rick
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Posts posted by rick
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call me a fart but still none the wiser spoke to a few people at foxham and got a mixed response is anyone out there runnin a 3 inch lift kit on standard correction and shafts
All the info you need is in the above posts. All the info you need is in this forum or the archive if you do a search and some sifting.
Again, what is your bump stop clearance ? A 3" lift means diddly squat without a base line.
If your bump stop clearance is above 120mm in the front you will need castor correction. IMO it's desireable above 100mm, but not essential. Around 140mm roughly equals a true 3" lift. Prop shafts may need extending at this lift.
If it's roughly 105mm or greater in the front you will need longer brake hoses.
Back to you.
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Depends on the vehicle and spring spec, but approx 60-65mm seems to be stock out the factory gate.
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Fit a Toyota 8" centre in the Rover housing, or a complete LC 80 Series rear end (yes, I know the stud pattern is different) if you are blowing centres. You will need resplined axles too, obviously, but it works.
A hypoid CWP is much stronger than a spiral bevel diff of the same size.
The other alternative is to fit build a better Rover diff (ARB, Detroit, Quaiffe or 4 pin centre) and 'peg' it. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_47.html
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What's the measurement between your bump stops ?
Everyone talks of 2" and 3" lifts, but there is never any baseline to measure off. I don't think most are as much as some owners imagine.
If you have increased droop travel, of course your brake lines will need extending, although most supposed 2" 'lifts' just use a heavier rated spring which is no longer than stock and stock length dampers so all the lift is at the expense of droop (unless you use dislocation) You state you are using 2" longer stroke dampers, so brake lines need extending.
IMO, castor correction is best done at the swivel. Using bent arms to correct castor will shorten the life of the front uni. Bending the arms to correct bush/pin angularity, then re-bending to correct the driveline angle, then slotting the swivels for castor correction is fine IMO.
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Richard, it would be interesting to see what brand/country of manufacture bearing Dayco are now using.
I've seen a lot of Chinese bearings turn up in expensive genuine parts boxes (not Land Rover) from reputable manufacturers in the last twelve months or so for the various bits of gear I service.
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From what i've seen and from talking to a couple of very switched on L/R specialist mechanics, the crank pulley to use is the Bearmach one (one piece ) as opposed to the OE one that uses spot welded lips.
These have a tendency to fail, shredding the belt in the process.
IMO you are probably better off using the later (non lipped) tensioner and idler pulley too. ( these use Ina bearings, which are very good)
The secret to belt life is the tension. Don't follow the manual, it is incorrect, L/R issued a revised (lower) spec with a TSB late in the engines life.
Follow the Difflock instructions and you won't go wrong.
From the official TSB dated 25/3/98.
. Remove the rocker cover and inspect for broken rocker arms and bentpushrods. Should a rocker arm be broken the cylinder head must be removed
and inspection of all valves carried out to ensure they are not damaged,
i.e. tightness in a valve guide would signify a bent valve. Replace any
damaged components.
· If a cylinder head is removed, on completion of repair, refer to bulletin 10/02/94
for coolant refill procedure.
· Before fitting the new idler pulley
stud to either the new front cover, or
the original cover where this is
retained, ensure that the stud hole in
the front cover has a 2 mm x 45º
chamfer as shown, (illustration A).
If no chamfer is evident, produce one
using an appropriate countersink
tool.
· When fitting the new idler pulley, do
not refit the original spacer washer.
This is not required with the new
design and must be discarded.
· When fitting the new tensioner, do
not attempt to re-use the original
slotted washer and flange bolt.
These must be discarded as the
slotted washer is incorporated into
the bearing and the flange bolt is
replaced by the new cap head bolt.
· The new crankshaft gear has a flange added on each side. Before fitting,
ensure that these flanges have not suffered handling damage.
· The timing belt tension has changed from that published in the Workshop
Manual. The new method is as follows, it is essential that this procedure is
adhered to precisely:
a) Ensure that the timing marks are aligned and appropriate timing pins are used
as described in the Workshop Manual.
