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discover immobliser problem


nightrider

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could anyone help i have a p-reg 300tdi discovery which has been stood for a while i canot get the imobliser off the vehicle has had a new battery put on i have replaced the battery in the key fob . somebody told me there is a way to bypass the imobliser could anyone help :rolleyes::rolleyes:

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could anyone help i have a p-reg 300tdi discovery which has been stood for a while i canot get the imobliser off the vehicle has had a new battery put on i have replaced the battery in the key fob . somebody told me there is a way to bypass the imobliser could anyone help :rolleyes::rolleyes:
My immobiliser went last year (Disco 300tdi), I just phoned the local mobile auto sparky to take it off while I got it fixed.....heres the funny bit.....I forgot what he did, it only took him 2 minutes and one wire from under the dash near the steering wheel, he just taped a wire back and it fired up.

He said it was a fairly common problem on this model.

Regards Sime.

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Depends on a few things, but the standard land rover answer would be to use your EKA code, this is a code which you should have in your paperwork. If you don't have it LR will give it to you (might be a small fee) if you produce your V5 document.

The EKA code is used by turning the key in the drivers door a certain number of times one way then the other based on the numbers in the code (have a search on here for more details)

The biggest problem with the EKA is that most drivers door locks are worn on vehicles this age so it gets nearly impossible to input the code.

Is the vehicle a manual or an auto? If it's an Auto is it an EDC? If not an EDC have you already bypassed the Spider?

If it's not an EDC (fly-by-wire) model and you've not already bypassed the spider then that might be a good starting point.

Next, you should be able to run a wire from the battery positive to the stop solenoid on the back of the injection pump, this will bypass the immobiliser for that part. Give that a try if that fails I think you have to run a wire to the starter motor as well or short it with a screw driver

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Not sure how much this is going to help as it's based on an EDC/auto. However on mine when I had immobilser problems I checked the Haynes manual wiring diagrams and found that there are 3 Black with an Orange tracer (IIRC) wires that go into to the alarm unit, one is an earth used by the alarm however the other two control the starter relay and a fuel relay (I think). Any way I grounded both the control wires but left the 3rd wire connected to the alarm and my starting problems went away.

HTH

Pete.

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If it turns over on the key then the only thing left is the stop solenoid on the injection pump.

As a quick test first locate the stop solenoid (it's on the back of the fuel injection pump) it's the only thing there with one wire going to it, it's a little nut on the top holding the wire on with a ring terminal.

Run a wire from the battery positive and touch it against the nut, then get someone to start it, that will allow fuel through.

If that works then it proves the stop solenoid is what is stopping it. You then have a few choices in order to bypass the top solenoid. Option one, is just connect that wire up (downside is that it will keep running after you switch off - so you have to stall it or put a switch inline to cut the power. Option two is to run a wire from an accessory feed to the stop solenoid so that when the key is turned it engages the solenoid and when turned off it will cut the fuel. This can be the radio feed etc.

Final option is to remove the plunger from the solenoid, undo with a 24mm spanner and remove the spring and plunger, this will completely bypass it but you will have to stall it to stop the engine (might be worth doing this as a test if you don't get anywhere with the wire from battery)

I wouldn't do the final option as a bypass - but it might be worth a test as the solenoid could have failed so, if it works without the plunger and spring but doesn't work with the wire across to it, then you need a new solenoid for about £10

Hope that helps

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If it turns over on the key then the only thing left is the stop solenoid on the injection pump.

As a quick test first locate the stop solenoid (it's on the back of the fuel injection pump) it's the only thing there with one wire going to it, it's a little nut on the top holding the wire on with a ring terminal.

Run a wire from the battery positive and touch it against the nut, then get someone to start it, that will allow fuel through.

If that works then it proves the stop solenoid is what is stopping it. You then have a few choices in order to bypass the top solenoid. Option one, is just connect that wire up (downside is that it will keep running after you switch off - so you have to stall it or put a switch inline to cut the power. Option two is to run a wire from an accessory feed to the stop solenoid so that when the key is turned it engages the solenoid and when turned off it will cut the fuel. This can be the radio feed etc.

Final option is to remove the plunger from the solenoid, undo with a 24mm spanner and remove the spring and plunger, this will completely bypass it but you will have to stall it to stop the engine (might be worth doing this as a test if you don't get anywhere with the wire from battery)

I wouldn't do the final option as a bypass - but it might be worth a test as the solenoid could have failed so, if it works without the plunger and spring but doesn't work with the wire across to it, then you need a new solenoid for about £10

Hope that helps

Good advice but worth being aware that some injection pumps also have an immobilser control built into them and it is therfore not quite as straight forward.

Pete.

And no I don't have any information about the immobiliser control. sorry.

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Apparently - no guarantees here but...

If it does have the extra immobiliser control on top of the stop solenoid - then instead of seeing the one wire on the nut you will see a black box with three wires on top. To bypass that extra security feature you have to chisel the box off the top carefully, the output from the box underneath goes straight to a normal solenoid underneath, you can then just run the wire as discussed before to this point.

The black box looks like plastic but it's metal coated with plastic and can be quite difficult to remove, once removed if you have destroyed the solenoid underneath you can just replace with a normal solenoid and bypass with the wire trick.

Have a read of this if it does have the digital one:

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=96303

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