Timmy511
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Posts posted by Timmy511
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reguardless of lockers or not, as x-eng say, wheels on the ground = traction.
if youve got lockers your better having both wheels on the floor getting traction rather than just one!
ive got gwyn lewis mounts and pro comp shocks (from gwyn) on my 90 and it is abasolutely awesome, todate i havnt broken any diffs or half shafts (using simex). I think gwyns kit is the best for the money and what makes it better is you dont have to buy it all at once you can just buy the back or the front, then add props etc.. as your buget allows.
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if it a lightweight and its free, get it, i drew over a grand for the last one i broke. having said that it was befor the bubble burst.
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im going to be there as winch bitch for Brian Heartley in the old club off road 90. should be fun/baptism of fire as its my first time and im going with an old hand! joy!
see you there.
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what do you class as north?
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Consider the axle separate from the body. With an axle and hockey sticks on the ground in front of you, when the car cross-axles it's the same as your lardy mate pushing the chassis end of one arm towards the floor while you try to lift the other one up. The standard hockey sticks are overcontstrained and it's only the movement in the bush that gives rotational suspension travel (roll travel).
Your system would have much more constraint because of the increased separation of the axle mounts and the reduced movement in the Johnny joints. Now, if you could make one of the diagonals incorporate a variable length, then you could be cooking on gas but in plain metal, not a goer I don't think (even for marks in a Uni project).
youve got me thinking, but i dont know how to make it work and how to make it small enough, yet.
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If you're not breaking your current setup then I wouldn't prat about with it - there's a lot to be said for mechanical sympathy although, of course, you're not a real man unless you grenade at least one major driveline component on each outing
LMAO id best get a sex change quick then!
The 10 spline set up is fine imo if you running tyres such as all terrains/road biased tyres. when you really start getting stuck etc and trying to get unstuck is usually when youll break a half shaft or diff imo.
its not hard to strip your rear axles, remove all the bolts that hold the drive flange on and then pull the lot out with the half shaft to have a look at it, the rear diff isnt hard with both halfshaft removed, drain the diff oil, remove the propshaft and unbolt the diff and lift it out. the fronts are a bit more involved needing the swivel to be stripped to look at half shafts and cvs.
theres a really good saying, if it aint broke dont fix it! but maintain it with regular oil changes etc and grease your props etc. instead of stripping the vehicle just for the laugh, spend a few hours washing the underneath and waxoyling it etc.
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imo any job on a landrover will take double what you expect. if it goes well your lucky, and it takes less time.
when i re built my series 3 i really thought a year would see it done, it took me 4!
after a while i think you just become oblivious to how long a job takes and keep plodding away untill its done. these days im lucky, i borrow any special tools and have dont alot of jobs to my landrovers and know what to expect - the worst!
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Can I ask how that differs functionally from the standard hockey sticks? The layout is slightly different but the effect is the same, the addition of joints where it meets the axle is a bit confusing too, surely that would just allow the thing to move about rather than holding everything straight & true as it should?
Jez, if you were to look at any vehicle cross axled, the the hockey sticks (radius arms) are having to twist in the chassis bushes to match the angle of the axle, the axle at the dropping wheel will move backward and the rising wheel will move forwards, hence those massive rubber bushes in the end of the arms to allow for that movement.
that creates alot of binding force and also instead of the spring pushing the wheel into the ground the energy compressed in the bush is trying to push the wheel back up.
The idea of my linkage is the top link can twist more inline with the chassis bush as is raised about 2 inched from the standard mounting position (like a cranked trailing arm), and then the bottom link can swing sideways as the axle becomes more cross axled, the johnny joints allow for the same movement as the standard rubber bush but allow it all to move with alot less binding effect.
yes the pan hard rod will still be there but thats something to be mentioned for 'future developments'.
really this is just an idea which is being engineered to suit a current problem, 'doing a uni project that doesnt involve work work'!
but all comments and ideas are very much welcome as other people see things in different ways and highlight problems.
