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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. Snagger

    Gear stick rattle

    Ok, so we all know the SIII, and most incarnations of SII, have a rubber o-ring in the groove of the ball at the bottom end to stop the stgeel ball rattling against the walls of the steel "cups" on the end of each selector rod. The problem is that these o-rings, being plain neoprene rubber, tend to wear out quickly, and the use of grease or oil to reduce the abrasion of selecting gears causes the rubber to perish. I have been trying to find alternatives. Polyurethane seems to be out because they don't make o-rings of that size as a standard - they'd need to be custom made, which would make them very expensive. PTFE has been suggested to me by a seal retailer, and they're getting back to me with a price for a minimum size order. Now, PTFE would have great longevity, but will it be to hard to prevent the stick from rattling? Apparently, it has some give in o-ring applications, but is much harder than rubber. Has anyone tried this successfully, or would anyone be interested in trying it if I have to make a small bulk order?
  2. Snagger

    Webasto fuel burning heater

    Photos and explanations of the work would be useful for others, Stussy.
  3. Snagger

    Boot replacement advice please

    The important thing is to cut the rot out completely, as it'll return like a cancer if you don't. Replacing the lost metal isn't as critical as it appears - this is not a major structural area, so a decent overlap with panel bond or PU adhesive will give a strong joint, as long as the surfaces are scrupulously clean before bonding. This means that if you can't weld, all is not lost. Sills and other structural areas do need good quality welding, though. YRM Metal Solutions are a good source of the panels, and Tiger Seal is a PU adhesive I have used in semi-structural areas with excellent results - PU adhesive is used for some structural bods on combat aircraft, so it's well up to non-structural and light structural applications on cars (just not on major structures and anything involving seat and belt mountings).
  4. Snagger

    RRC Rear Prop Fitting

    I agree - there is no way you should have had problems getting the length of the prop in after fitting the back end. You must have a faulty prop with limited slip joint travel. It could be compacted, dried grease at the bottom of the tube, but it's not going to do your transmission or diff any favours each time it bottoms out. Best take it off again, mark the slip joint alignment and then dismantle it to clear out any muck and inspect it.
  5. What is wrong with your old axle? If you have easy access to a RRC axle, you may be able to use it as a parts donor - it's likely that a similar age RR axle will use the same suspension components, so all that would differ is the CV joints, drive flanges and brakes.
  6. Snagger

    200Tdi Overheating when raining

    CRWoody's suggestion of a slipping belt is a very good one, but I agree that it's almost certainly a dash earth issue - the switches are on the earth side of the circuits, so if their combined earth is bad, they will try to earth through any other circuit they can. This happens frequently on Series vehicles, where the dash lighting causes the gauges to over-read. It seems that many gauges casings are not completely isolated from their inner workings and that their accuracy is easily affected by the grounding of their cases, which is shared with other dash items like switches.
  7. Snagger

    Britpart - The good and the bad

    BAD Series brake/clutch cylinders porous, rough machining and full of swarf. Series brake shoes with mixed linings - positively dangerous. Brake hoses with weak crimps - dangerous. Prop UJs and steering ball joints wear fast. Series steering relays have a reputation for shearing. Seals (any assembly on any vehicle) - an oxymoron. Bearings - usually unbranded rubbish with outer races shaped like a 50p coin and square rollers. Indicator stalk switch - poor contacts that melt the plastic mounting, and one was 1/2" smaller diameter on the bracket (probably for a Mini). Lights - melt their plastic earth contact mounting. Halfshafts - snap like twigs. Speedo cables - the drive gear end is not correctly profiles, stripping the square section hole of the drive gear, and the cable is the wrong length relative to the other sheath. Engine/transmission mounts - wrong grade of rubber, far too hard and transmit excessive vibration. Gear stick/hand brake lever gaiters - too thin and poor quality rubber; tear easily. Door/tailgate seals - too thick/hard, so doors won't close properly. SIII/Defender door hinges - more play new than the worn out, rusty old hinges. Exhaust - don't know how they get steel to rust so quickly. GOOD Alternators. 300Tdi timing belt kit (all Dayco) Clutch plates (Valeo or Borg&Beck) CV joints (lasted better than Genuine Parts for a fraction of the price)
  8. Snagger

    Best engine

    I don't know if it's true, but I heard claims that the 12J has more torque at low rpm than the Tdi as you don't get the breathing restrictions of an idle turbocharger and the compression ratio of a Tdi is less (19:1 as opposed to 23:1 if I recall the correct figures). It sounds plausible, though the direct injection and higher injection pressures may offset those factors.
  9. Snagger

    Bolt-on LR portals

    Using just two gears in the portal units is going to reverse the drive. They include new C&P gears with reverse helix, so that tallies up, and I can see how you can invert a Rover diff (after changing the pan), but will this work in a Salisbury axle? Genuine question, not rhetorical - i don't know if the diff housing will allow for the carrier to be fitted the opposite way around, but I have doubts. Their standard 5:1 total ratio sounds reasonable enough since oversize tyres are almost certain to be fitted. I still think they ought to give a range of diff ratio options, though, perhaps with a recommended ratio to tyre size table.
  10. Snagger

