hairyone

I'm currently considering this as an option http://www.bak-rak.com/uni-rak.htm and fabricating my own add ons, or maybe this http://www.bak-rak.com/pole-rak.htm. I need something that is flexible and could be used as a ski / bike / storage rack and I don't mind doing a bit of fabrication. This looks good value considering how flexible the system is http://www.bak-rak.com/bike-rak.htm

Thanks Ally V8, Oops ... I'm not as remote as you might think ... I moved back from the Wild West of Colorado to Wild West Sussex ... forgot to update Profile Location. Nanocom seems the way to go, just joined the http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/ where they have a useful map of people with nanocom and hawkeye devices willing to help follow owners. Think a nanocom of my own might be in the future though. Cheers

Hi all, It has been a while (5 years) but I am now back in the LR family way. Gone is the 1987 90, replaced with an almost as rusty 1999 TD5 Disco 2. As purchased it came with two keys: The first one operates in the door and ignition and also operates the central locking and disables the immobiliser.The second flashes the red light but does not operate the central locking, If I open the door with it the alarm goes off.I have read about the EKA but I do not have it (previous owner is having a rummage). I am wondering what the best way forward is ... I have opened up the keyfob and there is a sticker on the chip and I believe that someone with a nanocom could use this information and verify whether the key was recognised by the vehicle. If it is not then the nancom can be used to "pair it". Alternatively I could go to an LR dealer and ask for the same exercise to be performed. With respect to the EKA code, this can be obtained from LR if I tell them the VIN. The only wrinkle is that the BCU was replaced sometime in the past, presumably whoever did this would have transferred the programming and the EKA would still be the same as that known by LR. Cheers Aaron

Might also be worth giving these guys a call. Global Land rovers The age might be a factor though. I recall that the emission requirements were quite stringent when I looked at bringing my 1987 LR90 over. I think vehicles over 25 years old have an easier time of it. They have lots of info and prices (RORO) vary from GBP 960 (east coast) to GBP1500 (west coast). They also say "As a guide a 40' container from Southeast UK to Baltimore USA would be approx £2550.00 inclusive of USA dock fees. " Cheers Aaron

I too was quite taken with idea with MS plus EFi on my 2.5 petrol it was these pages that inspired me Otly 2.25 MS + EFI he even has a schematic for the Single point injection to 2.25 manifold adapter. Ther project seemed to die a death but nevertheless has some useful pointers.

Not cheap @ £22.50 but less than £40 here

Sounds like some form of fuel starvation either blocked jets, dirty filter or weak fuel pump. Do a search for "DMTL" there are plenty of threads discussing similar symptoms and potential solutions. I have a 2.5 petrol and I've had them all, just work through the suggestions methodically.

The power steering pump in my 2.5 petrol 90 is leaking. Offroading today and there was fluid all around the reservoir and when I took the lid off the fluid was half gone and hot and frothy. Looks like the fluid had boiled? and been forced out. To be honest the pump sounds it bit louder and the assistance is fine in one direction but there is a half turn delay before it kicks in on the opposite lock. Is the pump fubar'ed or can you dismantle / replace seals? TIA Aaron

Just back from a look see visit, and will probably settle in Fruita. Went for a drive around the Mesa and National Monument ... impressive. Interesting input on the trucks .. not a single US manufacturer, my company car is most likely going to be a big chevy flatbed king / crew cab, don't remember the model (I was rather overawed by the sheer size!) but the passenger doors opened suicide style e.g. hinged at back. Did see a few rusting series vehicles on farms though.

I did exacly the same thing only when I did it the top and two sides were missing. Funny thing was I stood there for about 5 seconds wondering why the grinder had blown up but was still working. It was only when my face was stinging and I noticed the overhead flouro lights were missing I realised what had happened. What made it worse was I must have said to myself "must move that battery behind the vice before grinding", one minor fettle later and the neighbours came running expecting "to be first on the scene".

According to these guys the shipping cost to Baltimore is $2k then I guess theres the cost of having it licensed for the US, all in all it looks like a big hassle despite the fact that early 110s and 90s are going for silly money

A the thread title says what would you get. The background is that I've accepted a job in Grand Junction Colorado on a temporary visa, this means I'll be selling my '87 2.5 petrol 90. I'm guessing there is going to be very little mud there and from what I can gather 25 year old LRs cost over $10k. I think there are few trails for "wheeling?" and as US distances go the MOAB is just down the road. The pay-n-play site I go to has a fair proportion of Suzukis which I have to say do pretty well with a bit of momentum, but what's cheap and fun in the US (apart from the petrol) So what's worth a look for about $5k, so far as I can see Ebay is practically empty in that area.

The middle one vents the float chamber to the atmosphere when the ignition is not live. The bottom is tee'ed into rocker and intake plenum.

Thanks Ralph, I've just measured the threads and there are 10 in 15mm so I guess that means I need an M10x1.5 tap.

