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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. A fag-packet calculation suggests 255/85s give an 8% gearing increase over 235/85s, close to my previously calculated 10% step from 7.50s to 9.00s, if I got those figures right. They’re a modest gearing increase that shouldn’t significantly adversely affect performance or fuel economy, and may improve them, while giving a considerable benefit to ground clearance and low pressure foot print on soft surfaces. My concern would be going too wide rather than tall - that increases rolling resistance and aquaplaning tendency.
  2. The liner in the last photo has certainly slipped. Given the reputation later engines have for slipped liners, I’d be looking at having all of them replaced with top hat liners, to head off future problems. If you can remove that slipped liner first, it’d give you an idea of whether the block is worth the cost of doing that. Hopefully, the rest of it is good to be reused with little more than new shells and seals. That tapper bore looks reparable. It can be over bored and sleeved, or tug welded and rebored. I’m not that familiar with V8s - is that bore for a hydraulic tapper, needing a good seal, or is it just for a n operating rod with no seal? If the latter, I’d just nib the bur and leave it- as it is a gouge, not a crack.
  3. That rather illustrates the point, though, that it is a road car that has to be specifically added to in order to be proficient off-road, especially the big engined model which will always be hobbled by bad tyres and wheels. The most important element of an off road vehicle is the tyres. Get those right and you don’t need electronics. Get it wrong, and even the electronics can’t save you, as happened in that video.
  4. It’ll be obvious when you fit it; that bend is specially to clear the diff pan, so is on the vehicle’s right side and bows toward the bumper. I’m not sure if left hand drive vehicle have that bow in the rod.
  5. The product has an excellent reputation, the only minor common complaint being a light rattle which is easily cured by bonding the pads to the calliper pistons as reb said.
  6. They all the same on the metal body panels, but later models have the plastic corner caps which change the appearance, as well as deeper sill cover plastics, and the Brooklands kits have much deeper sills and extended bumpers which do reduce ground clearance a fair bit.
  7. That’s exactly what should be there, though they’re a similar grey rather than the black of the wheel arch type. Halfords and other motor factors sell similar sized rivets with screw out centres, so you can reuse the same rivets repeatedly. Only trouble is finding them in grey.
  8. I suppose it’s a bit unrealistic to expect their PR office to engage fully with every Tom, Dick and Harry who calls them or every club and forum, as they can’t know which enquiries are serious and informed, and which are tyre kickers looking for a new subject to waste time or unfairly malign. It’s a pity, though, and it’s worth a try. Well done for what you have managed to get.
  9. They chose the off road package. The tyres are very tame tread for that, but the sizes are laughable on 20” rims, especially for the US market, and that is a JLR limitation, as is the specification of tyre type and brand in the package, which appears to be a very bad choice by JLR. As for the front recovery point, that is a joke. You have to remove the plastic under tray to get to it, and it’s very low down. How useless is that if you’re beached in soft sand, deep mud or on rocks? They should have the recovery points below the head lamps as part of the off road package, as well as an easily accessible rear point. Given the supposed nature of the vehicle, they really ought to be standard across the entire range.
  10. Q That was theLR off road package - poor tyre and choice combination and no recovery points. As for the wheel size, aren’t the smaller rims precluded on the big engine versions? The point of the video is to run the cars exactly how they were delivered by the manufacturer with the off-road option lists specified. The LR is the better road vehicle for sure, but those simple omissions of a decent tyre size and some recovery eyes make it a poor off-roader. With bigger diameter tyres with a better tread pattern, it’d be unstoppable, so why is it hobbled?
  11. Who’d have thought sensible wheel and tyre sizes were important off road? Not JLR, evidently…🙄
  12. Take the plastic cones off the rear hub drive flanges and look for play in the splines of the flanges and half shafts. Also chock the wheels and remove the prop shafts to check the UJs - you can’t check them with the shaft fitted.
  13. This is the result when metal fabricators get into the lucrative aftermarket aluminium car parts market without any engineering knowledge. An expansion vessel with no pressure relief system could only have one result. The standard LR black tank, or the later translucent white version, is ideal as long as you have the space to fit it. An aftermarket tank would work just as well if it has the required connections, capacity and a pressure relief cap, but is going to cost more. You must ensure, whichever you use, that the tank is the highest part of the system. On 300Tdis, the thermostat housing sits very high and this does often cause vapour locks if there is any blockage in the small pipes.
