rick
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Posts posted by rick
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There's a seal on the t/case input, a seal on the g/box output and two O rings, one each end of the t/case intermediate shaft.
It's the intermediate shaft O rings that often let go, Dave Ashcroft sometimes advises a slightly thicker section, the other thing that you have to check is that the shaft bore hasn't ovalised, creating the leak. In that situation the case needs to be bored and bushed.
When doing the intermediate shaft the stake nut can be undone and the shaft pushed forward slightly to replace the o rings, but there is a crush sleeve in there and if the nut isn't locked back in exactly the same spot bearing pre-load will be altered.
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I'm not sure if this will work with the old girl as I'm not familiar with the chamber and piston, but on the 2/300Tdi's you don't even need an adapter and compressed air to hold the valves open, just roll the piston to TDC for each cylinder and the valves can rest on the piston as you service/replace the stem seals.
I've done this several times on a 300Tdi, just using an in situ valve spring compressor and a tool I made for press fitting the new seals on. I did remove the glow plugs just to facilitate turning the engine over, and you check for TDC by watching for the TDC rock of the pushrods when the rocker gear is removed.
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This help Al ?
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you could wire a smallish start capacitor into the start side of the relay which would help.
Off the top of my head I'd be guessing at around 40-50 microfarad would be ample.
It's actually fairly easy if you can get and use an aftermarket electronic relay, but irt starts ramping up the costs.
And yes, a cooling fan would be mandatory.
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Thanks gentlemen, glad to hear your positive comments
I went out for a couple of test spins during the weekend and the first impression is the ride is firmer without being as stiff as a rolling stone, the old girl feels more stable but yet comfortable at the same time.
Finally I got rid of those bulky prototype adjustable turrets, I found out the right one was rubbing the coolant reservoir a tad,
luckily never had a leak...
Disco II turrets are much more elegant yet inexpensive and give that factory/sleeper look I'm after...
Yeah, I know 12" travel can be stuffed too but 10" are just perfect with no need of ultra-tall, ridiculous bumpstops.
Remote res are maximum PITA to fit though!!!
But I found the way.
HI Michele,
I love The Cube
I've wondered too whether I could use the travel of a 12" damper with a 'standard' front end.
I can max out the 10" dampers (just), I'm still running stock bump stops and the 17" springs just start to unseat, but I think I'd have to do some work to get more travel and I just couldn't be bothered.
Or I could just undo the shocks and 'borrow' a customers fork tomorrow when I finish his job
The 10" SB Billies seem to be a good compromise to fit with minimal fabrication.
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Still running well after over two years of almost daily use!
<snip>
Bloody hell, that does surprise me.
Well done Roger. I was a sceptic right from the start, yet you've proven me wrong.
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I bought them through their online order system. Fortunately they were dispatched in 2 packages and paperwork value of each was inside the gst threshhold
I bought 4 identical units to make it simpler if I want to get a spare later.I like what Michele has done as far as performance for $ value. I nearly went that way (7100 billies) but with 14" travel myself.
I'll be sticking with 10".
It's all I need with a daily driver/work truck.
I do need to re-do something with the rear soon, the low speed rebound I have is diabolical and the shocks I'm using just aren't worth playing around with any further.
I still have this want to use a 60mm piston-7/8" shaft shock so I can prove some theories with bump valving from long ago, but it'll never happen, so the 7100's would suit me well, and when I get really lazy I'd just send them off to Gary Baker in Melbourne to be re-valved. He is very, very good.
I just have horrible memories of 14mm Billie shafts bending under the side loads imposed by coil-over shocks from long ago. (I know it shouldn't happen with a smooth body damper)
Stiction anyone
<edit> I'd seriously consider using Seals-It seals on the spherical bearings too. I've never used them, but the speedway blokes I used to know did and reckoned they worked well.
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<snip>
... but i'm sure others will disagree...
Now who on earth would do that here ?...........
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I bought my Bils 7100 short body 10" travel last September and started fitting them last Saturday
hopefully the old Cube will be running tomorrow!
61.6 cm extended
35.7 cm compressed
Looking good Michele.
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My FOA shockies were delivered earlier this week. I went for 2-1/2" 14" stroke external bypass units. The were considerably cheaper than equivalent Fox or Swayaway.
Nice John.
Did you source them through the Oz importer or direct from the US ?
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<snip>
I am considering a different one such as a K&N or other highflow filter element because if I can't get hold of of a Donaldson filter, I may as well get a decent highflow one.
But that's the point, they aren't decent (relatively speaking) and aren't needed in a 300Tdi.
Any truck parts supplier can usually supply Donaldson, or if there's a Cummins dealer around their Fleetguard/Nelson elements cross reference. Just look in the local phone book for Truck spares and do a ring around.
