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Snagger

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. Snagger

    Which shock absorbers

    When I bought my TIC (aka Heystee) parabolics from Chris Perfect, they came with Pro-Comp ES3000s. They were too soft for a regular vehicle, only useful for an offroading toy or maybe a vehicle that is kept empty. If you carry any load, then 9000s are a better rate, but are slightly firm unless very heavy. However, Pro-Comp quality is poor. Expect rapid rusting of the main body as the paint is cheap, and if you fit the rubber boots over the piston, expect piston rust within a couple of years that will erode the seals to cause leaks within a few years. They are supposedly guaranteed for the lifetime of the vehicle, and Perfect did replace those that failed, but he later retired and the subsequent failure had to be paid for - just try getting another trader to honour the warranty of a product sold through another party! I'll never fit Pro-Comps again.
  2. Snagger

    Piston rings

    You can only measure the gap objectively with the ring in the bore. As the outer circumference wears (as appears to be the case with the old ring), the gap will grow.
  3. Snagger

    Worth a punt? LED Headlamps

    The rules are there for good reason. "I didn't think I'd be caught" is not much of a legal defence if you are, and bad lights could be the cause of an accident that results in a close inspection of the car.
  4. Snagger

    A cautionary tale

    likewise. It's a shame they don't use a piece of ply to protect the face in the packaging.
  5. Snagger

    200 TDI engine sump - Gasket or RTV?

    Did you let the sealant dry for a few minutes before fitting the sump, Tim? Few do, but RTV is supposed to be let semi-cure before fitting the parts to prevent it from being squeezed out of the joint.
  6. Snagger

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    Some fibreglass exhaust wrap around the near section of exhaust will sort that, or a heat shield like John suggested. I know a lot o people don't like wrap because it can hold moisture and cause rust, but if the pipe section is clean of rust and given a decent coat of high temperature paint, it should be fine - I haven't had any rust appear on my down pipe in the decade it has been wrapped, possibly because of the paint layers I gave it.
  7. Snagger

    Sunroof rebuild

    I salute your persistence and patience!
  8. Snagger

    Steering cowl shroud twisted

    With the cowl straight, the ignition switch is well out of position. I suspect the column is misaligned.
  9. Snagger

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    Cutting and welding would work, but it's got to be easier and more reliable to fit a spacer, even if that means the GKN sump is in the way if you need to drop the 230 sump. Given the expense of the GKN and its oil issues, and the expense you've gone to with the new sump, it'd be a shame to lose that little bit of capacity and run the risk of cracks and leaks.
  10. Snagger

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    That's a big lump, but the oil capacity is probably quite small and so it won't make a great deal of difference. Still, being so small and the GKN so oil sensitive, and the 230 so robust and having so much more oil, I'd look to trim the 230 sump. How about making a spacer neck that would be sandwiched between sump and overdrive to drop the sump down? It'd further increase oil capacity, too, and need only be a sheet (or two) of ali cut to size with the bolt hols drilled. That would be the simplest, neatest and most reliable solution.
  11. Snagger

    Steering cowl shroud twisted

    Peaklander's point about the ignition switch mounting and steering lock is a good one - if you put the cowl screw into the bottom of the lock clamp, is the screw 90 degrees to the dash or is it pointing towards the door sill? It should be vertical from the driving seat perspective, and if it is pointing to the side, the column must have rotated but if vertical the column must be correct.
  12. Snagger

    United States Rangers Special Operations Vehicle

    Similar, but not as robust as the WMIK: http://www.dunsfoldcollection.co.uk/collection/military/a-e-wimik-lhd-demonstrator#v
  13. Snagger

    Steering cowl shroud twisted

    If the indicator bracket's spline is sitting correctly in the column's groove, then the column must have rotated in its clamps. You'll need to slacken the clamps on the engine side of the bulkhead and look for distortion and adjustment on the clamp at the bottom of the column (above the toe of the foot well).
  14. Snagger

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    How much overlap is there on the two sumps, Ralph? Would it be possible to shave both of them a little on the outside without breaching the inner faces, or does a more substantial lump need removing? If it's only small, you might be able to use those special alloy brazing rods like George used on his RR floor to use with small ali patches or even to internally reinforce shaved corners. In the mean time, if you run only one of the big sumps, I echo Reb's view that the overdrive sump is more important than the 230's. If you did fit the Roamerdrive, then the 230 sump would be of great benefit, but with the GKN, it's not going to make a world of difference.
  15. Snagger

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    The gasket may just have become too compressed and the unit just needs nipping up on the bolts. Failing that, removing it to replace the gasket, either with a new gasket or RTV sealant, should sort it out. A small, rectifiable oil leak is no reason to revert to standard gears, but it does need attention before your oil levels can drop enough to harm anything.
  16. Snagger

