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Snagger

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. That’s why they vent to the intake, rather than catch cans - the slight negative pressure (not a vacuum, and “slight vacuum” is an oxymoron) means small amounts of air will leak into the engine through any weak seals or gaskets, it out. Unless the engine is breathing heavily, you should lose much less oil through the breather system than you would through leaks. The Mann breathers seem to have a good reputation for good breathing and trapping all the oil, but for near £100 prices, they should be good!
  2. I bought mine second hand from the Protection and Performance owner at Billing, recently given a full service. I only used it on a winching course, so it has had an easy life since then. I’ll need to run it when I come home just to exercise the bearings and clean the commutator!
  3. I’ll be interested to see the second winch overhaul, as I have an XD9000i, basically the same except for the solenoid bridge.
  4. Snagger

    RAL 5228

    Powder coat is an awful thing for vehicles - it chips and the rust spreads underneath, but it’s a pig to sand back and repair. A decent rust preventative primer and decent quality paint are a much better solution.
  5. I don’t think there is any difference in bulkhead positions, only the depth of the foot wells (shorter on Defenders). Many people have managed to fit that engine into a Series engine bay with its associated radiator and not have too many problems, but electric fans seem to be part of the solution, like with many other engine retrofits. The wheels will be well out of position in the wheel arches, much too far back. The only way around that would be to mount the whole body further aft, removing the rear cross member and fitting extensions. That is IVA territory. Depending on where you are in the world, fitting an old body on a newer chassis could open up some legal issues. Your project would retain the Defender identity, so the Series body may cause Construction and Use regulation issues due to the headlight positions (not a problem on later SIIAs and SIIIs). That’d be worth checking with the relevant authorities before you even started the physical work. I’d agree with Bowie - not only is it a project fraught with problems and poor compromises, it you’d be destroying your cherished SII - it might wear most of the body, but everything else, especially the driving character, would have been scrapped. Far better to restore or sell that vehicle.
  6. I think it will be quite a popular view. I certainly share it.
  7. The diaphragm moves. I can hear it open on my 200Tdi as it is run to the intake of the air filter housing and echoes up the snorkel. It sounds like a muffled plastic drum being struck every so often.
  8. That green engine is almost certainly, but not quite definitely, a 2.5 of some description with a 12or 19J front cover but a 10J manifold. The injection pump lacks a boost diaphragm system, so it suggests the engine is a 12J with a few 10J parts. The Tdi uses much higher injection pressure than the older diesels, so I doubt the injectors would react well if you did make a hybrid system, and you’d have to significantly alter the impulse and metering of the injection. I’m sure it could be made to work, but with more than just a little adjustment - I think you’d need some expensive custom parts for both pump and injectors, and the pipes linking them would have to be custom, too. It would definitely not be worth the trouble or expense!
  9. That was one of the big attractions for me. Charge rate of relatively cheap and low rated units so that a short drive would be enough for full charge, near complete separation of the two systems and built in redundancy. At work, I have 10 generators, including backups, and the new model will have at least two more! 😄
  10. I had one of those on my 109 when I first bought it. Quite hard to source a replacement from LR at the time (92), and caused them a lot of confusion. It seemed the vehicle was originally intended to be exported to Australia, rather than being an order for the NRA. The purpose of that centre box appears to have been to greatly encourage catastrophic rusting of the chassis rail from the inside out.
  11. I think he means you need a couple of washers between bulkhead feet and outrigger tubes to move the bulkhead and thus doors forward. The panel gap at the back of the doors does look very tight, and any cross ailing off road might cause panel damage as the body flexes.
  12. That is exceptionally good for the year. That engine must have been rebuilt to be so clean at that mileage. As Ralph said, it’ll be well worth protecting the underside from corrosion, especially given winter conditions in Boston. You must have spent a good deal of money to get such a good vehicle over there, so congratulations and I hope it brings you many years of pleasure.
  13. Those conical thes seems adequate for road going vehicles. I’d be wary of venturing into deep water or very dusty conditions (desert, or African/Australian tracks in summer), but around the UK and most of Europe it should be fine.
  14. All in here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/easy-breathing/
  15. Was it the fuel that you were draining when it happened? It’s a good lesson to us all to use earth bonding before and during fuel drains and transfers. Glad you, your house and most of you vehicles and kit are ok.
  16. That is disappointing. Expected of Indian and Chinese parts, but not European standards. But LR has not been a European company for quite some time now.
  17. Setting the pinion is similar, but setting the carrier needs shims and takes patience and either a good bearing puller that won't damage the new bearings when you remove them to adjust shims, or a second set of bearings that you can ream out to slip on and off the carrier easily for the set up, replacing on the final assembly with the new set. There are guides on how to measure the total endfloat and determine how much goes on each side from one assessment without shims, which is how the factory does it, but I’d have to look for that.
  18. I think I probably cleaned mine every 10,000 miles (I service engines at 5,000 mile intervals). It got grotty in the 12J filter housing because of the engine breather dumping vapour into the housing intake, but once if fitted the finned plastic shell from a 12J filter to the K&N, the worst of it was avoided. It has been quite cheap to service.
  19. Start with one at the back, and if that isn’t enough, add one at the front.
  20. Oil bath are great if they have enough flow, being self cleaning when the oil sloshes about.
  21. It won’t reset unless you remove the end unions or plugs to manually move the shuttle. It has no internal springs and it doesn’t isolate a leaking system, so a circuit failure will cause the shuttle to move to one side (triggering the switch) and stay there. Restored pressure on both sides will not move the shuttle as the pressure is equal on both sides of the shuttle. If you apply more pressure to what had been the failed side to move the shuttle to the centre, unless you have a method to meter the correct volume of fluid doing so, it’ll overshoot and trigger again. Contrary to popular rumour, they don’t shut off a leaking circuit. I agree that they’re useless.
  22. I agree with Ralph - it’ll be touch up paint to prevent corrosion and to match the rivet heads to the surrounding paint. I fitted all these parts to my plain Defender bonnet, and there is no bonding, only rivets and and the studs and nuts of the four rubber buffers.
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