pete3000

On my new YRM 3mm tub floor i used countersunk blind rivets, drill for 5mm and then a countersink bit, leaves it flush and neat. Pete

Depending on the model you've most likely lost the earth to the sender, causing the gauge to over read. although you shouldn't see anything at all when ignition is off as the green (and black) wires which power the gauge are on the ignition feed. The green/black trace then goes to the sender which is then shorted to earth when empty and rises in resistance when full to around 300 ohms.

There are some decent metric tap and die sets at Arceurotrade and the Presto metric ones off the bay. RDG otherwise for the imperial stuff. Worth getting the tapping drills to match. I bought a cheap aldi tap/die set and they wouldn't start a thread but were ok for cleaning. Pete

Get something like this for around a fiver, i've found mine useful especially with mixed threads (metric/imperial) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184332633337?epid=17039152137&hash=item2aeb14c4f9:g:7XsAAOSw32Ve2Jr2 Pete

T-wash, galv etch primer, then rustoleum 7300 satin black. The aerosol 7300 did a better adhesion job than the brush/roller application from the tin. The 7300 seems to be everything that Hammerite isn't these days. POR-15 is good for rough rusty bits? (not shiny new galv?) 🙂 Pete

re-tap and helicoil?

I'd guess at the wrong thread? the blanking plug for the 562748 sedimentor is listed as 517689 and the matching union nut for a series 2.25 is 517690. Can you compare the threads on a blanking port against your pipe fittings? could be 1/2" unf Pete

To avoid work for yourself later on make sure the fuel return pipe/plate is sealed as well as possible around the 6? fixing screws and cork gasket on top of the tank. I had issues with mine if i brimmed the tank and believe Western had with the holes for the screws not being blind holes. i.e the diesel wicks up the thread past the screws. There was a thread on here somewhere. edit found it: Pete

Yes, stops the bolts pushing back up when you are struggling to hold the tank and start the nuts whilst using your 3rd hand to align the bushes. 🙂

On my newer chassis build it sits here. On the 2.5NAD setup it was right next to the fuel sender pickup on the fuel tank. 300 tdi front fuel pipes were shortened to connect to the td5 sedimentor.

And a top tip to save aggro is the unf half nuts which secure the leaf spring bushes must be removed/wound off first. The unf bolts are threaded into the chassis drop brackets and the drop pivot bracket. Fun once you know.... Pete

Did a quick search and tracked the following down, https://www.nsncenter.com/FSC/2530?PageNumber=252 ctrl+f for the 64373808PH and 64373798PH part numbers allows you to google the NSN which returns https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=1668 or STC2796. So yes series based brakes. The bearings are easy enough as the timken 359S is stamped in.

If you can't recover the nut in one piece let me know i may still have the one off my old tank/sender. No promises though. From memory it's a coarser thread than the FIP nuts. NRC9770 or 603431. Pete

Why not fit a metal sender unit to your tank? then recover the nut from the broken piece in the photo and fit to sender. Add a new olive to the metal sender pipe and job done. PRC8463 is the early sender. Olive NRC9771? Pete

Is this an electronic 300tdi (EEGR) or an older manual type FIP? i.e with the extra EGR valve and control box and control wireson the FIP? Could be the EGR is clogged or has lead to the intake being clogged up. Aside from that have you also changed the fuel filter? If you can rig a fuel feed from the fuel filter housing into the engine from a clean bottle or can of fuel you may discover the diesel pipework back to the tank are in need of cleaning. The later ROW 300tdi had a plastic tank and ROW pickup which is difficult to get to without dropping the tank.