pete3000

There is no brown and green on Western's diagram, only at the ecu delay area D113 which drops to earth when motor is parked? or unparked? solid green should have 12v on when ign is on (for wipers to work), you can buzz the rest along the lines of the following. apply a fused 12v to green only, then get a multimeter and measure 12v on Light Green Blue when wash is pressed 12v on RLG on speed 1 12v on ULG on fast speed other 2 are on intermittent setting areaof switch. Pete

Noticed from your first pic, it looks like you have rock sliders fitted, just wondering if it would give more leeway to pull the bulkhead backwards/forward without them if they sit tight against the bottom of the bulkhead? Snagger, i used my doors as a cheap set square, logic being if the front of the door to bulkhead gap is equal/parallel at top and bottom hinge (and the waistline is at the correct level then the rear of the door base should be in line with the base of the tub and the waistline of the tub should be at correct level. i.e aiming for parallel ish gaps around 8mm. Hence why

Yes that's roughly what i've done although i don't have a roof at the moment only a soft top. Leave the bumper and the grill panel off till last also then you stand a chance at being able to get to the fiddly bolts at the front of the wings. A smidge of waxoyl on the stainless bolts i've been using on the non critical parts has stopped them snagging on the nuts, which gives you a second or third chance at swapping bits round or adjusting. Pete

Can't recomend these guys in Brum enough, i went to them in person for an LDV convoy box and a few years later for the defender Adwest box, both have been superb. I saw their setup and the range of stuff they do is impressive, proper old school engineering. No affiliation with them just a happy customer. They even burn't the drop arm off my convoy box while i waited as i had broken my puller trying. https://steering-racks.co.uk/ Pete

You could explain the brakes to the garage/MOT station and book an appointment with them, then if you find the brakes are not up to the job after setting off you could return home and cancel the MOT? If you are upfront with them about the brakes they'll probably thank you for not presenting it as found. Pete

I'm just rebuilding mine at the mo after a rebuild/chassis swap. I put the tub on first and then loosely bolted the seatbox up to aling the m6 nuts/bolts. Then moving to the bulkhead, the old chassis had 3x m10 washers inbetween the chassis and the bulkhead. I found when i tried the method below i had to take two of these out on each side. I dropped (screwed) the doors on and aimed for a 8mm gap (m8 bolt) first at the front top and bottom then round the rear of the door to line the bulkhead to the tub. I had to pull the bulkhead backwards in line with ratchet straps around 10-15mm to get

oe rubber bushes are good, but a absolute PITA to remove, that's why i'm a convert. The superpro went in easy and i know if i have to change them they will come out easy enough. I think the worst set of oe bushes to remove on my 110 were the rear A frame bushes which were triple sleeved. Not to mention the mess the rubber makes of everything you use on them. Pete P.S in you picture above they all have an outer sleeve that i can remember, they either need a press to remove in one or a deft hand with a hacksaw to cut two very close parallel cuts so you can use a chisel to tear a thin s

My 110 300tdi i've always been happy with for last 14 years, i've got standard size wheels and a 1.410? transfer box. I stick to 65mph (on speedo) so most likely 60mph. Any more becomes a bit lively. It averages 22-25 mpg and is mechanically simple. I've kept my eye on the temp gauge and regularly serviced the fluid and cam belt. I tow a sankey trailer at 55-60 and it has plenty of power and only ever considered a 3.9 v8 megasquirt if diesel is ever discontinued. The td5 could be a consideration except the earliest versions. Other choices a 2.8 TGV or isuzu? I wouldn't want to stick

I took my wheels off, tried to manhandle the axles, gave up and put the wheels back on. Then found you can roll them around turn them over to paint and weld where necessary. Add an axle stand under the diff nose then chock the wheels and you're all set.

I bought the paddocks bolt set (front and back) they are fine. Don't bother with the bush kits though.I bought the superpro bushes and have to say they were a breath of fresh air to fit. If they need to be changed then only the vice needs to be used to press them out. Pete

I applied the T-wash with a hand spray bottle, which allows a good coverage without wasting it. 2.5 litres did the lot on my 110, including all the YRM bits. Couple of essential bits of PPE are goggles and nitrile gloves. T-wash is phosporic acid an irritant, and will damage your eyes. after the metal darkens and almost drys off i rinsed with a hosepipe. A few days later painted with galv primer grey then week later 2 coats (2 litres) of rustoleum 7300 satin black rollered on. For the hard to reach bits, some aerosol rustoleum. Pete

I've just done my 110 RC wiring loom pull through, i used Aldi galv fencing wire with a loop bent at the ends, wrap all the loose wire ends with PVC to the draw wire make a smooth profile, i started at the front and pulled to the back. Just be careful as you go over the rear axle shock mounts as the loom wont pass under the stiffening tubes, you have to go over the bottom two. I ended up passing a short length of hooked galv wire back down the chassis to draw the loop over the shock mount tubes as it went under the first time. as someone above says it the loom sticks if this is the case.

Note the 2 bolt holes 1 is slotted for alignment? new brackets below which fit from the rear pocket of the holes above, made from some 12mm x 2mm strip 65mm long, screws are M6 and should be 15mm long. Some length needs trimming off, as these are all I had in stainless. Hole centres are 42.5mm Old bracket for reference, other one is rotted out. 27mm wide and 92mm long hole centres are 42.5mm as above M6 nut welded onto rear...Bigger holes are 9mm The bracket linked above would work unless like me you have made your own. HTH

I've got mine apart at the moment, will try to take a photo and some dimensions.

i'm looking into the hawkeye vs lynx also. I made enquiries about the "family" capability of the lynx, it covers (as far as i can tell from asking) range rover from classic to L322 but not sport or evoque. The additional cable set at £150 is required for some P38 funcionality. Where as the hawkeye sems to have a cable for every function? The lynx only covers updates for 12 months unless you buy the support yearly. But not a massive issue as long as the app keeps working without being updated? At the moment the hawkeye is around £220 and the lynx around £320. Is the hawkeye vin locked