rick
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Posts posted by rick
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Excellent, we have pics Michele !
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For some types of bushings, Polueurathane is ideal. However, for most types of Automotive bushings, it is less than ideal!
This is the only reason that OE Manufacturers do not use PU bushings. It's cheaper to produce than rubber elastomer - so if it were a better solution, they would jump at it!
The forums contain many rave reviews of PU bushes saying how much they improve the handling, but they are of course comparing them to worn out Elastomer bushes - not like for like against new elastomer.
In my humble opinion, the best bushes to fit are genuine Land Rover wherever possible. They will out last any PU or patterned bushes and give just as good handling, but for significantly longer.
The best PU bushes however are made by SuperPro from Australia. Fortunately, they have a UK agent.
The big advantage they have is PU bushes are easy to fit without a press - but that's about it!
Genuine or SuperPro if you don't have a press!
Si
I disagree Si,
IMO, and many here in Oz, Super Pro beat OEM rubber hands down in performance/flex and totally outlive them in our conditions.
PU definitely beats rubber anywhere a bush is in compression, like you I didn't believe PU was a good choice in rotation, but I've been converted.
Super Pro deliver better flex (far better design than an OE bush) and they use the right durometer material for each bush. No one durometer fits all areas with their bushes.
They don't just copy the OE design bush, they look at it, then decide how it can be made better.
If you look at the design of the SP chassis to lower rear trailing arm bush, and the radius arm to chassis bush (the high performance option) they are a much smarter design and you will get better flex with superior life compared to the OE ones.
I had to replace the OE rear trailing arm bushes somewhere around the 90-100,000km mark, they had flogged out and the rear steer was terrible.
Installed the Super Pro ones and they are still fine at 300,000km and the design allows easier flex than the OE type bush with long travel dampers.
My 130 cops a flogging on rough dirt roads, farm tracks, rough secondary roads and what is laughingly called a highway here. It's a work truck and it's loaded to the hilt, (usually gross @ 3000kg sans driver) with the occasional off road foray thrown in for good measure. I used to race too, so apparently I carry a bit of speed in the old girl and don't spare her in the rough stuff, so I've been told
The only place I still run original bushes are the axle end of the rear trailing arms.
Oh, and i have a 60 ton press to hand
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I think you mean traction control, not ABS... ABS will un-apply the brake if the wheel locks, traction control will apply the brake to stop the opposite wheel spinning... Same sensors, different (much later and therefore more rare?) ECU, and possibly a different pump too.... A fiddle brake setup would work out way cheaper and a lot easier to do... (or left foot brake and use more accelerator!)
Also - why would you need the ATB diff with the TC? Unless I'm missing something major they will both do the same function:
ATBs only operate when there's 'load' on both wheels. So with one wheel in the air it'll act 'open', the unloaded wheel will spin and you'll get nowhere.
The TC will use the brakes to lock the opposing wheel, so the loaded wheel gets all the power. If one wheel is locked with the brake, all the power will go through the other wheel, open diff or ATB... I admit, you'll probably get further with an ATB than a plain open diff before the TC kicks in though...
Or am I misunderstanding what you are asking?
A torque biasing diff with TC is much more effective than TC alone, or at least the early iterations of Land Rover's TC, according to those that have done it
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[snip]
I just fitted a K&N air filter.£32.00 the price of 4x paper ones, will probably out last the rest of my 110...
Have fun,
db.
I hope you don't drive through too much dust, although you might be ok in Blighty......
Put it this way, paper filters far better than oiled cotton gauze
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Does anyone know what the one shot grease is?
I have about 20L of lithium grease, can I use it or is the one shot stuff different ?
One Shot is just an NLGI 00 lithium complex grease with 3% Moly. (Texaco Molytex EP00)
It's nothing special, just thin.
Normal chassis grease is usually an NLGI 2 grease.
I'm not sure where Jim gets the idea it's thixotropic ?
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I've never failed to get one out using a hammer. I'm sure that a repeated shocking action requires less overall force than just gradually building up the pressure in a press.
Mine wouldn't budge with a few well aimed blows, and when you have a 60T press available.....
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There's only the dry and wet BP's that are different, they're both polyglycol ether fluids.
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Get a hacksaw or grinder with thin disc, cut the 'wings' (tabs with the bolt holes in) off the ball joint being careful not to cut into the cast bracket. Place the casting in the vice with the newly exposed faces resting on top of the jaws, attack the top of the ball joint with a large hammer.
I don't think I could've generated the 25-30 ton needed to budge the one I changed a few weeks back with a sledge hammer, let alone a 5lb lumpy.
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Are the uni's in the front prop in or out of phase ?
The uni's must be run out of phase as the diff pinion points up at the t/case. If someone has had the shaft out and reinstalled it with the uni's in phase you'll get vibration.
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[snip]
They seem to be screwed on not welded.
[snip]
Yes, they use a threaded top as they are re-valveable/rebuildable
Lots of off road race victories have gone to Billies over the last forty years (and the first twenty five of those were the old school 6100 series much like a lot of the current road versions) and they were all screw tops too.
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I know one of our Australian members said there is a company out there that does it so I imagine there must be one on this side of the pond willing to do the same ...... but I don't know who does it.
But the standard tanks are pretty poor.
Huge thermal; mass being cast and a pretty inefficient shape.
You can a pretty efficient IC in the standard spot with some creative tank shaping and a good core and a lot less lag than when using a full width version.