Most of the big Euro Truck manufacturers use one or the other manufacturers filters anyway, or just get in touch with Donaldson Europe and ask where to source nearby. Finding parts is usually only a few phone calls.
please post up a pt. # of the filter housing as well, I'm interested in what they've used, and the element # is then easy to find too.
All our military 110's use the 3.9 litre Isuzu 4BD1 with the old style Donaldson Cyclopac housing (metal) Wolfs are as rare as rocking horse poop in this part of the world.
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Forgot to add that Bilstein have some short bodied remote can 7100 series dampers which are much shorter open/closed lengths than comparable Fox/King, etc.
http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORsb.asp?Series...p;Manf=Bilstein
You can compare them to equivalent series Billies and Sway-A-Way shocks on that site.
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Easy way to instal a remote can on any damper is get an old monotube damper, chuck the guide housing, piston and shaft, turn up a new end cap, re-use the floating piston and install a schraeder valve in the end cap, drill/tap/braze an NPT fitting, add hose and you have a remote can.
FWIW, Fox's adjustable bump system using a revolving drum with a series of holes is much more repeatable and usually better on a vehicle with 'normal' shaft travel. I know of plenty of people that have rebuilt things like Penskes and when dynoed they have ended up with different start positions on the rebound bleeds on all four shocks thanks to the needle valves, although I don't think we ever had any problems with Ohlins years ago when a mate used them on customer cars.
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FOA are a cheaper alternative to Fox, King, etc.
They are modelled on King as far as I can tell, but use high pressure castings for the piston and floating piston instead of CNC aluminium to get the cheap price. They take King rebuild kits too.
Obviously rod ends as well, no pins.
Most all US off road race type shocks have no external adjustability, exxy Euro stuff like Ohlins, Reiger, Donerre, etc have external adjustments but are $$$$. Some Fox have bump adjustment only on the can, but this is limited to the 5/8" shaft models.
OME have race versions of their LTR and so may be able to do a pin/pin version too, but again they will be $$$ and no external adjustability.
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<snip>
Was really wanting to put a reusable high flow air filter in.
Why ?
The filtration efficiency of a reusable element compared to a Donaldson is chalk and cheese.
Put it this way, I took a K&N out and used a Donaldson Cyclopac element in my 300Tdi. I've been involved in filter testing comparing the K&N to OE and Donaldson, and for the small increase in dP the increase in efficiency was too hard to ignore.
BTW, the inner elements are commonly used in ag and off road gear, they are mainly to protect the engine during filter changes in dusty environments. Most all the tractors I've serviced used dual elements.
If you look at the plastic Donaldson housing thee will be a part # somewhere, if you can find it it's pretty easy to plug the numbers into the Donaldson search engine to find the appropriate filters. If you could post the pt. # up that would be great too.
And FWIW, Donaldson is the biggest filter company in the world, their R&D alone budget exceeds K&N's total sales. The three biggest filter companies are Donaldson, Cummins Filtration (Fleetguard) and Mann-Hummel and all three concentrate on the heavy vehicle, Ag and OEM markets.
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Hiya Pauly !
Where have you been hiding ?
are the D2 uni's still holding up OK on that shaft ?
Apparently Hardy Spicer now have a greasable assembly to replace the OE double cardan joint, but I'm unsure of the $ ATM.
The t/case end uni will need replacing soon on mine so I'm thinking either a TD5 wide angle one or the double cardan shaft to replace it.
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late suffixes of the R380 (MY05 on) were uprated for 420Nm!
Actually I think you'll find that occurred in late '98 with the suffix 'K' box.
I asked Dave Ashcroft about this on another board once and he said they treated the 'K' (late '98, early '99) and 'L' boxes as dimensionally identical and used the same parts in a rebuild, although there are a couple of small differences in a few areas and it didn't alter the strength of the box.
These later suffix boxes are quite a bit different and therefore quite a bit stronger than the earlier 'J' boxes.
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Can anyone explain why a heavier flywheel increases torque? I can see it'd increase the inertia you start the car against when the clutch is slipping but the torque from the engine is still the same.
It can't, it just changes the moment of inertia and kinetic energy.
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Easy way to check
If the t/case end front uni is bigger than the ones used in the rear driveshaft (prop) or the diff end of the front one, you have a wide angle one. If it's the same size as the rear uni's it obviously isn't a wide angle one.
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Hope this is not a hijack - I think my requirements are similar and wondered if you knew anything about the Koni 82 Series
8240-1181SPX
8240-1190SPX
I can't find any length / travel / valving info anywhere
I'm wondering how these compare to the Bilstein BE5-6540 / BE5-6529?
I don't think I have any info on the newer Land Rover specific Heavy Tracks, I only have specs on the older versions and the older 84 series (now discontinued) were only the same open/closed lengths as OE.
Generally, for any given application a twin tube Koni will have slightly better open/closed lengths than either their 30 Series mono tubes or Billies, although sometimes there isn't much in it.
