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Had exactly the same sort of hole in daughters RR, I bought two sill panels inners and outers from Paddocks, they extend well under the seat to a join about halfway under the seat. Earlier seats and bases unbolt I believe, I had to carefully cut away the seat base to slide the panel under, then stitch weld it to the propshaft tunnel panel and re weld the seat base in. It was an interesting job when you also have to cut away and refix the B post. If yours are like mine further investigation with a pointed implement may well find the inner sill has gone as well.

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Agreed. I did one side of mine last year, it wasn't as bad as the photo, but when I cut the outer sill out I found the inner was well tired. To be honest once you've got the outer sill away, the inner sill is a breeze.

I got both panels from Paddocks, the outer sill extended from the drivers footwell to the bottom of the rear seat box, and inwards to where it met the tranny tunnel. On later cars it's spot welded to the tranny tunnel, and to the inner sill. Earlier cars it's bolted in.

Be prepared to be making up odd bits of footwell and rear floor, and paying some attention to the bottom of the door pillars. I had to replace the bottom of the A pillar, and patch the B pillar, as well as repair the drivers footwell.

Then you start prodding at the rear wheel arches..... Don't be surprised to find the seat belt mount comes off in your hand, or a finger goes through the outer wheel arch at the top. The outer is available as a panel, as is the inner, but I was able to cut out the rot in the inner panel and put in a repair. There's a good thread on this board about that task.

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I've just done this job. I used 100mm X 60mm X 5mm box section for the sill and made up floor plates from 18g sheet.

Box section cost £30 for 2 X 1.5M, 18g sheet was approx £8 for a 3' x2' sheet, could be cheaper if you buy a bigger sheet.

One obvious precaution, remove the ECU, put it in a poly bag and put it somewhere safe before you do anything in the seat/floor/sill area. Also wrap and tape the ECU plug in a poly bag to keep all that rust/grinding dust out of it.

If the sill's that bad expect rear wheel arches/inner wings/seat belt mounts to be the same, also the rear floor and probably the rear crossmember.

Mine all started as a quick prod with a screwdriver, pre-MoT, due Nov 1 06, which has escalated into a major restoration.

If I hadn't got so far into the job I'd have scrapped it by now. Waiting for rear crossmember to arrive via ANC as I type.

Good luck,


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A word of caution regarding replacing the sills with box section. You are significantly altering the structure of the bodyshell from original, that could feasibly land you in trouble with regard to things like type approval, construction and use and your insurance company. Make sure you inform them if you do this, they will use any excuse to avoid paying out in the event of a claim, un-declared modifications is a favourite!

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Hmmm, Interesting comment about type approval / insurance etc. if using box section for sills.

By this thinking the new rear cross member which arrived today from Paddocks will also be a problem as it's made from much heavier gauge steel than the original. Similarly, replacing the rust-prone steel fuel pipe with plastic or whatever will cause concern too.

The LR mags and forums contain hundreds of road licensed vehicles with home-brewed mods. Are these all likely to be in trouble with type approvel, insurers etc.?

Bob :unsure:

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Potentially yes. Some countries/states have outright banned any and all modifications from manufacturers design. Adaptions for handicapped drivers go through a hell of an approval process.

I studied automotive engineering for a time back in the day, it was then that this whole issue was poinited out to me by a lecturer. We were chatting about Land Rovers and how easy they were to modify....

Something like a pattern cross member being made from heavier gauge steel, probably never be noticed, as shape and appearance wise, it's the same, go make sills out of box section rather than pressings, that sticks out more. Moreover, how it behaves under load and more critically in failure will be different to the original design, which is really where the problems lie. Stronger is not always better! Let's hypothesise (spelling?!), suppose you are involved in a collision serious enough to warrant mechanical inspection of the vehicle, it could be suggested that the outcome would have been different if the structure had not been so modified. I'm thinking along the worst case scenario lines here.

Generally it's structural stuff I'd be concerned about, chassis, suspension, steering etc. Although, thinking about your fuel line comment, think about it this way. It may have been steel originally to cope with high fuel pressure, would the plastic replacement handle the same pressure? In that example I don't know, nor am I sufficiently qualified and knowledgeable to know, so I'd err on the side of caution and replace like with like.

I wonder, could you be thinking that the new cross member is heavier than the original, because the original is so thinned by corrosion? :lol: I know I was quite surprised tp see how thick the inner sill is supposed to be :D

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Potentially yes. Some countries/states have outright banned any and all modifications from manufacturers design. Adaptions for handicapped drivers go through a hell of an approval process.

Yes, bit like Norway. Try and put on larger tyres (greater than a 5% increase) and if you get stopped

you get given a 2 week producer to show your vehicle according to the V5 (equivalent) where all info relating

to that type of stuff is printed on it.

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