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Juddering and dying


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Ok, I need some more advise on where to look for a problem.

Recently I've cleaned the carb and replaced the float gasket and all seemed well.

I did notice the wires that led to the solinoids had been melted across the cable that goes to the distributor so I wrapped them up so they didn't short across onto the block.

Since then it's been overrunning when switched off, I'm guessing the cable to the shut of solinoid needs replacing but thats the smaller of 2 problems.

My other problem is that when out driving today all went quite well for a while and it seemed to be running perfectly fine. However just as I'm on my way home and need to get back to feed my 5 month old boy it starts to splutter as if it's running out of fuel. When approaching traffic it starts to die just a bit kbut manages to keep going.

We finally get back to about 50 yards from the house after having to time traffic lights and roundabouts so I didn't have to stop and it really plays up and dies on me leaving my just enough momentum to roll into a space outside the house.

I haven't started it since but starting seems to be taking longer and longer to kick in each subsequent time.

This is on a 90 2.5l petrol with a weber carb.

If anyone has any sugggestions then please let me know as I can't have this happening if my boy is in there with me

Thanks

Steve

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Steve,

It does sound like a problem with the primary circuit, i.e. when you back off the throttle the problem gets worse, does it get easier to drive with the choke out?

I know in the past I have had problems when I have leaned out the idle mixture too much, everything was fine until I tried to get the choke in once the engine had warmed up then it would baulk on accelerating and you could sense it was unhappy.

It does sound like a carb problem but if you have stripped and cleaned the carb, then the next thing I would do is change the filter on the outrigger and then pull the electric fuel pump out and have a peer inside the fuel tank. The pump has a plastic mesh filter like a sock at the bottom, plus a look inside the tank wouldn't hurt. My 90 had a huge piece of silicon sealant inside the the tank where someone didn't have a gasket so they had used loads of clear bathroom sealant when fitting a new float the piece i fished out was about 8" long.

I know it feels like you're getting nowhere but it was 8 months after i bought my 90 til it would go faster than 50mph, all because the fuel filter needed changing (at 50mph it could no longer keep the float bowl full).

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Many thanks Hairyone.

I'll have a look in my tank tomorrow and replace the wiring as well.

When you refer to the primary circuit do you mean the wiring for it or the fuel lines?

I have to look at my lvel sensor int he tank anyway so I'll have a look at the lot.

I appreciate that my problems are minor compared to others but it absolutely frustrates me but as my series owner neighbour says I'm not alone by any stretch but it will come right.

Thanks

Steve

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Guest otchie1
Ok, I need some more advise on where to look for a problem.

Recently I've cleaned the carb and replaced the float gasket and all seemed well.

I did notice the wires that led to the solinoids had been melted across the cable that goes to the distributor so I wrapped them up so they didn't short across onto the block.

Since then it's been overrunning when switched off, I'm guessing the cable to the shut of solinoid needs replacing but thats the smaller of 2 problems.

We finally get back to about 50 yards from the house after having to time traffic lights and roundabouts so I didn't have to stop and it really plays up and dies on me leaving my just enough momentum to roll into a space outside the house.

I haven't started it since but starting seems to be taking longer and longer to kick in each subsequent time.

This is on a 90 2.5l petrol with a weber carb.

If anyone has any sugggestions then please let me know as I can't have this happening if my boy is in there with me

Thanks

Steve

I'd look very carefully at the ignition timing, replacing the spark plugs as a matter of course. Over-run is often caused by glowing spark plugs offering a source of ignition and a plug can get that hot when the timing is out. Is that beast running on points? A set of burnt out LT wires would have me swapping out points, condenser and possibly even the ignition coils themselves. Leaving that un-fixed can melt a hole in the crown of your piston.

That's assuming that you hadn't actually run out of fuel - you would not be the first person to do that :unsure:

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I'd look very carefully at the ignition timing, replacing the spark plugs as a matter of course. Over-run is often caused by glowing spark plugs offering a source of ignition and a plug can get that hot when the timing is out. Is that beast running on points? A set of burnt out LT wires would have me swapping out points, condenser and possibly even the ignition coils themselves. Leaving that un-fixed can melt a hole in the crown of your piston.

That's assuming that you hadn't actually run out of fuel - you would not be the first person to do that :unsure:

I have almost run out of fuel before but no, i hadn't done that, i'd only just put some in.

I do need to change my point, plugs and leads anyway as part of my general work.

This all happened after changing the float gasket in the carb so I reckon I should start with Hairy's suggestion and check out the primary circuit.

I think the overrunning is caused by the wiring to the overrun solinoid

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