaper version works for me:
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well, being sunday already i wont be there.
but let me know about the next one, ill more than likely tag along! ill try and get my mate out in his 90.
the challenge in december was brilliant fun for such a small site.
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i carry:
oil
water
anti freeze mix
break fluid
full socket set
breaker bar
tool bag with most of what people have listed above (small tools!)
duc tape
hose repair tape
wheel bearings
drive flange
general cable and crimps
loads of bits of pipe
300 tdi bottom hose (plenty of hose, can be cut if required, lots of bends etc)
cam belt
(when i find some old ones, a set of push rods)
pipe (to repair heater hoses and the like)
Prop UJs
Basically anything i feel i could easily destroy off road or stop me from continuing what im doing i try to carry, for competitions ill carry as much as i can and leave it at base.
i life life by the sayings 'hope for the best, prepare for the worst' and 'fail to prepare, prepare to fail'.
In addition to this, if i know theres something broken on my vehicle it gets repaired as soon as its found, usually!
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Evening All,
Some on this forum might know that I'm a Police Officer. My Force is currently being hit very hard with thefts of Defenders. The half-county area I work has one stolen most nights. I've been asked to assist with my knowlege of the vehicles and links to the Land Rover community, with a view to getting any information possible on methods of theft, routes of vehicle disposal etc.
If you, or anyone you know, has some tenuous information which might prove useful, I'd love to hear it. Clearly I'm not saying that anyone on the forum steals Land Rovers
but if you've had a vehicle stolen, or you know someone who has, I'd be really grateful of your assistance. I'm particularly interested in whether vehicles are being sold whole or broken.I'm sure a few on this forum have suffered our collective worst nightmare - if you could spare a few moments to PM me details of the method used in the theft, I'm sure all Oxfordshire's Landy owners would be grateful. Useful details would be - was there any signs of broken glass left? Have you seen any sign of the Landy or parts since? What security measures have thwarted an attempted theft and what haven't worked? Was the landy pre-TD5 (i.e factory immobiliser)? Were the keys stolen? What about any really unique bits? Are the more challenge-prepared wagons going, or is it mostly standard vehicles?
If a couple of forum 'big guns' could post just to confirm my line of work so folk might feel better about PM'ing a stranger with these sensative details, I'd be grateful.
There was a spate of local thefts of just 90s here in yorkshire,
they were all carried out by one person who lived on a remote farm, they would steal the vehicle using a recovery truck and just drag them on, then once they had them they were stripped and sold via ebay.
The only reason the local police knew he was the culprit for all the missing vehicles was due to guy keeping all the vin plates in his garage.
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measure the length of the crush tube, get one machined up out of tube (thicker than the crush tube of course) and then tighten it FT.
standard rover diffs are preloaded using spacers and shims, this method would be pretty much the same and imo alot better as you know you can really tighten it without destroying the bearings.
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that 180 vid reminds me of last year, mine went, understeer towads a wall, power on, into oversteer and round we go!
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take the solenoid off to starter, strip and clean it. it should sort it unless its really warn and slapping around in the can.
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anymore pictures yet?
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when i go out ill let you know what the main roads are like. you can bring some fire wood over here if youve got some to get shut of! lol.
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got about three inch here in West Yorkshire, just waiting for dark and then ill ring some troops for the usual assault on the local lanes!
i love snow!
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if its a bodge your looking for cant you free it up by taking the rockers off and turning the valve with the spring and collets off?
duck oil and some pasty!
rough i know but if its only for a small job its got to be easier, then just replace the engine when youve got your moving done.
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when did you last do a cam belt? belt maybe stretched and the timing out. is there any smoke whilst its running?
is it using any water/mixing? Head gasket maybe on its way out.
is there any smoke whilst its running? this could indicate one of the above.
if it were glow plugs id guess it would be consistent with its poor starting
is the starter motor throwing the engine over nice and fast? if not possibly check the earth staps are clean and well earthed to help it throw it over. the best way is to run one earth lead from the starter motor to the battery.
as said above it could be a fuel problem, but if it were the lift pump that was nackered you usually get a tdi engine that will happily tickover but just wont rev.
To test retroanacondas theory, do you park it on a slope? if so park it back end up hill and try starting it from cold, then the next day park it front end up hill and try start it from cold. If you notice a difference then it could be fuel running back to the tank. My 300 tdi ibex does this and prefers being parked front end down hill.
But we are on the look for someone to do it at a proper price 
but if you've had a vehicle stolen, or you know someone who has, I'd be really grateful of your assistance. I'm particularly interested in whether vehicles are being sold whole or broken.
challenge truck alternator.....
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
Hi all, ive currently got the standard 65amp alternator running my single battery and 8274 setup.
what alternators are people using on a 200tdi disco engine with higher amp output? and where can you source them?
Thanks, Tim.