Timmy511
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Posts posted by Timmy511
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like said above the sreight 6 3ltr bmw diesel engine would fit the bill but you need an ecu and an ecu box to get them to run out of the car which could be costly.
sorry just read the above, post edited.
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ive owned and run merc sprinters for a while now, theyre second to none.
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take your time, pay attention to little things such as if your rebuilding an exle etc replace all seal, new bearings... simple things that build reliability.
buy the best kit you can afford, if it a choice of standard or ashcroft for example, take the hit if you can afford it and your less likely to break something.
dont be tempted to follow the herd, build your truck to your spec, if you dont like a certain aspect change it to suit as alot of people like different things for example, i though dislocating suspension with massive articulation was the way to go on my 90, then i saw a guy who had his springs attached to the chassis and the axle which he claimed improved feel through the vehicle and made it more stable so i tried it, liked it and stuck with it.
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wheel bearing caused this on my old ibex. new wheel bearing and it was sweet!
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as the title please, im looking for the part number for the bolt that holds the door top to the frame on early 110/wolf doors with ally door tops.
cheers, Tim.
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dont use the centre drills in a hand drill les, the tips will just break off and theyre a cnut to get out from experience.
ill buy the V blocks off you.
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An idea ive always wanted to see is an end plate made with a proper sealed bearing pressed into the end support to remove the friction you find on an 8274 whilst trying to pull the rope out on free spool. i think gigglepin do this on the gp84s.
i know itll only cure half the problem but anything is better than nothing. and you can used a bearing with double lip seal to keep the carp out and im guessing a bearing will be cheaper than a warn replacement bush.
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grind the lower face clean. remove all the rust/rot as best you can, if you find some good metal then bonus. Put one big flat piece under the lot, drill some holes and puddle weld it on to any existing good metal. them seam weld it all the way round.
paint and wayoil the lot.
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id buy them streight off.
keep one 10 spline for the front, sell the other and then keep your eyes open for a cheap 24 spline for the back.
fit AEU2522 CVs and GKN half shafts in the front, then fit a set of heavy duty 24 spline shafts in the back from one of the many suppliers abouts.
your axles will then be quite strong.
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take a battery cable from the negative on the battery to the starter motor housing (use one of the mounting bolts). it should stop any bad earths.
ensure all electrical connections are very clean (bright and shiney clean) and then when theyre all bolted up cover the lot with grease to prevent.
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Do be realistic! Surely it's not just me that can see that any company who can copy a whole winch isn't going to think twice about screen printing their own copy of the ID plate?
Perhaps it's me and someone is making copies one at a time and phoning Bushey Hall for the ID plate to finish it off.
It's time we started giving the Chinese a bit more credit.
get it right bushey hall probably have the chinise make them for them and put their plates on the winch in house.
but now someone will be buying them direct from tiwan and selling them on as bushey hall (which they probably are) and bushey hall are ticked off because theyre no longer the middle man bumping up the price!
all businesses are doing it, when i left cummins turbos they were top and tailing turbo cores on our lines (all parts from china), then putting a holset badge on them saying 'made in britain'! wise up, were all buying cheap sh@te in a fancy box with a nice sticker!
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i used one on my old 90, did the job, and did it alot cheaper than the steve parker one i got for my series.
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Almost all the 'Names' out there will supply ARB air lockers, but you will do well to find any one who will beat the built up price of ashcrofts, they send you a recon diff with locker all built up and you send them your old diff back in exchange. Except for salisbury diffs because they have to be built up in the axle - so inless you do it your self that will get expensive.
Dan
id also try devon 4x4, ring them and ask how much theyll do one for, last time i asked it was cheaper than one from crown diffs (ebay price) but you do have to supply an exchange diff.
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as les says
but you need to pull the bulkhead back or forth using ratchet straps to get it all to line up!
loosen all the bolts holding the bulk head, adjust to get you door gap right, nip it all up and fine adjust using the door fixings to get the door lined up.
if only i had known this sooner, my series rebuild would have been alot easier!
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If you have access to a lathe large enough to swing a lump of steel required to make dies then you can get exelant results from a push bender, i make my own dies for whatever i need some pics here of a 7" clr die measures 14 3/8 dia for 3" pipe i make them a snug fit and allow 3/16 of flat plus the half dia to help stop deforming
This one was made on the handles due to its size it could'nt be done in the cnc but very good results can be had, i faced the blank up to size and used a sharp V tool to rough it out and then a centralised button tool to finish turn
So no fancy tooling used and anyone with decent lathe can do this,
Carl.
Carl do you make rollers to the same profile as the die or is it not important?
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Erm, i wouldnt do that ^
The turbo governs its speed using an actuator that responds to pressure in the inlet. With the pipes disconnected there is no way for pressure to build up and the wastegate stays shut, this means that the turbo WILL overspeed if you gun the engine, and can kill itself doing so.
seen as its only the intercooler and two rubber hoses, i'd just stick with giving them a good flush with some degreaser/petrol/thinners and let it all dry off properly before refitting.
so long as there is oil pressure and the turbo its self is in good fettle i cant see there being a problem.
When doing a burst test with a big hole drilled in the turbine wheel or comp wheel the turbo will run for quite sometime befor it lets go, and thats running at stupidly high rpm and with the manifolds glowing red.
id much sooner not worry about you exhaust, id be more worried about oil contamination and your intercooler.
to be 100% safe, change you oil and filter, runing it for a short while (couple of days of low milage) and change it all again. then just swap the intercooler for a cheap second hand one off a breaker, youll get one for a tenner and have more piece of mind!
when you fit the turbo, prime it with some clean engine oil just to ensure its got some clean lubrication on first start up.
Tim (ex Holset/Cummins Turbo Technologies employee).
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i might be marshalling! going to ring up monday. if you hear the Mcgunniss fog horn / air raid siren ill probably be somewhere near there!
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sweet, thats another job jobbed, cheers!
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pardon me for being stupid or not seeing the wood for the trees but,
where is the handbreak adjust on the drum of a 300 tdi disco transfer box as im used to finding a big square nut to adjust the break shoes but i cant see it???
have landrover removed it on newer models and you just adjust on the cable?
cheers, Tim.
P.s. i have searched the tech archive and manual but cant find anything.
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because its only doing 1200rpm?
a TDi makes peak torque around 2000rpm once the turbo comes on boost, and peak power at the rev limit (4200rpm?), its probably making about 20hp at 1200rpm.
The increased rotational inertia in the engine/flywheel etc helps smooth out any slight changes in throttle angle etc, and the higher engine speed means the engine is actaully responsive.
sorry but no diesel engine produces peak power at their max governed speed, most diesels produce max torque between 1800 rpm and 3000 rmp, if you want max fule economy you want to cruise in top gear sat at around 2000 rpm, and change gear at 3000 rpm as your going up the gears.
torque is the major player when your talking fuel economy not bhp.
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round three id hope to attened, just in the process of fitting a winch and rebuilding both diffs with 4 pin centres for the ibex.
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Cheers mr western, much apreciated. according to the thread, 4mm play is normal, theres way less then that in it, i guess my prop wants balancing after its been rebuilt. so il risking it for a busicuit and driving to bridlington (for driffield) in the ibex!
cheers.
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Ive found the tech thread for the rear bearing in the transfer box but i cant find anything about the front, is it as simple as the back but without the handbreak removal?
Cheers, Tim.
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when do entries close?
Another head gasket?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
is it a defender or disco 200 tdi engine?