B) Fit idler pulley and tensioner assembly and tighten the idler securing nut to
45 Nm.
c) Loosen the three injection pump pulley fixings.
d) Locate timing belt onto pulleys.
e) Lightly tighten the tensioner locking screw then back off one full turn.
Ensure tensioner is free to move.
f) Using a dial type torque meter with
a maximum length of 250 mm
apply a torque of 11 Nm with the
torque meter positioned vertically
as shown, (illustration B).
g) Tighten the tensioner locking bolt
to 45 Nm.
h) Tighten the injection pump pulley
fixings to 25 Nm.
i) Remove timing pins.
It is no longer a requirement to rotate
the engine and repeat the tensioning
procedure.
j) On later vehicles, fit a new crankshaft front seal to the front cover plate (see
NOTE in PARTS INFORMATION for definition of specific vehicles), refit cover
plate and remaining covers and ancillaries as detailed in the Workshop
Manual.
k) Apply a dab of yellow paint at
least 2 cm square in the position
arrowed in the illustration to
indicate that one of the Parts
Option Kits has been fitted.
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Just a FWIW, I pulled the spare used one out of it's box yesterday, the bearing had been changed approx. 20,000km before being retired (too much wear in the nylon bushing, the misalignment was causing belt squeaking) and measured the axial play with a dial indicator.
0.4mm movement at the periphery of the pulley.
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A brand new tensioner assembly should have no detectable play in it in any direction other than rotational (which should feel slightly stiff to turn). The bearing is fixed to the mounting plate, which is then bolted to the rear face of the timing case. Belt may be Dayco, but I didn't know they also made tensioners. I wouldn't fit it if I was you.
Les.
Les, the water pump/fan belt tensioner is made by Dayco, they are the OE supplier. (The OE tming belt tensioner and idler bearings are made by Ina)
The Dayco pt. # is APV1004 for the 300Tdi fan/water pump belt tensioner and is quite a bit cheaper here than buying through a Land Rover supplier.
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It's not a roller bearing, it is a ball bearing.
It does have an axial play though, but it's in the order of less than 10μm and this means you can't feel it by hand.
well all the new ones I pull out of the box must be cactus then as i can feel the axial play ??
And yes, you're right, it doesn't use rollers, I used the wrong term.
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These are reputed to be very good http://www.traxide.com.au/DBS.html and the man is a Land Rover nut too.
I have one of these http://piranhaoffroad.com.au/index.php/def.../dbe150s-m.html fitted over seven years ago (branded as a TJM unit, it was cheaper at the time) and they also make these http://piranhaoffroad.com.au/index.php/def...e180s-plus.html
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It's a roller bearing so will have axial play.
A wheel bearing is a poor example to compare it to as they are taper rollers that have to be adjusted to virtually a pre-loaded state for correct operation.
A roller bearing like the type used in the tensioner has a single row of roller balls running in an inner and outer track and the spacing between the balls determined by a cage.
There is nothing to prevent some axial movement between the inner and outer races as they can rotate slightly in relation to the balls, and nor is it a fault as there will be some.
There is a fault if there is radial movement.
I have a Nachi book here somewhere that gives the ISO specs on these things but can't put my hands on it ATM.
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Thanks Ralph.
Looks like the pound has slipped quite a bit to our $ over the last month too.
That price works out at $64 + freight, so quite bit better but still silly money for a latch.
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pt. # MTC3917
Anyone have any idea who the current supplier is to Land Rover ?
My old '98 has the brand 'Pesca' stamped on them, but this is drawing a blank searching the www.
The damned retaining spring (a small piano wire type spring) has totally broken on one so it pops open as I drive down the road, and one leg has broken on the other, so it's on it's way out, but I'm damned if I'm going to pay over A$100 each for an over centre latch !
Any leads appreciated.
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Another here that's used them to repair buggered stub axles on Rovers.
None have leaked since AFAIK.
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IIRC the Scrapiron ones were Oram from Italy, weren't they ?
If so, these are based on Ohlins dampers, so check the specs in the chart below.
