Jump to content

Transfer Box Again

Recommended Posts

Sorry to raise this again but last time I had no replies.

I have changed the front output seal on the LT230 transfer box recently together with a new flange as the old one had a groove in it. None the less I still have a leak and am at my wits end as to why it should have failed.

Could it be that I simply did not seat the new seal in properly or is something more sinister? I'm getting fed up with the stench of hot EP90 every time I get out of the 110 and would lke to be able to park it without leaving splodges if oil everywhere.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank Les, I' ll have a look at the breather. I'm pretty certain its the output seal beacuse when I first changed it it cured the problem for about 1000km then it started again. How fool-proof are the seals? Also what about the little felt washer under the retaining nut? Can this let oil pass by?

Thanks again,


Link to comment
Share on other sites

The felt washer prevents oil from passing up the splines and then out of the flange where the nut is.

Some oil seals are very poor quality - depending on make obviously. Is there any chance that you didn't put the seal in far enough and the lip has been rubbed away by the back of the flange? It's a common mistake to put a seal in with the outside of it flush with the housing, whereas the highest part (which sometimes is the centre lip), should be level with the housing.

Les. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks very much for the info. I'll check out the breather and also I've ordered a new seal so I'll give that another go as well.

Regarding the installation of the new seal, I have been using my hub box spanner as a tool to knock in the seal but find that the round chassis strut is positioned perfectly to get in the way of swinging a hammer. Is there an easier way of pushing this seal in and also how far should it go in? Until it stops or before that point is reached? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The highest point of the seal should be flush with the housing. With ordinary flat seals-there is no specific area that is higher than anywhere else on the face of it. However, there are now double-lip seals, and this type of seal has a higher centre. When using this type of seal the main body of the seal actually ends-up what would seem to be too far inside it's housing. This is a picture of a 110 brake disc/hub assembly. This is the same type of seal and you can see what I mean about it looking like it's in too far.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy