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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. It could easily get picked up by the flow and clog the pick up pipe, Sod’s law at the worst possible moment, and cut the fuel off. The dissolving gum on the tape will likely also cause issues - though hopefully the filter would get most of it, any dissolved into liquid state could do all sorts of damage to injectors, gum piston rings and so on. I think you need to drain the tank, discard the fuel and and clean it out properly.
  2. I don’t. That leaves the path of refurbishing it yourself. People are often concerned that they lack the skills or tools to do so, but so the vast majority of so called professionals. The difference is that by doing it yourself, you can be sure the parts were inspected and replaced as necessary, with no faulty parts reused, and you’ll have the incentive to do a proper job.
  3. It’s a scam for manufacturers to get around emissions related taxes and for those who have some environmental concerns but don’t understand how machines work to be ripped off by having a vehicle that is a poor compromise, incorporating the negatives of both ICE and EV.
  4. There are very few companies in the industry who are trustworthy. For steering boxes, Adwest are the only refurbished units that I’d buy, given that they are the original manufacturer. The recon industry is 10% re, 90% con.
  5. Likewise. My pressures are for oil around 90oC.
  6. If the pump is disabled, then every time you apply the pedal, the accumulator will lose a little pressure, so leave the ignition off and pump the pedal as elbekko said. Once that’s been done, it should be depressurised, but I’d start by slowly undoing the bleed nipples on the valve pack and accumulator. It’s worth unplugging the pump just to avoid accidental pressurisation should you forget while whorking.
  7. All the four cylinder should have 25psi at warm idle and 55 at mid and high rpm. I’m getting around 18-20 and 50 respectively. I got 25/55 on my 12j, but that didn’t have a turbo taking a considerable flow, but I think Ralph got the book figures.
  8. I can’t remember now (it’s five years that it’s been in storage), but I think my rate was double that. I did ask Richard Turner and he said he would live with it rather than fix it, but I’m a perfectionist and a worrier!
  9. The body dimensions are identical. There shouldn’t be any major fitting problems, though there may be differences in fixing holes, so it’s possible that you may have to drill a few bolt holes. I think that’s unlikely, though.
  10. If you can get an old R380 reverse light switch from your local garage, they work well as a flywheel locking tool. They may have a broken one in a bin or a work used one that they’d sell cheaply.
  11. I rebuilt all of mine to be the EU way, as Mud only sold the US version back then. I also installed coloured LEDs to replace the yellowish incandescent bulbs. I had a bit of a job wiring up that console! To change from US to European configuration, you just need to remove the rocker and turn that around and reposition the bulbs or LEDs so that they swap ends while keeping the same terminals. Make sure you open the switch body with the rocker receiver facing straight up and the terminals pointing to the ground, and try to do it gently, so the innards don’t fall out - it’s best to see how they go together so that you can put them back together properly after working on the bulbs. Make sure you don’t loose the small springs in the corners, which are the electrical connections between terminals and the bulb/led legs.
  12. If they have a special switch made for the job, it might be that simple, but if you’re using a simple two or three position switch like I did, then no. But you’ll get there; it just takes a thick coat of looking at and a couple of teas to work it out.
  13. That’s a really good idea with the multi plug. Getting the rear wiper to work with the Carling switch took a lot of head scratching because the original switch works in a very different way and feeds power back from the park switch system. It’s a bit like how the light switches for your upstairs hallway work in a house. Looking at the wiring diagrams helped me figure out how to make it work. I can’t really remember now, but I think the park circuit wire to the switch needed connecting to the switch output with a diode, as the old switch is on in both positions - in the on position, the trigger circuit is closed and the park circuit open, it when you turn the switch off, the trigger circuit opens and the park circuit is closed (until then park switch on the motor is opened by the cam). That’s why the switch condition light flicked off every cycle, which was cured with more diodes.
  14. Tidy work. The window trims came out looking really tidy and look like the quality you’d expect from the factory. I think you may have problems with the stereo fouling the terminal blocks for the upper switch bank - I have a similar bank in the top of my pod and the stereo in the middle (CB below that), and the bottom corners of the blocks just clear the stereo casing. It’d be worth a test fit before you go to the trouble of fitting all the special terminals and the plastic blocks to the wiring for those switches, just in case you need to use female blade terminals directly onto the switches without the blocks, but the blocks are great if you have the space. I did the rear wiper on one of those switches and had to make up a wiring bundle with diodes to get it to work without the park switch making the on light flash off as it went through the larked position. It’s nothing major, but I found it irritating. I have it on a three position switch, using the mid position run through an intermittent relay, the second position is direct for continuous sweep. The continuous position is pointless as a driving mode, so I’ll be adding the washer jet to that position to free up it’s separate switch for another function. How did you set yours up? I’m always after better ideas...
