Stan0008 Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 Has anyone got one of scrap irons double carden props fitted and more to the point what do you think of them? As I am on my second prop in as many months, the cause is the rubber boot/gaiter that is inside the double carden joint itself is 'tearing' after less than 200 road miles on both occassions. The vehicle is a 1996 90 factory fitted 300tdi/Lt230 with a 2.5 inch lift cranked arms on the rear but the BIG PROBS started when the castor corrected arms went on the front, a wide angle yoke prop was first tried, but the vibes weren't just bad they made the vehicle undrivable. The DC prop cured the vibes at the front ( The vibes at the back are another story for another day!) but the rubber boot/gaiter inside the joint just isn't lasting any distance at all. The prop angles at the front are 21 Deg out of the transfer box running into the front diff at 6 deg. As a warning to all, think very carefully before fitting any castor corrected front arms as having spoken to all the 'big names' in the business no one seems to have any solution/intrest or, more to the point the ability to source the correct type of DC joint in the UK. But if anyone has any experience of the scrap iron DC prop I would be interested to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Cranking the radius arms to correct castor is not the best approach as this will rotate the diff pinion down and can lead to driveshaft problems. Rather, use cranked radius arms only to reduce the deflection of the radius arm bush at the chassis mount and to correct the angle of the diff pinion. Then use castor corrected swivel ball housing to correct the castor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Stan, send it back and say you want a refund (you are well within your rights). Then go and buy a DII (double cardon) front propshaft and have a word with Jim Marsden at Gigglepin 4x4. He'll convert the UJs to greasable ones (major flaw on the factory prop). Tony Cordell (aka White 90) had the same problem a few months ago and he's been very happy with his modified DII prop. Gigglepin 4x4's number is 01732 463 600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 here you go Stan Pm me if you want the boring story of what I had to do before I changed the prop trying to cure vibrations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan0008 Posted November 2, 2005 Author Share Posted November 2, 2005 Thanks for the replies, I had considered the castor corrected swivels some time ago as John points out this would avoid a great deal of grief for myself and lot of others but they no longer seem to be available I last saw them at Billing on the Tomcat stand about 3 yrs ago but now seem to be discontinued as I think they were pricey around £140 each and I'm not sure they then sold that many, but I would gladly fit a dozen of the b*****s than be left with this prob! You can send yours off to www.rovertym.com and for $300 they will re-machine your swivels to whatever castor you spec, but I don't think there is currently a UK source. Thanks Will for the lead to Gigglepin I will certainly speak to them as I've spoken to everyone else why not! but the prob with the disco 11 prop is that It is generally being sold (certainly by Devon 4x4) as a cure for the TD5 vibes which I am told may have a slightly different length/angle compared to my 300tdi I am running on a prop length of 625mm with a distance from mid flange to mid flange face to face of 645mm also I feel the Disco carden joint will not allow enough of an angle I have a continous working angle of 21 deg and the longer the carden joint the worse this prob becomes as what I feel I need is a compact 30 deg joint with no silly rubber boots inside! There is also the question of the slip joint on the Disco item which will be around the usual 50mm?? mmm I could do with a bit longer. If you have a look at www.4xshaft.com this is the home of Tom Woods Custom shafts in Utah USA (Moab territory) they have just started doing land rover custom shafts a lot cheaper than the 'experts' here even taking into account the air freight/taxes. This guy would appear to be the planets guru on prop matters well worth a look. As for scrap Iron their prop WILL be going back in due course once I find an alternative. If your interested here is the formula to calculate the potential vibes Max oscillation speed=N(rpm) divided by cosine A ( the joint angle) eg taking my own prop assuming 2800rpm (exact rpm not important but same rpm for both calculations must be used) At the transfer box UJ 2800 divided by cos21=2999rpm At the diff UJ 2800 divided by cos 6=2815rpm Max wind up is therefore 2999-2815=183rpm and believe you me I felt every single one!!!! And no I didn't lift this of Toms site or anyone other one for that matter! Once again thanks for the replies and will keep you posted as to the outcome PS Great Pics White 90!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 I ran a double CV with no worries at all, 4" lift, 6 degree QT arms, 6000mile tour, no hassles Burgess of Bradford (01274) 721553 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Jez, £££=? Would they eventually sell the joint only so I can mate it to my driveshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Jez,£££=? Would they eventually sell the joint only so I can mate it to my driveshaft? I would have thought so - they are good lads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 hyperlink quicker I'm wondering...what if I fit a CV joint to my shaft...will it automatically self-align with the pinion and solve the vibes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 most any machine shop could do the swivel slotting. You'd need a mill and a rotary table. Of course, someone that already had a jig made up would be much quicker and reduce the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 G'day Rick! Where have you been? There's a nice link in the tech archive to an Aussie parts dealer, corrected swivels at 130 AUSD,not bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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