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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. It could well be a transfer box or gear box fault, but it is easier, quicker and cheaper to check the UJs first. A bad UJ can create all sorts of noises, depending on whether it is loose, seized, off centre, has ridges worn on the bearing surfaces, is dry, has a foreign object stuck in it, the UJ is loose in the yolks and so on. You do have to remove the prop shafts to test them - it can’t be done on the vehicle, and all the times that you see folk give a twist or wiggle to check a prop in place, they are wasting their time and deluding themselves. You have to move each UJ fully in each range of motion with torque applied in one direction and then the other on the shaft to feel for binding or tightness as well as any play. Fingers crossed, you’ll find a UJ issue and have a cheap repair. If not, you’ll have to start working through the boxes.
  2. UJs and mounting rubbers are always the first things to check for transmission noise. You’d be amazed at how much noise or vibration a bad UJ can make, and the torque direction and magnitude applied to the UJ can produce very specific results. UJs must account for 95%+ of transmission noise worries.
  3. Don’t go by price, or you’ll end up buying another better one very soon. Undercover Covers are the only maker I have never heard complaints about. Exmoor Trim do some good stuff, but their rag tops are poor quality Chinese made - I had one and it was a poor fit, let daylight through, and faded within a year to a lilac colour on the seam piping.
  4. Just to iterate what has been said before, ammeters aren’t very useful compared to voltmeters - it’s akin to having a fuel flow meter instead of a fuel quantity gauge.
  5. Whether fitted to an axle diff or centre transmission diff (like the Borg Warner units in RRs), LSDs and ATBs should not be run on brake rollers. You need the brakes done by “Tapley” test, where they lay a decelerometer on the floor and drive the vehicle and try an emergency stop. It is much vaguer as it only give a deceleration rate for the vehicle, not a reading for each wheel, but is adequate for MoT. An alternative would be to remove a half shaft from each axle.
  6. I think it’ll only be the threads that vary, but since you should be fitting new nylon nuts anyway, it’s a moot point. I’d go for an earlier suffix as the post 1980 vehicles went metric, which will be the later suffix. I don’t know what “D” suffix is, so I’d suggest going for “C”.
  7. What they consider better in this case makes it unfit for purpose. If they change the product, they have a responsibility to make sure their advert is up to date so customers know what they’re getting.
  8. Well, if that customer got what they wanted, then they would be happy. But if customers are ordering one thing, getting something else and then being brushed off, the service is bad and a similar reputation deserved. If they are advertising false specs for their product, then that is illegal.
  9. Then bite the bullet! It does make driving so much more relaxed, and the roads in NZ demand an overdrive rather than HRTC or diff swap. If it turns out that you don’t use it, you’ll be able to sell it on without an enormous drop in value - they’re always in demand.
  10. Comparison with the SIII is probably futile - I doubt it’d get that certification with modern day standards. The PHEV will be heavier than the V8 model, so the lower towing weight won’t be due to handling issues and resistance to Jack-knifing or oscillation, though I can see how a difference in wheelbase might justify such a restriction, the short wheel base models being less stable. Not will it be due to the tractive abilities. I can’t see what else it could be from other than the smaller brakes, unless the chassis has been compromised somehow to fit the batteries, which seems very unlikely.
  11. It would. But between the batteries, battery containers and mountings, BMS, battery cooling system (if it has one), charger system, motor, transmission coupling, cabling, I think it’d be surprisingly heavy. It think it also has the smaller brakes for the 18” wheels, where the V8 had big brakes and 20 or 22” rims.
  12. The towing restriction is more likely because of the braking limits and heavier empty weight of the PHEV with all its batteries and the motor as well as the engine and transmission, rather than attractive power or torque concern.
  13. Still not going to work - the broken side won’t turn anything, the good side will spin the diff centre and the broken stub in the opposite direction, but might not rotate the prop because of the mechanical drag of the UJs and transfer box innards. But you might hear grinding of the broken ends on rotation of one wheel, if the shaft hasn’t moved in its splines.
  14. The 300 head is thinner than the 200, so the tips of the injectors and glow plugs will be more off-centre than a 200’s. That is why the bowl in the piston crown was moved. Given that you changed the pistons for oversized, I suspect you have 200 pistons, so the bowl is in the wrong place for the head. It is also possible that the pistons are correct but fitted the wrong way around, so the bowl is offset in the wrong direction - the crowns have direction arrows near one edge, and the photo with the dented piston shows that arrow pointing aft, but I think it should point forward to the timing case.
  15. A broken half shaft is going to result in minimal resistance through the open diff, so neither the broken nor good side are likely to turn the prop shaft, unfortunately.
  16. Yep, hand brake lever gaiter is correct in the photo - it should be hidden from view in the cab. Fit it the wrong way and it’ll be even more prone to tearing. It’s a common mistake, especially when people compare to the Defender version.
  17. You disengage the clutch like changing gear, just like the Fairey and Toro. They do have full synchromesh, though, so no need to double declutch, even on a SI or SII.
  18. I did buy a new car down here as the driving is certainly very interesting and I wanted the certainty of an I damaged chassis and fully functional safety devices, so buying new was a necessity rather than luxury. In a place where you can use trusted systems to check a car accident history and condition, like the HPI checks, DVLA records and get AA/RAC inspections, I wouldn’t waste the money.
  19. I wouldn’t have remembered it without seeing your image, but yes, I do remember it now.
  20. That is curious. Are you sure the head and pistons are all 300 spec, not some from a 200?
  21. The stub shaft should be in whichever bracket hole gives the longitudinal link to the brake actuator the most horizontal axis. It’s possible that the slot on the bracket has become rounded. You might be able to weld and file it back into shape. The stub shaft can wear a pronounced taper, and the bush inside the relay wears out. Replacing any worn parts will be transformative. As for the longitudinal tie rod to the bell housing, it’s an option rather than a mod, so nothing to affect the legality, history, legitimacy or insurance of the vehicle, but it too has an enormous impact on hand brake efficacy, and also helps preserve the engine and transmission mountings. It should have been standard.
  22. All the justification needed is that it makes you happy. If the vehicle is rarely used, a new overdrive is unlikely to recoup the cost unless fuel is astonishingly high. But if you enjoy the vehicle, and an overdrive will enhance that enjoyment, then that is all the reason you need. Money doesn’t bring happiness - it’s function is to be exchanged for the things that bring you happiness!
  23. My suspicion is that you have a poor contact that is improving under the lateral forces of the turn, perhaps a wiring contact, but more likely the ranging arm on the sender making poor contact with the resistive windings, side forces pressing the float arm and ranging arm harder against the windings.
  24. If you can find nylon hose like the larger sections from the filter and injection pump but of the correct diameter, that should work. Warming the ends of the hose sections enables them to fit the metal pipe ends.
  25. I don’t like the idea of buying a brand new car simply because of the enormous depreciation in the first year. I’m also wary of buying any new model, regardless of type or manufacturer, in the first few years because of all the small flaws that have yet to be ironed out. However, if I was in the market for a new car, I’d be up for a Grenadier. My biggest disappointment with it is that it is no longer to be built in the UK. I’m sure that it will have at least as good quality, if not better, being manufactured where it is, but supporting the UK is a significant sales point for a lot of Brits, just as many other nationals would be similarly and rightly patriotic in supporting their home manufacturers. Right now, with international politics being what they are, French involvement stick in my craw, and I am half French (it’s my excuse for all my character flaws 😜), but it’d not be enough to stop me buying. Tata’s ownership of JLR, and their behaviour to loyal fans of the marque since their takeover, has destroyed all my loyalty to that brand, though.
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