  15. The head had been rebuilt very shortly before the car was taken off the road (bought by a fellow club member for parts, and he sold me the engine). It made me suspicious, so I pulled the head once I got home and found no1 badly scored, so it was all rebored. It burned the oil once fitted, so even though the head had been done, I put new stein seals on it. Twice. Then the turbo failed a few years later, so was sent for rebuild. That was a bodge job by a company in Reading, so it was replaced with a rebuilt one from Turbo Technics. Then the head gasket went and there was a little gas erosion, so the head was fully rebuilt again with some new valves and guides. If it’s the stern seals after all that, then I’ll be shocked. But I thought stemn seals gave smoke on start up and then cleared, where I get smoke even after a long run on idle or overrun, but not when the engine is working. I was wondering about the turbo getting too much oil, and low turbine gas pressure allowing oil past the seals into the turbine to be burned. That’s why I got excited about the Binky video with the turbo and the chat about the restricting banjo bolt. Maybe I have a bad return hose, but I was able to look through it when it was removed. I suspect bore glazing from using Slick 50 for the first 20k after running in (I since learned it’s notorious for it) and maybe from vegoil use before it was well enough run in. But that doesn’t explain the slightly low oil pressure. The crank had no marks on it at all, and the shells were just going through the white into the copper on the thrust side, so I replaced them switch a new standard set. I’ll have to check the crank with my vernier, now that I have one, when I go to hone and re-ring it (replacing the oil jet banjo bolts at Ralph’s suggestion while I’m at it, and the oil pump spring with new too). I hope you get more success than I had. I’ll be following with interest, like I did Ralph’s engine thread, hoping to learn more. I would love to just wash my hands of that engine and get another from Turner, but I won’t have the budget, so everything I can learn from you guys has to be of benefit.
  16. Daisy chi I g is going to use up a lot less of the limited volume inside the console than those blocks. I do it by stripping a section of the first wire and twisting the stripped end of the second wire to that, sometimes solders, and covered by heat shrink. If you’re using LEDs for the switches, and they don’t have incorporated resistors to knock the voltage down to about 3v for green, blue or white, 2.6v for yellow or about 2v for red, then you can use a single resistor for the paralleled LEDs that will be all illuminated together, but it’s frowned upon because did one LED stops working for any reason, the rest of them will get an increased voltage. With a string of the size likely in this application, if two stop, they’ll likely cause the rest to burn out. It is best to have each LED have individual resistors when run in parallel. You can run them in series so their own internal resistance takes care of the voltage. You could see how you get on with four or five LEDs in series - five would be better as I think the alternator might burn a string of four out.
  17. I used the brush on tin, same colouring and picture, just the word “Shield”. It may be the difference between brush on and aerosol, or it could just be a change in name of the same product. The stuff I used was a mixture of waxoil and bitumen, so if that has the same, then it’s pretty reasonable stuff. I brushed it straight on to a new galvanised chassis after washing it and leaving it to dull for a month outdoors. It took a few coats to get a nice even finish with the roller, but it has stayed in excellent condition for over 15 years.
  18. Twenty five years ago, I was renting a little aircraft in western France (a Jodel D112) that has no starter - it uses a VW beetle engine stripped down for weight. Starting was done by hand swinging the prop, just like you see with WWI vintage aircraft. It was a bit awkward to do alone - it had no parking brake. I’d have to check the wheel chocks, set the engine controls and ignition, swing the prop to start the engine, then remove the chocks from the wheels by getting between the running prop and the front of the wing, then run around the back of the wing to get in before it wandered off... I didn’t really enjoy that machine. 🤬
  19. Red oxide os good. Regular Hammerite is terrible, probably the worst thing for the job. But their Underbody Shield works quite well over the red oxide if you’re not after something pretty or wipe clean.
  20. A lot of the 50s RAF jets were started with explosive cartridges. It looks all sorts of wrong!
  21. There is a tab bracket on the bulkhead to attach the top end of the flexible hose. Right hand drive models have a bracket fixed to the block’s rear cam gallery cover plate for the lower end of the flexible hose. A rigid pipe then runs over the flywheel housing and down to the cylinder. You can also do it the Defender way of a rigid pipe all the way to the inboard side of the left foot well and run a flexible hose to the cylinder.
  22. Oh, I agree. It’s a great backup on the petrol models, and I made sure to find a replacement for the missing handle for my wife’s lightweight as soon as I bought it. It’s not that hard for a modestly fit person to do.
  23. It depends on the generation. 300Tdi and later have short stub axles and narrow hubs, which by definition means the rear half shafts are shorter and the front stub shafts are shorter. They also had the thicker half shafts with 24 splines, while the earlier axles had 10 spline shafts. None of that is interchangeable. I don’t know if the later stub axles and shafts will fit an early swivel housing, but I have my doubts. I also have no idea when LR introduced a seven bolt swivel, but I suspect it’s at the same time as the rest of the changes - introduction of the 300Tdi, which I think was 1994.
  24. I think different generations of vehicle used different calliper bolts, early being some sort of imperial thread and later a metric thread. You can’t mix and match as the bolts will have to fit the callipers snugly, not just the threads. Vented callipers are the same as non vented for that age, just using a spacer block and longer bolts (4 per calliper) to join the halves. You can swap them, add the spacer or remove it, all as needed. Since the thickness of the hubs varies with generation, I imagine the brake discs are also specific to the age of vehicle.
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