bazz Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Hi I cut of my old rusted outrigger from my chassis (lh side). The chassis is completely stripped down. Now i temporarilly fitted my new bulkhead in an attempt to line out my new outrigger and tack weld it into place. There seems to be much more room to play with as i anticipated. Even with all the bolts (loosely fitted) and struts in place (the ones from the chassis to the footwells) you can still move the whole bulkhead considerably (cm's). What would be the best trick to figure out what the correct position of the bulkhead is (and therefore the correct position of my outrigger) so i won't get in too much trouble refitting the remainder of my bodywork (safari) later on. thanks in advance Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Take measurements off the one you didn't cut off - they should be in the same position relative to the main chassis. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazz Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 Take measurements off the one you didn't cut off - they should be in the same position relative to the main chassis.Les. so fixing the riggers in the exact opposite position by measuring on the chassis would be a safer bet than aligning them with the use of the bulkhead. I frequently read stories about how bulkheads didn't fit anymore after replacing outriggers so i was thinking to be smart and prevent that by doing it this way. Only now i might end up with a fitting bulkhead, but only that. Probably the best way would be to do both, measure up but leave it attached to the bulkhead. I also better find a second person to help me do this because it is a pain to do it on your own. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VERY OLD DISCO Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Hi Bas, when I fitted my outrigger (S1) it was exactly in the same place as the original, but the replacement part was not the same, there was a lot of space to make up with washers. Check the new part is the same size as the old one, and match it to the one on the other side. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Id go along with Les, but just tack it into place until you get a chance to line the bulkhead up with the doors & tub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazz Posted December 22, 2007 Author Share Posted December 22, 2007 Id go along with Les, but just tack it into place until you get a chance to line the bulkhead up with the doors & tub Hi, thats actually a good idea, although i'm at this moment not so good a welder that i can make nice vertical welds. Up till now i just turned my chassis in whichever way nessecary to get horizontal surfaces. This will be slightly more difficult with the body in place. I only have an arc welder, a decent mig weler is too expensive for me at this moment. What do you all use for welding chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazz Posted December 22, 2007 Author Share Posted December 22, 2007 Hi Bas, when I fitted my outrigger (S1) it was exactly in the same place as the original, but the replacement part was not the same, there was a lot of space to make up with washers.Check the new part is the same size as the old one, and match it to the one on the other side. G I just ordered a replacement part and got a britpart one. This is deff. not the same size (much thicker, more roundish) although the hole seems to be in the correct position. Also there is loose metal inside that rattles quite annoyingly. Should i make a hole and remove that? or will the normal background noise be so much i won't be hearing it anyway. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VERY OLD DISCO Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 [i only have an arc welder, a decent mig weler is too expensive for me at this moment. What do you all use for welding chassis? I use arc or MIG welding. Arc welding is fine on a chassis, just get the right rods (1.6mm is what I use, from Machine Mart ) and make sure the metal is clean and shiny, it is not essentail but it makes the job so much easier. To weld vertically you go uphill (if you go down hill you will get a weld but no penetration) rod pointing up, (i.e. hand lower) and gently ziz zag in a figure of 8 (on its side ) pattern. For best results cut a slight "V" to allow good penetration and grind off flush. I never do this as I prefer to see where I have welded so I don't finish up welding over a weld so to speak. Good luck G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VERY OLD DISCO Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 I just ordered a replacement part and got a britpart one. This is deff. not the same size (much thicker, more roundish) although the hole seems to be in the correct position.Also there is loose metal inside that rattles quite annoyingly. Should i make a hole and remove that? or will the normal background noise be so much i won't be hearing it anyway. Bas Drill a small hole, pump some Waxoyl in and the loose bit will stick to the Waxoyl as it sets. Result, no noise! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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