rick
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Posts posted by rick
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[snip]
....then use a mineral oil as you need the abrasive qualities that mineral oil has....
[snip]
Umm, no they don't, not even close, sorry Iain.
The lubricity of a well formulated mineral based premium lube (and most are blends now these days anyway) is as good as any 'synthetic' oil.
The only advantage a syn or syn blend oil has these days is in low temp pumpability (I'm talking below -15*C) oxidation stability over a long drain interval and extremely high engine oil temps, levels where you've usually created other heat related problems anyway.
Premium mineral oils like Caltex Delo 400 LE, Castrol RX-Super, Mobil Delvac MX Super, etc are as good as their full syn brothers on short oil chage intervals, ie. they are still good for at least 30,000km in truck use.
It's only when trucks are doing 100-120,000km oil change intervals they have to use the premium syn oils to get the mileage and break even/get in front on cost.
Cars are a little different, short runs and stop/start city driving are the hardest conditions on an oil and this is where the oxidation stability of syn base fluids help extend drain intervals in new vehicles but one is not 'more slippery' than another.
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I'd use an ACEA E4/E6/E9 oil.
Why ?
An oil meeting those standards has the best, most robust additive package available ATM, even if the sulphated ash, zinc and phosphorous levels have been dropped for SCR use
The ACEA 'E' oils are for HD diesel use, and so are ideal in a hard worked TD5, particularly one that's been chipped.
Yes, it's formulated for EGR and DPF and those two things play merry hell with long term lubrication, so it actually gives the oil something up its sleeve if you've deleted them.
An ACEA A1 oil is so basic it's pretty ordinary, and anyway, you need at the minimum an ACEA B1 oil (car diesel rated) which is still pretty ordinary, being roughly equivalent to the old, superseded API CF spec.
[edit] I forgot to add either an xW-30 or xW-40 is fine in the TD5.
Even though the handbook says 5W-40, a 10W-40 that meets the above specs I've mentioned will protect better than almost anything else and be fine for start ups down to around -20*C.
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One of DBA's engineers steered me clear of EBC years ago.
Too much inconsitency batch to batch (at the time)
Again, at the time, (eight or nine years ago) he reckoned Ferodo were at the top of the non asbestos pad game, in both road and race compounds, but things change quickly.
Mintex always had a solid rep too, and I can't fault the Australian Bendix pads we have in the Patrol.
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OE ones flog out too quickly for me.
Fit Superpro and never have to change one ever again (within reason
)Superpro are a superior design to the OE style in most spots too. (they allow more articulation)
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They're pretty light, sort of a once use only item.
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Lucky no one's interested in Defenders in Land Cruiser, Lolux and Nissan Patrol country....
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Like, maybe the tips and tricks from this thread in the Tech archive ?
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That's how they come, you need at least one for the t/stat to close and no, as far as I could make out they aremn't mentioned in any parts list ?? (although I don't have Microcat up and running yet)
I changed mine five or so months ago as it had jammed open and as a consequence i couldn't get the coolant up to operating temps unless I went for a 25km minimum drive during winter.
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Oops, sorry, didn't notice your location.
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You couldn't buy it from a Vauxhall dealer ? (although it'd probably be a silly price)
If it's from an '04 GTO that's just a Holden Monaro with an ugly nose and the same as the Monaro sold in the UK.
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One of the very few other 255/85 options is the Toyo MT http://www.toyo.co.u...open-country-mt
You're lucky you can get them there, Toyo refuse to import them here "not enough demand..."
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You won't need to touch the fuel screw on the back of the pump, you can attain engine melting EGT's just by going into where you fiddled
The best instructions for adjusting are here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=326&d=1152411367 and I've had no change in overall fuel economy in the last five-six years form doing it.
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Really poor design using a ball joint in single shear @ the chassis end IMO as the lower links carry more load than the uppers.
They'll also transmit a lot more NVH than even hard urethane with that link at the chassis end.
