pete3000

Cheers Ralph. Yes it does to some degree, but Kev50 never mentions if he got a part off the shelf to fit, i'm reluctant to fit the td5 platic neck filler setup as it looks carp (quality wise anyway) I'm not sold on the weight of the filler neck hanging off one plastic lug. That and the leaking issues seen on other forums mean i'm more inclined to hold on to my metal filler neck and vented cap arrangement and block the small breather on the tank off. As this looks impossible to get to once the body is back on.

Well the tank is bolted up, and electrical plug on order for the sender, had an accident on ebay and got a set of td5 clocks (speedo/fuel gauge/temp sender) etc with loom plugs. My other question is ...... Is there a setup to mate the TD5 plastic tank hoses to my fuel filler/breather from the 300tdi/2.5NAD. I'm wondering if WLH500070 will be right diameter and long enough? this would avoid all the faff of the plastic filler neck breather and associated brackets etc. Has anyone done this before? Pete

ESR3808 locking ring ESR3807 adaptor ring plastic (sits and locks onto tank) to allow above to seat. WHK100050 Tank WQB100440 ROW Pickup/Sender WGQ500020 Rubber sealing gasket for above WFS100530 110 tank strap (couldn't find) bought from YRM. WFI100100 tank cradle (needs M10 fittings 2x flanged nuts an 2x hex screws 35mm

I am at the beginning of a 110 td5 tank conversion on a 110 RC chassis, all is going well with fuel tank parts. List to follow....... (makes mental note to list parts so far) 🙂 However i have four new MXC5714 pad foam isolation washers, and cant find anywhere where they could or should be fitted which is a bit frustrating. The 2x bolt/nut front and rear cradle fixings are tempting places or the front of the tank to stop it rubbing on the axle x member. One place i've decided they shouldn't go is between the tank and the guard in the four corners as this would lift the tank upwards, and the filler neck is already there or there abouts on the rear tub bracket. Does anyone have any idea? TIA Pete

not all paints are the same though, the best finish i have found looks wise and to apply is the stuff from Marcus Glenn. The auction site stuff is a bit of a gamble. Pete

similar location to my 24v D1LC, mine sits just behind the O/S side locker in the wheel arch as i use the lockers for jerry cans. The only mod i made to mine was to put the pump inside the tub, as the contacts rotted off after 5 years, replacements aren't cheap. I used a fuel can off a honda generator. Do you have a linky for the chinesey version?.

Diesel? 2nd for glowplugs, also look for any air bubbles in the main fuel hose by the fuel filter, if there is then checkthe leakoff pipes.

The P38 ended up with a flat battery after relying on a solar charger and a low sun angle. Learning lesson from last time (don't just connect the c-tek charger with batt neg still on as it knacks the becm up disastrously) Give disconnected battery a charge for a couple of days. Then reconnect batt and go through the eka procedure. If your door switches don't produce the required indicator flashes then that will need sorting out first. Likely a set of newer mgf drivers door micro-switches grafting in. Once eka code ok lets you start engine, the remotes can be reprogrammed via drivers door, (needs the ign to have been on without the key code lockout messages etc). Pete

you have a short in your wiring, don't put high rating fuses into the wiring as the next problem will be the good portion of wiring melting out. if you put the correct rating fuse or bulb as roverdrive says, in. then leave the hazard switch disconnected and measure the voltage. If the drivers side works ok, i'd concentrate on the passenger side indcator wiring, can't remember if its green/red or green/white. take the bulbs out of the holders and measure the voltage to black or chassis. looking for my money would be on a trapped or chafed wire where the wheelarch has been disturbed or where the wiring runs out of the chassis/rear crossmember. To break it into manageable chunks you can unplug the rear crossmember/trailer wiring by the brake/clutch reservoir on the multiplug.

ps also post your location up, which may help.

so if you have measured the 12v purple feed to 0v and theres nothing, it's worth checking the fuse first then tracing the wire until you get 12v. the purple is permanent live (there with ign key out), also powered should be horn, clock, sidelights, interior lamp/s, trailer socket, and the hazard circuit. There should be an associated fuse for the clock, horn and interior light. Do your indicators light if you put 12v from eg brown wire such as cig lighter? Pete

take the aux belt off and spin the alternator feel/listen for dodgy bearings, otherwise could be a warning light wiring issue. What are the volt readings on/off charge? Pete

Was any welding done on your chassis? just wondering if so it could have fried the rf input to the radio (easily damaged by overvoltage). Have you tried another radio to make sure the reception is as bad with the same antenna? Pete

Well, final bit of info to tidy this thread up with a successful outcome :-) With the becm reprogrammed and synced to the engine ecu, all was ok but the rf fob wouldn't re-learn. Then things got a bit worse last week when the alarm kept sounding on opening the drivers door. This meant the engine was immobilised (door thought it was still locked). the key central locking also dissapeared. So as said earlier, doorswitches. Managed to get the door latch out today by doing the following. Remove door card and foam liner, (easier access with window glass up) at the bottom edge of door unclip the two cable clips from the door casing and seperate the latch connector. Flick the green plastic rod catch round to release the door handle pull rod. Unscrew the exterior door handle (1 torx screw) and remove the assembly, (the mushroom spring clip on the handle needs to be eased open carefully) Release the inside door handle in the same way (push the plastic retainer away) then pull the cylinder and cable away from handle assembly. The door lock/unlock plastic bit is screwed to push rod on normal type self tapping thread (took a while to work this out). Remove the three lock retaining plate torx screws then lock will come out at the upper door area with a push or scrape on the window regulator assembly. By visual and by metering the wires out the pink/purple/green are motor wires for the remote locking. The remainder are switches, Black is common on all three microswitches, blue and white are normally closed. Red should have been normally closed but was showing 16k ohms to 1M ohms. So i decided to scavenge the microswitches from the mgf drivers lock as the mgf housing/plug area is slightly different The switches tested out ok and same function as the RR (even same colours). The colours however are identical with one additional wire (grey) adds normally open to the red (not needed) The only adjustment/mod required was to break (plastic weld) the old switch stack out from the old RR one and measure the new switch location drilling 2.5mm location holes for the roll pins from the mgf connectors. (they sit around 2mm higher in the lock body than the RR). All back together the key was learnt and rf locking is back. :-)

red/yellow is fog light, appears both sides of the rear light cluster. green/white and green/red are the lhs and rhs indicators.