Which Carling Switch Do I Need?

[ozzie1989]

Hello everyone! Been trying for a while now to get a Carling Contura Switch that'll do what I want it to.

Basically I want to be able to have the lights come on with main beam, on permanently or completely off.

The problem with Carlings Off-On-On switch is that it is progressive (ie. off-circuit1-circuit1+2)... what I really need is an off-circuit1-circuit2 type switch but I cannot find one anywhere?

If anyone can help with this, It'd be really appreciated

[Guest diesel_jim]

If you go for the contura II, you could use the V6DAD66BANC, which is on-off-on (with illuminated warning light) or V6DAD00BAZC with no light.

contura III is V6DAD66BCNC on-off-on with warning light, V6DAD00BCZC with no light.

[western]

In our Tech Archive Carling switch connections

[ozzie1989]

Thank's Western, I had already looked at the diagram, but unfortunately the off-on-on works on paper but the switch goes:

off - circuit 1 on - circuit 1 & 2 on

What I need is off - circuit 1 on - circuit 2 on

Jim could you please confirm that the switch no. you gave me does this? Or works in another way?

Thanks

[Guest diesel_jim]

Hello everyone! Been trying for a while now to get a Carling Contura Switch that'll do what I want it to.

Basically I want to be able to have the lights come on with main beam, on permanently or completely off.

The problem with Carlings Off-On-On switch is that it is progressive (ie. off-circuit1-circuit1+2)... what I really need is an off-circuit1-circuit2 type switch but I cannot find one anywhere?

If anyone can help with this, It'd be really appreciated

just re-reading what you need there, and you could wire it with the switch you've got...but if you've got the warning light, you won't be able to make it work:

(from Ralphs link)

connect the feed to your relay onto pin 2, "power input"

connect pin 3, (switch pos1) to the main beam supply lead (usually blue/red) with a diode in line to stop back-feed to the main beam lights

connect pin 6, (switch pos2) to a fused permament +12v feed (or ignition fed if you want the lights to go out when you turn the key off)

so, with the switch at pos0, everything is off

pos2, when you flick main beam on, you'll get a feed go through the switch to the spot relay.

then pos3, the 12v feed from the permanant live or ignition, will flow through the switch and feed the relay.

now, you say that position 2 is actually 1+2, well, thats why the diode is there, because if you switched to pos2 without it, you'd get a backfeed (where 1 and 2 are connected) back down to the headlights which would come on, which you don't want.

it doesn't have to be a huge diode, as it's only carrying the current draw of the relay, so a small one will do. probably got some at work.

[ozzie1989]

I also thought about doing that, but if I could I would like the LED warning light to work (which is internally wired).

Going back to the original switch though where would I get a diode from and what type (I did look into it - but read that they can be unreliable) as I looked on maplin and got about 2000 different ones

Would this be a viable solution or could it cause problems - if the diode failed all it would do is blow the very small fuse I'll use in the circuit for the switch wiring anyway so it would be safe?

Maybe Jim's switch will not even need the diode - lets hope

[Guest diesel_jim]

Maybe Jim's switch will not even need the diode - lets hope

I got the info from a Carling .pdf info sheet, but after having a nice alcoholic beverage, my brain clicked into gear and i remembered that our very own Kev Baldwin and his mudstuff company sell all manner of carling switches:

Yer ther are scroll down to the one "on-off-on" for £7, you have one circuit or t'other.

no diodes, no hassle and the warning light should work correctly!

and Kev is a top chap to buy stuff from.

[ozzie1989]

Indeed, he and his workshop people are great!

One problem though, that switch would work fine, but as he's informed me the LED will not.

The layout gives you 1 input and 2 separately switched outputs. Now because the LED is internally wired, it will come on when either of the 2 outputs are on.

I can reverse this and make the 2 outputs inputs for the permanent and main beam, and the 1 input an output to my relay... HOWEVER...

Because I am now applying 12v permanently to one of the inputs (which was an output) the LED bar will illuminate all the time

You see my predicament?

[Guest diesel_jim]

Hmmm... yeah, i see. even with them wired "backwards" there might still be a problem with the light working properly.

the only suggestion, is see if the you can dismantle the switch, remove the feed for the light and re-connect it to the "input" (which is now the feed to the relay) then to earth so it illuminates when the spotlight relay is energised.

[ozzie1989]

I think it would work - although there is a possibility if I didn't recify the LED power could flow back through either circuit as the LED is joined to both outputs (which are now my inputs).

I have an ON-OFF here so I'm thinking to try and dismantle that before I order the right one up...

**UPDATE**: I have just dismantled my switch - it will be possible to re-wire the LED though not as simple as I'd hoped. Opening up the switch is easy enough, but the led illumination is connected to a spring which in turn touches a contact linked to the terminal that gives the output of the switch. This is obviously built into the switch, but it would be easy to solder a piece of wire onto the terminal which would be the new output, and run a piece of wire up to the led as well as removing the spring so it couldn't touch the old contact.

I will order a switch Tuesday and update