The standard chassis end bush works well, it allows full twist in the arm during articualtion and won't restrict sane levels of droop travel if you use a decent bush such as Super Pro or Bearmach's alternative.
[edit]You'd be instantly defected here if anyone with any authority saw them too and it wouldn't pass the yearly rego inspection, at least in this state.
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Absolute overkill in a gearbox, it's just not needed and won't have the best synchro action either.
Shockproof is designed for huge HP/torque slamming through a diff off the dragstrip, it has a lot of free calcium floating around in it and i believe soluble moly.
In a Series box I'd rather use Redline MT90 or Motul Gear 300 if you want to spend heaps of money on a fluid, and at least those two are designed for synchro gearboxes.
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I have noticed in the 2.8tgv workshop manual that International recommed a timing belt change at 120,000km which is alot further than the 70-80k that most tdi owners adhere to....
It's the same interval in temperate (read, Europe) conditions for the 300Tdi too.
I've just had a look and Dayco lists a different part # for the HS2.8 vs the 300Tdi or 2.5 Maxion engines, 118SP+300HK for the 2.8 and 118SP+300H for the other two.
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I'm old school, I still like Cibié Z beams for the main headlights.
Metal reflector, annealed glass lens, able to use up to 130w H4 globes easily (with the appropriate wriring and relay)
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Forward Specialities in NZ too. ( I think I mentioned them on the phone ?)
http://www.forward-specialties.co.nz/
There is an MWM importer/distributor here too, but I think they only bring in stationary and marine engines.
I'll dig up the contact details.
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Or just buy pre-mix.
I buy it by the 20l drum and it works out the same price as concentrate without having to buy de-ionised water.
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*@%& John, I'd be looking for something else/some other way too
FWIW grease type can make a difference in life as well.
A calcium sulfonate thickened grease resists water washout/rust much better than any lithium or even aluminium based grease, and lots of lubricating solids like moly is a good thing in low speed, high load applications like ball joints (and sliding splines)
I use a CAT 5% moly, calcium sulfonate grease for chassis lubrication as it's easy to get here. (CAT and Komatsu dominate the heavy machinery/mining market here and I live between two large coal mining areas)
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Yep the easy option is to use one of these (From Difflock)
Also not a cheap option though there are others just hard to find.
or make one to suit your engine.
A mate and I knocked this up a few years ago.
You can also use the flywheel locking pin, although I wouldnt trust it I know of a few workshops that do just that, one dealer here even used a ground down cold chisel.
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How often are you replacing drop arm ball joints ?
I've only had to do it once in ten years and it was pretty straight forward, although it can be fun getting the bottom plate back in against spring pressure.
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I don't use the nine rule.
Turn engine to TDC.
Are the valves rocking on No 4 or No1 ? Which ever they rock on set the other two...Then turn the engine until another pair of valves rock, setting the opposite pair of valves.
Set hot or cold I believe the book says.
Yes, the easiest way IMO
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I guess the other option is this type of thing mounted under the radiator, between the rad frame and front crossmember:
FWIW, that's wherer I planned to mount mine.
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Forgive the hijack but I'm considering a pair of lockers for my (2000) 110.
I've heard a lot of praise for the Ashcroft locker but they don't seem to do one for the Salisbury.
If that is the case is there anything wrong with mismatching lockers? (i.e. an Ashcroft in the front & a Detroit in the back)?
You can still get a McNamara, ARB, TJM Pro-Locker (Jack Mc by another name) and Maxi Drive (again) for a Sals too.
I've driven Detroit's/No Spins and from what I've read and looked at I'd rather use a Kaiser locker if you don't want a selectable in the rear.
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OT nissan patrol items, what they worth?
in International Forum
Posted
They do on this side of the world
1000 times more Y60/Y61 Patrols here than Landies.
Defender drivers are very much in the minority and looked down upon by our Japanese driving counterparts.