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OT!! Anyone any good with 18 year old japanese sportsbikes?


mike4444244

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Hi

I have a 1990 Suzuki gsx600f, just passed its MOT but wouldn't start when the mechanic went to collect it, he said that a seal had gone and that it has hydrauliced on its petrol, he drained a load of fuel out of the sump and had to replace the plugs, but all was well now and he been round the block, as i was there with the trailer and the service from this place has been cr@p and very slow i just took the bike home, 2 days later it has done it again so he obviously didnt replace the seal..

I know naff all about bikes so when i take it to the garage or get the mobile mechanic out what is the likely culprit and roughly how much dosh am i looking at? he was blabbering about vacuum tanks and seals and going to jelly but TBH I'd been sat waiting in the car for 2 hours and made vanny very late so just wanted to get home!

are there any suitably qualified forumeers who live in the northwest and have a hobnob and beer shaped hole in their life? :lol:

Ta

Mike

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He's referring to the neddle valve in the float chamber. There's a rubber cone type

thing on the end of the valve and they have a tendancy to leak if you get a bit of

dirt in the fuel or the bike's been laid up a while.

You'll have to whip the carbs off. remove the float bowls and clean them up. If

you're keen, replace them and put an in line fuel filter in too.

Where abouts are you ? Liverpool/Cheshire covers a huge area.

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Hi Nige

yup that would fit, it was stood for 3 years before i got it, I'm in Aigburth most of the time when I'm at uni and Northwich at the weekends. The bike is at my unit in Northwich, whereabouts on the wirral are you? I go over your side of the water very regularly, I have placements at Clatterbridge and Arrowe Park, my wife, Cat, is a radiographer at Clatterbridge so we are moving over to the wirral in the next few months hopefully

Mike

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Alternatively, if the bike has a fuel tap on the fuel tank, it will more than likely have a vacuum feed from the carburettor inlet manifold to open a valve when the engine is running. If this valve sticks open, fuel can get past a slightly sticky carburettor needle valve and flood the engine. Worth checking this before tearing into the carbs..........

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I had a very similar problem just the other day with my quad. Took the carb off and cleaned it out, no sign of muck anywhere but it seems to be mended.

IMHO, after three years the petrol in the carbs will have evaporated and may have left some gum in the float chamber/ pivot mechanism which may cause your problem. Leaving it full of fuel for a day or two may soften and dissolve this gum and restore free movement. Chances are though that the carbs could do with a rebuild. You will need a grown-up to reset the balance after though - it is hard enough with 2 carbs on a V8, never mind 4!

Chris

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Thanks for the help guys, It was running really rough before i took it to the garage, the carbs have been off and stripped and had seals replaced, IIRC the mechanic had to wait 3 weeks for a set of seals from suzuki, it was running beautifully when he fired it up before i put it on the trailer so I would think the carbs are ok? It does have a fuel tap, and when it leaked and hyrauliced it also leaked down the fairing and onto the floor, which I guess would point to the tap? If its the tap how much of a ball ache is it going to be to change the seal, or should I get a grown up to help me?

Mike

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I have to disagree with fuel tap issues. If the float valves are in order they'll

happily shut off the fuel even if the tap is leaking. Most bikes have a "Prime"

setting on the tap which bypasses the vac system and having discussed this

thread with my fellow bike owners it appears most of us have left the prime

on and had no flooding issues.

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I have to disagree with fuel tap issues. If the float valves are in order they'll

happily shut off the fuel even if the tap is leaking. Most bikes have a "Prime"

setting on the tap which bypasses the vac system and having discussed this

thread with my fellow bike owners it appears most of us have left the prime

on and had no flooding issues.

The prime only works when the tap is in, prime is reserve but it is on without any vacuum, some tap bodies

don't hold the tap in and you need to press the tap in for the tap to be on.

Basically the seal is an o-ring, the o-ring is quite expensive from suzuki but an o-ring from a viton o-ring kit works just as well. It's really easy to replace the seal.

Carbs needles don't seal perfectly, but if the carbs are leaking excessivly you need to cure that, if you have had them stripped they should have been cleaned and be OK?

If lots of petrol has leaked out the tap is probably leaking.

Try pulling the pipes off the carbs and see how much leaks, it shouldn't.

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I know you were looking for a hob nob type cost, but I take mine to a grown up!

I use SRT in Birkenhead.

Prices are reasonable, and as he races sidecars to good effect, and has a rolling road for setting up, I guess he has a clue about what he is doing apart from being bonkers!

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I know you were looking for a hob nob type cost, but I take mine to a grown up!

I use SRT in Birkenhead.

Prices are reasonable, and as he races sidecars to good effect, and has a rolling road for setting up, I guess he has a clue about what he is doing apart from being bonkers!

Agreed, mad as a badger but Ray is a top bloke.

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Mike, i'll have some time available to you next week (yes i know, wiring, thats on my list) so can ferry your bike around (and empty my boot of your carp) infact, doing a northwich/trailer/wiring/bike sort of run might work.

Also, love the fact that you know where the hospital is but dont realise it's surrounded by Greasby (where Nige lives), you damn muppet!

Do SRT just do bikes? And do the do Enduro's? Seems like a familiar name to me. . .

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the alternative is that the diaphragm in the vacuum tap has perished, fuel then passes past the tear, down the vacuum pipe directly into the inlet tract causing the bike to hydraulic, pull the vac pipe off, bung with a 6mm,, put thank on prim and see if any fuel drips from the vac port on the tap. any bike thats a hydro suspect should have all plugs pulled and cranked over to spit out the excess BEFORE you spin it over!

floats stick a lot, punctured bowls are another fave (causing them to stick), needle valves on mileage bikes or US imports especially prone to being a pain (alcohol content in the fuel leaves nice gum residues), you can check float heights quickly with a length of clear pipe and a screwdriver, get the bike level - hook the pipe to the drain nipple on the bottom of the bowl, attach the pipe, look it round so its end is about the float level on one of the outside pots, open the drain screw and turn the fuel tap to prime......check each pot!

very easy ways of spotting whats playing up

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