pete3000

my only tip is to try and get the pump either inside or well away from salt/spray, otherwise the terminals can rot out and the pump stops working. Ask me how i know.

Just a thought Cluaran, have you tried a decent amount of pre-heat from the plumbers torch right before migging on full power?, this might allow more sticking of the weld if that makes sense. Use a heat shield or plate with a hole in to avoid burning any delicate bits as much as you can. I used a rothenberger mapp torch to great effect when fabbing some trailer lower shock plates this year. The weld went on like butter, albeit it was downwards so appreciate the difficulty in welding upside down. Pete

Have you done anything regards the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets? or reusing the old ones. I got a set of these, primered and painted black. https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-bulkhead-to-chassis-brackets-per-pair-land-rover-defender/ With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/ Pete

second post he says "the wilds of the North West Highlands" 😮

This is the one i have in the LR, it does DC current and has clamp and multimeter probes, also it backlit for easy read. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNI-T-Current-Capacitance-Resistance-Measurement/dp/B07CNGJXFJ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=WBXKLZ8PN00K&dchild=1&keywords=uni-t+clamp+meter&qid=1609234467&sprefix=uni-t+clamp%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFXODdUSzVMVVNJVE8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NzA5ODMzRzJSUjlTQTBSSjlUJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MTI0OTExNThUM0VNVjIzSDJDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

have you tried turning the ends of the tube round?, some of the LED tubes only like being fed at one end. I have converted 4 or 5 battens and rewired the mains just to feed the end cap.i.e bypassing the starter and balast/caps. Never had any issues expect ordering the wrong length. Pete

Could be a combination of things, given the intermittent nature though i'd probably start with a visual in the fuseboxes. Most of the items you describe as working above are on the permanent live circuits (brown or purple), i.e clock, hazards, interior lights (horn?) some of the radio? Not sure how the immobiliser works on the td5 and how tolerant it is of pulling fuses or low volts so no advice here.... however....... Do any of the fuses look melted or as if they are corroded? It sounds as if anything drawing any current causes the circuits to drop in voltage. You could elimate a bad ear

A picture may help, but i'd probably end up drilling out gradually to size of bolt with some cobalt drills then hopefully being able to collapse the thread remains into the hole created by winding the tang in on itself and tapping? if that fails you may be left with the option of helicoiling. Depends a lot on the application. If it's load bearing/alignment safety critical a new bracket or component may be the only way forward.

also https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors?p=2

some of the parts are shared, e.g the wiper motor park switch is the same or similar to the classic mini. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wiper-Motor-Wiring-Loom-Plug-Park-Repair-Connection-Classic-Mini-GXE7708P-520161/283830020649?epid=1528397341&hash=item4215966a29:g:XLAAAOSwNkJaOvPQ or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-LWH102-Wiper-Motor-Park-Switch-Plug-Repair-kit-for-Land-Rover-Mini-Triumph/303744066861?epid=20040972837&hash=item46b88ea52d:g:A-UAAOSwG5xfoWWC Pete

Yes I'd swap to the PRC8463, stick a meter across it before fitting to confirm readings above, your gauge should be ok as the PRC7313, is the newer number of my PRC3107. Good luck. Pete

Sounds about right, the early military defenders didn't have the steering lock on the ignition key assembly. Otherwise you'd find it difficult to tell if you had left the steering lock on or if the non-power steering effort was just "normal". Pete

It's not too bad a job, if we are talking about the whole upper column assembly (tube). Most of it can be stripped down inside the cab. Don't forget you'll need 2 new shear bolts for the ignition barrel/lock once you've managed to get the old ones out. From memory the column has to be drawn into the engine bay and the cutout in the bulkhead is oval on 1 side to allow the bracket which fixes the colum to the upper dash to be drawn through. First up all the binnacle and steering surround needs to come off, then the steering wheel and switches unscrewed. Then its a case of unbolting the

Right, my sender is PRC8463, connections as follows Stud/bolt = earth/0v to chassis earth via short black wire, pushed on via bullet style female. White plastic terminal also stamped as T on sender face = gauge reading back to gauge PRC3107 terminal 1 Red plastic terminal also stamped as W on sender face (warning?) clipped ohm meter to stud, and white. Measured full position top of travel, 7-10 ohms, mid way ish 150 ohms and empty 350 ohms (linear scale?) with clip still on stud measured resistance to red W, open circuit till 25mm from end of dip tube the

STC1492 sender doesn't come back as anything for me, PRC8463 is the diesel part number?. The resistances measured don't sound right, have you got the ohms range on 200 ohms or e.g 20Mohms. I've just pulled my 300tdi setup out so i'll go and measure the old sender vs gauge positions.