AndyLandy46

Hi Robert, So checked the old plugs as suggested and no evidence of knocking (phew) Put new leads, dis cap on and it sorted the misfire out! The old leads were in a shocking state, 4 of them snapped when I took them off and all the insulation was splitting on them. Lesson learnt there. They looked OK when they were on the vehicle. Also, set the timing up to 7Deg BTDC, and the engine seems to be running and pulling much better than it was. All in all, I am feeling pretty chuffed. Thank you so much for your help!

I'm also thinking that the 'baffles rattling' in the exhaust noise I was hearing might have actually been pinking which ties in with the very advanced timing. Hmmm, likely damage? or is it a case of just setting everything back up and hoping for the best? Engine will probably be pulled apart and overhauled next year anyway :-)

This is what I was thinking, even if it occasionally misfired on #1 because of the poor lead it is unlikely to shift the 'appearance' of the timing. Had the timing light on the NSR bank on the first cylinder near the front of the vehicle. Didn't realise that about the timing light, will check that before I check the timing again tomorrow. Good idea about marking the distributor body and manifold. When setting the timing I assume I should I do it with the Vac hose off and at a warm idle? Thanks for your help again, lets see what tomorrow night and a bunch of new parts brings! (P.s if you ever want to sell your megasquirt I would probably be interested)

So, bit of an update - Been and got myself a timing light from a friend. Read notes on here, and from the previous owner (he provided an amazing set of meticulous notes) He has marked the crank pulley with a white mark which is 6deg Before TDC. So crank pulley reads ADVANCE - 12 - TDC - <White Mark> - 12 - BEFORE. I have identified the pointer on the block. - Put the timing light on and timing seems way out! The block pointer was pointing at about the E on BEFORE which seems slightly concerning. - So I went to pop out number 1 spark plug and the cable end broke off in my hand...anyway carry on. - Number plug out, piece of thin bar resting on top of the cylinder to find TDC. - TDC mark actually aligns with the block pointer. I assume the lead breaking up wouldn't make the timing 'appear' to be out or would it? (Timing gun triggered from #1 lead) Plan for tomorrow when parts finally arrive. Replace leads, distributor cap, and rotor arm. Then re-check timing, adjust if necessary. Road test. When adjusting the distributor position, is it very fine movements to alter timing?

Vac advance seems to be working well. Rotor arm seems to be quite loose on the shaft. Have a new rotor arm and cap coming tomorrow so hopefully that will correct that.

Bin liner?

Aye, popped a bolt in the end of it and cable tied it but still no luck. I'll try it again later when i'm home and the engine is warm. it may be slightly more receptive to the idea then. However, taking the hose off the carb, and the top off the distributor, by sucking on the pipe I can see the bottom plate moving so I assume it is working.

Re-routed a few HT leads today with no luck, and the V8 did not like the Vacuum being disconnected at idle! Currently awaiting the parts delivery then will crack on with the investigation. Also may need to replace the centre box of the exhaust. It seems that a backfire has blown some of the baffles loose in it!

Hi Chris, Based in South Warwickshire just down the road from the Gaydon Motor Museum. Before the plug change it had been off the road for a couple of months whilst I did some welding on the bulkhead (batt and alt disconnected). Not running it on LPG till I add MS and EFI. Will try disconnecting the vacuum tomorrow and check the routing of 5 and 7. I think they might be crossing each other at some point. I've got to run up to Coventry with it tomorrow so will be able to test those out in the morning. Unfortunately it doesn't misfire at idle so it makes the diagnosis quite difficult.. Will report back tomorrow, thanks for the help everyone. Really appreciate it.

Hi Robert, Thanks for the incredibly informative reply. That will be very very useful if/when I swap out the distributor and ignition module. I'll let you know how I get on over the next couple of days. Chris - Misfire occurs when I attempt to drive at low rev's e.g. 30mph in 4th or when I try to accelerate hard. It runs fine at higher revs e.g. you can feel it misfiring at 50 in 5th but in 4th it is ok. I've not touched the timing since I got the vehicle about 2000 miles ago and it has run sweetly until now. Ignition wise the only thing I have done is put in new spark plugs (NGK BP6ES), they were done one at a time so I didn't get the leads mixed up.

