sixpot Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehetabel Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Ok Luke, we will make this the '73 6cyl CSW thread I just got the truck back on the road with a "brand new" engine I found a crate motor that the Australian military had rebuilt and packaged up for "future use" and then sold off as surplus. In my ownership the old engine had been hydrolocked and spun a rod bearing and many "experts" say these engines are "done" at 50 -60k [currently showing 47k with at least one year without an odometer B) ]. Since I currently lack a garage or even a personal section of sidewalk I had the installation done by a "pro". Runs great and somewhat quieter with a viscous fan instead of the outboard engine prop cheers John & Mehetabel [now with "new" '78 engine] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landi41 Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Ok Luke, we will make this the '73 6cyl CSW thread I just got the truck back on the road with a "brand new" engine I found a crate motor that the Australian military had rebuilt and packaged up for "future use" and then sold off as surplus. In my ownership the old engine had been hydrolocked and spun a rod bearing and many "experts" say these engines are "done" at 50 -60k [currently showing 47k with at least one year without an odometer B) ]. Since I currently lack a garage or even a personal section of sidewalk I had the installation done by a "pro". Runs great and somewhat quieter with a viscous fan instead of the outboard engine prop cheers John & Mehetabel [now with "new" '78 engine] Congratulations on the new "Power Plant" Was that the one on LRX.......? Considered it myself but the shipping to the East Coast would have been prohibitive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehetabel Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Congratulations on the new "Power Plant"Was that the one on LRX.......? Considered it myself but the shipping to the East Coast would have been prohibitive It is the one that was on there all summer. Curiosuly enough once I decided to buy it two other 6 cyl drivetrains showed up on there [one was being swapped for a diesel engine and box, the other was out] both cheaper but also of more questionable wear/ age/ etc. The shipping from Seattle to Denver ended up being almost $500 . While we are on the subject It is doing a stange thing now: The oil pressure is fine on startup and while the engine is cold but once the oil is warm I start to get low oil pressure [the volumn if anything is high]. Does the collective have any ideas? [if I do not find an answer soon I will bumb the question to the international forum] cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landi41 Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 It is the one that was on there all summer. The oil pressure is fine on startup and while the engine is cold but once the oil is warm I start to get low oil pressure [the volumn if anything is high]. Does the collective have any ideas? [if I do not find an answer soon I will bumb the question to the international forum] cheers John John as you probably know the 6 cylinders seem to run a lower pressure than the 4 cyls..... I don't know about the Australian one but it must be similar to the NADA one except for the high compression head i would think, don't they call this the Euro 6 in the UK ? Oil pressure is a funny thing, could be as simple as the gauge not reading correctly, for instance i don't trust the electrics.... the other thing i find is the sixes don't like multi grade oil, i'd use the single highest grade ie: viscosity i could consistant with ambient temperature. You don't mention numbers but my old 6 has appx 55 psi on start up and gradually settles down to 30 psi, falling to as low as 25 psi......... I presume the engine has a new oil filter and the sump screen is clean................ The oil pressure relief valve is easy to access on the 6 cyl, it's located low down on the side of the block under the manifold, sort of an acorn nut beneath which lurks a spring and ball.... now this is all "un-official" but you could remove the spring and give it a bit of a streaching, might boost the pressure a bit Let us know how you get on.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehetabel Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 John as you probably know the 6 cylinders seem to run a lower pressure than the 4 cyls.....I don't know about the Australian one but it must be similar to the NADA one except for the high compression head i would think, don't they call this the Euro 6 in the UK ? Oil pressure is a funny thing, could be as simple as the gauge not reading correctly, for instance i don't trust the electrics.... the other thing i find is the sixes don't like multi grade oil, i'd use the single highest grade ie: viscosity i could consistant with ambient temperature. You don't mention numbers but my old 6 has appx 55 psi on start up and gradually settles down to 30 psi, falling to as low as 25 psi......... I presume the engine has a new oil filter and the sump screen is clean................ The oil pressure relief valve is easy to access on the 6 cyl, it's located low down on the side of the block under the manifold, sort of an acorn nut beneath which lurks a spring and ball.... now this is all "un-official" but you could remove the spring and give it a bit of a streaching, might boost the pressure a bit Let us know how you get on.............. Yes I am aware of the "normal" pressure vagaries of the 6 [Euro 6 for the purist] but that typically shows at low rpms [settling down and the warning light coming on at idle]. This case appears at high rpm and goes away when the engine settles to idle. It is almost as if the oil is too thin when warm and the engine cant develop the pressure. Where do you find single grade oils? I am also giving serious thought to going with synthetic after the breakin [stickier so less likely for the bearings to "dry out" in an application with marginal delivery ] I might try the pressure adjustment. cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landi41 Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Yes I am aware of the "normal" pressure vagaries of the 6 [Euro 6 for the purist] but that typically shows at low rpms [settling down and the warning light coming on at idle]. This case appears at high rpm and goes away when the engine settles to idle. It is almost as if the oil is too thin when warm and the engine cant develop the pressure. Where do you find single grade oils? I am also giving serious thought to going with synthetic after the breakin [stickier so less likely for the bearings to "dry out" in an application with marginal delivery ] I might try the pressure adjustment. cheers John Hi John; Yes this is all a bit strange.....you would normally expect higher pressure with higher revs........... some things come to mind: the engine is running hotter than normal and thinning the oil the oil pump gear clearences should be checked, it may not have been re-newed the pick up screen on these engines almost touches the bottom of the oil pan, can it be obstructed? and back to the oil pressure relief spring......... is it letting off too soon? and again, how about the accuracy of the guage? single grade oils are getting harder to find, Canadian Tire have them here in Canada...........but airports are a good place to look....Fixed base operators, the guys who service light aircraft, typically have single grade motor oils available. Aeroshell 100 with an SAE 50 single grade rating is one of the most popular oils sold, not to Pilots but to Harley Davidson riders............ I have used it in my old air cooled BMW bike and in my NADA 6 I'm sure they would have lighter oils such as SAE 20, and SAE 30........... Personally i wouldn't use synthetic, seems thin as water and the ratings are wide eg: 5-40 and i think Mobil offer a 0-40 or something like that............ maybe it's just fine for the newer breed of engines with really close tolerences but in an old design, not for me, also, and maybe this is an automotive urban myth, i hear it leaks past old type engine oil seals with ease....... All of the above are just personal ideas of where to find the source of low oil pressure........... Hope some of these ideas are usefull............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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