    Intercoolers and other bits

    If you reduce the pressure of the air, you'll also reduce temperature (adiabatic cooling). So, if the position of the intercooler is subject to an air pressure drop when driving, then you would see a corresponding drop in local temperature, and so the air inside the intercooler would also be further cooled. I wouldn't expect that to be significant in a Land Rover engine bay, but the heat dissipating from the rad and engine while the vehicle is stationary would surround the intercooler, so the lowest temperature while driving is probably the ambient temperature, and the slightly warmer temperature sensed while static is the result of your engine. There is one thing that would allow cooling below ambient, but it's not the answer to the experiment done and isn't going to be terribly effective in a Land Rover, and that's latent heat. The evaporation of a fluid on the outside of a heat exchanger could theoretically drop the temperature below that of the surroundings. That's what sweating does, and works in temperatures well above the human body's 37.something degrees. But that's rather hypothetical unless you fit a system to spray a readily evaporating fluid as a fine mist to the outside of the heat exchanger.
  11. Snagger

    Intercoolers and other bits

    Also no. "Wind chill" brings the temperature of a mass towards ambient, so a cold mass would be warmed if the ambient temperature is greater - think of ice cream melting - so it's a misnoma. The airflow is just stripping away any insulative layer of warmed/cooled air around the body in question. If you have no airflow around the body, the surrounding air will start to match the temperature of the body and thermal transfer will reduce. That's why we have fans on radiators.
  12. Snagger

    Intercoolers and other bits

  13. Snagger

    RRC Rear Prop Fitting

    Have you tried fitting the rear end of the prop first and then fitting the gear box end? That should allow you all the alignment movement you need, and you'll have enough leverage on the prop to align the front afterwards.
  14. Snagger

    Brake Shuttle valve

    If using a PDWA unit, you wouldn't want to split left and right until after the unit - it can only deal with two circuits. Once deleted, the master cylinder became the easy point to split the front system left and right. A Tee could have been used nearer the front axle, I suppose, much like the rear or on the front of Series vehicles, but I'd be guessing at why it wasn't.
  15. Snagger

    Armchair diagnosis: snapcrankeritis

    I think you need to get the main bearings in-line honed.
  16. Snagger

    Intercoolers and other bits

    There won't be such a linear relationship between ambient temperature and compressor output temperature - higher ambient will lead to higher compressor outlet temperature, but not by the same value. There is likely a complex equation for the relationship, but I don't know it. What the intercooler achieves is going to depend on several variables, including internal and external flow rates, temperature differentials and actual temperatures. It's certainly not going to give a flat rate of cooling. To get a useful comparison of the benefits of intercooler size, we'd need comparable engines and similar conditions (temperature, air density, boost from the compressor and engine rpm).
  17. Snagger

    Brake Shuttle valve

    If it's like those on SIIIs, it doesn't shut off the leaking side - the PDWA unit on SIIIs is purely a warning system, made redundant by the far more effective level sensing caps of later vehicles. If that is true of the Defender unit, then you'd be better off bypassing it - they tend to seize in place anyway and make bleeding far more of a chore.
  18. Snagger

    Intercoolers and other bits

    The intercooler can only bring outlet temperature at best down close to external temperature , so if the first test was conducted during the warm part of the day and the second test when much cooler, the comparison is invalid.
  19. Snagger

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    I know, but manual boxes are typically favoured for working vehicles in this category outside of the US.
  20. Snagger

    Intercoolers and other bits

    It'd be really interesting to have standard intercooler figures to compare.
  21. Snagger

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Stitched leather encasing the dash as well as the seats, and you mention utilitarian? This, and the automatic gearbox, show this will be no working vehicle. But we know that already from the mooted price tag, suspension, ground clearance and ridiculous profile alloy wheels on test mules. It's a posers car through and through. Edited to add that the legal row could very likely be deliberate to gain attention, much like some actors giving supposed spoilers and being "fired" for doing so - Mark Ruffalo is a good example, where it's all planned by the studios. So much in modern media is false or manipulated now that it's hard to know what to believe, and difficult to believe certain sources at all anymore.
  22. Snagger

    Air fittings on T-Max compressor

    I have a T-Max and it too had the awful screw-on fitting. I recently bough a lance type fitting (like on petrol station air pumps) and a suitable barb adaptor to fit into the rubber hose that the screw-in valve is attached to. It works perfectly and cost me just over $10 to get the parts at a US tools shop, so it isn't expensive.
  23. Snagger

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    90 Station Wagon XS. I can't remember the V5 details, but it cost twice the annual charge of my Tdi RRC at the same time.
  24. Snagger

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    No. I had a 2009 TDCI 90 with 500pa tax, so thanks for disputing my personal experience so definitively. The 2.2 were cheaper, and maybe late 2.4s. I was under the impression that TD5 Discoverys had dual mass flywheel, but that Defenders had conventional clutches, bit stand to be corrected. Certainly not a system reputed for reliability, whichever vehicle had it, though.
  25. Snagger

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    Tdcis have dual mass flywheels and are costly to fix when (not if) they go wrong. The TD5 conventional clutch and flywheel are more reliable. The Tdci is a pain on gears - the 6-speed box is too low in 1st, a bit high in 2nd for most jobs, but top gear still seems too low just like 5th on the TD5. However, you can't fit an overdrive to the Tdci, while you can the TD5. The TD5 heater is typically weak, but usually down to a bad thermostat. Get that working correctly and ensure the heater matrix is clear on water and air sides and it's good enough. The Tdci heater is ridiculously over-powerful for most climates and on the lowest temp setting above fully-cold, it's still too hot even in cold winters, so you have to keep turning it off entirely. But for UK users, possibly the biggest problem with the 2.4 (but not 2.2) Tdci is road tax - they're all rated as commercial, and so are double the normal rate. I believe that it was a bit of a lottery on TD5s, not as simple as having station wagons all as private cars, but that many are private and so much cheaper to tax.

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