A lot of car dampers generally use something around the SAE 5wt range in damper fluids. (Koni, etc)
Unfortunately this covers a hell of a range of actual kinematic viscosities !
IMO the 'best' damper fluids are generally Silkolene RSF, (Penske use this) Motul Factory Line, Torco RFF, (Fox and King use this) Redline or a little known one from the US called Primus Racing shock fluid that has the highest VI of any fluid I've seen. It's ideal if you are running a Dakar and regularly cook your damper fluid
This is the most complete list of damper fluids I know of.
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The Texaco Extended Life coolant is identical, as it's what Land Rover used to use as the factory fill.
It will have something like "based on extended-life organic acid Carboxylate Technology" which means OAT on the bottle.
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You don't have to change the bearings if they are OK, just pull the centre and split the hemisphere, pull the planetary gears out and install the No Spin centre and reinstall.
Ideally you spread the case or compress it top to bottom (spreads it sideways, there is a certain amount of pre-load on the bearings) but a couple of tyre levers will get the centre out too, and some gentle persuasion with a copper or soft face bashing implement will get it back in.
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I wonder how the weight compares to Performance Wheels TX1 ?? (9.8kg in 16x7), although the TX1 only has a 1400kg load rating AFAIK. (still higher than 130HD rims)
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Pretty pictures are nice but one sentence sums it all up.
"Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt."
Don't get hung up on the brand, read it as
"Compared to the cellulose fibre (paper) the oiled cotton gauze “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt."
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As far as I know K&N filters are woldwide used for quarry and construction plant.
They must have done a hell of a good job to convince them all to buy sh8.
Or is the 300 tdi more sensitive?
Good one, April 1st and all that.
Seriously, no earth moving gear anywhere in the world uses a K&N, they wouldn't last a day.
Construction and ag gear worldwide use either Donaldson, Cummins/Fleetguard or Mann-Hummel elements.
If I find isuzurover I'll point him this way. Ben is a filter research engineer, he's consulted to the biggest filter companies in the world (the three I listed) and passionately dislikes K&N's. They are really, really old school, the only thing they have going for them is their flow rates (as the holes are so big) and pretty much only keep rocks out.
We did some tests here using very sensitive lab equipment and cellulose fibre (paper) and K&N's. I supplied most of the filters, isuzurover did the tests.
With the first lot of tests, Ben had to check that the small particle size being fed into the filter it was being fed in the correct side, so much was registering upstream !
They are good for a clean race track, and nothing else.
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Thanks Western
It was 3/8. Ok so I only have the one plug is this then a fill and level point?
Rave says put in 375ml - I put in 500ml Castrol EP90 and it was not filled to the plug.
Have I over done it?
Miles too much.
Older vehicles had a level, drain and fill plugs, later ones just the fill (and were supposed to be 'filled for life' ha ha ha ha
)
Don't panic too much, it'll blow through into the diff housing so when you go to check the front diff you'll know why it's overfull.
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mid eighties 110's had the vent flaps removed when the a/c was fitted. Something to do with the ducting behind the dash I think. A few blokes here have re-installed the vent flaps.
Other than that tid bit I can't really help, sorry. Oz spec Tdi's had a totally different system than the ROW, it all fits in the passenger footwell and takes all the space up inside the cab.....
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Polyairs do have a bit of a reputation of failing occasionally where they feed into the bag, and some people have used them for fifteen or more years and never had an issue. A mate of mine went through two sets in the back of his Patrol cab chassis over two years. In the finish he dumped them and just installed heavier springs.
However, if I was to purchase some I'd go for the Firestones from here http://www.truckspring.com/
Much cheaper, even with the drop in the Pacific peso. A lot of AULRO members have bought from there.
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Still no filter yet
Good to know the flow rate figures though. cheers for that.
After seeing that I'm going to try and track one or two down. Might see if my favourite Land Rover parts importer can get some, I'm guessing Donaldson here might go ????
Oil pump?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Interesting.
300Tdi's are notorious for wearing big ends badly here, anywhere between 150-300,000km they are down to the copper backing layer.
I'm dropping the sump and checking mine over the weekend, hot idle pressure has plummeted............