There are long travel versions of Bilstein's B46-0243 and B46-0253 but you need new shock mounts too as these are 100mm longer for 50mm extra travel. They are specials made for one of the Australian Land Rover specialists that can also be ordered through the importer here. IMO the valving of the 0253 isn't suitable for a 110 and definitely not a 130 rear.
If you want longer Koni's for the front of a Defender the easiest alternative is an 82-2385. This is the front damper for a L/Cruiser 80/100 Series. The bottom pin needs to be shortened slightly and the towers raised slightly but this will max out the front travel within the restrictions of the front radius arms. You end up with a bit over 1.5" more damper stroke.
More can be eeked out by modifying the adjuster ears inside the shock to get a genuine 10" of stroke, but you lose the external rebound adjustment. These have quite a bit more travel than the equivalent Bilstein which has barely any more travel than a Rover damper. An OME N73 has a touch more stroke again.
Here, as I said above, we generally modify Patrol rears by cutting off the bottom eye and welding on a pin or converting the land Rover mount to an eye mount.
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TJM is ARB's major opposition here, saying they are the same would send both companies bosses into apoplexy
and saying that a lot of what TJM do is just rebadged, that's all ARB do too. ARB's shocks are made on the Monroe line here (ARB have their own damper techs and dyno's, TJM's are made to their specs OS) and both companies outsource their spring manufacture. Even a lot (maybe all ?) of ARB's bullbars are now made in Asia somewhere
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You need more than 1/2" bump stop compression to be safe, in actual fact you need at least 20-25mm.
I'm speaking from experience here, having killed two sets of long travel Koni's on the front end. (at least i could rebuild them) You'd be amazed at how much the bump stops compress under load.
Stephen, the easiest route for the $ is the Pro comps (I've never used them)
Koni have a Raid shock, pt. # 90-5401 that is 607mm open, 391mm closed that's a bolt in. just don't ask the price.....
The Koni and Bilstein importers here do specials, generally GU Patrol Heavy Track rears and modify them to pin and eye to fit Land Rover rears. You can also use a pin to eye converter at the bottom to use an eye/eye damper, just remember that a lot of top eyes aren't big enough diameter and will break the eye off the shaft thanks to the dodgy top angle of the mount. Les Richmond Automotive here used to market a 'kicker' (taper shim) that corrected the top bracket angle.
I currently run Monroe MQ Patrol rears (610mm open, 358mm closed) which are totally safe in the OE mounts and use retained springs.
I've swapped to a much heavier fluid (Silkolene 15wt pro RSF fluid, 100psi nitrogen pressure) but the valving is still pretty dodgy, or cushy, depending on your POV with the 130 twin spring setup. No where near enough low speed rebound, although they comply and control OK at higher shaft speeds.
With 10" stroke shocks front and rear, 17" front springs and retained rear springs the articulation is transformed off road. The little bit of extra droop at the rear is sorely needed, and retaining the rear springs without going over the top on rear damper travel forces the front end to work better when the rear is at maximum travel making the beast more balanced off road.
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Yes, engine oil was the original spec. and is fine if changed relatively frequently.
A better modern alternative to a 15W-40 engine oil is either a 75W-85 or light 75W-90 (no more than about 14.5cSt) GL-4 manual transmission fluid, (not to be confused with a diff/gear oil) something along the lines of Castrol Syntrans or Redline MT90 if you want to cough up the dosh for a synthetic oil.
They'll give better gear and bearing protection with better shift characteristics. (their frictional characteristics are better suited to synchro's than an engine oil)
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Not really worth it, if you are serious about filtration you are better off installing a by-pass filter like the centrifuge on the TD5 to trap everything. Trapping microscopic ferrous particles is fine, but what about the aluminium, soot, etc that combined together really cause wear issues.
The large truck operators I know that go 100,000km on an oil change don't use magnets, they use by-pass filtration with used oil analysis to ascertain condemnation limits and generally soot levels and tbn (total base number) determine when to dump.
I bought 4 identical units to make it simpler if I want to get a spare later.
Wolf Air Filters
in Military Forum
Posted
Hi Ed, thanks for that pt. #
How did you go getting a filter ?
It really surprises me how hard it's been for you fella's to get an element.
I'm guessing that housing is a special for Land Rover as it doesn't cross with a 'standard' FPG housing.
All the FPG's I have drawings on have the inlet connection on the drivers side bottom, and I'm guessing the one you have has it on the near side bottom like the 'standard' 300Tdi filter ?
BTW, that model FPG filter has a higher flow rating than a standard 300tdi filter too. 160cfm @ 6" water vs 112cfm (without the safety filter, 125cfm with the safety filter)
According to the Donaldson catalogue, the filter pt. # is P827653 for the primary element and P610904 for the safety element