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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. Drumstick is right in that on certain movements of the suspension, the panhard rod will move the axle sideways a little and the radius arms won’t be at perfect 90 degrees to the axle, so that could be a factor. More likely, though, is that the stop locks are set a tiny bit differently to each other - a small difference on the bolt makes a magnified difference at the tyre shoulder. A small tweak to wind that stop bolt out a bit to give about an inch clearance on full lock between tyre and radius arm should prevent contact when driving.
  2. https://www.holden.co.uk/p/3_in_1_fuel_oil_water_temps A bit dearer than when I bought one. More than double, if I remember rightly.
  3. The axle is further aft than a 110, certainly, as as said above, the tub floor and door bottom are much lower than Land Rovers had, so the void where the top of the LR fuel tank sits is nonexistent on the Grenadier. I think most 109s have more articulation than is shown in the cross axle above!
  4. It’s an absolute must. Countersunk bolt with nylock nuts and reinforcing washers of 25-30mm diameter would suffice, but nothing smaller than that. Screws would pull straight out of the wood in an accident with anything heavy attached to the rails.
  5. Much better if only running one locking or semi locking axle diff for it to be in the back. Ashcroft don’t make Salisbury ATBs, which is a real shame, but Eaton make a Trutrac for the Salisbury, and Quaife make them with the six scroll gears peruse like the Ashcroft unit (expensive, but not bad compared to a full locking diff).
  6. The twin tank system on Series Land Rovers used the cradle mounted selector tap as David mentions (diesels had an extra valve for the return line on the same cradle with a mechanical link to the feed valve). They have two plunger switches on the cradle that are pressed by a gusset on the tap handle to connect whichever tank is feeding the fuel to the gauge. I suspect your dash switch is a cheaper and simpler alternative that Santana chose in place of the LR system, with the tap itself operated by that blue lever. As David said, lifting the seat base and removing the inspection panel should a
  7. Could you ask him to keep a lookout for a pair of rear seat latch covers in the paler grey (the roughly square plastic boxes that cover the seat latches on the C-pillars with the hole for the release button) please? Mine are holed for a dog guard that is no longer to be fitted. Sorry for the hijack.
  8. My Halon extinguisher is mounted with large Quikfists to the back of my cubby box (bulkhead deleted), along with a large Maglite in medium fists. You could attach a steel mesh to the seat backs with decent P-clips and bolts through the seat frame to have secure mountings for the security devices, cheaper and sturdier than the offerings above.
  9. Something like that, maybe more, but it should be progressively harder with each push, not a sudden change. But if you run the engine for thirty seconds or so, you should be able to switch it off, leave the car for hours and then come back and have an easy pedal for a few pushes before it firms up. If it is hard straight away, then the vacuum is already gone and that means the servo is leaking.
  10. Those 3-in-1 gauges were standard for MoD SIIIs, certainly all the FFRs had them. I got a similar one with modern gauge innards (no need for the original voltage stabiliser) from Holden Vintage and Classic. It has fuel in the bottom arc, oil temp on one side and coolant temp on the other (left and right respectively, if I remember correctly). It wasn’t cheap, but it has been perfect in operation. Mine is 12v, but I think it is available in 24v. I repaired the 24v oil temp gauge on my wife’s Lightweight FFR with a new gauge in the old cluster, and it had an electrical sender in the lef
  11. Of course, but that tends to be older vehicles modified for extreme off-roading, rather than a brand new, standard vehicle in a place where generally only experienced drivers go. More like the drowned vehicle. But my point is not a criticism of the vehicle in this instance. Many have said on here that the modern vehicles allow bad drivers to get themselves into deeper trouble, and that is going to keep happening. But it’ll also happen to moderately experienced drivers who become overconfident in the car. I’m not blaming the car for either of those photographed cases - they’re both obv
  12. That’s purdy! Oiling the wood rather than varnishing or ployeurathane coating it would be more resilient to scratches. I presume you fitted big washers for the fixings for the cargo track to make sure the nuts don’t pull through the board. It’s a great looking job.
  13. It is possible that the drop was invisible from the driver’s seat, the two surfaces blending and looking like one. It’s worth walking the track if you aren’t familiar with it to be sure hidden obstacles don’t bite you hard, especially if deviating from the clearly established path.
  14. I’d get someone to pump the pedal hard while you check for ballooning of the flexible hoses. The servo should hold vacuum for a fair while after shutting off the engine, and allow a few pedal operations before becoming ineffective. If you need the engine running for it to work at all, then there is a leak. “Known good ones” sometimes let you down.
  15. A great demonstration of how electronics are replacing driver judgement and skill...
  16. I suspect the blue knob is for a Power Take Off (PTO) unit, to drive a hydraulic pump or a mechanical shaft to the back of the vehicle for powered machinery. They often had in/out levers. Overdrives typically have throw levers like gear sticks. That said, I’m not familiar with Toro overdrives, and they being Spanish could well be common on Santanas.
  17. Well done! You definitely need a bigger exhaust with straight through silencer boxes, not the 2.25 system. That will cause back pressure and significant performance and temperature problems and perhaps the misfiring, but the latter is more likely due to having been stood idle a long time.
  18. Why don’t you have a word with Kingsley and other RRC refurbishers? They do some amazing full rebuilds, but at a price. Maybe a compromise of a well tidied up but not fully rebuilt and resto-modded RRC would work, with all the mechanicals overhauled, the underside treated but not stripped and galvanised, no major costs of modifications, and a good clean and replacement of worn internal trim so it is like new where it matters without the full strip down? I imagine the 3.5t limit is the unpowered trailer brake restriction, which would apply to any other, bigger vehicle too.
  19. If you sign on the line of the policy, they can apply that detail. Then you have agreed to voiding the warranty. So, cheaper insurance for LR, a voided warranty, and all because the customer agreed to it. Underhand, yes, but not illegal or deceptive, so it’s a double win for LR. It’s a disgraceful tactic, though. Still, it just goes to reinforce what some of us are saying about the company. I wonder if other premium brands do the same; I suspect there is a mixed bag.
  20. You won’t know if it’s ok unless you lift the head to check for cracked pistons and head. 7k is possible but very unlikely. I’d be suspicious.
  21. Nige would likely know - he does updated bearings with aluminium sleeves.
  22. It’s monstrous, but worse, totally illegal. I hope it gets picked up by the authorities before som mug parts with a lot of money.
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