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Just a FWIW, some/most fuel additives can be corrosive to bearings etc. when they get past the rings (and they will)
BP used to market a very effective diesel additive here but I could see it straight away in an oil test with elevated lead, copper and tin levels !
I've mostly used Redline RL2 it's never had any noticeable effect on a used oil analysis.
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A filter warning light would be fairly achievable I should think. Some kind of pressure-activated switch (like an oil pressure switch) that closes when the vaccum upstream of the air filter reaches a certain level.
Donaldson, Fleetguard and Mann-Hummel filter housings on large off road and truck stuff use a pressure drop indicator for showing when to change an element.
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Oil bath filters are very very very effective, they are often still used for industrial diesel engines.
Actually they're pretty poor, they work by impaction only, and there's big gaps for contaminants to get past the strands of wire wool or whatever is used as the media.
Ben/isuzurover on that AULRO link doesn't think much of them at all, and he has a Series II that he's retrofitted a Donaldson.
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rim difflocks. i assume you mean free wheeling hubs, as there is no way you could ever lock a diff in a wheel. as a diff is in an axle casing. but some poeple call them wheel diff locks for some reason.
is this what you meant? linky. there are a few different looking ones there. they dont actually lock a differential, they just lock/unlock the wheel hub from the halfshaft.
Unless he means the ancient Jack McNamara Series ones that locked/unlocked with a nut on the end of the axle shaft ?
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Plumbers suppliers, they're about 25p each
Mo
Yep, 1/2" BSP, just be careful when using as BSP plumbing plugs are a taper thread, so don't be getting too heavy handed when tightening.
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Look what I found whilst digitizing my comics:
LRE Article all about the Iceberg V8, with pictures and everything!
Cheers FF.
We need a 'like' or 'thanks' button
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I am considering fitting a non-electric Small Block Chevy V8 into my Defender 110. I havent found many people online who have attempted or completed such a project, so I am curious how your V12 turns out. Good luck and keep the updates coming.
Not uncommon here, including using LS6's.
One bloke here has shoehorned in one of the latest Duramax engines and Allison auto in Defender.
360HP and 900Nm/663lb/ft of torque anyone ?
http://www.aulro.com...d-defender.html
Sorry for the slight derail.
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I have a pair of Steiners, they stand up to everything thrown at them, waterproof, rubber armoured etc. And German optics.
It's worth going to a decent shop and doing an A-B comparison between makes, and worth paying a few extra quid, the difference in optics can be staggering.
Ditto.
I love my Steiners, had them for near twenty years now.
Those that have them rave about Leica, Zeiss and Swarovski, if you can afford the entry price.
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Anyone have any idea who makes the ones Bearmach sell ?
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I know these were used in Oz, but do you have any specific production info or even LR part numbers for the engines?
The NA engines were industrial/stationary engines bought from Isuzu and adapted to the LT95 and 85.
Both bellhousings did have LR part numbers but are unique to Australia.
The LT85 one is sought after as it can be re-worked to mate to the R380.
The 4BD1T's were truck engines bought from Isuzu and mostly powered the 6x6 Perentie, although it sounds like a couple of 4x4 turbo's left the Moorebank factory.
There's stacks of info on www.aulro.com in the isuzu section here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/
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Only just been pointed in the direction of this thread, well done.
Patrol bits are often used here to 'fix' weak Landy bits, and IMO the TD42T is one of the best 4WD engines ever made.
Apparently it was desigend by UD, who used to be Nissan's truck section till sold off to Volvo trucks by Carlos.
I can't recall seeing what size pipe you used for the exhaust, but strongly suggest using 3" including the dump pipe if you replace it, 2.5" is miles too restrictive.
Nissan only used the NA exhaust on the 'T's', which is madness.
There's a whole industry here specialising in TD42T exhausts and upgrades.
Stock boost is low too, (around 7psi IIRC) they can handle a lot more easily, then fit an IC and wind the fuel up
Ours has just clocked 400,000km without ever need a spanner on it.
It still has the original clutch, alternator, etc, (we've had it since new) which is more than i can say for the Defender......
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The Isuzu 4BD1T is the ultimate Landy diesel, and it was factory fitted too
I had no idea about the factory 3.5 diesel.
A mate i used to work with was an ex-Jaguar/Rover Australia engineer (did the transmission for the ADF 6x6 Perentie, amongst other things) and was building his own 4.4l alloy blocked diesel (the Australian 4.4 block from the early/mid seventies that was based on the Rover 3.5 block)
He was actually using the Australian Leyland Terrier truck block (forged crank, four bolt mains)
300 Tdi pistons just slotted straight in, and he was using dual Bosch VE pumps, but it never got any further than that.
This was around '94-'95
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I'm sure you are doing the best you can to educate these poor unfortunate souls....
Joking aside have you seen the Rangetrol? http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=21706
No I hadn't, but I'd recognise that front axle anywhere. (we have a GU ute with the TD42T that SWMBO drives)
Patrol front axles have been used to replace the Rover front ends as they almost bolt in, (you need a good tail shaft/two double cardans to use the Patrol rear axle assy) and one company offered the Patrol g/box to replace the R380 at one stage.
There's a few threads on the OL and AULRO boards detailing various builds.
Fuel Injectors - pattern parts not Bosch.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Here it's much cheaper to buy new injectors than get them serviced and your injector prices in the UK/Europe are so much cheaper than what we pay.
Most places can't check the second stage crack pressures either as the injector body is crimped together.
It can be done, but you get charged for it.