Bowsero Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Have a 1990 Defender with 200 TDI Engine. Having trouble starting the engine. For a while it would start after 2-3 attempts. Engine turns but won’t start. Needed a new battery so changed that out. Problem continues and has gotten worse. It now wears the battery down until there is no power and have to jump it. Even when I jump it it takes 9-10 tries to start it. After it is started it runs great. If I turn it off it will start right back up. But if it sits for any period of time I run into the same issue of running the battery down and then having to jump it. Any suggestions on troubleshooting this issue would be helpful. Fairly new to the Defender world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Is there an air leak in the low pressure diesel side, so it is struggling to get fuel to the injector pump (filter air leak or blocked)? Is the diesel low pressure pumpeworking? Is the "stop solenoid" not opening properly? They would be my areas to investigate. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Does it cough and splutter and run weakly for a short while after difficult starting? If so, check the black braided fuel leak off pipes between the injectors for brittleness and splits - they harden and crack with age, and that allows air in when the engine is standing, which then lets the fuel drain back to the tank, so you end up having to purge the system on start up. If you have an airtight fuel system, the fuel can’t drain back down because of vacuum in the top of the system when the engine is standing. Short periods of standing down allow sufficient time for drain back, so that allows easier starting that can be confused with the benefit of starting a warm engine. If you don’t get that poor initial running, then you could have a bad fuel solenoid in the injection pump that is sticking closed when the pump and solenoid are cold. A less likely but easy to check item is the fuel tank breather being blocked and a vacuum building in the tank while running - that would make it hard for the pumps to get the injection pressure for starting, given the slower rpm during cranking, so next time it has stood for a long while, just open the fuel filler cap before starting and see if it makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowsero Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 Thanks. It does splutter for about 15-20 seconds. When I rev the engine for 5-10 seconds it runs smoothly after that. I will check for the leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.