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Thanks! I got some oil in and one of the kids helping me to pump up the pressure while bleeding the system. Seems to be working. Cant check until I get me new UJ for my prop shaft. I never removed my exhaust system. I could actually jam my head up between engine, frame, exhaust........very scary scary scary, at one point I was stuck for a minute. I had not lifted up my Landy otherwise I would never had put my head there, but at least I could see where the slot was. Thanks all for the encouragement!!!!

ok, got it in (I hope!) Very strange. It would not engage. But duing all the bending of the small croks I pushed them together a little.Then it felt they went in but when taking out the rod it came out again. So it seems its TIGHT. If the croks are normal it seems very hard to get them in. If they are a little bent inwards the clip will engage but easily come out again. Once in a juggled it right/lleft/right..........until I carefully took away the pipe. It was good. Quickly put the cylinder in place and HOPE its all ok! Keep you updated once I get oil in! /Martin

Guys! Sorry to bother you! I got my clip today! I glued a small piece of pipe to the clip and now have a pipe which goes into the one glued on. Which I then simply can remove once clipped! BUT, I cant get the clip in. I dont even FEEL when I am at the correct location. I cant even feel when one of the two small croks are inside. (I think). The few times I have tried to put some pressure on it, the croks only start to bend. (The way I destroyd the old clip....) Any ideas? MAN why did I remove the rod......

Land Rover in Sweden had never sold a STC4807. They could get one for me. £100 !!!!!! No thanks. But I managed to find another supplier in Sweden. They just wanted £25 so I have ordered one. I got my "death clip" from Land rover so hopefully I will update my clutch post later today! Thanks everyone for now! /Martin

Yes, thanks. seems like that. Dont like that they state 95mm. Dont think the springclip would fit if 95. But my problem now is delivery time. Need to visit Land rover tomorrow anyway to get my "death clip" for the clutch fork. Will check what they want. Looking at UK price Original is about 65 pounds. Means they will probably charge me 80-90 pounds here in sweden. Lets see. Just seems odd that they have fitted a so much newer prop shaft to my 84 model.....Lets see. I will let you know tomorrow! Thanks and sorry for all the questions marks.... / Martin

Found this: It seems its the Heavy option! http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/uj-woes-251807-2.html

Thanks but my old UJ is not listed there. I will continue searching. The old is 27mm cap diam. and 93mm span cap to cap. The last in the list is 93mm span but its 30mm cap size.

Thanks. Not sure how much that helps!? The old one HAVE grease nipple. Should this mean that its the TVC100010? Any one who can measure one for me? Length Cap to Cap. RTC3346 is about 82mm My old is 93mm Cross THICKNESS is 27mm. Could be that this is the heavy duty UJ???? EDIT: Seems its only the front prop which has these UJ. Rear had the "normal" ones. If I dont get an answer here today I will drive to Land rover tomorrow and see if they have one which we can compare.

Sorry. Shouold have supplied some more information. The caps are the same size, but the length is to short!

CARP! Ordered 4 new Uj for my propshafts. I order the RTC3346,' Just removed one of the shafts and took out one of the UJ. Put in the new and........DOES NOT FIT! The old (and new) does not have the RTC number on the UJ. on the old I have the following information: C5_28 33 626KN Can some one tell me which UJ does is? Thanks

Sorry, I am a newbie to all kind of Landies so I really dont have a clue, but do you have a lift pump? It it looks like mine; L90-1984 N/A Diesel, then I could imagine that IF the membran cracks and the gasket between the liftpump and engine is tight, fuel could enter the engine via the hole to the cam. Not sure how well the gasket will keep leakage away....... Just a thought. Not sure how realistic this is.....

Thanks. Yes, might have to engage the exhaust. Found this link. In this thread there are two other links. I think I will figure it out know in one way or another. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42420 Also learned know that its called the "Death clip"

Thanks all. Well I call Landrover in Sweden and they will have a clip for me on Monday latest. It was "only" £10 I saw the cost for the clip in LRDirect..............Well Landrover in Sweden must also make some money..... Still concerned how to get the new clip on the fork. Anyone who can remember if the clip "clips" quite freely into the slot or if you need to "almost" compress the two small clips inorder to get them into the slot. Surely I could find a solution like the "pipe" solution above (which I also already tried) IF I only knew that I where in the right position. But since its impossible to see/feel it seems very hard.......... I am not sure if right hand driven Landys has the same "problem as I have. My exhaust pipe is in the way. So I do not have any sight at all into the hole. I need to tweek my hand behind the exhaust in order to get the rod into the hole....... CARP!!!!!!!

GREAT! I broke the clip!!!!! GW8IZR; How hard was it to get the two "clips" to fit in the slot? If I feel the slot with my finger and compare the length to the length between the clips, it seems they will really need to be pushed/fiddled into the slot!? I tried to bend them together a little; This is how I broke it. So the problem is not a new clip. The problem is the delivery time/cost. But....I have other things to do in the mean while

Ahhhh....clever. I am just trying to glue a tiny/long screwdriver to the washer but it wont hold since its the "greasy" type of plastic. On the other hand the screwdriver would be simple to get it to release once in place. But I will try the pipe. Very clever. Thanks!!!!! YES, action man hands are required. Not banana fingers like mine......

Hi; Need quick quick help. Just refurbished my clutch slav cylinder. During this, the pushrod was still attached to the clutch fork. It didnt follow out when removing the S.cylinder. Now before remounting I wiggled it a little and out it came. Quick happy since it also needs cleaning,......until it came out to its full extent........With the pushrod a plastic washer with a clip followed. It seems it centers the pushrod to the fork. Its rounded to let the pushrod ball move inside. 1. I dont see this plastic washer something in the Haynes..... 2. I WILL NEVER be able to refit this into the fork; with the clip???? The hole is small....distance to the fork is a couple of centimeters...... Is this washer required? Any ideas/comments? EDIT: You can actually see the washer on picture 3.12 (Clutch) in the Haynes..(Just barely)

Finally got all my parts I ordered from LRDirect. Of course there was a delivery problem, but I finally got them. Purchased: - Refurbishment kit; Clutch (Master/slave) (Will NEVER remove the master cylinder on a left hand side Landy again!!!!!!!!!)IMPOSSIBLE without removing brake vacum unit) (I know that completly new cylinders are cheap, but I wanted to do the refurbishment. It was interesting. (Master had started to leak oil on the floor in the cabin!) - New lift pump. - Mahle fuel filter No BP - Rear drum brake cylinders - 4 UJ för my shafts - Mounting bushes for bottom link radius arms. and some other minor things.

Ok! First lesson! Be CAREFUL when removing the top lid from the manual steering box. On the top is a needle bearing without any cages (EDIT1: There is a cage like. The neddles are in place in a top/bottom washer. They should NOT fall out, but mine had.........Did that happen when removing hte lid or is this my steering problem??) (Edit 2: OK, its the outer ring which has two washer likes where the needles are tucked into, but for some reason the needles fall out quick easily. I greades the needles a little in order for them to stuck better when putting all together. Its done now!= Anyway; . I was SOOO lucky. Four needles fell out but landed on the top of the steering gear. They could easily falling down in the actual gear assembly...... The question will be who to get it back with all needles in place without removing filter bottom and/or complete steering box!

Thanks, I dont mind this at all. As I said; I am a newbie on diesel engines. 42 years old and newer owned a diesel....... Since I havent had the Landy for such a long time yet, I dont know how it should run. Currently I am running with an electric pump (Waiting for the new lift punp) and the Landy seems to be working fine. Only tiny suggestion that something is not 100% correct would be the little high idle once you stop at a red light (Warm engine). In a petrol driven car you spray "start" gas on possible leaks, but I assume in a diesel car you cant do anything like this...... Once I get the new pump I will atleast open the lines going to the injectors incase some air is trapped there. Thanks! /Martin

I have order 4 new UJ. Cheap so why not change all. I manage to make a video. Sound quality is POOR. The sound is MUCH louder in real life and like Mountain Man also says, its not a wining. Its more of a DRONE! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYIRrFC-gm4&feature=youtu.be What do you thiink? Please note its KM/H and wait for me to decrease the speed to 45 after reachg 50!

Almost none is vissible out of the nut. But the strange thing is I cant screw it in or out more then about 1½ turn. It feels very easy to screw, but when I "hit" the stop it stops directly. Is it a bearing which you are adjusting? If I loosen the nut; Do I dare to give the steering "rod" coming out from the below a "smack" upwards with the hammer, to see if its stuck? I will probably remove the lid this afternoon, but its so tight there since the air filter bottom is there. I cant remove that due to "welding" issues

Hi again guys. I noticed my steering is quite hard. I read some post here about several issues. One will be the tires (Width), but I thought lets check the oil level on the manual steering box. When I tried to open the filler cap, I noticed the complete lid was loose. All four nuts. So I opened the adjust nut on the top and then fastened the four lidnuts. After that I added some oil which was missing, but then I thought I was going to adjust the clearence in the steering "play". But I could not notice any different. I could turn the "screw" (in the nut) ~1½ turn but then it was stopping.(Both out and in) I did not feel any change if it was in or out. I put it in the middle and fastened the nut. My steering now feels VERY tight. I dont have any free play at all. And I want a little. Can some one put some light on what you are actually doing when you adjust the screw? I would think to release the screw should give me some more play(clearence). Can I remove the top lid without bearings and gears to fall out? /Martin

Yes I noticed. Takes a while to find the correct part number, but you get a wide selection of choises. I have order a couple of things now. Shipping cost ended up similar to my initial UK supplier. Lets see what the delivery time will be. May 1 will of course be a holiday. So at least it should arrive on Friday.

Thanks Paul. Looks promising. Shipping seems cheaper. I will check out the part numbers I need and give it a try. Most important for me is the delivery time. I will do some serious surgery on the Landy during the summer so I have also some bulk parts which I will need. Thanks!

Ok, I bought an electrical pump and fitted it temporary. It seems to be working. Not been driving so far yet but no surprises so far. But for me this is a temporary solution. I buy my Landy stuff at "Rimmerbros". Is this OK? Quite expensive shipping to Sweden. I pay about 20 pund. So tomorrow I will continue with my other problem here at the forum. My wining. Make a youtube video of the sounds. Thanks so far! /Martin