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I hate to pour cold water on what has obviously involved a lot of effort - but what you have drawn will have less articulation than standard hockey sticks.
As the assembly articulates, it is in effect trying to twist the axle. It is obviously reluctant to twist so in your case as with hockey sticks, it is only the bushes squashing which allows the articulation. Johnny joints have less elastomer than standard hockey stick bushes so there is less to squash and hence less movement off axis.
I would try building a simple model out of coathanger wire before you embark on a build.
Si
i appricate what your saying, this will be a problem, only analysis and a model will prove it, but even so a failure is not a bad thing, itll make for a good discussion about is nd possible way to overcome it as part of my project. the twist back and forth souldnt be as great as the anglular displacemnt of the axle imo (ihavnt worked it all out but i think id best do pretty quick! lol!).
as has been said above, the positions of the link may be critical, only time will tell.
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Why dont you use the motion simulation part of Solidworks to analyse the motion and limitations of the new setup, also you could use cosmos for the FEA - either way you dont need to remodel it to run the FEA.
that is the plan.
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i was considering this, but im kind of tempted to do it myself-if just to be able to say i have if nothing else.
so buying a complete axle aside, how easy/plausable is it as an option?
and i will turn up my own shafts if i have to!!!
if you do alot of off roading, keep the 10 sline front and put a 110 salsbury on the back, there very strong and seem to be getting cheaper and cheaper!
the 24 spline front axles are weaker as the splines do not flex causing the shaft to break, where as the 10 spline shafts do. clicky - to the ashcrofts page showing this.
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This is the design im playing with, its nearly finished bar from drawing a 2" johnny joint and some nuts and bolts and some crush tubes.
now then its time to test, modify(re-draw) and produce detailed drawing! joy!
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the swivel isnt welded on! if it is its a 101 front axle.
the main differences are, huge 4pin diff, bigger crown and pinion, larger 24 spline shafts. the cvs are the bigger early 110 versions which acording to alot of people are very very strong!
i havnt fitted mine yet but, when i do, if i break it ill let you know, having said that i ran simex on a 10 splin front axle, and didnt break that so....
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More playing today, and possibly a conclusion that I'll look into tomorrow.
I tried to alter the length of the spring so it would pick up from the stop at lower boost, but reducing the free length by clamping the coils increases the spring rate, so this sends its operation in the wrong direction entirely.
I put a new linkage together with my pigeon welder (but no mask, so I used the look away & squeeze trigger approach - it'll do for now).
On a road test it shows 1.5bar boost at peak (it goes well
) but heavy surging again since the diaphragm doesn't move, even at that pressure.In answer to Bush65's point above, I made a video showing the force required to move the vanes. The answer is, just about none (which is lucky, it makes the maths easier).
Next I went back to basics with the diaphragm, cut all the cable ties to return the spring to its original length and made a bench test setup to see what it does. The answer is: 1 bar = 7mm travel, which should be what I need to make the car work.
So:
- I have a linkage which is tight and doesn't have any wobbly slack any more
- the vanes don't need any appreciable force at low loads, so probably small amounts when under load
- The diaphragm does what it's supposed to at sensible pressure levels, on the bench
I think the last point means that there's probably an air leak somewhere, so I'll repipe it tomorrow and have another go.
no offence but that set up wont work correctly anyway. as soon as you pull that linkage it wont move back and forth in a streight line, it will try to pull the linkage in a way that creates the streightest pull possible causing a hell of alot of bind, considering just how little force the actoator is exerting, the binding effect of all the vg vanes covered in hot/dry soot and that linkage will not be helping.
id sugest taking the comp housing off, spining it to a position where you can fit your pipes and also where the actuator an pull in a direct stright line perpendictular to the arm on the turbo.