Just been out to swap the ignition modules over and found my spare distributor that was in the 'massive box of spares' that seems to accompany most Land Rover sales is on older 2 pin type where I am now running a 35DLM8 distributor with the 3 pin module. This looks to be a right PITA to replace without removing the distributor. Has anyone seen a guide anywhere on how to remove and replace the distributor without upsetting the timing (I don't have a timing light and precious little time) Slightly concerning as we are meant to be taking the Defender away next weekend and it is getting quite undriveable at the moment...

Urgh...Just been reading up on the replacement of carrier bearings on a Salisbury 110 axle. Sounds like an absolutely awful job to try and tackle, plus the cost of bearings and ancillaries is almost the cost of second hand axle (drum braked). After all, the axle has done 246K miles and may be time for a replacement. Does anyone sell refurb units? or do I go with a second hand unit from a 135K 110 that has got disc brakes on

Will be replacing distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads and ignition module over the next couple of days. Coil has been on for 10K and is a genuine lucas part so hoping it isn't that (as I haven't ordered one) Not sure what a tuning resistor is?

Doh! Rear Wheel bearing replaced on O/S, and the noise was still there. However, after a test drive I came back and changed the oil in the rear diff and I reckon there was a large reduction in the noise. Does this mean my rear diff is on its way out??

So a 15 mile test trip says the problem is no better towards the end of the drive it was getting worse if anything I have a new set of plug leads on order, there is a spare ignition amp in the garage from an old distributor (little box on side of distributor right?). Plugs have been recently replaced.... Anything else I should be looking at? Or should I just buy a MS kit??

More and more issues on the Land Rover :-) The wheel bearing in my other thread is a nice job in the rain for tomorrow morning so hopefully that will sort out the helicopter that appears to follow me everywhere. However I now have had another problem develop over the week....something for the V8 guru's. I've had what seems like a misfire on a 3.5 V8 110 (Twin SU Carbs, standard dizzy) under load. Started poking around tonight and found the Vac Advance unit was very loose. So have tightened it up and hopefully sorted it, will be able to road test tomorrow. However, to set my mind at rest tonight do you think I have found root cause? My thinking is, loose vac unit allows distributor base plate to move, therefore throwing the timing out which will be far more apparent under load then any other time... Or does anyone have a MS kit for sale??? (Nige - I'd love to buy one of your kits but apparently spending the wife's redundancy money on it is frowned upon..)

Could you use something like this? http://shop.challenger4x4.com/seat-belt-rear-left-hand-top-mounting-bracket-for-land-rover-defender-6545-p.asp

Do I need new inner and outer seals too?

I've checked the history for the vehicle (from 150,00 to 24400) I've run it until 246000 so far. All hubs were checked at 240K and fronts re-checked at 243K If I take the hubs off to re-pack and adjust the bearings then what consumables do I need, new lock washers and drive flange gaskets?

So checked the UJs on the flat, tbox in neutral and handbrake off, no play in the UJs. Did a bit more listening this morning. Noise is more apparent on bends but could possibly be there in the background on the straight but difficult to hear. When the noise appears and I drop off the accelerator and dip the clutch the noise remains. I had a rear RH brake binding, could it have cooked the bearing on that side?

Aaah, I checked them earlier with the handbrake on. Out of curiosity whats the importance of the hand brake being off?

For the sake of £20 i'll do the RH rear bearing next weekend and then go from there. I feel this may be an issue that I chase for some time...

My Defender has developed an odd rumble whilst driving along, fine at low speeds, but more noticeable at 40/50mph and when cornering right. My initial thoughts were wheel bearings but checked all 4 wheels today and the is no wobble side to side and no nasty noises when they are rotated, end float at the rear seems to be about 3-5mm which I believe is OK, so this has been discounted. I have checked all propshafts for play and nothing there either. The noise seems to originate from the rear and is accompanied by a vibration, could it be something rear diff related? Is there something else I should check? Anyone in South Warwickshire fancy coming out for a drive to lend another ear? Thanks for any help!

Evening All After successfully converting my 110 Hardtop to a truck cab, and welding the bulkhead back together it is now back on the road ready for it's first big trip to Wales. In preparation I have bought hood sticks, a 3/4 PVC Body Fit Tilt, numerous hooks and clamps and channels etc... I just have the interesting task to put it together, so a few questions 1/ Is anyone able to measure / take close up photos of the side and back of their trucks showing where all the cleats are positioned? 2/ Can anyone tell me how on earth I attach the tilt to the truck cab drain channel, there doesn't appear to be any compatible fixings on either of them. Photos below :

Thinking about doing this to my 110 V8 Pickup too, but probably a job for next year!