The exhaust manifold stud on has sheared off below the surface, I would like to drill it out and retap or if necessary put in a helicoil (I have a replacement stud), does anyone know what size the thread is. All I know is that the nut requires a 15mm spanner, and the thread is quite coarse. Cheers Aaron

Need to remove the manifolds to replace a couple of broken studs. The parts defender 110 parts manual (1987-) I have only shows some gaskets for the inlet manifold. Are there exhaust manifold gaskets that go between head and exhaust manifold or is some sort of compound used, or is it really just a metal-to-metal seal? Hmm .. Just looked at the WSM and it mentions "Coat the face of the exhaust manifold with Rocol anti-seize compound Foliac J 166 (paste) and the corresponding face of the cylinder head." What would be the modern equivalent. I have now just found that some of the online sites are listing a on piece exhaust / inlet manifold gasket for the 2.25, will this fit the 2.5 ? Cheers Aaron

I have used this to good effect in the past Zinga

Same here, Rather than compete with the wire feed I just stuck an offcut in the end of the torch. Just about got a couple of sparks and briefly got the welding wire to glow (so I stopped). I was under the impression that the real danger comes from doing it too long which could overheat them.

The 12v nicad packs for my combo drill have been neglected / knackered for some time. Won't charge and only giving about 4.5V. Was going to buy replacements and came across this on the net, and found this Revive Nicad batteries by zapping with a welder. With a little trepidation I tried it out, and .... it works. Tried one pack first, now back up to 13.4 volts and now charging and holding a charge. Did the other pack today. Apparently it can also be done with a car battery or a charged up capacitor, just need to zap a way the filaments that are shorting some of the cells. Very pleased £80 saved

There's a guy on www.difflock.com "Freeski-James" who who first posted a write up of this site and he asked who was going on Apr 19th. I was free so I called the site organiser to get some details and check it was OK to turn up. I'm just off the London Road between Felbridge and the Trinity Church roundabout.

The organisers web site is here Mud Monsters and has a contact page. The web site give the impression it's all Suzukis, but it was a good mix when I went. They spent most of last bank holiday weekend devising new routes. I went to this one for the first time on Sunday and it's prettty good but quite informal. It's not widely advertised as the organiser doesn't want it to get too large. More info here East Grinstead Pay n Play. The Anoraks 4x4 club (as seen on Scrapheap Challenge) regularly attend and have lots of photos of the site here Anoraks Event Gallery E. Grinstead April 19th.

I think what Nick meant was that: if you could assume that with the face of the spring seat horizontal the diff axis is at the correct angle (with respect to the horizontal), AND if the face of the spring seat is meant to be horizontal when the angle of the diff nose (with respect to the horizontal plane) is correct, THEN to ensure the correct angle of the spring seat you just need to make sure it is parallel with the bump stop face. On the otherhand on a coiled axle the bump stop swings through an arc as it is constrained by the radius arms so good design would demand that the face is parallel with the bump stop at the extreme of articulation (fully compressed) and not when the axle is at rest. Which might mean that it is unlikely that the bump stop face is horizontal when the axle is at rest. Of course I haven't checked any of the above by looking at an axle

If I wished to replace the fuel lines in my 1987 2.5 petrol 90 is there any reason why i shouldn't replace the hard lines with flexible rubber fuel hose? Assume that the hose will be routed away from danger and hot exhausts with cable ties etc. That being the case does anyone know what the appropriate size would be 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8"? The reason I'm considering this is because I'm pretty sure I have a fuel restriction somewhere. I was on my way to Newbury on Sunday and if I sat at 60mph+ for more than a few minutes the engine started dying as if starved of fuel, the car returned to normal if you backed off. No problems at all with driving in town below 50mph. Dismantled the car (weber 32/34), even tried removing the fuel filter behind the outrigger... no joy. Lastly I tried taking the in tank electric fuel pump out (when I got home) the filter sock on the botton of the pump was pretty manky so I cleaned it with Carb cleaner but I haven't tried the car since. Can the filter sock be replaced? Alternatively is there a minimum flow rate I should be getting?

Big thanks to the MODs for enabling the RSS out feed. I for one find it quite useful since I often run outlook in offline mode and it's quote handy to read the posts whilst being off-line from the NET using the laptop. I concur with the sentiment to leave the in feed disabled.

Just been on the phone to my mate and college chum and he said he has recently written some articles for PPC. I said I that there was a good arcticle on a fuel injector test rig, he said "I wrote that". We both studied Mech.Eng. and he went on to become a bit iof an expert of fuel injectors and has worked for Delphi fuel injection. I told him about the thread here and he might be tempted de-lurk and answer some questions. I think he mentioned that TD5 injectors could be tested with bits from an SP36 injector tester (or that they can be found in scrap yards) Some pics of his handywork outside his lockup. SP36Brochure.pdf