Defender TD5 - Not starting - All electrics gone (nearly)

[JoeyT]

Hi all

My 1999 TD5 was running fine for the last 6 months that I've had it. Then it just cuts out whilst driving along. That's engine cuts out, all dashboard lights go out and all other electrical things. Nightmare.

A few minutes later it restarts. Then it does the same a bit further down the road and then restarts again after a few mins.

Then it's fine for a week. And now it's cut out again and won't restart. 

 

So, I've had a bit of a look at it and this the current situation:

These things are ok

Hazards come on ok.

Radio comes on (but then goes off if I try to switch on the main lights)

Interior lights work

Battery is charged and connectors on securely.

Immobiliser light flashes. But goes off when it cuts out.

Full beam works strangely

 

These are not ok

No lights come on the dashboard. (Except the full beam and the hazard.)

Wipers don't work

Lights and indicators don't work (except when hazards)

It obviously won't turn over because no electrics. No coil light etc.

 

My guesses as to the issues are:

Bad earth somewhere

Faulty ignition

Faulty immobiliser

Main beam light switch stalk faulty

There are extra front spots (I assume) wired in to the full beam. They don't work but I wonder if they are tripping things.

 

Any thoughts or help please?

Thanks, Joe

 

[pete3000]

Could be a combination of things, given the intermittent nature though i'd probably start with a visual in the fuseboxes. Most of the items you describe as working above are on the permanent live circuits (brown or purple), i.e clock, hazards, interior lights (horn?) some of the radio? Not sure how the immobiliser works on the td5 and how tolerant it is of pulling fuses or low volts so no advice here.... however.......

Do any of the fuses look melted or as if they are corroded? It sounds as if anything drawing any current causes the circuits to drop in voltage. You could elimate a bad earth by clipping a jump lead from negative battery terminal to the alternator mounting bolt or engine lifting eye.

After that you need to get a multimeter and start measuing for differences in voltage drops when things are trying to draw current vs not.

[Mo Murphy]

Joey,

I'd be looking at the big fuses in the aux fuse box (in the ECU box under the drivers seat IIRC). The supply for all your items that don't work come from here. Check for corrosion and clean fuse holders.

Download the TD5 wiring diagrams to help you work out what's what, otherwise you're just flailing around in the dark, guessing.

HTH

Mo

[JoeyT]

Thank you @pete3000

Yes the horn also works.

All the fuses and wiring is in excellent condition as is the rest of the vehicle. No corrosion or melting.

I'll try the jump lead on the negative terminal.

After that I may end up getting an electrician, unless anyone has any better ideas.

Thank you

[JoeyT]

Thank you @Mo Murphy Useful info. I'll check there too

[Mo Murphy]

Since they are ignition switched you should also check the electrical part of the ignition switch under the steering column cover. I have read of several of these failing, either wearing, sparking and then melting the plastic (like the headlamp switch does) or the the back of the switch falling off.

Mo

[JoeyT]

Update

After watching a YouTube video (Ozzie driving around the Outback) explaining how the ignitions can be a common issue, I took the dashboard off and just pulled the back end of the ignition towards the front. It then started no problem and I’ve driven it around and seems fine. Lights or anything else are not tripping it like they were before.

Problem now is, it’ll probably be a weak spot, either on the vehicle or in my mind, so I’m going to have to replace the ignition.

I knew it all along but at least now am totally convinced there isn’t anything serious wrong.

Thanks for all your help.

Cheers

Joe

[Mo Murphy]

Good news Joe 👍

Mo