    200 TDI engine sump - Gasket or RTV?

    It'll leak. Far better to use RTV like LR did.
  17. Snagger

    Snorkel / RAI

    Nail and head. The petrols' electrics did prevent water ingestion, so snorkels were not of much benefit. Diesels were less common, so the snorkel kits were rare (and so expensive). Now that almost all Defenders are diesel and not as hydrophobic, snorkels are more beneficial but the Defender intake system is also far easier and cheaper to add a snorkel to. More people go on far flung adventures, or at least aspire to, than in the past, so the desire for the extra protection from dust, sand or water gives cheap and easy peace of mind. In fairness, though, modern society seems to enshrine the roughty-toughty image, which is why so many now sport lumber-jack beards and spend far too much time in the gym, and oversize tyres and snorkels are sometimes the Land Rover manifestation of that trend.
  18. Snagger

    2.25 diesel overhaul

    The block of a 200 Tdi is almost identical to that of the 2.25, one of the few significant changes being the lack of oil jets at the bottom of the bores on the older engine. The timing system is different, basically the same as the 2.25 petrol and there is a Kiwi running some videos on his work - links are in the video forum, and his surname is Croker. The head is comparable to the Tdi once the manifolds are off. The biggest difference is the injection pump, and it's best sent to a specialist for overhaul anyway along with the injectors. So, the manual is basically all you need b ut Mike's videos are nice for perspective and inspiration. Have courage - these engines are pretty simple and the only big trap is the timing set up, especially the skew gear running off the cam shaft, but the manual explains how to set all that up.
  19. Snagger

    Starting handle storage clips

    The MoD clips are very good, though I had to repair a damaged one on my Lightweight for it to work. The simpler clips in David's photo are fine initially, but they loosen with age and need a bit of tweaking. They're available in a range of sizes from most hardware shops and are not Land Rover specific.
  20. Snagger

    New user new 2a owner

    Engine oil. Don't use "heavy oils" like transmission oil as it's too thick and won't splash about the gauze while driving. The idea of the filter is that the gauze is wet for dust to stick to it, but not submerged as you'll get oil ingestion or just a restriction to the air. As the oil sloshes around in the casing from bumps, cornering and braking, it splashes up the the gauze and cleans off the accumulated dirt and also re-wets it. Its essentially self-cleaning, and in that respect, far better than paper filters. But the oil needs to be thin enough to splash and run easily. If you don't have oil, then diesel or kerosene would probably do.
  21. I think Mudstuff.co.uk make one for the Defender, with map pockets above the sun visors and fixings for the visors, mirror and interior lamp. I think it was made of ABS plastic.
  22. Snagger

    Hand painting - which paint?

    Be careful with brush painting spray paints. I had half a can of NATO green left over that had been sprayed on a Lightweight. When I brush or roller painted some of it for touch ups on that same vehicle, the match was perfect but faded fast over the ext few years while the sprayed areas remained the original shade. I don't know if it was a lack of thinners or hardener additive, but the patchiness looked awful.
  23. Snagger

    Defender 110 TD5 2006

    It depends on how bent, but yes, it will more rapidly wear half shaft splines, strain the diff and its bearings, and put stress on the stub axle and wheel bearings. Depending on the position and severity of the bend, you could have the half shaft grind against the inside of the stub axle, compromising both. Hard to know without seeing it. I thought it was very uncommon to bend a 110 rear axle, far more common the front, hence my surprise, especially given the other damage on the front. Did you hit the same item with the back end?
  24. Snagger

    Alternators....

    The thin wire (brown with yellow stripe, if I recall correctly) should only be live when the ignition is on. The bigger brown wires should be permanently live as they run straight to the battery. The small brown wire is what excites the coils in the alternator when the ignition is on, and will take some current drain if the ign is on but the alternator is not producing charge. The dash warning light is in that wire's circuit, so when the ign is "earthing" to the coils, the light illuminates. Once the alternator provides charge, it will produce a 14v charge on that wire trying to reverse the current, but as the batteries and ignition switch will also be at 14v through the battery charging wires, there is no potential difference across the bulb and no current in that wire. The large wires will be at 12v with the alternator giving no charge, but they will not have current in a healthy alternator as the circuit is controlled by the diode pack on the back of the alternator. Once the alternator is providing charge, the wires will be fed in the other direction through the diodes and will have 14v. If you remove the plug from the alternator and still have a light when the ign is on, then there is a short between the small wire between the bulb and alternator plug. If you got no light, then try removing the plug and shorting the small wire to a good earth - with the ign off, there should be no light, but it should come on immediately if you short it to the battery -ve or a good earth. Check the condition of the big wires to make sure they have no shorts and the terminals are clean. If that is all good, then there is no reason a new alternator should blow unless you have a bad battery.
  25. Snagger

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Exactly. We all know the Defender had its faults, and construction quality was poor, but it didn't cost £45k and was relatively easy to fix in the field until they started putting electronics into it. That's why the ROW Defenders stayed with the Tdi. Yes, they couldn't pass EU emissions with those engines anymore, and so ECUs became essential for the common rail injection systems, but at least the rest of the vehicle lent itself to export and overland use and to work vehicle applications, and at least those taking one on a round the world tour could take a minimal amount of spares that pack small, like UJs, a wheel bearing kit and if feeling paranoid, the single ECU for the engine. They didn't need entire hubs with bearings prefitted, or suspension arms with prefitted bushes, or compressors, crates of ECUs, multiple air bags...
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