  14. I plant to fit the cooler to the R380 in my RRC. I’d prefer to use a D2/P38 cooler and the Gen Parts oil stat unit, but if necessary, I’ll use the Syncro Gearboxes adaptor that has no thermostat - those genuine ones are rare and command silly prices.
  15. Those light recesses will collect not just mud but snow. That will impede light transmission and visibility. Unfit for purpose is putting it mildly. Whoever designed them should go back to designing toasters.
  16. It should be behind the instruments. Look for a fairly large steel cased relay with black/white stripe wires and a single white with red stripe wire (if yours is the type tested when the starter is on, rather than press-to-test).
  17. Who makes Duratrac? I meant kerb in the above.
  18. I’d not get that from Paddocks. They’ll sell some shiny Chinese part that could cause all sorts of issues. They’re not a complicated unit, but there are enough “points” in distributors that if they’re made from poor quality components, you’ll never get the engine running well and will not only waste a lot of time tuning it and maybe suffer poor reliability, but would spend a lot more than the difference in price on wasted fuel from poor ignition. Why not bite the bucket and go for electronic ignition? That produces much better reliability and a quantum leap in mpg. There is plenty of experience on the forum with that, so I’m sure others can give great advice.
  19. Welcome, Mike. If you take a close look at where the barrels fit the latch assembly, you’ll see a spring loaded pin sticking out from the barrel into the sleeve. If memory serves correctly, you need to press that pin in while the key is inserted, but I may have remembered that wrongly. Anyway, with the am arm removed from the barrel end, press the pin in and the barrel should be removable from the outside of the door. Hopefully you don’t need to remove the entire latch assembly to get at that pin!
  20. I had seen that as Goodyear too, with the “er” the only bit of the name visible. Another on the list. It’s is becoming extensive - the Dunlops I had last on the Volvo were very poor, wet or dry, on the roads in DXB and wore very quickly, so no more of them(the all weather tyres that replaced them last summer have been far better, even in the hot dry summers, and it think they’re Continental Cross-something). The Hankook ATs on the RRC LSE rims I bought for the 109 went onto my RRC and were far inferior to the worn BFG ATs they replaced on wet or frosty roads. I have been unimpressed by Michelin. I have been really pleased with BFG, so may just stick with them. But I had thought General Grabber and Cooper highly reputable. Unless you hot a hard object at high speed, like a kept, brick or deep pot hole, then there is no excuse for that failure, Ed. 🙁
  21. Amazing description, though - citing its originality, in the same sentence states it has a V8…. Also has SII or III axles, and the SIs never had a “traditional” black interior. It could be a great toy, but to get it authentic is going to take a fair bit of work and cash. As such, £10k might be unjustified, though easily attainable.
  22. Goodyear have just taken bottom spot on my list below the godawful Roadchamp POS tyres that were on my disposable Chavalier when I bought that as a runabout - at least they just has hard, greasy rubber and had one egg shaped with a bulge in the tread the size of my hand, but none let go! Let’s face it - XCL, XZL and G90; if they were bought by the MoD for our servicemen to use, they must have been dreadful.
  23. Without the bevel, the sharp edge of the head could gradually wear itself to the seat of the hub hole, so the stud would become loose. You could step the holes in the hub to match, but it’d be better to turn the heads a bit to fit - I wouldn’t want to render the hubs incompatible with genuine studs. Given the apparent quality issues, I’d want to have a new stud tested for tensile load; they’re a bit important.
  24. Just saw that autobugger changed “hark” to “bark”. Sorry for not picking it up earlier.
  25. If they’d made the rear lights more similar to the NAS Defender lights, with or without the black plinths, and had them near the body corners, they’d work better, be cheaper, wouldn’t require the ridiculous duplication brought about by poor position of the primary lights and would bark far better to the predecessor. As it is, they are extremely badly designed, arguably unfit for purpose.- especially the way they hold mud.
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