- I have a linkage which is tight and doesn't have any wobbly slack any more
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go to ashcroft transmissions website. look at the faq section, theres a bit there about setting up the diff lock linkage and ensuring your moving the selector the correct way with the lever, this is because there a three positions to select with the diff lock lever, diff locked, diff unlocked and diff unlocked again!
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this was a little strange imo but....
my 200 tdi was smoking alot and missing whilst ticking over and cold, none of my others have ever done it so i wanted to sort it.
the smoke was whiteish and smelt horrid, basically unburnt fuel. the engine has been dicked with by the previous owners with a funky turbo and masive intercooler, there was also a recipt in the stack that came with the vehicle saying about trying to stop it from smoking.
so first i did a cam belt as it was time, and then did the pump timing. - it stopped miss firing whilst cold but still smoked.
so last night after reading all the pump tweeking thread i decided to tweek, first i did the diaphram, i took it to 0, then 45 and then 90 dgrees clockwise (there was a mark from the previous attempt to stop smoke, although i made my own where it was when we started.) it pulled a fair bit better and wasnt smoking whilst driving.
then i turned the smoke screw 90 degrees clockwise, and again it pulled better with no smoke whilst driving.
i started it up this morning from cold and what a difference! hardly any smoke!
was this because the pump wasnt supplying enough fuel to match the turbo and the intercooler causing it not to burn efficiently?
its nothing like my disco 200 tdi thats in my 90 but its alot better, is it possible to tweek it further? and how do you know if you have gone too far? can damage be caused?
cheers, Tim.
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instead of a bi hexagon socket, buy a full hex impact socket. problem sorted.
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id be carful as oil is under pressure, you could end up with hoses being blown off every two minutes.
id get some all rubber hydraulic hoses with crimped ends made up and then you can move them anywhere you want them.
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lol old indeed!
She look immaculately, nice one chap
just what i was thinking! old!
if your ever in the neigborhood ill introduce you to my series 3! thats a shock to drive!
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Try a new bolt first if that doesn't hold then probably best to repair it, I'd suggest a suitable helicoil insert & new bolt.
ill try a standard landrover bolt, and then ill have a try at helicoiling it but i think itll be a right ball ache!
ill see if it leaks first. touch wood an all that!
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i did a cam belt change on my 200tdi ibex today, its very nearly complete bar from filling it with water.
when i put the water pump back on one of the bolts wouldnt torque up (the bottom one) and just span round, so im pretty sure its nackered.
is the water pump likely to leak from the gasket and into the timing case? or will one bolt not cause much effect?
if it does leak what the best way to repairing the thread without stripping the whole lot down?
cheers, Tim.
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the best way to sort an earth leak causing bad starting is to fit another battery lead dron the negative pole on the battery and the earth point on the starter. clean all the ring connectors up and all the mating faces and it should sort it.
i had a transit that was an arse in the cold, an hour with some scotch bright and emery cloth cleaning all the earths on the starter and engine block/chassis sorted it out.
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in standard form the front 10 spline axle with 110 cv (AEU2522) is the strongest standard setup acording to the ashcroft website, this is due to the amount they twist befor they break.
if i were you id sell one of the lockers on, and upgrade to a 24 spline for the rear and run ashcroft shafts, then keep the front as is but with AEU2522 cvs.
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im currently drawing my uni project using solidworks, im about to draw the links to hold the front axle to the vehicle, what id like to know is, is there a specific formula for making plugs to be welded into the ends of a tube? im mainly concerned about how long they should be, what profile the end of the plug should have so as not to produce a stress concentration etc...
after a fair amount of research ive found that i can get seamless tubing with a 44.5mm o/d and 5mm wall thickness, that is what i was planning on using. and possibly using smaller stuff after ive down some tests on the final stucture.
cheers for any help, Tim.
) but heavy surging again since the diaphragm doesn't move, even at that pressure.
Beware Police and other agencies compounding cars
in International Forum
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what theyll make of the ibex i really dont know, and its standard hight!
this country is doomed imo.